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I am doing a bit of DIY upgrading, and substituting the standard screen in my SC430 with a higher resolution one with its own drive board with HDMI input. This will allow me to have iPhone mirroring with lightning cable as well as connect a backup camera all at a considerably low cost ($50 for screen and drive board, $25 for lightning adapter and hdmi cable).
But of course low cost means figuring out a few things for my self.
The new drive board can take a 12V input but I can't find the information about which of the many pins at the back of the unit gives me a +12V and a - . The picture below shows the connections on the back of the the unit that holds the screen in place.
If any one has info on the + and - or how to test for them safely with a multimeter or to a thread that already has this info please tell me.
PS. behind the screen there are two boards one I presume manages a few things including the volume buttons on the steering wheel (as they stoped working as soon as I removed it) and second is probably a drive board for the screen. If this is true I might have to leave the first one in to keep the volume functionality and just replace the old screen and old board with a new one but that means using the connection from the board...
in your photo, the smallest connector is the M5 six pin one.
And a white wire with black stripe is nearly always a negative or ground wire in our cars.
In the image below, the column labeled (A) is the PIN number.
in your photo, the smallest connector is the M5 six pin one.
And a white wire with black stripe is nearly always a negative or ground wire in our cars.
In the image below, the column labeled (A) is the PIN number.
Amazing! Thank you so much this will help me a lot.
Thanks for the link, just checked that thread and seems that Retroplay’s unit is an older model then mine so the connectors and boards are different.
A quick video of my Units original assembly:
in your photo, the smallest connector is the M5 six pin one.
And a white wire with black stripe is nearly always a negative or ground wire in our cars.
In the image below, the column labeled (A) is the PIN number.
Ok so I have checked the 6-pin connector and it is not the one that is referred to in the manual. It does not have 12V input.
But knowing the negative is black and that the car has these 4 modes drew my attention to the 26-pin connector that has 6 big connections with 5 out of 6 active connections and one of them being black, looked a lot like the connections in the manual and after checking it was:
...just checked that thread and seems that Retroplay’s unit is an older model then mine so the connectors and boards are different.
While I am not 100%, Retroplay’s car in an 03 and should be the same as your 04 and my 02. My posted info is from an 02.
Thats what I thought would be the case too... Technically my car was first registered in 2005 but it has an the older style head lights and the other signs of 1st iteration of sc430. Will have to have a look fr the manufacturing date on the side of the door.
But here are the differences between Retroplay’s and my unit: (picture of Retroplay’s then a picture of mine) Back of Retroplay’s screen
Back on my original screen
Retroplay’s monitor board
my monitor original board
Back of Retroplay’s main board
Back of my original main board
Front of Retroplay’s main board
Front of my original main board
As you can see there are a lot of differences here and the main being the main connectors, not only they are different but in Retroplay’s case they go into main board which then connect to screen board that connects to the screen, while in my case the main connectors connect to the screen board with connect both to the screen and main board directly.
Alex2016g, this looks like an interesting project. I will be following your experiment, for sure
Finally got an update, Iv managed to connect everything and the screen is fully operational!
I have screen miroing with the iPhone and a view from back up camera.
But unfortunately there still are some problems:
1. No stearing wheal sound control - because the new screen requirs a new board, there wasn't enough space to fit both the 2 old boards and the new
2. The screen is stuck in the open position as the control board that operates it is one of the two mentioned above
3. The rear camera does not turn on automaticaly. Means I have to ether change channel input manually or to leave it on the AV1 full time (which is what I have done atm). There is a trigger wire but I am not tested it and not sure how to integrated yet.
4. The screen is a little dark, and is very hard to see in day light, ok for shade and perfect for night (I will find the specs and post them later). There are a few filters and touch screen film on the front which will be removed to see if this will improve the situation.
5. Screen is currently connected to ACC 12V power source which means it is ON all the time, thankfully the screen has a auto turn OFF mode ("sleep" but not called sleep in the screen menu) which works well as it automatically turns on when input is detected. I don't think this is an issue but might be if I fix problem number 2.
Number 2 and number 5 are really not a big deal to me and will be low on my agenda, the rest I will try to sort out asap.
If anyone has any suggestion pease don't be shy!
