Sway bar upgrade issue on stock ride height.
03-24-15, 09:18 PM
#1
Sway bar upgrade issue on stock ride height.
I kinda expected this so just putting it out there for others. I had my factory suspensions on and installed my rear sway bars using the shorter isf sway bar end links. The isf sway bar end links are just over half an inch shorter so is under more stress than the factory end links at stock ride height. I was going into a parking lot which had a steep incline and I went in at an angle to prevent bottoming out and I heard a loud clank, one of my end links snapped. So yeah if your car is not lowered then this might happen if you are doing the sway bar upgrade. On the plus side the moog end links do have a lifetime warranty on them 
03-25-15, 10:04 AM
#5
Lexus Test Driver
I HAD THE EXACT SAME EXPERIENCE WITH THE THOSE MOOG LINKS.
It turns out they were not tightened to specs; 35 ft lbs on links and 25 ft lbs brackets.
Tightened to spec and "clank" went away!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
It turns out they were not tightened to specs; 35 ft lbs on links and 25 ft lbs brackets.
Tightened to spec and "clank" went away!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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03-25-15, 09:51 PM
#8
the end links are fine.. my car wasn't lowered when I put it on and since the isf end links are shorter there is too much tension on it at stock ride height. This is why it snapped, easy fix is to replace the end link.. hopefully can get to it this weekend.
03-25-15, 09:55 PM
#9
It's not the brand that is the issue really. The isf sway bar holes for the end links are bigger than the factory sc430 sway bar holes, to fill that you need to use the isf sway bar end links. the isf end link regardless of brand is just over a half inch shorter than the factory end links. Because it is shorter it adds more tension at stock ride height. If your car is lowered by an inch or more you will have no issues.
03-26-15, 06:49 AM
#10
There are a couple of other solutions:
To use the stock SC430 end-link, you can get a steel sleeve from a hardware store that has an Inner Diameter close to the 10mm stock SC430 end-link size bolt and having an Outer Diameter that will fit through the 13mm hole in the ISF Rear Sway Bar. The sleeve doesn't actually have to be metric, just so that it allows a 10mm bolt to be inserted into it and then that combination can fit into the 13mm hole without slop. This will require the sleeve to be cut to the length of the Sway bar thickness at the flat section that has the 13mm attachment hole. Then use threadlocker in the assembly. Or, if you have a lathe, you could machine this out of steel rod stock.
The other solution requires quite a bit more fabrication/modification. I couldn't find any after-market End-Links that use Heim joints. But, you can order parts and put together your own ones. I just finished doing this (sorry no pics - already on the car). This does require quite a bit of fitting, metal cutting, rethreading, retapping, though. I measured the hole-to-hole length of the stock SC430 end-links at about 5" (127mm), and duplicated that length. I thread locked the assembly together and, so far, all seems to be ok.
To use the stock SC430 end-link, you can get a steel sleeve from a hardware store that has an Inner Diameter close to the 10mm stock SC430 end-link size bolt and having an Outer Diameter that will fit through the 13mm hole in the ISF Rear Sway Bar. The sleeve doesn't actually have to be metric, just so that it allows a 10mm bolt to be inserted into it and then that combination can fit into the 13mm hole without slop. This will require the sleeve to be cut to the length of the Sway bar thickness at the flat section that has the 13mm attachment hole. Then use threadlocker in the assembly. Or, if you have a lathe, you could machine this out of steel rod stock.
The other solution requires quite a bit more fabrication/modification. I couldn't find any after-market End-Links that use Heim joints. But, you can order parts and put together your own ones. I just finished doing this (sorry no pics - already on the car). This does require quite a bit of fitting, metal cutting, rethreading, retapping, though. I measured the hole-to-hole length of the stock SC430 end-links at about 5" (127mm), and duplicated that length. I thread locked the assembly together and, so far, all seems to be ok.
Last edited by TXFM; 03-26-15 at 07:32 AM. Reason: clarification that using stock end link is possible in 1st Solution
03-26-15, 08:18 PM
#11
There are a couple of other solutions:
To use the stock SC430 end-link, you can get a steel sleeve from a hardware store that has an Inner Diameter close to the 10mm stock SC430 end-link size bolt and having an Outer Diameter that will fit through the 13mm hole in the ISF Rear Sway Bar. The sleeve doesn't actually have to be metric, just so that it allows a 10mm bolt to be inserted into it and then that combination can fit into the 13mm hole without slop. This will require the sleeve to be cut to the length of the Sway bar thickness at the flat section that has the 13mm attachment hole. Then use threadlocker in the assembly. Or, if you have a lathe, you could machine this out of steel rod stock.
