Roof won´t open
#1
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Roof won´t open
Hi
My 2003 SC430 roof wont open after winter storage. There is no light at all when pressing the button and no sound. .
I have checked below
My 2003 SC430 roof wont open after winter storage. There is no light at all when pressing the button and no sound. .
I have checked below
- Glove compartment button ok
- Cover in the trunk ok
- Fuses in trunk ok
- Fuses on driver side ok
- Two fuse boxes in engine compartment ok
- Disconnected/connected battery - nothing
- All other electrics work like opening the trunk, lights, navigation, windows, mirrors, locks etc
#2
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First I’m not being a smart ***, just don’t know what YOU mean by “checks OK”. What I mean is did you test the switch for position AND continuity? More precise answers narrows the list of suspect areas since there are many.
Well it could be anything from a defective switch in the control panel to a chewed wire to a low voltage battery or several other reasons.
You mentioned being stored for the winter, are there rodents around? Have you inspected for wire damage in the engine compartment?
You did not say anything about starting the car after it’s long storage, how was the battery maintained?
You mentioned fuses and a number of locations. What about the one in the passenger side panel? It was not mentioned in your bullet point list. More specifically the MPX-BI fuse?
What about modular wiring harness connectors all over the car?
All seated properly? All checked for corrision issues. We just had one problem that went on for many weeks and lots of dollars and it turned out to be a J/B corrosion issue at a modular connector on the passenger side.
No light when the roof open/close switch is pressed can indicate no power to the air conditioning control assembly, what about its other functions, i.e. open close nav door, flashers, rear window defrost etc etc??? Was the unit disconnected for any reason without being properly reconnected?
That’s off the top of my head.
Well it could be anything from a defective switch in the control panel to a chewed wire to a low voltage battery or several other reasons.
You mentioned being stored for the winter, are there rodents around? Have you inspected for wire damage in the engine compartment?
You did not say anything about starting the car after it’s long storage, how was the battery maintained?
You mentioned fuses and a number of locations. What about the one in the passenger side panel? It was not mentioned in your bullet point list. More specifically the MPX-BI fuse?
What about modular wiring harness connectors all over the car?
All seated properly? All checked for corrision issues. We just had one problem that went on for many weeks and lots of dollars and it turned out to be a J/B corrosion issue at a modular connector on the passenger side.
No light when the roof open/close switch is pressed can indicate no power to the air conditioning control assembly, what about its other functions, i.e. open close nav door, flashers, rear window defrost etc etc??? Was the unit disconnected for any reason without being properly reconnected?
That’s off the top of my head.
Last edited by VVTiBob; 05-20-18 at 05:47 PM.
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Jabberwock (05-22-18)
#3
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Thinking about this further....but it’s a long shot.
You said the trunk opened correctly, was that from both the cabin switch AND the keyfob? If not, it’s points to the trunk switch, or wiring. If so, you may want to open and close it several times just in case the trunk switch for the retractable top has an intermittent problem due to storage.
I know it’s a pain in the a$$, but these components need to move from time to time. Sitting idle for long periods isn’t good for anything mechanical. Leads to parts seizing up and corrosion.
You said the trunk opened correctly, was that from both the cabin switch AND the keyfob? If not, it’s points to the trunk switch, or wiring. If so, you may want to open and close it several times just in case the trunk switch for the retractable top has an intermittent problem due to storage.
I know it’s a pain in the a$$, but these components need to move from time to time. Sitting idle for long periods isn’t good for anything mechanical. Leads to parts seizing up and corrosion.
Last edited by VVTiBob; 05-20-18 at 05:52 PM.
#4
Moderator
Beside the power to the panel problem, there are three components in need of close inspection and testing. They are:
- the lugguge door main opener switch - located in the glove box
- the luggage courtesy switch - at the trunk latch
- the Tonneau switch - located in the trunk
all three should be closely inspected and continuity tested. But I will tell you I tested my main opener switch (located in the glove box). With the switch in the OFF position (preventing the trunk lid from opening) the switch to open the top blinks red when pressed. This points to a power, defective switch, or worse, an air conditioning control sub-assembly, wiring or roof ECU problem.
Without a definitive DTC from the diagnostic software it’s going to be difficult to track down. And, we have had one case recently where we are not getting any DTCs.
