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Old Dec 8, 2015 | 10:18 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Neil E
I may be able to help with a few pictures of what the rear seat area offers as I'm still in the process of finishing the bass set up. I ruled out using a free air driver or an under seat space saver bass box as the trusted local installer said I wouldn't be satisfied with the sound. There's so little room to work with, in the end I decided to remove the rear seats and went with two JL10s in sealed enclosures. It might look okay if I ever get around to completing it.
...Neil I like the setup you have there, I know it will look even better when finished. This gives me another idea to think about
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Old Dec 8, 2015 | 10:22 PM
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..hey Lex this is the setup I posted about earlier, he has 2 - 10in JL's mounted in the box,then recovered to match the interior
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Old Dec 8, 2015 | 10:26 PM
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...this is what it looks like underneath, the woofers are firing down towards the floor
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Old Dec 8, 2015 | 10:27 PM
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...now this is my favorite !!!
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Old Dec 9, 2015 | 03:27 PM
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Yes I like that too. Good choice of equipment and very neatly done.

I've built mine in such a way that it can be removed and returned to the original rear seats with just the ML sub providing bass in about an hour. The Alpine head unit has pre-outs with adjustable crossover points to send the desired bass signal to the DLS amp completely independent of the ML amp. The original speakers are retained courtesy of the Beatsonic interface and that also makes it a simple cabling exercise to power the amp on with the head unit.
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Old Dec 9, 2015 | 07:31 PM
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Ok I think I'm gonna go with the ten inch sub in the oem position
What's the best and correct way to hook up the amp that's powering the sub?

Thanks a lot guys!!!!!!
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Old Dec 10, 2015 | 01:34 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by LEXZILLA
Ok I think I'm gonna go with the ten inch sub in the oem position
What's the best and correct way to hook up the amp that's powering the sub?

Thanks a lot guys!!!!!!
Go back and read post four.
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Old Dec 10, 2015 | 06:56 AM
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Yes I read post four but I'm replacing the oem subwoofer with a ten inch sub so how can I install the amp without losing the 16 ohms required by the oem system?
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Old Dec 10, 2015 | 02:55 PM
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Originally Posted by LEXZILLA
Yes I read post four but I'm replacing the oem subwoofer with a ten inch sub so how can I install the amp without losing the 16 ohms required by the oem system?
I cannot answer your question, I just wanted to make sure you saw that post before you spent money, connected everything and were disappointed...when you figure out the solution, please let us know and post up some pictures!
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Old Dec 10, 2015 | 08:02 PM
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I really appreciate everyone's help thanks to everyone who gave me advice
I will post pictures when I get this thing figured out thanks again
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Old Dec 12, 2015 | 12:44 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by LEXZILLA
Yes I read post four but I'm replacing the oem subwoofer with a ten inch sub so how can I install the amp without losing the 16 ohms required by the oem system?
It's important to use a rare 16 ohm sub if using the original ML amp to drive it. It would be a straight swap in terms of cabling but if the plan is to add a new amplifier and sub, a 4 ohm load would be fine. The tricky parts are supplying sufficient power and sending the bass signal to the amp.

There are lots of tutorials for car audio that explain matters far better than I could. it may be worth reading advice from suppliers like Crutchfield and others before proceeding.
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Old Dec 19, 2015 | 11:25 AM
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Update:
I'm building a box that goes between the rear wall of the trunk to where the tray that the top
Goes into gonna put a ten inch sub and a amplifier to push it I'll keep you posted
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Old Dec 19, 2015 | 11:26 AM
  #28  
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Old Dec 19, 2015 | 11:28 AM
  #29  
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It'll be cool to see the finished product
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Old Dec 19, 2015 | 11:34 AM
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Looking forward to the finished project!
Take plenty of pictures!
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