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No, sorry I have only done the front ones and the sub. I think the rest are good on my car. I just bought all the parts to do the timing belt so some time soon I will try and tackle that job next.
The timing belt is on my list also! I know some have posted that they will purchase a kit from Lexus. I am going to compare that price with other aftermarket kits. I am sure I should not mention the aftermarket company names unless they are a sponsor.
Also, when you removed the door panel, did you have any issues removing the top part from the window opening or channel?
As for the panel, make sure you've removed all the screws (especially the one under the window switch, under the crescent shaped plastic handle dressing, and the one under the arm rest inside the pocket). Then roll the window down. Trace around the outer edge of the panel with your hand so you're able to pop the plastic retainers out. Then the entire panel should pull up. I always angle the rear part of the panel up and then the front, as if spinning the entire panel counterclockwise. Hopefully this helps.
I really appreciate the instructions on the final step in the door panel removal. I did confirm that I had removed the eight screws and two plastic push pins in the fwd part of the door.
As for the speaker offer, I will respectfully pass at this time. I do not mind aftermarket but would prefer minimal modifications to the car.
I did the rear speakers. You have to fully remove the rear seat to get to them. This starts at the rear head rests, then the rear seat bottom, then the rear seat back, then the sides. Speakers are 5" (i think), i replaced with JL 4" Two way. Lots more volume coming as they are 4ohm (a calculated risk in fear of burning out the amp) vs OEM 8ohm. But I love the sound and am very happy, and no amp burn out yet. Fingers crossed.
I did the rear speakers. You have to fully remove the rear seat to get to them. This starts at the rear head rests, then the rear seat bottom, then the rear seat back, then the sides. Speakers are 5" (i think), i replaced with JL 4" Two way. Lots more volume coming as they are 4ohm (a calculated risk in fear of burning out the amp) vs OEM 8ohm. But I love the sound and am very happy, and no amp burn out yet. Fingers crossed.
I currently have the rear speakers and sub out of the car. The voice coils in all three are shot. No sound from any of them and I measure an open when I ohm them out.
Check out post #29 from mademedoit. He posted a link to a sub that fit his car with minimal modification. I purchased one.
If it were not for bad luck I would have no luck! LoL
I finally had a chance to work on the GPS screen motors last night. I knew the tilt was bad and I replaced it. The motor tilted the screen as it should when 12vdc was applied directly to the motor.
Everything was put back together and reinstalled in the car. The car was turned on and the open button was pushed. The screen opened up and screen came on. I pushed the tilt button and nothing...I then pushed the close button and nothing again.
My problem is either the buttons or the circuit board in the screen unit
The pictures are out of order, if you have any questions let me know.
Ha, we live similar lives. I was 25Q in US Army and worked on sat equipment at JBLM.
Yes, I do believe you are correct! I was an airborne systems technician...traveled the world and had fun!
I ordered a used navi screen assembly. I do plan to look at the PCB very closely for any cold solder joints. I am also going to check and possibly replace the capacitors on the board.
I purchase the sub you recommended and it sounds great!
The cost was certainly reasonable under $50. The installation was easy too... I soldered the wires to the speaker terminals like the factory but the crimp style connectors would work just fine for this application.
The sub woofer fit perfectly, if not better in the factory plastic case...the sub is installed and sounds just fine.
It has a heavier magnet and weighs probliy like one pound more than the factory sub. Puts out a little more bass in the back. You must take the time to solder it in series because its 8 ohm and you want to mimic the factory 16 ohm. Unforchanitly all name brand stuff is 2 or 4 ohms, the positive is that its only $40 for this one. Made in China of course.
From the back.
Removed some panels, only slightly louder inside, bass not effected much. Sorry about the Chevy hat I did not buy it lol.
If you decide to do this mod be sure to note the wire pass through. A slot is cut out of the plastic for the wires.
Note the new foam. I purchased it at Lowes. It is window insulation, comes in a roll and has adhesive on one side. Price, $2.50.
Before the insulation I was getting noise from the metal vibrating...the foam did the trick! Sounds really good!
Good stuff man, and you even found it for $18, oh well.
LoL, I wish! I paid $38 shipped and when I received it the invoice showed the billing name and address of the guy I purchased it from. He was playing middleman on eBay, charging more than double.
I just wanted others to get a better deal than you and I.
The guy on eBay is just being a good capitalist and I should have done more research to locate a better deal. Either way, it sure beats the price of a new or used ML.
The guy on eBay is just being a good capitalist and I should have done more research to locate a better deal. Either way, it sure beats the price of a new or used ML.
You got that right! $38 is cheap with regards to replacing the ML speakers. I guess we are paying for the name.
02-09-15, 01:31 AM
, and you even found it for $18, oh well.