Good morning all.

Couple of thoughts in my little head this morning:

1. When I bought my '07 SC last year, I got a one year 3rd party warranty thrown in on the cheap. The car had been used very sparingly over the previous 5 years, so I figured this would be a good hedge against any gremlins. Well, in the year we've owned Scarlett, I've put over 10,000 miles on her. City, highway, country back roads, you name it. Virtually flawless. I'm pretty sure I know what the answer will be, but does it make any sense to renew the warranty? It's about $1,000.
2. I've had the "luxury" of driving up I-95 from Williamsburg to Northern VA on a number of occasions recently and one thing I've notice after prolonged traffic to-ing and fro-ing the brakes will get just a bit grabby. Application of the brakes will provide a slight variance in the amount of braking engaged, almost a pulsation but very light. Any ideas what might be causing this? The disks are not warped, I know what that feels like.
3. Do all automated car washed have trouble getting this car clean? I know, I know, they are hard on your paint, but I've put her through a couple of automated carwashes lately and it seems that the area ahead of the rear spoiler doesn't get clean. Just the shape of the car and a sign that I should get my lazy butt out and wash it by hand?

thanks!

 

I have never had great results with either automated car washers or pressure washers you spray yourself. Nothing comes close to the clean you get from a terrycloth rag and your own hand. So I hand wash my car now on Saturday mornings, which I find relaxing. It also gives me time to examine the tires well for leaks and wear.

 

My former '02 did fine in car washes on the trunk but would commonly not get cleaned well between the spoiler and the rear bumper.

 

Chris

I would say put the money in the bank. These cars are pretty much bulletproof if you take care of them. The only thing I have done to my 2006 since buying it in Dec of 2018 and eight thousand miles is rear shocks.

Dennis

 

Disc brake rotors usually don't "warp" (despite what some will tell you!) unless they have worn or have been turned below their minimum thickness. What usually causes the pulsations is brake pad material sticking to the brake rotor. If you have put some heat into your brakes, like stopping suddenly from highway speeds, and then you stand still with your foot on the brake, some pad material can be transferred to the rotor in that area, and then later you feel the pulsations.
Now, there a lot of variables here like, type of pads and rotors, how long you kept pressure on the brakes while hot, etc. Personally, if I performed a sudden stop and have to wait at a street light, if possible, I put the car in neutral and take the pressure off the brakes until it's time to move again. Ideally, you would have had the opportunity to keep moving to allow the brakes to cool, but that's not always possible.

You might be ready for a new set of rotors and pads or maybe just pads if your rotors are above minimum spec and are not too grooved. Either way, cheap insurance for being able to stop safely and to keep enjoying this incredible automobile!

 

Save the money. In most cases 3rd party warranties from a smaller dealer are a rip-off anyway. They'll use any and all tactics to keep from paying any significant claims.

 

For #2, I did an experiment this afternoon. I flipped the switch on the console to the middle. No more brake surge. What I was feeling, once I paid attention to it, was the case downshifting when in power mode.

Never had a car that did that with an automatic transmission before, or did it in a way that it was noticable.

I've pretty much decided not to renew the warranty.

Thanks

 

1. Don’t waste your money. I did. Bough 4 year warranty out of fear the top will fail and regret ever since. Not thing fails, not even one problem in 5 years.

2. Rotor may need resurfaced .

3. I do automated car wash and go home spend about an hour to wax her.

 

Chris

Rotors are cheap just replace.

Dennis