How do you change a tail/brake light on a 2003 SC430
07-20-17, 10:55 AM
#31
Lexus Test Driver
Thanks Bgw70, that explains why the dash light remains on. It thinks the bulb is out. I really like the light output from the LED bulb so I am going to purchase a couple of load resisters for each tail light and install. Is there a recommended wattage for the resistor? Thanks
i found mine on eBay...around $10 for the pack.
07-21-17, 02:48 PM
#33
We've tried the resistors with LED bulbs in tail lights. The link below Caseone tied to use same concept with LED rings. Didn't work out. If you do not use the resistors with LED bulbs you get the light on the dash. If you use the resistor with the bulbs it would trip a fault and the tail light function would fail (but there would be no dash light error- guy driving. behind me told me that my tail lights weren't illuminated with the headlights but stop lights would indicate when i was braking). Brakes still responded but the night tail light function stopped working. I would have to battery disconnect the car, remove the resistor, reconnect battery. Then the tail light function would return. Read more here...
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc4...and-video.html
But if you find a way, please let us know. I got exhausted after trying for about two days to get the tail light function back and avoid the dash light error. Caseone tried different ohm load resistors and so on with very complicated electrical equations to find the right ohm resistance. He got exhausted too and bailed on the angel eyes project after they burned out on him
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc4...and-video.html
But if you find a way, please let us know. I got exhausted after trying for about two days to get the tail light function back and avoid the dash light error. Caseone tried different ohm load resistors and so on with very complicated electrical equations to find the right ohm resistance. He got exhausted too and bailed on the angel eyes project after they burned out on him
Last edited by ShawnOk; 07-21-17 at 03:06 PM.
07-25-17, 08:58 PM
#34
Driver School Candidate
I installed Pep Boy load resistors across the Green/White (Brake Light) and White/Black (Ground) Wires and the dash light indicator remained lit. I also tried installing the resistor across the Green (Running Light) and White/Black (Ground) Wires and also the dash light indicator remained lit. So I gave up and purchased replacement 7443 incandescent bulbs and all is working fine. I will post pictures of the tail light removed for those that need to replace a burned out taillight / brake light bulb. If others have a solution for installing the LED brake light bulb, I'd be much appreciative to learn about that
07-25-17, 09:02 PM
#35
Driver School Candidate
07-26-17, 08:38 AM
#36
Go and put tape over the light on the instrument cluster, no more light. That’s what I did when I switched over to the LED lights.
07-26-17, 07:08 PM
#37
Lexus Test Driver
I installed Pep Boy load resistors across the Green/White (Brake Light) and White/Black (Ground) Wires and the dash light indicator remained lit. I also tried installing the resistor across the Green (Running Light) and White/Black (Ground) Wires and also the dash light indicator remained lit. So I gave up and purchased replacement 7443 incandescent bulbs and all is working fine. I will post pictures of the tail light removed for those that need to replace a burned out taillight / brake light bulb. If others have a solution for installing the LED brake light bulb, I'd be much appreciative to learn about that
07-27-17, 06:17 AM
#38
lol to make things worse with the LR3, when it shows a brake light out you can't take it out of park. I always have a two pack of bulbs in the glovebox. I've never had one burn out though. I understand there were a few years when some Chevrolet trucks were that way too.
07-27-17, 06:44 AM
#39
Sorry to interject here and I hate to be the soggy towel but I feel like you guys are wasting your time. We really went in depth trying all options possible out there. Caseone measured the resistance in multiple bulbs across multiple brands, I tried about 4 different sets of load resistors and the end result was the same; either the dash light stayed illuminated or as with MY 2002, it shorted out the ECU causing me to lose the night time function of the tail light. As for the turn signals (front and rear), they do make a Canbus that prevents the hyperflashing. Unfortunately, the diameter is larger than the OEM and thus you will have to trim one of the flaps on the inner side of the bulb housing. I don't mean to be a pessimist, but believe me after dedicating so much time and trips to auto stores all over the area to try different bulbs and resistors, would hate for you to waste your time and money doing the same.
In the end, I recommend to save up (time and money) and set up an alert for the rear tail lights on eBay. I got a full set for $500 from NY, brand new. Then I covered the dash light with tape. I'm always on the lookout for the light ECU but until then, I'm happy.