Well, there’s no doubt in my mind, when it comes to the electronics, and the SC430, you, Retroplay and Habious are in a class all by yourselves. I wouldn’t even know where to begin other than access and removing the old systems from their mounts. Good luck as you proceed.
Well, there’s no doubt in my mind, when it comes to the electronics, and the SC430, you, Retroplay and Habious are in a class all by yourselves. I wouldn’t even know where to begin other than access and removing the old systems from their mounts. Good luck as you proceed.
Finally got an update, Iv managed to connect everything and the screen is fully operational!
I have screen miroing with the iPhone and a view from back up camera.
But unfortunately there still are some problems:
1. No stearing wheal sound control - because the new screen requirs a new board, there wasn't enough space to fit both the 2 old boards and the new
2. The screen is stuck in the open position as the control board that operates it is one of the two mentioned above
3. The rear camera does not turn on automaticaly. Means I have to ether change channel input manually or to leave it on the AV1 full time (which is what I have done atm). There is a trigger wire but I am not tested it and not sure how to integrated yet.
4. The screen is a little dark, and is very hard to see in day light, ok for shade and perfect for night (I will find the specs and post them later). There are a few filters and touch screen film on the front which will be removed to see if this will improve the situation.
5. Screen is currently connected to ACC 12V power source which means it is ON all the time, thankfully the screen has a auto turn OFF mode ("sleep" but not called sleep in the screen menu) which works well as it automatically turns on when input is detected. I don't think this is an issue but might be if I fix problem number 2.
Number 2 and number 5 are really not a big deal to me and will be low on my agenda, the rest I will try to sort out asap.
If anyone has any suggestion pease don't be shy!
Quick update as I have finally had some time to work on the SC again and have sorted out all of the previous problems:
First of all I have removed the metal bracket that held the old screen completely and fitted the screen to the black plastic front that you see normally from the outside which gave me enough room to fit the screens control board right behind it. This gave back the space for the original boards to be fitted back. This sorted out problem 1 and 2.
1. No steering wheal sound control - because the new screen requires a new board, there wasn't enough space to fit both the 2 old boards and the new.
2. The screen is stuck in the open position as the control board that operates it is one of the two mentioned above.
3. The rear camera does not turn on automatically. Means I have to ether change channel input manually or to leave it on the AV1 full time (which is what I have done atm). There is a trigger wire but I am not tested it and not sure how to integrated yet. Apparently this was due to the fact that I had a standard AV cable running. i have replaces it with a specialised AV+triger cable that runs the 12V signal from rear lights back to the control board.
4. The screen is a little dark, and is very hard to see in day light, ok for shade and perfect for night (I will find the specs and post them later). There are a few filters and touch screen film on the front which will be removed to see if this will improve the situation. I removed all the filters (I think there were 4 or 5) and the antiglare protector which has made my screen much brighter and now I can use it during the day too. Ideally an even brighter screen would be better.
5. Screen is currently connected to ACC 12V power source which means it is ON all the time, thankfully the screen has a auto turn OFF mode ("sleep" but not called sleep in the screen menu) which works well as it automatically turns on when input is detected. I don't think this is an issue but might be if I fix problem number 2. Reconnected the screen to ACC connection and with old control board being back in play the screen powers on and off when you open and close the door.
However a new problems had cropped up While my iPhone is connected and plugged into screen mirroring it does not play any sound through its speakers. I presume this happens because the iPhone regards HDMI as the main source and can not be changed inside the phone. My thinking is that it can be solved by connecting it to a bluetooth devise which SC natively does not have or by connecting the new screen control board to to the both solutions require further modifications. Bluetooth sound like a better option in the long run as I can use it without connecting the phone.
If anyone installed a bluetooth connection for playing music can you give me your feedback please? How hard was it, how well does it work and how much does it cost?
All together this project costed me around $100 in parts for the rearview camera and new screen with a drive board.
04-22-18, 03:44 AM
Help me find a 12V connection
Good luck as you proceed.
While my iPhone is connected and plugged into screen mirroring it does not play any sound through its speakers. I presume this happens because the iPhone regards HDMI as the main source and can not be changed inside the phone. My thinking is that it can be solved by connecting it to a bluetooth devise which SC natively does not have or by connecting the new screen control board to to the both solutions require further modifications. Bluetooth sound like a better option in the long run as I can use it without connecting the phone.