Project Lex (92 Royal Jade SC300)
Phase 1 of the MS3 install is done. All I did was install all the wires that were "tapped" into the existing wires (meaning I didn't do any of the wires that required me to cut them). This was simply so the car would still start and be running completely on the stock ECU, but the MS3 should turn on, and I should be able to play in the software. Here's some pics:
Work area setup
Wires tinned
Soldered, heatshrinked/elec taped
Quality Inspection performed by Freckles
Dangling for the time being. This is where it'll be mounted however. Not completely hidden, but out of the way for the most part, and easily accessible if need be which was my goal. You can see the strips of masking tape with little dots on them. That is where it will be once it's installed permanently:
And last but not least, a little startup vid. Like I mentioned before. I'm trying to go 1 by 1 with the car here. So since everything I hooked up so far was non-intrusive so to speak, all I'm doing here is making sure that I didn't mess anything up while I was down there, and that the car starts up with no problems and there's no magic smoke coming out from anywhere
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GAh9RnbQE6k
Again, big thanks to Jordan (Shaodome) for his help with all this.
Work area setup
Wires tinned
Soldered, heatshrinked/elec taped
Quality Inspection performed by Freckles
Dangling for the time being. This is where it'll be mounted however. Not completely hidden, but out of the way for the most part, and easily accessible if need be which was my goal. You can see the strips of masking tape with little dots on them. That is where it will be once it's installed permanently:
And last but not least, a little startup vid. Like I mentioned before. I'm trying to go 1 by 1 with the car here. So since everything I hooked up so far was non-intrusive so to speak, all I'm doing here is making sure that I didn't mess anything up while I was down there, and that the car starts up with no problems and there's no magic smoke coming out from anywhere
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GAh9RnbQE6k
Again, big thanks to Jordan (Shaodome) for his help with all this.
Last edited by Halon; Dec 30, 2010 at 12:08 AM.
Thanks once again to Jordan, and also Dave, for their help the last couple days. The MS is communicating with TunerStudio on my Netbook. Had a slight issue with the cam input but got it all worked out. So right now TunerStudio is up and talking just fine, and all the signals that I'm bringing in appear to be logging just fine. One thing I have noticed is that MS seems to read about 200rpm higher than my tach (when I put my tach at 2000, MS says 2200) no idea which is more accurate but whatever not a huge deal I don't think.
So anyhow, that's it for now, thanks again to those who've been helping me. This upcoming weekend I'm hoping to wire in the Injectors and Igniter wires so that MS is then in full control of ignition and timing, and hopefully have some sort of base map from Jordan so I can bring the car to the local dyno (DBPerformance)and get a complete tune done and the car running on Speed Density.
So anyhow, that's it for now, thanks again to those who've been helping me. This upcoming weekend I'm hoping to wire in the Injectors and Igniter wires so that MS is then in full control of ignition and timing, and hopefully have some sort of base map from Jordan so I can bring the car to the local dyno (DBPerformance)and get a complete tune done and the car running on Speed Density.
Started on Phase 2 of the MS3 install. The injectors and ignition are all wired up. I had to actually cut these wires, and solder and heat shrink them to the MS pigtail, since MS is taking over full control of them, stock ECU has no control of them anymore.
I need to run a vacuum line to it now for the MAP sensor, then get a base tune from Jordan @ Powersquirt, and another start-up video shall be made
I need to run a vacuum line to it now for the MAP sensor, then get a base tune from Jordan @ Powersquirt, and another start-up video shall be made
Been awhile since I've been able to get back to this thing. Been busy lately!
Got the turbo exhaust housing back from Primo Performance from being coated. Looks great thanks guys!
Started it up with the MS3 controlling fuel and ignition for the first time today also. Runs a little rough, but that's to be expected for the first start-up Again big thanks to Jordan (Shaodome) for the help!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=REOfz7GVyUg
Got the turbo exhaust housing back from Primo Performance from being coated. Looks great thanks guys!
Started it up with the MS3 controlling fuel and ignition for the first time today also. Runs a little rough, but that's to be expected for the first start-up
Again big thanks to Jordan (Shaodome) for the help!http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=REOfz7GVyUg
First test drive. I keep losing the sync, which deals with the cam signal coming in. I may dig under there next week and resolder that connection, and ensure it's well insulated and see if that helps at all. Anyhow here ya go!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xha7s9s--VY
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xha7s9s--VY
Last edited by Halon; Jan 26, 2011 at 09:54 AM.