Questions: How are you with a Volt/Ohm meter? How much of DIY person are you? There are some basic tests....but you’ll need to get into the AC sub-assembly console and KNOW how to use a V/O meter.
Without a definitive DTC from the diagnostic software it’s going to be difficult to track down. And, we have had one case recently where we are not getting any DTCs.
Questions: How are you with a Volt/Ohm meter? How much of DIY person are you? There are some basic tests....but you’ll need to get into the AC sub-assembly console and KNOW how to use a V/O meter.
Last edited by VVTiBob; 05-20-18 at 10:24 AM.
#5
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Beside the power to the panel problem, there are three components in need of close inspection and testing. They are:
- the lugguge door main opener switch - located in the glove box
- the luggage courtesy switch - at the trunk latch
- the Tonneau switch - located in the trunk
all three should be closely inspected and continuity tested. But I will tell you I tested my main opener switch (located in the glove box). With the switch in the OFF position (preventing the trunk lid from opening) the switch to open the top blinks red when pressed. This points to a power, defective switch, or worse, an air conditioning control sub-assembly, wiring or roof ECU problem.
Without a definitive DTC from the diagnostic software it’s going to be difficult to track down. And, we have had one case recently where we are not getting any DTCs.
Questions: How are you with a Volt/Ohm meter? How much of DIY person are you? There are some basic tests....but you’ll need to get into the AC sub-assembly console and KNOW how to use a V/O meter.
Without a definitive DTC from the diagnostic software it’s going to be difficult to track down. And, we have had one case recently where we are not getting any DTCs.
Questions: How are you with a Volt/Ohm meter? How much of DIY person are you? There are some basic tests....but you’ll need to get into the AC sub-assembly console and KNOW how to use a V/O meter.
You have some points i have to check. I consider my self a DIY when inte comes to mechanical thinks. Even though i have a v/o meter i am not a DIY on electrics. I will check the easy stuff and if no progress i have to go to the dealer. May come back with more questions after testing.
Thanks again
#6
Pole Position
Have you noticed anything else quirky about your car?
In order for you to know what is going on with your top, you need Toyota's diagnostic software. It is called techstream. You can click on this search link and read up on it: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sea...rchid=19205078
Once you get a code from techstream or your dealer, let us know and we can help you go from there.
You may want to take a more C'est la vie attitude and try it every time you start your car. Sometimes non function tops start again. Though it won't last forever, you can tell the integrity of the entire system hasn't been compromised if it works.
In order for you to know what is going on with your top, you need Toyota's diagnostic software. It is called techstream. You can click on this search link and read up on it: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sea...rchid=19205078
Once you get a code from techstream or your dealer, let us know and we can help you go from there.
You may want to take a more C'est la vie attitude and try it every time you start your car. Sometimes non function tops start again. Though it won't last forever, you can tell the integrity of the entire system hasn't been compromised if it works.
#7
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#8
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Connected an obd2 reader and got an error code, P1566. "Cruise Control Main Switch Circuit Malfunction"
Any idea on where to check or directly to dealer?
thanks for forcing me to check fault codes 😊
Any idea on where to check or directly to dealer?
thanks for forcing me to check fault codes 😊
#9
Moderator
This is odd, the “P” code stands for power train. Problems with the roof start with the letter “B” and begin in the 2500 range. They are not stored so are only read when the roof activates. My Service manual is missing pages for the P1566 DTC which are some of the last pages of Vol. 1. Maybe others can offer help.
#10
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but I can offer this:
Faulty Cruise Control Main Switch Cruise Control Main Switch
Harness is open or shorted
Cruise Control Main Switch circuit poor electrical connection
Noting the number of poor connection discussion we have had lately, I would inspect all modular connections.
#11
Lexus Test Driver
can you reset the code and if so, does it return?
#12
Lexus Test Driver
Cruise control info...this is from my 2003 service manual
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but I can offer this:
Faulty Cruise Control Main Switch Cruise Control Main Switch
Harness is open or shorted
Cruise Control Main Switch circuit poor electrical connection
Noting the number of poor connection discussion we have had lately, I would inspect all modular connections.
Are there any easy to check modular connection?
I am not experienced enough to dig too deep 😊