The other solution requires quite a bit more fabrication/modification. I couldn't find any after-market End-Links that use Heim joints. But, you can order parts and put together your own ones. I just finished doing this (sorry no pics - already on the car). This does require quite a bit of fitting, metal cutting, rethreading, retapping, though. I measured the hole-to-hole length of the stock SC430 end-links at about 5" (127mm), and duplicated that length. I thread locked the assembly together and, so far, all seems to be ok.
To use the stock SC430 end-link, you can get a steel sleeve from a hardware store that has an Inner Diameter close to the 10mm stock SC430 end-link size bolt and having an Outer Diameter that will fit through the 13mm hole in the ISF Rear Sway Bar. The sleeve doesn't actually have to be metric, just so that it allows a 10mm bolt to be inserted into it and then that combination can fit into the 13mm hole without slop. This will require the sleeve to be cut to the length of the Sway bar thickness at the flat section that has the 13mm attachment hole. Then use threadlocker in the assembly. Or, if you have a lathe, you could machine this out of steel rod stock.
The other solution requires quite a bit more fabrication/modification. I couldn't find any after-market End-Links that use Heim joints. But, you can order parts and put together your own ones. I just finished doing this (sorry no pics - already on the car). This does require quite a bit of fitting, metal cutting, rethreading, retapping, though. I measured the hole-to-hole length of the stock SC430 end-links at about 5" (127mm), and duplicated that length. I thread locked the assembly together and, so far, all seems to be ok.
This is what happened to my end link, just replaced it today.
03-27-15, 07:59 AM
#12
The end link doesn't look like it was well made. See the surface rust? In any event, I don't think it should fail in this mode. It almost looks like shear force damage. Should have been stronger.
06-03-15, 02:28 PM
#14
kuWuPt, did you replace the end links with another SC430 OEM links or you had to upgrade using IS F links? if you had to use different links than OEM please post the part number, thanks in advance!
06-04-15, 11:59 PM
#15
My car is lowered now so replaced the moog end link with the same. For stock ride height TXFM has pointed out some options on post #10
"There are a couple of other solutions:
To use the stock SC430 end-link, you can get a steel sleeve from a hardware store that has an Inner Diameter close to the 10mm stock SC430 end-link size bolt and having an Outer Diameter that will fit through the 13mm hole in the ISF Rear Sway Bar. The sleeve doesn't actually have to be metric, just so that it allows a 10mm bolt to be inserted into it and then that combination can fit into the 13mm hole without slop. This will require the sleeve to be cut to the length of the Sway bar thickness at the flat section that has the 13mm attachment hole. Then use threadlocker in the assembly. Or, if you have a lathe, you could machine this out of steel rod stock.
The other solution requires quite a bit more fabrication/modification. I couldn't find any after-market End-Links that use Heim joints. But, you can order parts and put together your own ones. I just finished doing this (sorry no pics - already on the car). This does require quite a bit of fitting, metal cutting, rethreading, retapping, though. I measured the hole-to-hole length of the stock SC430 end-links at about 5" (127mm), and duplicated that length. I thread locked the assembly together and, so far, all seems to be ok."
"There are a couple of other solutions:
To use the stock SC430 end-link, you can get a steel sleeve from a hardware store that has an Inner Diameter close to the 10mm stock SC430 end-link size bolt and having an Outer Diameter that will fit through the 13mm hole in the ISF Rear Sway Bar. The sleeve doesn't actually have to be metric, just so that it allows a 10mm bolt to be inserted into it and then that combination can fit into the 13mm hole without slop. This will require the sleeve to be cut to the length of the Sway bar thickness at the flat section that has the 13mm attachment hole. Then use threadlocker in the assembly. Or, if you have a lathe, you could machine this out of steel rod stock.
The other solution requires quite a bit more fabrication/modification. I couldn't find any after-market End-Links that use Heim joints. But, you can order parts and put together your own ones. I just finished doing this (sorry no pics - already on the car). This does require quite a bit of fitting, metal cutting, rethreading, retapping, though. I measured the hole-to-hole length of the stock SC430 end-links at about 5" (127mm), and duplicated that length. I thread locked the assembly together and, so far, all seems to be ok."
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