Lexiss_sc430

iTrader: (2)

Hello CL,

Well I have known my transmission mount was shot a few months ago, and a month ago I felt like the engine mounts were beginning to give out also. The other night I hit a series of 3 huge pot holes, one after another. It was so bad that I thought the wheels would be bent and there would be possible body damage... don’t ask stupid LA streets After pulling over and checking the car everything seemed normal, wheels fine, looked over the suspension components I could see thru the spokes and from underneath and everything looked fine. I started her back up and she drive perfectly, no pulling, wobbling, ect ect............ that was until I hit a small pothole and I heard a loud thump.

The thump only happens when you go over a crack, pothole, or a low spot in the road. Oddly enough on the freeway (65+) the car makes no such noise even when you hit dips and raised sections.

Long story short I had the car up on jacks and checked everything, the coils, LCA's, UCA's, bushings, sway bars, ect ect.

Then I attempted to start the car and test to see if the mounts had gone. As I break torqued I could see the engine lift about 2-3 inches, and a much quieter similar thump sound was made during my test.

So I'm let to believe that it’s my motor mounts, I’m guessing the rubber has completely failed allowing metal to metal contact.
I ordered a set of OEM Mounts for $190 bucks. Can’t wait till they get in, I feel like I'm damaging the car more and more when I drive

talwang

iTrader: (4)

You should post a DIY thread as I believe you are not the only one that has the issue.

Service Slants

Tom Rosario
Motor

Jan 31, 2007 19:00 EST

Lexus

Engine vibration. Some 2002-04 SC 430 coupes may produce a vibration from the engine when the vehicle is in gear and stationary. According to Lexus, the problem is most likely caused by a prematurely worn engine mount stabilizer and/or engine mount insulator, but dissipates once the engine is under load above idle.

If a visual inspection reveals cracketl or torn rubber at either mount, replace both the stabilizer and insulator with sturdier, redesigned units (Part Nos. 12381-50140 and 12361-50151, respectively). Coupes built at or after VLN JTHFN4#Y#4()056830 already have had the upgraded mounts installed on the assembly line.

Lexiss_sc430

iTrader: (2)

Update:

After I got all the parts in I began working on the car this past Thursday. I started around 3:00 pm, removed the plastic underbody shield, and got a good look at what I was facing.
There are two lower bolts that you need to access that are on the cross member. These are the bottom bolts for the engine mounts. You will see a plastic black cap over an oval hole towards the ends of the cross member, pop these off and you will see the bolts (17mm). Then for the driver’s side you need to loosen the bolt that keeps the oil dipstick in place, the bolt is accessible from the top of the engine and can be loosened with a 12mm basic socket. I didn’t remove the dipstick, once I had removed the bolt there was a good amount of play in the shaft. Next is the hard part, There are four bolts holding the other top side of the motor mount to the engine. The rear two bolts that the front top bolt will come out without a problem, you will just need a 14mm socket and an flexible socket to reach them. The lower front (closest to the cross member and also the front of the car) will be a pain in the ***. I had to grind down one of my 14mm sockets so I would be able to get in there without stripping the bolt. Once the screws were a little loose I placed a jack under the oil pan (I put a piece of wood between the oil pan and the jack, so the jacks lifting force would be evenly distributed throughout the pan and not concentrated on one spot). I placed the second jack right under the bell housing of the transmission. I slowly began to lift them up until both the engine and tranny were positioned in a way that I could remove the mounts. 3-4 inches of lift I would say, just be careful not to break or damage anything
The passenger side mount can be finessed out from a opening towards the rear of the car, now the driver’s side gave me a hard time so I removed the oil filter in order to be able to remove the mount.
Once out you can remove the one 17mm bolt that is attaching the top side of the motor mount to the base and reinstall the hardware on the new unit. For the installation pretty much reverse everything you did, start with tightening the 17mm bolt that holds the top base bracket on, then reinstall the 4 bolts that mount to the engine. Make sure the lower mount tabs fall into the appropriate holes on the cross member. (*****Now I do not recommend tightening the lower two bolts for the motor mounts until you have lowered the engine back down. This is to limit the stress on the mounts and not to over exert them before you even finish the install.***** ) Once I was done with the four top bolts I just began on the transmission mount since the engine and tranny was still being held up by the jacks. This mount is very simple, just remove the (4) outer bolts on the steel transmission brace, then the (4) inner nuts that are located on the same brace. Then once that is outta the way remove the (4) last top bolts and the transmission mount should come right off. Reverse process for installation. Once the trans mount was done I lowered the trans and the engine then tightened the lower (2) motor mount bolts on each side, snapped on the black cover and was back in business!!!!!!!!

This job took me about 4-5 hours and it was a P I T A, I probably will never do it again and rather have my mechanic handle it but it was worth a try and I was very happy with the results.

Now as for that clunk I was experiencing I was reading up on the fact that we have a service bulletin out for a clunk in the front suspension. After reading that I went out to find that 3 out of the 4 sway bar bolts were loose to the touch!! I tightened up the bolts and the car is like new again, no more clunk, thump, vibration of any kind
Front stabilizer bar-abnormal noise on turns/bumps. Fix: adjust bolt tightening torque of the mounting hardware. TSB SU003-02

TooCoolSC

Glad to hear all is well, Tommy.

WLD_OTZ

Thank you for this post!

I changed my wife's mounts on her 02 SC last night, and I used every bit of yoiur advise. The only thing possible I can add is to buy a 3/8" drive 6-point 14mm universal socket that is very short. My wife went to Craftsman to get one after the left forward lower bolt just about kicked my azz... Put that socket onto about a 12" extension and that'll get those tight lilttle bolts loose!

Thanks again! You helped us save over $600 from the dealer!

Cheers, John

Lexiss_sc430

iTrader: (2)

Glad to hear I could help

Silvermtb6

What torque value did you use on the sway bars?