SC430 - 2nd Gen (2001-2010)

2012 RADIO UPGRADE w/Steering Wheel Controls

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Old 07-10-12, 01:09 PM
  #46  
Matthias
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I am too just getting ready to install Beatsonic with a Pioneer 8400, hope will not have similar fitting issues. One question I have, however. Beatsonic looks for two wires to control amp and antenna to switch them on, I believe. Pioneer has only one blue wire to control any of these, shall I just connect both Beatsonic wires to the one single wire from the Pioneer? Help appreciated as always.

Matthias
Old 07-10-12, 02:29 PM
  #47  
Z3NK1
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Yes, connect the one blue pioneer wire to both the blue, and blue/white wire on the beatsonic kit. Newer Pioneer decks do not use two remote wires like they used to. Just be prepared to have your antenna go up everytime the stereo is on, regardless of what media you're listening to. I'd recommend pulling your trunk apart and disconnecting the antenna if that bothers you.

The beatsonic kit wires come with butt-connectors, don't cut them off like I did or you don't get any warranty.

I think my beatsonic kit has an incorrect side plate in it, it's smaller than the other side and there is a visible gap. You will probably not have this issue, I just have terrible luck.

You will likely have to use a nibbler or dremel to slot some holes in the mounting brackets where the stereo door mounts to the deck. This should allow you to move the deck back a few mm to allow the door to close properly. I had to shift it back about 4mm.

Make sure you test that the dimmer wire works properly before you put everything back together, mine didn't for some reason and I had to manually turn the dimmer up in the day, and down at night.

If anyone wants the beatsonic kit (with cut off butt-connectors) for cheap shoot me a PM. I bought another one that doesn't allow steering wheel controls (my car has no nav) so I don't need it any more. In fact I don't need that one either becuase I ripped it all out and went back to stock so I have it for sale too.

Last edited by Z3NK1; 07-10-12 at 02:36 PM.
Old 07-10-12, 04:56 PM
  #48  
Matthias
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Thanks, that information will make it much easier for me. I am sorry to hear that it did not work out for you
Old 09-01-12, 04:41 AM
  #49  
kjcole
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Alright. I'm jumping in and doing this! Waiting for the Pioneer head unit and sat radio to arrive and then I'll have everything on hand to start. Thanks Bob for your detailed installation write-up! Thanks Z3NK1 for a great deal on the Beatsonic unit.

Kelly
Old 10-01-12, 08:50 AM
  #50  
kjcole
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Hi Bob,

Well, I'm deep into the job of installing the new Beatsonic unit with the same head unit and satellite radio that you used. Thanks for your terrific write-up with pix. Beatsonic's instructions are ... sparse! I have a couple of questions (to Bob or anyone else who has done this job), if you don't mind answering, of course:

1. Did you attach the Beatsonic unit to anything (cable ties, hook/loop?), and exactly where did you stuff it? Can't see just letting it hang back there.

2. I understand that you put the sat radio unit in front glove box? Did you secure it in any way? Are you avoiding placing anything else in there (although cooling shouldn't be an issue)?

3. I have yet to place the mic and antenna. Planning on replicating your locations. Any tricks for running the cables, or is it obvious once I get to it (e.g, cable comes up between dash and window for antenna? Did you run mic cable inside pillar garnish?).

4. I installed the composite video cable. Just to be sure, one connects an RCA cable from the video out of the Pioneer to this video cable now tapped into the multi-display (i.e., this tapped into an input to the display, correct?).

4. Comments:

A. When I popped the dash trim out the vents didn't come with the trim - the top plastic retaining arms (connect vent to trim) snapped despite my best efforts. This was truly the hard part of the job so far. I found the ends for one each and expoxied them back on and hope that three retaining arms per vent will be enough and won't get any squeaking. The other two ends must have disappeared into tranny tunnel. Highly recommend stuffing the tunnel with towels to catch screws and broken plastic tabs! In retrospect I see that the key was getting a trim tool at exactly the point where the metal-clad prong on the two vent trims inserted into the dash (per your pictures). Rats, rats, rats - you can't imagine the foul language (thank goodness I had my garage sound system cranking out bluegrass at high dBs). It also took me a few minutes to realize that the vents just sit in the duct-work and must be lifted out after the trim was off (duh!) to reveal the top screws for the multi-display (and for the multi-display to be removed and reinstalled). Interestingly, the factory head unit required no wrestling once the screws were removed, as opposed to your experience.

