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I may be able to help with a few pictures of what the rear seat area offers as I'm still in the process of finishing the bass set up. I ruled out using a free air driver or an under seat space saver bass box as the trusted local installer said I wouldn't be satisfied with the sound. There's so little room to work with, in the end I decided to remove the rear seats and went with two JL10s in sealed enclosures. It might look okay if I ever get around to completing it.
...Neil I like the setup you have there, I know it will look even better when finished. This gives me another idea to think about
Yes I like that too. Good choice of equipment and very neatly done.
I've built mine in such a way that it can be removed and returned to the original rear seats with just the ML sub providing bass in about an hour. The Alpine head unit has pre-outs with adjustable crossover points to send the desired bass signal to the DLS amp completely independent of the ML amp. The original speakers are retained courtesy of the Beatsonic interface and that also makes it a simple cabling exercise to power the amp on with the head unit.
Yes I read post four but I'm replacing the oem subwoofer with a ten inch sub so how can I install the amp without losing the 16 ohms required by the oem system?
Yes I read post four but I'm replacing the oem subwoofer with a ten inch sub so how can I install the amp without losing the 16 ohms required by the oem system?
I cannot answer your question, I just wanted to make sure you saw that post before you spent money, connected everything and were disappointed...when you figure out the solution, please let us know and post up some pictures!
Yes I read post four but I'm replacing the oem subwoofer with a ten inch sub so how can I install the amp without losing the 16 ohms required by the oem system?
It's important to use a rare 16 ohm sub if using the original ML amp to drive it. It would be a straight swap in terms of cabling but if the plan is to add a new amplifier and sub, a 4 ohm load would be fine. The tricky parts are supplying sufficient power and sending the bass signal to the amp.
There are lots of tutorials for car audio that explain matters far better than I could. it may be worth reading advice from suppliers like Crutchfield and others before proceeding.
Update:
I'm building a box that goes between the rear wall of the trunk to where the tray that the top
Goes into gonna put a ten inch sub and a amplifier to push it I'll keep you posted