sc400 neutraI safety switch wireing after sc300 w58 manual swap
03-17-14, 05:35 PM
#1
Pole Position
Thread Starter
sc400 neutraI safety switch wireing after sc300 w58 manual swap
Ok ive been hearing all kinds of diffrent things on this can any one help with diagrams for OBD1 sc400 preferd but OBD2 vehicles will help others we need to get rid of the O/D light for OBD1 and check engine for OBD2 is there any other nessicary wireing for the auto trans that need wired also keep in mind up to 94 the harnesses and ecus are diffrent than the 95 the 95s are just one year to themselfs and the 96 and up are diffrent
does any one know what wires are for...
1. Reverse light wires
2. Park wires
3. Low gear wires
4. Second gear wires
5. Third gear wires
6. O/d wires
does any one know what wires are for...
1. Reverse light wires
2. Park wires
3. Low gear wires
4. Second gear wires
5. Third gear wires
6. O/d wires
Last edited by kolessc400; 03-19-14 at 09:04 AM.
03-17-14, 10:41 PM
#2
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Posts: 1,442
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
you don't have to mess with the old gear wiring
nss, jump where the two yellow spots are (2 black wires)
i never bothered connecting it but reverse is the pink/black and yellow wire on the same plug i dont know which is wires (+) and (-).
where in CO are you?
nss, jump where the two yellow spots are (2 black wires)
i never bothered connecting it but reverse is the pink/black and yellow wire on the same plug i dont know which is wires (+) and (-).
where in CO are you?
The following users liked this post:
apyadig (12-14-20)
03-18-14, 09:20 AM
#3
Pole Position
Thread Starter
the PINK/BLACK and YELLOW are reverse lights
any idea for low gear?
I want to hook the clutch start switch up and a door pin up to prdal the clutch start switch to neutral and door pin to low so there is no hesitation for the engine thinking auto trans is in drive and wanting to shift because im also turbocharged and I dont want issues with that
im in westminster/arvada area
Last edited by kolessc400; 03-19-14 at 08:52 AM.
03-18-14, 03:50 PM
#4
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Posts: 1,442
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
yes those wire colors are correct.
and the car will not have any hesistation, thats the whole purpose of jumping the NSS.
i don't know what you mean about wiring up the low gear... once you removed the trans all that no longer applies.
and IF you decide to wire up your clutch start you will have to extended the black/white and black wire to the plug on the pedal assembly. i didn't do that either! hah
and the car will not have any hesistation, thats the whole purpose of jumping the NSS.
i don't know what you mean about wiring up the low gear... once you removed the trans all that no longer applies.
and IF you decide to wire up your clutch start you will have to extended the black/white and black wire to the plug on the pedal assembly. i didn't do that either! hah
03-18-14, 06:05 PM
#5
Pole Position
Thread Starter
With the set up of switching to low gear is because the ecu recognizes when the trans is in neutral and the engine reacts diffrent then when it recognises its in gear, this is why thay usualy swap an ecu with the trans but since this is an auto ecu it needs to be tricked into the right readings... with a turbo it recognises diffrens gears to ad what psi when needed... so with this said I am wanting it to recognise shifts with the manual as well so the wires for all the gears will help trick the ecu and turn off the o/d light.
Last edited by kolessc400; 03-19-14 at 08:52 AM.
Trending Topics
03-22-14, 05:07 PM
#8
Pole Position
Thread Starter
Does any one have the rest of the wireing by chance also I foun this for the reverse light wireing ligts LIGHT BLUE and YELLOW in a diffrent spot
Last edited by kolessc400; 03-22-14 at 06:04 PM.
03-25-14, 06:44 AM
#9
Rookie
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Canada
Posts: 52
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Good day
Maybe I can chime in with some suggestion.
I cannot remember the wiring but what I have done is locate the power wire using the test light and loop a wire from the power to various other connectors in the harness, the dash display for the auto selector will tell you what they correspond to. The wire can change depending of the year but that is a sure way to identify them accurately.