Well today got a little bit done. The original vacuum source I was using wasn't very good (kPa value would freeze soon as the TB closed). So I found a different spot and tapped it from there.
Also decided to work on the sync issue as well. I was told to double check the base ignition timing on the car. So I looked up how to do it and went to it. Should be set to 10*. I found mine was sitting at about 12*. Clocked the dizzy and set it up right on 10. Here's a little how to if anyone ever needs to know how to set base timing on a 2JZGE.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
SETTING BASE TIMING ON A 2JZGE (1992 SC300)
- Find the diagnostic port in the engine bay, and jumper terminals TE1 and E1 with a paperclip.
- Connect the timing light to the battery, and to plug wire #1
[img][/img]
- The timing marks on the plastic cover will read | 10 | 0 (this is in increments of 5 so it read it as 15 10 5 0 ). With the pins jumpered, you want it set at 10.
- Point the timing light and look for the line on the crank. It should line up at 10. If it does not, there is a single 12mm nut you need to loosen on the distributor. Clock the dizzy until the mark lines up.
- When you're done, tighten the nut back up on the distributor, and check the timing one last time to ensure it didn't budge while tightening the distributor. Remove the jumper. With the jumper removed, you will notice the timing will advance a bit automatically which is normal.
Also decided to work on the sync issue as well. I was told to double check the base ignition timing on the car. So I looked up how to do it and went to it. Should be set to 10*. I found mine was sitting at about 12*. Clocked the dizzy and set it up right on 10. Here's a little how to if anyone ever needs to know how to set base timing on a 2JZGE.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
SETTING BASE TIMING ON A 2JZGE (1992 SC300)
- Find the diagnostic port in the engine bay, and jumper terminals TE1 and E1 with a paperclip.
- Connect the timing light to the battery, and to plug wire #1
[img][/img]
- The timing marks on the plastic cover will read | 10 | 0 (this is in increments of 5 so it read it as 15 10 5 0 ). With the pins jumpered, you want it set at 10.
- Point the timing light and look for the line on the crank. It should line up at 10. If it does not, there is a single 12mm nut you need to loosen on the distributor. Clock the dizzy until the mark lines up.
- When you're done, tighten the nut back up on the distributor, and check the timing one last time to ensure it didn't budge while tightening the distributor. Remove the jumper. With the jumper removed, you will notice the timing will advance a bit automatically which is normal.
Haven't updated this lately because I haven't really made too much progress. Still trying to trouble shoot this sync issue before I continue on with anything further. Kinda a pain in the butt, but gotta keep working on it. And I haven't had nearly the amount of time lately as I had before, so I only get an hour here n there to do stuff.
Once I get this sync issue worked out though, then the fun stuff starts
Once I get this sync issue worked out though, then the fun stuff starts
Well it's been forever since I've updated this. Mainly because there has been nothing to update as life has been quite hectic since the beginning of the year.
Today I finally got some time to continue troubleshooting the sync problem. Put a scope to the Cam and Crank inputs as noise was suspected as being a possible cause of my sync/tach issue. Here's a nice vid. Looks clean to me. It's a 24 tooth (no missing tooth) crank signal, and I have just a single G2 cam signal coming in. You can see pretty clearly that they look pretty clean. You see the single Cam trigger, then 24 Crank signals. I'm no expert but it doesn't look like there's much noise on there at all.
What I do notice is how close the cam trigger is to the crank trigger. From what I understand, you do not want those to line up perfectly. The cam trigger should come in between two of the crank triggers. Maybe that is my issue?
If anyone has any advice, feel free to share! And big thanks to Shane at DB Performance for lending me the scope. Greatly appreciated!!
[youtube]gs2vCC5x3KY[/youtube]
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gs2vCC5x3KY
Today I finally got some time to continue troubleshooting the sync problem. Put a scope to the Cam and Crank inputs as noise was suspected as being a possible cause of my sync/tach issue. Here's a nice vid. Looks clean to me. It's a 24 tooth (no missing tooth) crank signal, and I have just a single G2 cam signal coming in. You can see pretty clearly that they look pretty clean. You see the single Cam trigger, then 24 Crank signals. I'm no expert but it doesn't look like there's much noise on there at all.
What I do notice is how close the cam trigger is to the crank trigger. From what I understand, you do not want those to line up perfectly. The cam trigger should come in between two of the crank triggers. Maybe that is my issue?
If anyone has any advice, feel free to share! And big thanks to Shane at DB Performance for lending me the scope. Greatly appreciated!!
[youtube]gs2vCC5x3KY[/youtube]
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gs2vCC5x3KY