LSchino

Thank you for the info texsexlex! Once i lowered my vehicle, I will eventually need my fenders to be rolled and maybe pulled too with the aggressive specs I have.

SBJohn

I'm a new owner of a 2003 SC430 (and it's my 1st post!). It has the original chrome wheels and they need to be replaced. Saw some TSW 18x8 JJ wheels that would be a reasonable and immediate upgrade. They are from a Lexus SUV, I assume an RX, since the wheel pattern is 5x114.3. Offset is +35mm. Not sure what the JJ means - will these be a good fit for my SC430? Can I use the existing P245/40R18 tires? Thanks.

texsexlex

iTrader: (3)

...I can't recall what the JJ means,but do remember seeing those letters stamped on wheels. The 18x8 will be a fit without any issues, double check to make sure that they are 5x114.3....if so, then they should bolt right on. Also check the hub bore, if larger than the Sc, you should buy a set of hubrings to help eliminate any vibrations....the 245/40/18 tires will work also

Bgw70

Google is your friend...
http://www.carbibles.com/tyre_bible_pg4.html

JJ, K, JK, B, P AND D : TYRE BEAD PROFILES / RIM CONTOUR DESIGNATIONS.
[beadprofile]
No, my keyboard letters weren't stuck down when I typed this. The letter that typically sits between the rim width and diameter figures stamped on the wheel, and indicates the physical shape of the wheel where the tyre bead meets it. In the cross-section on the left you can see the area highlighted in red.
Like so many topics, the answer as to which letter represents which profile is a long and complicated one. Common wisdom has it that the letter represents the shape. ie. "J" means the bead profile is the shape of the letter "J". Not so, although "J" is the most common profile identifier. 4x4 vehicles often have "JJ" wheels. Jaguar vehicles (especially older ones) have "K" profile wheels. Some of the very old VW Beetles had "P" and "B" profile wheels.
Anyway the reason it is an "awkward topic to find definitive data on" is very apparent if you've ever looked at Standards Manual of the European Tyre and Rim Technical Organisation. It is extremely hard to follow! There are pages and pages (64 in total) on wheel contours and bead profiles alone, including dimensions for every type of wheel you can think of (and many you can't) with at least a dozen tabled dimensions for each. Casually looking through the manual is enough to send you to sleep. Looking at it with some concentration is enough to make your brain run out of your ears. To try to boil it all down for you, it seems that they divide up the rim into different sections and have various codes to describe the geometry of each area. For example, the "J" code makes up the "Rim Contour" and specifies rim contour dimensions in a single category of rims called "Code 10 to 26 on 5deg. Drop-Centre Rims". To give you some idea of just how complex / **** this process is, I've recreated one such diagram with Photoshop here to try to put you off the scent.
A reproduction of an ETRTO diagram describing rim contour design
From the tables present in this manual, the difference in dimensions between "J" and "B" rims is mainly due to the shape of the rim flange. This is the part in the diagram defined by the R radius and B and Pmin parameters. Hence my somewhat simpler description : tyre bead profiles.
Note that in my example, the difference between "J" and "B" rims is small but not negligible. This area of rim-to-tyre interface is very critical. Very small changes in a tyre's bead profile make large differences in mounting pressures and rim slip.
"A" and "D" contour designations come under the category of "Cycles, Motorcycles, and Scooters" but also show up in the "Industrial Vehicles and Lift Trucks" category. Naturally, the contours have completely different geometry for the same designation in two different categories.
The "S", "T", "V" and "W" contour designation codes fall into the "Commercial Vehicles, Flat Base Rims" category. The "E", "F", "G" and "H" codes fall into the "Commercial Vehicles, Semi-Drop Centre Rims" category. Are you beginning to see just how complex this all is?

I think the best thing for you, dear reader, is a general rule-of-thumb, and it is this : if your wheels are stamped 5J15 and you buy 5K15 tyres, rest assured they absolutely won't fit.

ryogtr

Rims: 20" Yokohama Advan Racing GT (F-9.5J,R-10.5)
Tires: Yokohama V105 F:255/30-20 R:285/30-20
Need some rolling on Rear fender.
I have not lowing my SC because I drive it to work everyday.
Cheers

Topdown2

I have found a nice set of wheels that I would like to put on my 08 SC430, but all these numbers are baffling to me. The GS350 wheels are 18" but I cannot find any other specs on them. Does anyone know if these will be a direct replacement for my OEM SC430 wheels? I do not want to have to do a lot pof modifications...just want to put my tires on these new wheels. Thanks in advance Jerry

texsexlex

iTrader: (3)

...hey Jerry make sure the bolt/lug pattern is the same, if so, they should bolt right on. Also check the hub bore, if they are the same, then they will bolt up & shouldn't have any vibrations in the wheel. If the hub bore is different, then I would suggest buying hub rings, this insures the proper centering of the wheel onto the hub....hope this helps some

T8LEX

iTrader: (2)

So I have been trying to do all my due diligence looking for wheels. I have been searching for a style that I like as well as where to buy for a good price and service. So after all the research that I have done I found the wheel that I like. So now I was searching for a place to buy. I came across CARiD with the best price for the wheels and tire package. After reading a bunch of online reviews here and elsewhere I am seeing that they are terrible at delivering said products and often deliver months later with incorrect parts and terrible return policies. So I found another vendor online and I was almost about to pull the trigger on the purchase and they told me that I cant get that model because it wont clear the sc430 calipers. I am wondering how much stock to put into what they are telling me. These are the model and specs on the wheels any help I could get with this would be GREATLY appreciated!!
Front: TSW® - SNETTERTON Hyper Silver with Mirror Cut Lip (20" x 8.5", +40 Offset, 5x114.3 Bolt Pattern, 76mm Hub)
Rear: TSW® - SNETTERTON Hyper Silver with Mirror Cut Lip (20" x 10", +40 Offset, 5x114.3 Bolt Pattern, 76mm Hub)

texsexlex

iTrader: (3)

...the wheels & offsets will fit just fine, but the 76mm hub is larger than the Sc, which has a 60.1 mm. If you purchase these wheels, make sure that they come with hub rings, to get the correct fit. The hub rings will keep the wheel centered to the hub, which will help eliminate vibration.