B. When transferring the motorized cover assembly from the OEM head unit to the new head unit, none of the screws (OEM or supplied with Pioneer unit) would work for upper part of the assembly (passes through black plastic before reaching head unit). (Of course, used the OEM screws where the assembly attached to the OEM mounting brackets that were transferred to the new head unit first.) The Pioneer supplied screws weren't long enough while the thread was wrong on the OEM machine screws. I had to dig in my screw bin and found sheet metal or coarse wood screws of the correct diameter, and then cut the tips off with a bolt cutter. Just curious, did you attach the cover assembly at all 8 points (i.e., four on each side) or did you pass on the upper two mounting holes (seems secure without them - almost passed on them myself)??

Thanks,

Kelly

Last edited by kjcole; 10-01-12 at 09:03 AM.
Old 10-01-12, 03:50 PM
  #51  
VVTiBob
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Old 10-08-12, 09:57 AM
  #52  
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Done with my install! Basically I did what Bob did, except that I installed the video output from the head unit to the multi-display (OEM nav display). I also installed a bypass so that I could make phone calls will moving.

Not an install for the feint of heart (or I was just tired). There are just a lot of wires!! Plus, I had bad luck with a few retaining clips and tabs. I don't like quick taps, and the wires coming out of the head unit are small diameter compared to those coming from the BeatSonic - so I soldered and heat-shrank all my connections.

Don't do what I did:

1. When pulling the fake wood dash trim around the vents locate the clip with the metal retainer (see Bob's great pictures) and focus your trim tool there or you will break the top tabs that clip into the vents. I did and had to rebuild them.

2. Don't plug in the usb and optional iPod cabling without first threading your grommet for trimming the hole in the center console (where Bob and I ran those aux cables)....or you will have to tear the head unit back out. Aaaargh!

3. Stuff toweling into the tranny tunnel to catch the bolts and screws that you are going to drop.

4. Before you pull the OEM head unit set all your bass, treble, balance, and fade controls to 0.

5. If you take all week (like I did), put the battery on a trickle charge so you don't panic when the car spins, sputters, and doesn't start. These cars don't start if they just barely turn over (like others I've had)....a marginal charge on the battery won't do it.

With that said - that Pioneer head unit is pretty cool, gives you a sophisticated Bluetooth phone interface, HD Radio, great XM display/control, blah, blah. IT is nice to have modern audio, video, and communication electronics in the car.

Another big thanks to Bob for his great write-up and pictures.

Kelly
Old 10-08-12, 12:16 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by kjcole
that Pioneer head unit is pretty cool, gives you a sophisticated Bluetooth phone interface, HD Radio, great XM display/control, blah, blah. IT is nice to have modern audio, video, and communication electronics in the car.

Another big thanks to Bob for his great write-up and pictures.

Kelly
Did you use the same pioneer model that Bob used. I replaced mine about a month after Bob did. I am really enjoying it. Here's what I dislike:

1. Hard to read the display with top down on sunny days
2. Difficult to select a source on my pioneer model. You have to "roll down" for all selections and instead of rolling down, it selects he source your finger is on- my model has all the Internet options like pandora and aha radio as an example, which makes the list of applications rather long.
3. I wish the steering wheel mode button would go to the next song rather than be a fader. I know bob doesn't mind because he keeps his cover over the head unit. I guess it depends how you use your sound system
4. I do not find the navigation (pioneer) to be very user friendly. I also bypassed mine so it can be used while driving- but it is mostly used by my wife while i drive. The nav is very distracting to use while in motion and i would not recommend doing so unless your passenger is doing it for you.I have a 2012 odyssey touring and the navigation is extremely well engineered making anything you want to do on navigation practically possible blindfolded. The best I've ever used. It can also be used while driving- one of the few auto companies that allow it. Makes me wonder why Honda can do it, but most other companies will not allow inputting while driving.

I also give all accolades to Bob. He is a great asset to this forum, giving us great information, using a clear-headed technical explanation that is easy to understand, and outstanding DIY instructions. Thanks a million Bob (you must have a book coming out soon, right Bob?)
Old 10-08-12, 12:32 PM
  #54  
kjcole
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I used the same head unit as Bob. Yes, to switch sources you have to touch the upper left corner for a roll-down, but that works pretty well since my list of sources is shorter than yours - no problems there. I will miss that function on the steering wheel (Mode). I haven't had to top down yet so we'll see about the glare issue. One thing I don't like is the lack of simple EQ controls (like treble, mid-, bass). These touch screen head units with their multi-layered menus, and mini-computer-like functions will no doubt distract some drivers - it will take discipline.

