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Air conditioner not working, no cold air, no vents. No A/C!
Experts I need your help again.
Car sat there for 2 days non driven. Started it up, turned on the AC and it wouldn't blow through the front vents no matter what "mode" I select whether its on vents or legs. Instead it only blows through the windshield ones for the windshield. And it is also blowing outside air or maybe hot air, regardless what temperature I select and with the "AC" button on.
Before when I would press the "AC" button while the air was running I can hear a compressor or some clicking sound which is normal but now there's no sound when I press that and no sound when "mode" is changed.
What I've tried:
All fuses, all are good.
AC relay (good).
Disconnect the battery for 10 min, reconnect. Nothing.
Repair manual suggested action where it displays some codes. (I failed to link those codes to a proper definition in the manual)
Its been 90+ degree here in CA. I cant drive this car without AC. I'm forced to take my other car which leads the German's to a victory in this battle.
If this problem and all of the stated symptoms occurred all at once, I usually assume a single point of failure
caused everything.
The Heat A/C in my 2004 has been working perfectly with the exception of losing the R134a charge while in
winter storage. With no refrigerant, all of the controls, settings and fans worked normally, but could only
get non-cooled air. The compressor would never come on due to the low refrigerant sensor switch circuit.
Being as the display functions but the controls don't cause the air source to change, the AC controller assy
is an obvious possible problem area, especially with the multiple symptoms.
Before going to the dealer here are some easy checks to make.
Think I would pop that control panel out and verify that the harnesses are securely seated.
Next would be to check the fuses involved with the Heat AC system. Remember that a simple visual check
is not enough. You should pull the fuse and do a continuity check with a Digital Multi Meter on it also. There
are several fuses to check, not all are obviously labeled as A/C related.
On my 02, I have a mode I can make go into and it will tell me if something is wrong in that system. Someone else here will be able to direct you there. I forgot how I know this. Don't know if I got instruction here or where.
The only thing I had not done was floptop's advice about checking the wires. I pulled out the console AC unit and saw 2 out of the 3 cables had come unplugged Thanks a lot for the response and the idea and everyone else who contributed.
My 02 A/C works fine, is periodic maintenance necessary?
Prasha:
The A/C system is a sealed system and as long as everything stays that way, there isn't much maintenance
required. The refrigerant ( R134a ) and lubricant ( ND-8 ) in the system never needs changing. However, it is
not considered unusual or unacceptable if the system loses a small amount of R134a over time. It is under 50+
PSI while not in use and around 200 PSI ( high side ) during operation. Here are my thoughts on maintenance.
1. It is a good idea to run the A/C ( compressor ) year round to allow the normal operation to move the lubricant
around in the system. This will help keep the seals in good condition & working.
2. Check to ensure that the two A/C service access ports ( Hi and Lo side ) have their caps on and securely in place.
The Lo side is on the A/C refrigerant line by the compressor ( aluminum pipe ), drivers side of engine, a bit forward
of the engine oil dip stick. The Hi side cap is in front of the condenser core ( in front of the radiator ), on the drivers
side. It has the low pressure switch and the sight-glass in the same tube line.
3. Depending on your local conditions, check and clean and bugs / debris from the front of the condenser core.
This will allow better air flow for cooling both the A/C system and the engine.
4. Replace the cabin air filter at regular intervals, depending on vehicle use. There is a DIY post or two on this
procedure.
5. While the system is on & working properly ( hopefully forever ), clean the A/C system sight-glass and using a
flashlight, look at the refrigerant flowing by. It should not be cloudy and a few occasional bubbles is normal.
If you ever feel the system is not blowing cold enough air, check the sight-glass. Too many bubbles passing by
means the refrigerant is low and some service is required.
6. Occasionally check under the car while the A/C is on, to verify some water condensation is dripping from the
evaporator core drain tube ( passenger side of engine compartment, by firewall, below battery ). It can become
clogged by debris entering the system from the vents near the windshield wiper park area.
Really not much to do. Just run the A/C frequently and keep the car clean.
The only thing I had not done was floptop's advice about checking the wires. I pulled out the console AC unit and saw 2 out of the 3 cables had come unplugged Thanks a lot for the response and the idea and everyone else who contributed.
Yes its working fine. But there has been another problem ever since I bought the car used. There is something rattling from what sounds like to be from behind the glove compartment. Took the compartment out, AC filter, and sound still comes. Nothing is loose inside the hood either. I had someone take a look at it said it is behind the glove compartment and it is the AC box and it is nearly impossible to make it stop. Said the entire dash needs to be taken apart and might still not have access to it.
I had a car with that annoying noise once. Seemed to happen as I made a turn, mostly. Figured it was a coin that got dropped down the windshield defrost air vent and was rolling back and forth in the air duct somewhere.
