Naviks: Sometimes you just have to close the trunk and start over another day...
#1
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
Naviks: Sometimes you just have to close the trunk and start over another day...
Today seemed like a good day to install my backup camera and Naviks. Everything came apart easy (well, I did break one clip/pushpin towards the end). It did get easier and quicker climbing in and out of the trunk as the day went on
I started her up and I got the dreaded black/dark grey Nav screen when I shifted to reverse. The Naviks unit has both red and green lights on so I assumed it was the trigger connection. While I was poking around I decided to flip the RGB switch to the other RGB option. That gave me a dark grey with White Lines thru it instead. Not sure if that means anything but that was something I noticed.
I already had T-Taps so I was using them today. I'm not sure if they are the same as the P-Taps some have used but the Naviks and camera wires get a crimped on Male blade terminal and the existing Nav harness gets the other part that pierces the insulation. You just plug the 2 together.
Because of the blank screen in reverse, I thought that that I'd check the voltage on my pin 14 connection but I discovered that the batteries in my meter corroded so I'm flying a little blind until I pick another one.
In the meantime I decided to replace both halves of my pin 14 T-Tap and tested it again. Now the Nav screen doesn't change at all when I shift into reverse. The red and green lights are still on so either my original assumption was wrong on it being the trigger connection or another issue popped up or the 1st one got worse.
This seemed like a good time to stop for the day (besides my stomach and nose are both telling me it's dinner time!)
Pin 18 (12VDC) grey wire got the Naviks Red wire
Pin 17 (GND) white/black wire got the Naviks & Camera Black wire
Pin 14 (Reverse trigger) yellow/red wire got the Naviks Brown wire (it's not Blue anymore) and the Camera's Red wire
Has this happened to anyone and what was the solution? Was it the trigger connection? My biggest fear is breaking a wire in the original Nav harness.
Bob
I started her up and I got the dreaded black/dark grey Nav screen when I shifted to reverse. The Naviks unit has both red and green lights on so I assumed it was the trigger connection. While I was poking around I decided to flip the RGB switch to the other RGB option. That gave me a dark grey with White Lines thru it instead. Not sure if that means anything but that was something I noticed.
I already had T-Taps so I was using them today. I'm not sure if they are the same as the P-Taps some have used but the Naviks and camera wires get a crimped on Male blade terminal and the existing Nav harness gets the other part that pierces the insulation. You just plug the 2 together.
Because of the blank screen in reverse, I thought that that I'd check the voltage on my pin 14 connection but I discovered that the batteries in my meter corroded so I'm flying a little blind until I pick another one.
In the meantime I decided to replace both halves of my pin 14 T-Tap and tested it again. Now the Nav screen doesn't change at all when I shift into reverse. The red and green lights are still on so either my original assumption was wrong on it being the trigger connection or another issue popped up or the 1st one got worse.
This seemed like a good time to stop for the day (besides my stomach and nose are both telling me it's dinner time!)
Pin 18 (12VDC) grey wire got the Naviks Red wire
Pin 17 (GND) white/black wire got the Naviks & Camera Black wire
Pin 14 (Reverse trigger) yellow/red wire got the Naviks Brown wire (it's not Blue anymore) and the Camera's Red wire
Has this happened to anyone and what was the solution? Was it the trigger connection? My biggest fear is breaking a wire in the original Nav harness.
Bob
Last edited by Oldsig; 03-10-19 at 04:32 PM. Reason: Added what each pin is
#2
Pole Position
What is pin 17? Ground? You can connect to the chassis.
Power your Navik and cam with pin 18. Forget pin 14. Use the back up light for triggering.
Power your Navik and cam with pin 18. Forget pin 14. Use the back up light for triggering.
#3
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
Is there an easy way to get to the backup light and route a wire to it? Being below the bumper, in my head, it sounds difficult or can I tap into a backup light wire in it's harness near the bumper instead of putting it in the socket?
Bob
#4
Pole Position
Sorry, I left out what each pin was for. I update my post to fix that. You're right, pin 17 is ground.
