To Spacer or not to Spacer? That is the question...Opinions Needed!
05-03-11, 07:11 PM
#32
scrdstr your setup looks similar to mine with no spacers ESP thet front. Hard to tell on the back but we are close.
10/15 sounds like a safe bet, but now my head is spinning about the studs! I def don't want to be sawing studs off in my garage. I have a hard enough time trimming the bushes LOL
10/15 sounds like a safe bet, but now my head is spinning about the studs! I def don't want to be sawing studs off in my garage. I have a hard enough time trimming the bushes LOL
05-05-11, 04:28 PM
#33
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scrdstr your setup looks similar to mine with no spacers ESP thet front. Hard to tell on the back but we are close.
10/15 sounds like a safe bet, but now my head is spinning about the studs! I def don't want to be sawing studs off in my garage. I have a hard enough time trimming the bushes LOL
10/15 sounds like a safe bet, but now my head is spinning about the studs! I def don't want to be sawing studs off in my garage. I have a hard enough time trimming the bushes LOL
05-05-11, 06:30 PM
#34
scrdstr your setup looks similar to mine with no spacers ESP thet front. Hard to tell on the back but we are close.
10/15 sounds like a safe bet, but now my head is spinning about the studs! I def don't want to be sawing studs off in my garage. I have a hard enough time trimming the bushes LOL
10/15 sounds like a safe bet, but now my head is spinning about the studs! I def don't want to be sawing studs off in my garage. I have a hard enough time trimming the bushes LOL
Until scrdstr posts the actual specs of his rims, I do not know his wheel fitment based on 235/35/20 with rim offset 38mm.
My guess is he is running 8.5"+38 all around.
That means your front (8.5"+32) is already more aggressive than his by at least 6mm since your 245 tire is also wider than his 235.
If his sc430 is lower than yours, he would have less room for wheel spacers.
If you lower your sc too much, even stock wheels will rub.
Not to mention 20" with over spec tires. It is just a matter of where it would rub.
Some tire rubbing at wheel well lining is considered normal for lowered cars with aggressive wheel fitment, as long as not hitting directly at fenders, your car should be fine.
That is an additional price you have to pay along with tire camber wear.
You can probably just use 5mm without replacing oem studs in the front to save you lots of headache.
Some people say it is safe up to 7mm.
Last edited by talwang; 05-06-11 at 12:23 AM.
05-06-11, 09:39 AM
#35
JM2C:
I agree with Talwang on using the existing stud bolt, I would do it AS LONG AS you have at least 6 threads (by design, 3 threads will offer the same strength, so you are already 2x factor), means the lugnut will turn 5 times after it engages the stud. Whether you can get away with 7mm, that's TBD. 5mm definitely no issues.
The stud bolt is an M12 right?. I will do some research on the pitch of the thread.
I agree with Talwang on using the existing stud bolt, I would do it AS LONG AS you have at least 6 threads (by design, 3 threads will offer the same strength, so you are already 2x factor), means the lugnut will turn 5 times after it engages the stud. Whether you can get away with 7mm, that's TBD. 5mm definitely no issues.
The stud bolt is an M12 right?. I will do some research on the pitch of the thread.
05-06-11, 09:47 AM
#36
Here's the calculation:
Stud is M12 x 1.5: means 1.5 mm pitch. One turn gets you 1.5 mm distance.
Therefore:
Spacer 5mm/1.5= 3.4 turns. Add 6 to 3.4 = 9.4 turns, say 10.
Spacer 7mm/1.5= 4.7 turns. Add 6 to 4.7 = 10.7 turns, say 11.
Here's the test:
When you remove the stud: Count how many turns before it falls of. If you can exceed 11 turns, you are good to go. Again this is reference only. I would do it but can not suggest or recommend anybody to follow it.
Other Mechanical Engineers chime in.
Good luck.
Stud is M12 x 1.5: means 1.5 mm pitch. One turn gets you 1.5 mm distance.
Therefore:
Spacer 5mm/1.5= 3.4 turns. Add 6 to 3.4 = 9.4 turns, say 10.
Spacer 7mm/1.5= 4.7 turns. Add 6 to 4.7 = 10.7 turns, say 11.
Here's the test:
When you remove the stud: Count how many turns before it falls of. If you can exceed 11 turns, you are good to go. Again this is reference only. I would do it but can not suggest or recommend anybody to follow it.
Other Mechanical Engineers chime in.
Good luck.
05-06-11, 09:48 AM
#37
Talwang's statement below seems to be accurate:
You can probably just use 5mm without replacing oem studs in the front to save you lots of headache.
Some people say it is safe up to 7mm.
You can probably just use 5mm without replacing oem studs in the front to save you lots of headache.
Some people say it is safe up to 7mm.
05-06-11, 05:22 PM
#38
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When scrdstr said he was running the same size as you on the front, I thought he was running 8.5" +20.
Until scrdstr posts the actual specs of his rims, I do not know his wheel fitment based on 235/35/20 with rim offset 38mm.