Taking the A/C Heater core assy out of the SC430 covers many pages in the repair manual...
I had a car with that annoying noise once. Seemed to happen as I made a turn, mostly. Figured it was a coin that got dropped down the windshield defrost air vent and was rolling back and forth in the air duct somewhere.
Taking the A/C Heater core assy out of the SC430 covers many pages in the repair manual...
I don't envy you that job. It would be a very difficult task with only those diagrams to guide you.
While the service manuals instructions are condensed on to 3 pages, most of the steps (43 for removal ) are just
links to other sections of the manual where the complete process is detailed. Chapter 55 is for the A/C Heater but
this job references Chapters 67, 60, 50, 82, 71 and 65 ( some of them several times during the 43 steps ). I don't think
I could get all of that copied or photographed and posted. If you lived near by, I would lend you the manual for the
weekend.
Another option is getting the shop manuals, used, on EBay. Prices vary and there are 2 volumes plus a third one
that covers the electrical ( for my 2004 ). Think they went to three volumes plus the one electrical in 2006.
thank you i appreciate you looking into it. I checked on ebay theyre quite pricey. I wonder if take it to local lexus mechanic maybe they can do it there or have an online or pdf version of the manual. I doubt they purchase every repair manual for every single car. They must be using some sort of computerized system
Originally Posted by FlopTop04
I don't envy you that job. It would be a very difficult task with only those diagrams to guide you.
While the service manuals instructions are condensed on to 3 pages, most of the steps (43 for removal ) are just
links to other sections of the manual where the complete process is detailed. Chapter 55 is for the A/C Heater but
this job references Chapters 67, 60, 50, 82, 71 and 65 ( some of them several times during the 43 steps ). I don't think
I could get all of that copied or photographed and posted. If you lived near by, I would lend you the manual for the
weekend.
Another option is getting the shop manuals, used, on EBay. Prices vary and there are 2 volumes plus a third one
that covers the electrical ( for my 2004 ). Think they went to three volumes plus the one electrical in 2006.
The switch by the sight glass is for what? There is no freon in the sight glass the a
Originally Posted by FlopTop04
Prasha:
The A/C system is a sealed system and as long as everything stays that way, there isn't much maintenance
required. The refrigerant ( R134a ) and lubricant ( ND-8 ) in the system never needs changing. However, it is
not considered unusual or unacceptable if the system loses a small amount of R134a over time. It is under 50+
PSI while not in use and around 200 PSI ( high side ) during operation. Here are my thoughts on maintenance.
1. It is a good idea to run the A/C ( compressor ) year round to allow the normal operation to move the lubricant
around in the system. This will help keep the seals in good condition & working.
2. Check to ensure that the two A/C service access ports ( Hi and Lo side ) have their caps on and securely in place.
The Lo side is on the A/C refrigerant line by the compressor ( aluminum pipe ), drivers side of engine, a bit forward
of the engine oil dip stick. The Hi side cap is in front of the condenser core ( in front of the radiator ), on the drivers
side. It has the low pressure switch and the sight-glass in the same tube line.
3. Depending on your local conditions, check and clean and bugs / debris from the front of the condenser core.
This will allow better air flow for cooling both the A/C system and the engine.
4. Replace the cabin air filter at regular intervals, depending on vehicle use. There is a DIY post or two on this
procedure.
5. While the system is on & working properly ( hopefully forever ), clean the A/C system sight-glass and using a
flashlight, look at the refrigerant flowing by. It should not be cloudy and a few occasional bubbles is normal.
If you ever feel the system is not blowing cold enough air, check the sight-glass. Too many bubbles passing by
means the refrigerant is low and some service is required.
6. Occasionally check under the car while the A/C is on, to verify some water condensation is dripping from the
evaporator core drain tube ( passenger side of engine compartment, by firewall, below battery ). It can become
clogged by debris entering the system from the vents near the windshield wiper park area.
Really not much to do. Just run the A/C frequently and keep the car clean.
Posted this on another thread but hopefully it will help someone. I looked for the AC Low pressure port for 2 hours before finding it. I used A/C Pro recharge kit and it worked awesome. Only one side, the passenger side was cooling. The hardest part was finding the Low pressure Port. Here is a picture of it. It is right beneath the oil dipstick and right in front of the fan blade so be careful. BEWARE~ I actually turned the car off, connected the hose, then turned it back on with the AC full blast to get the pressure reading. Turning the car off to connect the pressure gage will work but you have to turn it back on with the air conditioning on high to get a proper reading.
ES 350 5th generation 2008 AC low pressure port is right under the oil dipstick.<br/>
07-11-13, 02:29 AM
Air conditioner not working, no cold air, no vents. No A/C!
Thanks a lot for the response and the idea and everyone else who contributed.