In the end, I recommend to save up (time and money) and set up an alert for the rear tail lights on eBay. I got a full set for $500 from NY, brand new. Then I covered the dash light with tape. I'm always on the lookout for the light ECU but until then, I'm happy.
Last edited by ShawnOk; 07-27-17 at 06:52 AM.
07-27-17, 06:53 AM
#40
Sorry to interject here and I hate to be the soggy towel but I feel like you guys are wasting your time. We really went in depth trying all options possible out there. Caseone measured the resistance in multiple bulbs across multiple brands, I tried about 4 different sets of load resistors and the end result was the same; either the dash light stayed illuminated or as with MY 2002, it shorted out the ECU causing me to lose the night time function of the tail light. As for the turn signals (front and rear), they do make a Canbus that prevents the hyperflashing. Unfortunately, the diameter is larger than the OEM and thus you will have to trim one of the flaps on the inner side of the bulb housing. I don't mean to be a pessimist, but believe me after dedicating so much time and trips to auto stores all over the area to try different bulbs and resistors, would hate for you to waste your time and money doing the same.
07-27-17, 07:52 AM
#41
Lexus Test Driver
Sorry to interject here and I hate to be the soggy towel but I feel like you guys are wasting your time. We really went in depth trying all options possible out there. Caseone measured the resistance in multiple bulbs across multiple brands, I tried about 4 different sets of load resistors and the end result was the same; either the dash light stayed illuminated or as with MY 2002, it shorted out the ECU causing me to lose the night time function of the tail light. As for the turn signals (front and rear), they do make a Canbus that prevents the hyperflashing. Unfortunately, the diameter is larger than the OEM and thus you will have to trim one of the flaps on the inner side of the bulb housing. I don't mean to be a pessimist, but believe me after dedicating so much time and trips to auto stores all over the area to try different bulbs and resistors, would hate for you to waste your time and money doing the same.
In the end, I recommend to save up (time and money) and set up an alert for the rear tail lights on eBay. I got a full set for $500 from NY, brand new. Then I covered the dash light with tape. I'm always on the lookout for the light ECU but until then, I'm happy.
In the end, I recommend to save up (time and money) and set up an alert for the rear tail lights on eBay. I got a full set for $500 from NY, brand new. Then I covered the dash light with tape. I'm always on the lookout for the light ECU but until then, I'm happy.
i read the thread again and he said the load resistors worked but the angel eyes would flicker or they were dim and he thought heat or the lack of a voltage regulator destroyed them.
i only saw where 6ohm load resistors were used.
or did I miss the post where the load resistors would not work?
did anyone try 5,4 or 3 Ohm resistors?
07-29-17, 06:14 AM
#42
Moderator
Sorry to interject here and I hate to be the soggy towel but I feel like you guys are wasting your time. We really went in depth trying all options possible out there. Caseone measured the resistance in multiple bulbs across multiple brands, I tried about 4 different sets of load resistors and the end result was the same; either the dash light stayed illuminated or as with MY 2002, it shorted out the ECU causing me to lose the night time function of the tail light. As for the turn signals (front and rear), they do make a Canbus that prevents the hyperflashing. Unfortunately, the diameter is larger than the OEM and thus you will have to trim one of the flaps on the inner side of the bulb housing. I don't mean to be a pessimist, but believe me after dedicating so much time and trips to auto stores all over the area to try different bulbs and resistors, would hate for you to waste your time and money doing the same.
In the end, I recommend to save up (time and money) and set up an alert for the rear tail lights on eBay. I got a full set for $500 from NY, brand new. Then I covered the dash light with tape. I'm always on the lookout for the light ECU but until then, I'm happy.
In the end, I recommend to save up (time and money) and set up an alert for the rear tail lights on eBay. I got a full set for $500 from NY, brand new. Then I covered the dash light with tape. I'm always on the lookout for the light ECU but until then, I'm happy.
04-30-20, 12:28 AM
#43
Driver School Candidate
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Rear indicator housing
That's not true. Another member and I took on a huge testing of the lighting system. Search for Angel Eyes Brake Lights for the thread. The dash error light will illuminate with any change to the stop or tail light to LED, sometimes after a few minutes of driving once the brake pedal is pressed. Blinkers never triggered the dash light BUT did lead to hyperflashing. There is a product for blinkers called Error Free that I use but I did have to alter the plastic housing of the tail lights. I had to break out the 'cup' inside the bulb holder since the error free bulb is taller than OEM bulb.
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