You mentioned that the car would behave differently when in gear, I didn’t notice any difference at all in my car, then again, I drive my car very easy because I am still breaking in my clutch so that may be the reason why I didn’t. Since my swap, all I have done is hook up the reverse through a transmission switch for reverses, and the NSS through the clutch pedal, nothing else. I got no code and was able to pass my OBD2 inspection.
Another suggestion I can make that “ I didn’t try yet” because my car is running just fine the way it is, would be to locate a wire under the dash what will provide power only when the key on the ACC position, feed it Park wire ( that will enable your car to be in Park whenever you insert the key and are on the ACC position) and feed the D , L or 2 or whatever gear you choose to the charging alternator fuse inside the engine bay ( that will enable your car to be in gear as soon as the engine is running)
There are many other alternatives to the manual Sc400 but I hope some of the suggestion I have made helps you resolve your issues.
Maybe I can chime in with some suggestion.
I cannot remember the wiring but what I have done is locate the power wire using the test light and loop a wire from the power to various other connectors in the harness, the dash display for the auto selector will tell you what they correspond to. The wire can change depending of the year but that is a sure way to identify them accurately.
You mentioned that the car would behave differently when in gear, I didn’t notice any difference at all in my car, then again, I drive my car very easy because I am still breaking in my clutch so that may be the reason why I didn’t. Since my swap, all I have done is hook up the reverse through a transmission switch for reverses, and the NSS through the clutch pedal, nothing else. I got no code and was able to pass my OBD2 inspection.
Another suggestion I can make that “ I didn’t try yet” because my car is running just fine the way it is, would be to locate a wire under the dash what will provide power only when the key on the ACC position, feed it Park wire ( that will enable your car to be in Park whenever you insert the key and are on the ACC position) and feed the D , L or 2 or whatever gear you choose to the charging alternator fuse inside the engine bay ( that will enable your car to be in gear as soon as the engine is running)
There are many other alternatives to the manual Sc400 but I hope some of the suggestion I have made helps you resolve your issues.
03-25-14, 07:55 AM
#10
Just because you put a turbo on it doesn't mean the car will suddenly start recognizing what gear you're in and do different things. Your piggy back is also completely unaware that you're in any gear. The piggy back is there to tune outside of the stock ecu's capability. Your logic is completely incorrect.
Also, the reverse lights don't matter as car as polarity. As long as you find the right wires in the auto harness and hook them up to the reverse lights switch on the new manual trans, you're good to go. Its just a switch that makes a circuit connect when its in reverse and isn't picky about which side is powered up.
Also, the reverse lights don't matter as car as polarity. As long as you find the right wires in the auto harness and hook them up to the reverse lights switch on the new manual trans, you're good to go. Its just a switch that makes a circuit connect when its in reverse and isn't picky about which side is powered up.
03-25-14, 09:28 AM
#11
Rookie
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Canada
Posts: 52
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I am not sure it it’s accurate or not since I never had the opportunity to test it myself but someone once told me on the SC400 VVIT, you could not rev pass 4K in park or neutral. The ECU apparently would only enable you to do so while in gear.
If that were true, his statement may not be totally incorrect.
If that were true, his statement may not be totally incorrect.
03-26-14, 06:20 PM
#12
Pole Position
Thread Starter
My statement maybe misguided but not incorect...the main purpose of this is to get the O/D LIGHT OUT as well as get input from other people fot their ways of doing so for BOTH OBD1 AND OBD2 if you hook into drive the engine intermittently sputs sinse it trys to shift with the auto trans while not shifting the manual so it does not recognise the manual shifts while wired in DRIVE gear while moving... as for the piggyback it acts up when it does this... also this is ti find all thi wireing from the NSS for experimentation with the wireing
Last edited by kolessc400; 03-26-14 at 06:35 PM.
03-26-14, 06:30 PM
#13
Pole Position
Thread Starter
Good day
Maybe I can chime in with some suggestion.
I cannot remember the wiring but what I have done is locate the power wire using the test light and loop a wire from the power to various other connectors in the harness, the dash display for the auto selector will tell you what they correspond to. The wire can change depending of the year but that is a sure way to identify them accurately.