Is there an easy way to get to the backup light and route a wire to it? Being below the bumper, in my head, it sounds difficult or can I tap into a backup light wire in it's harness near the bumper instead of putting it in the socket?
Bob
Is there an easy way to get to the backup light and route a wire to it? Being below the bumper, in my head, it sounds difficult or can I tap into a backup light wire in it's harness near the bumper instead of putting it in the socket?
Bob
#5
Lexus Test Driver
Sorry, I left out what each pin was for. I update my post to fix that. You're right, pin 17 is ground.
Is there an easy way to get to the backup light and route a wire to it? Being below the bumper, in my head, it sounds difficult or can I tap into a backup light wire in it's harness near the bumper instead of putting it in the socket?
Bob
Is there an easy way to get to the backup light and route a wire to it? Being below the bumper, in my head, it sounds difficult or can I tap into a backup light wire in it's harness near the bumper instead of putting it in the socket?
Bob
the backup camera red wire joined the existing dark red/black stripe wire.
Last edited by Bgw70; 03-14-19 at 03:01 AM.
#6
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
Thanks folks for your tips and what you did! I thought that I was well prepared and I had everything I'd need for this job. I have to admit I thought it would work the first time.
I have a small spool of 22 awg wire (plus 6mm/22 awg ring lugs and a different style of taps as a "just in case I need them") coming from Amazon tomorrow.
By tomorrow night I'll finally have a working backup camera!
Thanks again for sharing what you two did!
Bob
I have a small spool of 22 awg wire (plus 6mm/22 awg ring lugs and a different style of taps as a "just in case I need them") coming from Amazon tomorrow.
By tomorrow night I'll finally have a working backup camera!
Thanks again for sharing what you two did!
Bob
#7
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
Everything arrived today that I thought that I'd need to finish. I did some rewiring. I moved my ground connection to an existing mounting screw to use chassis ground. I moved the camera red wire and the Naviks trigger wire to the connector in the fuse block on the far left of the Nav unit (thanks for the pictures in this posting and idea).
Those were all better and safer ways to make those connections and I am happy I made them. I wish I originally did those vs following the Naviks provided instructions.
I still got a blank screen when I shifted into reverse though so I called Naviks again.
I previous talked to them when the harness I received had a brown wire instead of the Blue the instructions mentioned. I also had asked for new directions and if anything else changed that I needed to know about. They had no updated instructions and didn't mention anything else that changed or common problems.
Silly me, I had connected the Yellow camera RCA connector to the Naviks Yellow RCA connector. Tonight they told me that changed too and now you connector the camera RCA to the Naviks Green connector. I had never seen the older version's harness so I cannot confirm that was another thing they changed.
That worked and I now have a working backup camera! Next thing to look into...why is there a blue tint to everything? Naviks only comment was to use RGBS. I had already tried both settings with the same results. Well, tomorrow is another day!
Again, thanks for the great suggestions and letting me bounce what I was doing off of you two!
Bob
Newest Naviks "Black" box RCA connection, Yellow camera to Green Naviks
Those were all better and safer ways to make those connections and I am happy I made them. I wish I originally did those vs following the Naviks provided instructions.
I still got a blank screen when I shifted into reverse though so I called Naviks again.
I previous talked to them when the harness I received had a brown wire instead of the Blue the instructions mentioned. I also had asked for new directions and if anything else changed that I needed to know about. They had no updated instructions and didn't mention anything else that changed or common problems.
Silly me, I had connected the Yellow camera RCA connector to the Naviks Yellow RCA connector. Tonight they told me that changed too and now you connector the camera RCA to the Naviks Green connector. I had never seen the older version's harness so I cannot confirm that was another thing they changed.
That worked and I now have a working backup camera! Next thing to look into...why is there a blue tint to everything? Naviks only comment was to use RGBS. I had already tried both settings with the same results. Well, tomorrow is another day!
Again, thanks for the great suggestions and letting me bounce what I was doing off of you two!
Bob
Newest Naviks "Black" box RCA connection, Yellow camera to Green Naviks
Last edited by Oldsig; 03-14-19 at 03:56 AM. Reason: Typo
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