Mazor1

Question for those of you who have installed the Naviks box and back-up camera to the NAV screen, how long would you say the install should take someone who hasn't done this kind of aftermarket install before, including removing and re-installing the car pieces in the trunk that first must be removed?

Also, how and where exactly did you route the wires from the very back of the car up to the connection point behind the front dash? Novice, gonna take my time doing this, but hey, my unit and camera has been sitting in their boxes for two years now, so I think its time to give it a shot. Nervous in the ATL

leexed

Should be able to install in a couple of hours. No need to run wires to front dash, all hook up is done under trunk mat. Once you remove trunk mat, all access is there. There is a rubber plug in right rear of car behind rear panel trim that makes it easy to bring in rear camera circuit. Just follow manufacturers directions and you should be ok. If not, we are here.

VVTiBob

Dear Nervous in ATL:
If you search the forum you’ll find lots of help on this topic. While I did not use the Naviks box, I did a complete install. This thread: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc4...-controls.html has a PDF linked at the bottom of the first comment that was TOO large to post here on CL. There are also other threads with detailed info on how to take the trunk apart. Hint: A proper set of pry tools is a must to avoid breaking the plastic retaining clips.
Overall, as a novice, I would allocate five-six hours, but once your confidence kicks in, 3.5 to 4. Reading the PDF and getting the instructions for getting the trunk as well as the rear seat interior apart will save you an hour easy.

This thread may be more applicable for just the Naviks. https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc4...other-day.html

and here is the PDF on getting the trunk apart: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/att...oval-steps.pdf OBVIOUSLY you don’t do ALL of the steps.

GmanSC

If you recently purchased the Naviks, be aware that the wiring might be slightly different from the posts or threads. The reason being that many of us had a previous version.
The general installation still applies, just the wiring and/or wire color will be different.
Good luck.

Mazor1

Thank you guys for all your advice and encouragement. The Naviks I have is the Silver box, purchased it about 2 years ago. I'm gonna start by going to Harbor Freight to purchase a clip removal tool, then a few of those T-connectors I believe that's what they are called so I don't have to do any splicing, and then who knows, once I've got the trunk parts removed, I might just venture out on a limb and attach the back-up camera, and then probably over a few days time I just might get this thing done by myself.

One other quick question, should I disconnect the negative battery cable and have it disconnected before I am doing any of the work required to hook up the Naviks unit?

VVTiBob

Always safer to disconnect battery when working on anything electrical in the car.

riknchar

I had my Naviks system installed by my local Best Buy Geek Squad. I've had really good luck with the installer at this particular location, and I trust him with my Lexus. I think he only charged around $50-100? He had it done very quickly, and it is a terrific add to the SC430. I think the total cost for the hardware and install was around $400, well worth it!

Mazor1

That is a great suggestion, in fact as I was coming home I thought the same thing and will give my local Best Buy a call. I found another guy via Craigslist and he quoted me $150. which I think is too much for this specific install, considering the plug n play convenience that comes with the parts I bought.

Mazor1

Well, my local Best Buys Audio Installer acted like they didn't want to touch doing the install using equipment not purchased at their store, and the lowest reliable quote that I received is at $150. So, hopefully with the assistance of those of you on this great Forum I am thinking that I am gonna attempt to do this job myself.

So, one other question before I can get started. I have seen suggestions to use a special tool in order to remove the clips that hold the trunk liner's in place. Well, I've actually seen two different tools shown, one of which looks like two short fingers that is designed to "slide" under the cap of the clips and then I guess gently pry the clips up and out. Another picture that I saw show a specialized kind of pliers with two angled ends that are intended to be pressed together in the slots on top of the clips, presumably to "release" or unlock the clips so that they can then be easily pulled out.

I'm going to purchase one or both of these tools before starting my work, so I would appreciate it very much if someone could tell me exactly which of these tools is the one needed to remove all of the trunk liner clips without breaking them. Thank you.

leexed

Yes, you can do it. I found that the 2 finger retainer remover works best for me. Very good idea to disconnect negative battery cable.One word of caution, be sure of the vehicle wire that you're taping into. double check the wire color.You don't want to create problems. Take your time and you will be happy with the results.

