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I also have an indigo ink car (2002) but I take mine to a car wash. It is my daily driver, so it gets dirty a lot. At my previous job, it would get dirty in one day just sitting at the office. I guess that there was a lot of dust (or pollen) in the air there.
I had a clear bra (or whatever the clear film is called) installed on the front end to help protect it from further rock chips after I had the front bumper replaced a number of years back. The clear bra is a good investment.
you guys got a really rare color. My understanding is only 5 % of all productionSC was made in the IINK Pearl
Just wondering but How much did you guys pay for your SC ? To keep the swirls and scratches away, try the 2 bucket method when washing. I just got my SC detail and the shop told me washing the car by hand really helps the deep blue from swirls and scratches
After the brake master cylinder crisis, I finally had some time to finish up the speakers. As most of you know, I replaced most of the speakers with used but functional ML speakers except for the sub, look back in the thread if interested.
when I was replacing the door speakers (sony) with The correct ML woofers, I noticed the mid range speakers were not ML. Sure enough they were aftermarket 4ohm speakers.
After installing everything I was listening to the system and it sounds great but the mids were too loud so I decided to purchase 4ohm, 50watt resistors. I figured it would reduce the volume ever so slightly and the resistors would not over heat due to the power rating.
I installed them tonight and did a sound comparison with the resistors in and out. The system sounds much better with the resistors in place. It reduced the volume just enough, the mids can still be heard and everything sounds more balanced.
The cost was worth it also, $8 for two resistors vs. over $100 for two ML mids.
Here are some pics
The other day I was on Craigslist checking out the SC430s for sale in Florida and wouldn't you know it, a deal I just had to have! No not another car but the Mark Levenson Mid range door speakers I have been missing!!! Not only that, this person was selling the door 6x9s and the rear speakers! Bonus!
I replaced the aftermarket mid ranges AND the 4ohm resistors I had previously installed with the ML mid ranges, the stereo is almost back to the OEM 8ohm ML system. The sub is after market but it is the correct 16ohm ML spec.
As for the 6x9s and the rear 5in speakers, they worked but all four of them required new foam around the edges. I just happened to have the foam rebuild kits left over from my previous ML speaker replacement...
Good to know. I wouldn't have expected the resistors to have affected the sound that much.
Before I came across the craigslist deal I was going to replace the 4ohm resistors with 3ohm resistors. That should have given me a little more sound, but as you know, I found those ML speakers...
What I would really like to do is increase the power to the sub woofer. I believe I could do this by taking the sub output of the radio and run that directly to a new amp, then connect the amp to the sub woofer.
Before I came across the craigslist deal I was going to replace the 4ohm resistors with 3ohm resistors. That should have given me a little more sound, but as you know, I found those ML speakers...
What I would really like to do is increase the power to the sub woofer. I believe I could do this by taking the sub output of the radio and run that directly to a new amp, then connect the amp to the sub woofer.
Thoughts anyone?
I did that exact same thing. I pulled the output from the OEM subwoofer channel using a line out converter (LOC) and ran it to my JL Audio A1200 amp and then back to a JL 8" subwoofer which I mounted in the stock subwoofer location. I found that the entire system lost it's "loudness." I believe this is due to the fact that the system needs that 16ohm resistance to keep the other speakers working at peak performance. I ended up keeping my "modified" 16-ohm subwoofer and using the leads off the LOC to piggyback off the output and into the A1200 and a trunk 8" JL subwoofer in a custom corner box that fits right over the left trunk cubby hole. So basically I have two subwoofers. One that is a modified dual voice coil (8ohm per coil) subwoofer wired in series to give me 16ohm in the OEM location and a second 8" JL in the trunk. My sound is awesome and I get some deep thump for sure... without that nasty wake the neighbors bass, and no car rattle.
I did that exact same thing. I pulled the output from the OEM subwoofer channel using a line out converter (LOC) and ran it to my JL Audio A1200 amp and then back to a JL 8" subwoofer which I mounted in the stock subwoofer location. I found that the entire system lost it's "loudness." I believe this is due to the fact that the system needs that 16ohm resistance to keep the other speakers working at peak performance. I ended up keeping my "modified" 16-ohm subwoofer and using the leads off the LOC to piggyback off the output and into the A1200 and a trunk 8" JL subwoofer in a custom corner box that fits right over the left trunk cubby hole. So basically I have two subwoofers. One that is a modified dual voice coil (8ohm per coil) subwoofer wired in series to give me 16ohm in the OEM location and a second 8" JL in the trunk. My sound is awesome and I get some deep thump for sure... without that nasty wake the neighbors bass, and no car rattle.
Okay, really good info Shawn! It has me thinking about this and I believe I may be good to go. The OEM head unit is gone and I am using the AVH-5700 unit. If I remember correctly, the fronts, are the only channels from the head unit wired into BeatSonic, which is wired into the ML Amp.
The head unit also has a channel for the sub woofer, I can wire that sub channel into an amp and take the output of the amp and feed it to the sub woofer.
I could leave the sub connected to the new amp and the ML amp or I could disconnect the ML sub channel and wire in four 4ohm resistors=16ohms.
TBH, I'm not sure how the Beatsonic is wired and thus can't give you any true advice in regards to it. If you have an aftermarket headunit, it should have preamp outputs. You can just run a RCA Composite wire from those output to the trunk. Install a new amp and leave the ML as it stands (to avoid any Beatsonic ***'d problems). Then you can either add a 16ohm resistor to the OEM subwoofer wire (since you have experience with resistors), and install a new 8" subwoofer in the OEM location. That's about the best game plan I can come up with for your situation.
OR you can keep the OEM subwoofer in place, and do a new custom box in the trunk and avoid all the headache. You would just have to run that RCA cable from the headunit to the trunk and install your amp and sub in the trunk. I valued the trunk space and thus had my guy make a custom small MDF box for my JL 8w3v3-4. If you don't care about trunk space, then you can do any slim/shallow mount subwoofers in a slim (truck) box that will lay flat.
Thanks for your reply.
The cage is apart and the motor is out. Replacement should arrive Monday. I may try heat, but hair dryer hot, not butane flame hot.
The old motor would spin in reverse when powered, but would not start on it's own when the power was reversed, and would spin slower when the shaft was given a spin to start.
Thanks for your reply.
The cage is apart and the motor is out. Replacement should arrive Monday. I may try heat, but hair dryer hot, not butane flame hot.
The old motor would spin in reverse when powered, but would not start on it's own when the power was reversed, and would spin slower when the shaft was given a spin to start.
i honestly thought the gear just slid off the end and don’t remember it being pressed on. Can ya wedge something in there to provide a little more pull. Hope that makes sense.
there is no way for the gear to come off when assembled so it has to just sit on the keyed shaft
06-09-15, 11:05 AM