Bottom line, I do feel like I am sacrificing convenience and ease of operation for greater functionality. Goodness, the manual is long (and poorly organized).

Kelly

EDIT: After a few days of driving I agree with Solman that the angle Lexus designed into the mounting points isn't optimal for a display screen. The screen tilts back (just like the OEM) where it is susceptible to glare. I've adjusted brightness and contrast and will survive. If it weren't for the OEM lid, you could put some stand-offs at the top mounting bolts and tilt the screen down a little.

Last edited by kjcole; 10-09-12 at 10:30 AM.
Old 10-17-12, 02:50 AM
  #55  
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Hi

I have one question. I just installed Beat-Sonic MVA-12L with Pioneer 8400BH into Lexus SC430 2002. I let car stereo shop install for me. However, the door cannot close perfectly. it pop-up a little bit. How did you fix this issue.

Second, the volume control on the steering wheel is not work. They told me that there is not a wire from stereo to steering wheel controller. I have to spend extra $200 + install cost to add any other adopt. How did you fix this issue?
Old 10-17-12, 06:01 AM
  #56  
VVTiBob
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The problem is the the shop you used! While I installed the 4400 model, not the 8400 as you did, it fit perfectly (although tight) and the steering wheel volume controls work fine with NO additional adapters. I believe the form factor (or dimensions) are identical. As you can see from pictures I previously posted it fits just fine. So I'm not sure what you mean by "pops up a little bit".
Solman, another member, installed the 8400 model unit. Hopefully he will chime in more specifically on your questions.
Old 10-17-12, 07:17 AM
  #57  
kjcole
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Agree with Bob. My steering wheel volume control works fine. Set your volume at the head unit at around 20. Just push and hold a volume button on the steering wheel. Should work.

As far as the lid goes, a few people have posted that to get it to close completely you MAY have to enlarge a few holes on the bracket that holds the lid mechanism to the new head unit (so it sits a little higher on the head unit and/or rotated back slightly). My lid needs another millimeter to close fully, but since only I notice it (and it is just the slightest bit off) I'm not pulling the head unit back out. If I have the head unit out 5 minutes with a file or Dremel tool on that bracket would do it (see my Note 3). If I were an installer and this was a customer's car I would have pulled it back out and done it.

Side note #1: I like the high-pass filter on the 4400, which allows you to filter out the really low (subwoofer) frequencies, EXCEPT FROM THE SUBWOOFER. This works fine since low freqs aren't directional. Now I might be able to stretch the original Levinson front speakers a while longer before the foam breaks down (and don't have to worry about kids cranking up the bass).

Side note 2: The 4400 has a 'sound stage' adjustment that I love. When driving alone (which is most of the time) I set it for 1 or 2 steps to the left (since the listener is on the left) and the presence changes astonishingly as if you were sitting directly in front of the stage. Can't replicate it with simple balance adjustments. Don't know exactly how they do it but the sound is impressive.

Note 3: Top down driving does wash out the screen a bit as Solman has noted, but usually not enough for me to curse. Sun at your back is worst. I probably will pull the unit, insert a few washers or stand-offs at the top connection points so the screen is more vertical, and enlarge the holes on the lid-to-head bracket so I can rotate the lid unit up and back until the lid closes properly with the more vertical orientation of the head unit. Really not that bad a job to pull the head unit once you understand how it all comes apart. Will post with pix if I go for it.

Kelly

Last edited by kjcole; 10-17-12 at 02:12 PM.
Old 10-17-12, 11:47 AM
  #58  
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Thank you VVTiBob and kjcole.

After I set the volume of stereo to be 20. Then, the volume controls of steering wheel are working fine now.

Now I have to figure out how to make the lid close perfectly. It is okay, only 0.5cm to be perfect; therefore, it is a little bit of awkward to me.

Do I require too much?
Old 10-17-12, 02:14 PM
  #59  
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0.5 cm is much too large of a gap to ignore, in my opinion.
Old 10-17-12, 05:30 PM
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Originally Posted by kjcole
My lid needs another millimeter to close fully, but since only I notice it (and it is just the slightest bit off) I'm not pulling the head unit back out. If I have the head unit out 5 minutes with a file or Dremel tool on that bracket would do it (see my Note 3). If I were an installer and this was a customer's car I would have pulled it back out and done it right.

Kelly

I also have the same problem. My installer has a lifetime guarantee so I can always take it back. I am pretty much the only one who notices, but it bothers me enough to take it back at some point. Probably sooner than later.


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