You mentioned that the car would behave differently when in gear, I didn’t notice any difference at all in my car, then again, I drive my car very easy because I am still breaking in my clutch so that may be the reason why I didn’t. Since my swap, all I have done is hook up the reverse through a transmission switch for reverses, and the NSS through the clutch pedal, nothing else. I got no code and was able to pass my OBD2 inspection.
Another suggestion I can make that “ I didn’t try yet” because my car is running just fine the way it is, would be to locate a wire under the dash what will provide power only when the key on the ACC position, feed it Park wire ( that will enable your car to be in Park whenever you insert the key and are on the ACC position) and feed the D , L or 2 or whatever gear you choose to the charging alternator fuse inside the engine bay ( that will enable your car to be in gear as soon as the engine is running)
There are many other alternatives to the manual Sc400 but I hope some of the suggestion I have made helps you resolve your issues.
Maybe I can chime in with some suggestion.
I cannot remember the wiring but what I have done is locate the power wire using the test light and loop a wire from the power to various other connectors in the harness, the dash display for the auto selector will tell you what they correspond to. The wire can change depending of the year but that is a sure way to identify them accurately.
You mentioned that the car would behave differently when in gear, I didn’t notice any difference at all in my car, then again, I drive my car very easy because I am still breaking in my clutch so that may be the reason why I didn’t. Since my swap, all I have done is hook up the reverse through a transmission switch for reverses, and the NSS through the clutch pedal, nothing else. I got no code and was able to pass my OBD2 inspection.
Another suggestion I can make that “ I didn’t try yet” because my car is running just fine the way it is, would be to locate a wire under the dash what will provide power only when the key on the ACC position, feed it Park wire ( that will enable your car to be in Park whenever you insert the key and are on the ACC position) and feed the D , L or 2 or whatever gear you choose to the charging alternator fuse inside the engine bay ( that will enable your car to be in gear as soon as the engine is running)
There are many other alternatives to the manual Sc400 but I hope some of the suggestion I have made helps you resolve your issues.
03-27-14, 08:41 PM
#14
Rookie
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Canada
Posts: 52
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It sounds almost as if the release bearing is too close to the clutch pressure place. That’s the only explanation as to why the pedal is feeling heavy. It may not have enough spacing to release the pressure plate.
Lack of hydraulic fluid or improper bleeding would result in the exact opposite.
Sorry I can’t be much help on this topic, however, I am using a fork and external slave cylinder in my manual swap.
The thought of having to take the transmission out of the way just to service the slave, which by the way is prone to leaks and been so close to the clutch didn’t sit well with me.
I am sure that issue arose before , someone will provide an answer to this very soon.
Lack of hydraulic fluid or improper bleeding would result in the exact opposite.
Sorry I can’t be much help on this topic, however, I am using a fork and external slave cylinder in my manual swap.
The thought of having to take the transmission out of the way just to service the slave, which by the way is prone to leaks and been so close to the clutch didn’t sit well with me.
I am sure that issue arose before , someone will provide an answer to this very soon.
03-27-14, 10:12 PM
#15
Pole Position
Thread Starter
It sounds almost as if the release bearing is too close to the clutch pressure place. That’s the only explanation as to why the pedal is feeling heavy. It may not have enough spacing to release the pressure plate.
Lack of hydraulic fluid or improper bleeding would result in the exact opposite.
Sorry I can’t be much help on this topic, however, I am using a fork and external slave cylinder in my manual swap.
The thought of having to take the transmission out of the way just to service the slave, which by the way is prone to leaks and been so close to the clutch didn’t sit well with me.
I am sure that issue arose before , someone will provide an answer to this very soon.
Lack of hydraulic fluid or improper bleeding would result in the exact opposite.
Sorry I can’t be much help on this topic, however, I am using a fork and external slave cylinder in my manual swap.
The thought of having to take the transmission out of the way just to service the slave, which by the way is prone to leaks and been so close to the clutch didn’t sit well with me.
I am sure that issue arose before , someone will provide an answer to this very soon.