GmanSC

I too also had a silver box. It took me about 4 hours for the installation but if I had to it again, it probably take about an hour and half. The installation is quite simple and straight forward and you don't have to use T-junctions or splice any wire.
Basically how I did mine:
1. Remove the trunk dressing.
2. Install the back up camera to the license plate. Feed the power wires and camera video wire thru hole in the back pane to the trunk area. You don't have to drill the hole, there is one on the right side.
3. Run a wire from the up light (remove the light bulb and insert wire to socket then replace the light bulb) to the camera positive, the camera negative wire to the chassis (ground). Also use this wire connect to trigger wire (blue wire) on the Naviks.
4. Unplug the 10 pin connector from the back of the NAV and plug in the Naviks connector to the NAV, then plug the NAV connector to the other connector of the Naviks.
5. Power the Naviks by spice to pin 18 (gray wire) of the DVD connector. Test the camera in reverse.
6. Dress wires, double-sided tape the Naviks to the floor (not on top of the NAV, you won't be able to install the trunk dressing.)
7. Install the trunk dressing.

Related links:

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc4...s-install.html

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc4...ictures-2.html (read post #27, there is PDF files with pics)

Mazor1

Hey there GManSC. Two questions for you.... In your very first line you say that I do not need to use any T-junctions or splice any wires, and then under item #5 that I should power the Naviks by "spice" to pin #18. Wondering if you do mean that you ended up splicing a wire here, or if you don't mind a little more details would be appreciated. BTW - I had long ago copied your instructions, printed out two copies and have them currently in my trunk for my chosen installer (if I would have found one reasonably priced) to use as a guide. So, thank you for this.

My second question, You and others have said that you remove the light bulb from the rear (I'll assume the light that comes on when the car is put in reverse), and then you insert the wire (to the camera positive) into the socket and then re-insert the bulb. That sounds very simple to me, but I just wanted to make sure, just by securing the wire with the bulb being re-inserted that is a solid enough electrical connector that won't later on come loose some how?

Thanks for all your help.

GmanSC

Mazor,

OK, let me answer your questions, no. 2 first.

2. For the back up trigger, I used this method since it's easiest way to get the trigger voltage. I did this since 2016, so far it's still working fine. If you're not comfortable with this method, you can do like BGW did his, pick up the trigger line from the junction box. Link below (post #14)

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc4...s-install.html

1. For the Naviks power. No, you don't have to splice the #18 wire. In fact, the wire bundle is short and very tight, I don't think you have enough slack to cut and solder wire or use T-junction. Here what I did. Remove the connector, insert the tripped wire from your Naviks, to pin 18, then replace the connector. It's same method as the socket back up light.

There is no SWITCHED POWER from the junction box, so DO NOT use any +12V from the junction box or fuse box to power your Naviks, It will drain your battery (that was what I did first, my battery went dead in two days).

Gook luck.

Mazor1

Thanks again for your advice. OK, maybe its just not "clicking" with my brain, so if you don't mind me asking you for a little bit more explanation.

#1) You are absolutely correct that the wiring to the 18 pin connector is extremely tight and I have been struggling with how to splice the grey wire at pin #18 to attach my wire(s). What do you mean, exactly, when you say that you "inserted the wire from the Naviks to pin 18? I'm sorry, I don't understand what you are suggesting I do here. Stick the Naviks wire into which end of the connector? More please

#2) The trunk of my car is locked now since I have disconnected the battery and its getting dark outside, so my Navik instructions are not available to me, but I believe that I have gotten to the point that I am going to hook up wires from either the Navik and/or the Backup Camera (power and ground) to one of the appropriate pins on the 18 pin connectors. So, whatever you are saying that I can do to accomplish this without having to splice those very small wires in such a very tight space would be very appreciated.

#3) I've disconnected the negative terminal of my battery, but won't be doing anymore work tonight. Should I go ahead and hook the terminal back up or is it alright to leave the battery in the car disconnected for a day or two without doing any harm to the other electronics and cpu of the car?

Thanks so much for your assistance. Mark M

GmanSC

Hì Mark,
Here is what you do: strip the wire from Naviks, approx 1/4 inch long. Unplug the connector, Insert the stripped end into the pin18 female side of the connector. Now, plug the connector back. That was how I did mine. I don’t know how others did theirs. Yes, you can leave your battery disconnected, nothing will happen.