06 Tail light install with PICS
11-30-05, 08:32 PM
#31
shameful enough, i was too lazy to change it, but apparently it's not *that* hard. basically you take off the "cover" on both sides of the engine bay and you just do it by feel. that's the only way to do it unless you wanna take off everything. i am not sure if i can reach for the side bulbs though, i will try it later on (especially if we can confirm on the 168 bulb type)
i got my philips 6000k used, 175 bucks. new ones for 225 that's cheap already, usually they are around 250 bucks i think. don't get anything else except philips or osram. other stuff are junk
and come to think about it i should adjust my headlightleveling as well....
i got my philips 6000k used, 175 bucks. new ones for 225 that's cheap already, usually they are around 250 bucks i think. don't get anything else except philips or osram. other stuff are junk
and come to think about it i should adjust my headlightleveling as well....
12-01-05, 02:35 PM
#32
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It looks like a quartz projector lamp..... but they tack the leads to the harness. You have to remove the fog lamp to get the bulb assembly out. It is on a spring type lock mount that does not just come out when you twist the lock.....it is "spring mounted". I have seen a similar type of mount on a Q45 I had. They have definetly made it a "dealer only" part.
To ease access to the fog-lamp, it is best to pull the front wheel off as well....which is another problem. The floor jack I have is not low enough (and it is about as low as you can get) to access to a good point to jack the car up... and I HATE using the jack in the trunk. I may end up modifying one of my floor jacks to simulate the "notch" that the truck jack has to utilize the factory jack points. I was lucky as the car slipped of the jack stand when I tried to use one a part of the lower fram to raise the car.....dented the oil pan, but no holes.... THANK GOD, but I was holding my breath!!!!
NICE430
To ease access to the fog-lamp, it is best to pull the front wheel off as well....which is another problem. The floor jack I have is not low enough (and it is about as low as you can get) to access to a good point to jack the car up... and I HATE using the jack in the trunk. I may end up modifying one of my floor jacks to simulate the "notch" that the truck jack has to utilize the factory jack points. I was lucky as the car slipped of the jack stand when I tried to use one a part of the lower fram to raise the car.....dented the oil pan, but no holes.... THANK GOD, but I was holding my breath!!!!
NICE430
12-01-05, 03:46 PM
#33
Originally Posted by rominl
i got my philips 6000k used, 175 bucks. new ones for 225 that's cheap already, usually they are around 250 bucks i think. don't get anything else except philips or osram. other stuff are junk
But don't think they are that bad tho....
12-05-05, 07:19 PM
#35
Update
Just an update folks, if you are thinking of removing the bulb from the dash-forget it. There is no bulb-not a single one-in the dash instrument cluster. All LED's. Good for longevity though. 
Now all is not lost, a piece of small electrical tape .5"x.5" can be placed BEHIND the black speedo face to cover the out buld indicator. This is behind it so no tape will be visible once everything is put back. Just blackness.
Now the wiring diagram does show a ECU that the rear lights plug into. I will check into further in terms of price, location, etc...
Now all is not lost, a piece of small electrical tape .5"x.5" can be placed BEHIND the black speedo face to cover the out buld indicator. This is behind it so no tape will be visible once everything is put back. Just blackness.
Now the wiring diagram does show a ECU that the rear lights plug into. I will check into further in terms of price, location, etc...
12-07-05, 06:52 AM
#37
Originally Posted by Pearlpower
Just an update folks, if you are thinking of removing the bulb from the dash-forget it. There is no bulb-not a single one-in the dash instrument cluster. All LED's. Good for longevity though.
Now all is not lost, a piece of small electrical tape .5"x.5" can be placed BEHIND the black speedo face to cover the out buld indicator. This is behind it so no tape will be visible once everything is put back. Just blackness.
Now the wiring diagram does show a ECU that the rear lights plug into. I will check into further in terms of price, location, etc...
Now all is not lost, a piece of small electrical tape .5"x.5" can be placed BEHIND the black speedo face to cover the out buld indicator. This is behind it so no tape will be visible once everything is put back. Just blackness.
Now the wiring diagram does show a ECU that the rear lights plug into. I will check into further in terms of price, location, etc...
So your using a load resistor to keep the light from coming on but it gets too hot
, have your tried using a higher resistor or even a diode? Could you just cut the wire and tap it into another wire thats of the same voltage or current.Also you could also put the resistors on a board and just make a little plastic box for it and shove it behind the pannels.
Just trying to think of a way
01-04-06, 12:32 PM
#40
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what was the load resistors value? I am going to try a 6ohm/50 watt load resistor for each side. I'm going to use 3M stochlock in parallel intead of splicing it.
Last edited by 05SC28; 01-04-06 at 01:47 PM.
01-04-06, 03:44 PM
#42
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Folks,
I am an EE (no longer practicing), but until someone gets a schematic of the actual warning box, it is going to be very difficult to determine how to resolve this. Adding load resistors is simply not an efficient way to resolve this, and may actually cause the LED's to dim.
The best method so far, as Peal has indicated, is to blank-out the dash LED with tape, or figure out which LED it is an de-solder it from the dash board panel.
NICE430
I am an EE (no longer practicing), but until someone gets a schematic of the actual warning box, it is going to be very difficult to determine how to resolve this.
Adding load resistors is simply not an efficient way to resolve this, and may actually cause the LED's to dim.The best method so far, as Peal has indicated, is to blank-out the dash LED with tape, or figure out which LED it is an de-solder it from the dash board panel.
NICE430
01-04-06, 04:00 PM
#43
well from lee's experiment, the load resistors definitely dim down the led taillights, which was what i predicted. so yes, if someone can get the schematic we can find a way to bypass, but i wonder if the repair manual has this? lee, it's back to you again!
lee, it's back to you again!
01-05-06, 06:08 AM
#44
uk tail lights
hi guys, just ordered the new style lights from lexus in the uk, the parts people dont know jack. tried to fob me off by saying that it the upgrade wont work. still ordered the lights thou, will take about 2 weeks to come, so its down to lee now to find a way to bypass warning.
Hey any of you know what the 16 wires on the back of the speedo are for?
Hey any of you know what the 16 wires on the back of the speedo are for?
01-05-06, 06:33 AM
#45
man I want to get the manual too but not sure if I would get use out of it for $150, now the manual on microfich is only like $25. If anyone has one of these readers/printers and wants to print me out an entire manual I'll buy it and u can keep the microfich