My guess is he is running 8.5"+38 all around.
That means your front (8.5"+32) is already more aggressive than his by at least 6mm since your 245 tire is also wider than his 235.
If his sc430 is lower than yours, he would have less room for wheel spacers.
If you lower your sc too much, even stock wheels will rub.
Not to mention 20" with over spec tires. It is just a matter of where it would rub.
Some tire rubbing at wheel well lining is considered normal for lowered cars with aggressive wheel fitment, as long as not hitting directly at fenders, your car should be fine.
That is an additional price you have to pay along with tire camber wear.
You can probably just use 5mm without replacing oem studs in the front to save you lots of headache.
Some people say it is safe up to 7mm.
Until scrdstr posts the actual specs of his rims, I do not know his wheel fitment based on 235/35/20 with rim offset 38mm.
My guess is he is running 8.5"+38 all around.
That means your front (8.5"+32) is already more aggressive than his by at least 6mm since your 245 tire is also wider than his 235.
If his sc430 is lower than yours, he would have less room for wheel spacers.
If you lower your sc too much, even stock wheels will rub.
Not to mention 20" with over spec tires. It is just a matter of where it would rub.
Some tire rubbing at wheel well lining is considered normal for lowered cars with aggressive wheel fitment, as long as not hitting directly at fenders, your car should be fine.
That is an additional price you have to pay along with tire camber wear.
You can probably just use 5mm without replacing oem studs in the front to save you lots of headache.
Some people say it is safe up to 7mm.
05-06-11, 07:15 PM
#39
Here's the calculation:
Stud is M12 x 1.5: means 1.5 mm pitch. One turn gets you 1.5 mm distance.
Therefore:
Spacer 5mm/1.5= 3.4 turns. Add 6 to 3.4 = 9.4 turns, say 10.
Spacer 7mm/1.5= 4.7 turns. Add 6 to 4.7 = 10.7 turns, say 11.
Here's the test:
When you remove the stud: Count how many turns before it falls of. If you can exceed 11 turns, you are good to go. Again this is reference only. I would do it but can not suggest or recommend anybody to follow it.
Other Mechanical Engineers chime in.
Good luck.
Stud is M12 x 1.5: means 1.5 mm pitch. One turn gets you 1.5 mm distance.
Therefore:
Spacer 5mm/1.5= 3.4 turns. Add 6 to 3.4 = 9.4 turns, say 10.
Spacer 7mm/1.5= 4.7 turns. Add 6 to 4.7 = 10.7 turns, say 11.
Here's the test:
When you remove the stud: Count how many turns before it falls of. If you can exceed 11 turns, you are good to go. Again this is reference only. I would do it but can not suggest or recommend anybody to follow it.
Other Mechanical Engineers chime in.
Good luck.
(15-11) x 1.5 = 6mm
(16-11) x 1.5 = 7mm so 7mm is about right on.
You are correct I am running 8,5 +38 all way around sry for the confusion I should have looked closer and his wheel specs and less at the pic lol!! but his front setup looks very close to mine, just goes to show you how pics can be decieving. I would like to try 5mm spacers and see how they work.
scdroptop's wheel setup is not very conservative, so he can leave it as is. imho.
I just found out he is running 285 on 9.5" not 275, so he has less wiggle room for 15mm spacers.
10mm spacers may be better for his rear wheels.
Your 8.5" +38 with 20mm spacers is more aggressive than his rear 9.5" +35 by 4mm.
After he installs 10mm spacers on his rear wheels, his rear setup will be pushed out 6mm more than yours.
05-07-11, 10:40 PM
#41
Consider you may need to cut your stock studs, 10mm bolt-on spacers for your wheels are not the best option plus you need more tolerance for tire rubbing at wheel well lining.
5mm in the front will give you less headache overall.
15mm in the rear may be too much for your 285 tires.
10mm is out of question, so 5mm in the rear as well.
However, running 5mm wheel spacers will get you in trouble at discount tire stores.
5mm in the front will give you less headache overall.
15mm in the rear may be too much for your 285 tires.
10mm is out of question, so 5mm in the rear as well.
However, running 5mm wheel spacers will get you in trouble at discount tire stores.
05-10-11, 06:47 AM
#42
11-11-13, 03:49 AM
#44
Advice from the CL Oracles
My aftermarket wheels are +35 offset all around. That is +10 offset from the OEM +45. I plan to put 25mm hubcentric bolt on spacers on the rear bringing the total offset to +35.
I do not plan to add spacers to the front as they are already +10 by the wheel and any spacer thinner than 25 is a slip on and not a bolt on as I do not want to change the studs.
I have stock suspension.
Are there any concerns with ride, tire wear, safety (etc.) with this setup?
Any advise is greatly appreciated.
I do not plan to add spacers to the front as they are already +10 by the wheel and any spacer thinner than 25 is a slip on and not a bolt on as I do not want to change the studs.
I have stock suspension.
Are there any concerns with ride, tire wear, safety (etc.) with this setup?
Any advise is greatly appreciated.
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