WIL44

You are more than welcome nktuner, if I can be of any more help please ask on the forum or PM me. I have lots more photo's.
Good luck, it is not difficult, but be sure to follow poqman's post to remove the trunk linings, that's the hardest part. The side panels that cover the damper bolts are a bit tricky, need a bit of 'wiggling' to get them out. When I recently converted to air I cut a 4"1/2" hole in them, so that I will not need to take them out in the future.

Best regards
Steve

Poqman

One of the decision's you have to make is how to provide access to the rear coilover adjustments. Make sure you mark the center of the shock location from below before removing the trunk interior. I drilled a 1-1/2" diameter hole, bought a metal plug and drilled it for the adjustment **** and then painted it all grey. Here's how my turned out.





Good luck on your project!

Z3NK1

iTrader: (2)

^^ wow that's clean, nice work

WIL44

Very smart job poqman, I decided to cut bigger holes so that I can remove the dampers without disturbing the linings, but I have not found anything to cover the 4"1/2" holes yet. I am sure I will find or make something, but can't see it being as clean as your job.

Best regards
Steve

nktuner

Hi All,
Thank you for all the advise !
Will pm or post if i start to do the replace.
Thank You !

BCT

This is probably dumb question. I have camber bolt about half way out, but then it just spins and spins without getting out further. Is the bolt threaded all the way to the end? Or the middle part of the bolt is smooth/without thread, so then I just need to pull it out? I do not want to just try to pull out the bolt and break something else in the process.

WIL44

Hi BCT
Its just a standard bolt threaded at one end. Probably just corrosion holding it back. Easiest way is to gently punch it out with a smaller diameter bolt or a punch. Also may help to take the weight of the hub off the bolt with another jack.
Cheers
Steve

mandyfig

Hello Steve, long time no hear! How everything across the pond?

WIL44

Hi Mandy
Good to hear from you.
All good over here, waiting for summer to arrive!!
Just noticed you have made 10,000 posts, my goodness.
Hope all is good with you and your family.
Cheers
Steve

BCT

How long did you guys drive around with the new Megan coilovers to get it settle down before having an alignment? The reason I asked is because on my passenger side, the camber bolt do not have the nut. Not sure why, I am guessing either it fell out or some dumb tech took it off and never put it back on. I ordered a new nut from the local dealer (pretty expensive for nut), but obviously my camber is really messed up. I was planning to drive it around a bit to settle the new coilovers, but do not want to messed up my tires.

digitatc

The installation guide is excellent so I'm making a PDF out of all the pictures to make it easier for people to print out while also adding the torque specs for all the related components.
Full credit to WIL44 since he did all the hard works.

WIL44

This is excellent digitatc, thank you. I would not have thought of putting it together like that. Brilliant, makes me want to do it all over again lol.

RC51

Nice job and documentation. Thanks for this!!

Andreiu

No need for an alignment if you remove from the inside bolt in the rear and you leave the front lca attached and keep about same ride height if anyone is just replacing shocks or sways or keeping oem height on your coilovers.




​​

RC51

[QUOTE=Andreiu;11022110]No need for an alignment if you remove from the inside bolt in the rear and you leave the front lca attached and keep about same ride height if anyone is just replacing shocks or sways or keeping oem height on your coilovers.



Thank you, I had been contemplating exactly this. Much appreciated.