T8LEX

iTrader: (2)

[QUOTE=talwang;5663989]I kind of revised the Rominl's wheel fitment guide.
Knowing most members here don't buy custom wheels, it is more practical to show you a range of offsets for a given width that will fit the SC430.

Assume members want a better wheel fitment when they decide to get rid of their oem wheels, so +45 would be the highest offset for any given wheel width below.
When you shop for a new set, try to choose an offest that is close to the lowest number in the specified range in order to get the best fitment.
That is, the LOWER the offset, the MORE aggressive the wheel fitment for a given width.
I keep mentioning width and offset at the same time since both are needed in order to determin the lateral, or side to side, position of the wheel.

The wheel spacer fitment info is added for your reference.
For example, the fitment of 9.5" +30 in the front would look like adding 33mm spacers to your oem wheels while 9.5" +35 would look like adding 33-(35-30)= 28mm spacers.

Also, the setups recommended below should require no fender mods or stretched tires.




Thank you for the reply Texsexlex! So after trying to educate myself on clublexus some more here is my follow up question? Trying to use this helpful chart (Thanks Rominil and Talawang!)

In your opinion would you do with this set up. So the only thing I changed was the offset on the front wheel from + 40 to +20 (+40 & +20 are the only offset options for this wheel) When reading through the Wheel fitment sticky I noticed a lot of people going with the +20 offset on the front wheel) And if I understand this all correctly it would add 25mm in spacing for the front wheel for the +20 and 30mm spacing for the rear wheel (+40) and adding Hub Ring? ( are the hub rings needed a universal size for the SC430?)

(20" x 8.5", +20 Offset, 5x114.3 Bolt Pattern, 76mm Hub)
(20" x 10", +40 Offset, 5x114.3 Bolt Pattern, 76mm Hub)

Thanks in advance for any replies! I really an scared of ordering the wrong wheels that would be a nightmare.

texsexlex

iTrader: (3)

....I would definitely do the +20 offset for the front & if they offer something in the mid 20's offset for the rear, I would go with that also. Most of the guys that have moved up to 20 staggered wheels, have gone with a 20x8.5 +20 (front) & 20x10 +25 (rear).....if you go with the +40 offset & want the rears a little more flush, you could always add a spacer later. You will definitely want to purchase hubrings & you should ask the company (that you purchase the wheels from) if they will provide them, if you buy wheels from them, alot of companies will. If you don't get those, you'll probably experience some type of wheel shake, a if the wheels weren't balanced correctly........2 things that come to mind also, when I was searching for wheels, I looked at a lot of the threads with pictures of Sc's with custom wheels, many of the members will post their offsets/tire sizes & this will help you get a visual of what your stance may look like. Secondly...after you add new wheels with these lower offsets, these wheels won't be as "sunken in" as the factory wheels.If you haven't changed your shocks, you may encounter a little rubbing when hitting dips in the road. I changed my shocks out & the little rubbing that I did experience went away....hope some of this helps & good luck in your search,

T8LEX

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the reply Tex! Okay so I was about to pull the trigger on the 20" with +40 offsets because one of the sales guys from need4speed that I found in the vendor section here on clublexus said that the +20 offset on the front would definitely make them stick out too far. Then I saw your post reply here Tex and am back to being confused again. Trouble is so many vendors giving misinformation ie. "wheels wont fit your sc430", " offsets wont work" that's why I keep coming back here to ask questions. So now I am back to thinking about getting the +20 offsets for the front wheel and the +40 for the rear(only option is +20 & +40) So I am just trying to get more confirmation that the +20 will be okay in the front before I plunk down my CC. And the wheels would be replacing a current set of 20's on coilovers. Any replies would be greatly appreciated !

T8LEX

iTrader: (2)

Okay I pulled the trigger !!! BANG !
20 x 8.5 +20 245/30/20
20 x 10 +25 275/30/20
I will update with pics as soon as I can. Thanks everyone for your help!

Thaidoan

Got pics? Any rubbing? I'm on the same boat

MikeSC430D

In the market for some new wheels and tires, primarily for winter use. After reading your posting I'm getting some bad feelings about the
claims I see on-line from new and used dealers. An example from either the forum or another popular source " Fit all Toyota Cressida Corolla Camry celica mr2 mk3 240sx Nissan 350z g35 Infiniti old school 180sx Kouki zenki jdm rim rims wheels none turbo twin turbo tires tire stock stocks slicks track Nismo Lexus sc sc300 sc400 sc430 is300 is250 is350 gs300 gs400 GS ls ls400 q45 350z 300zx 3000gt GT 3000 TT" So, if there are a set of nice tires and wheels from say a 350z how confident should one be that they will fit my 02 SC430 (without rings, spacers and the like)?