Window regulator fix for Sc models
#91
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Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Oklahoma
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Deceptik1,
FYI. When my passenger side broke about 4months ago I also thought the ferrule idea would work. I never got it to work long term but someone else may have some luck. Here are the details: You can buy the ferrules in different sizes a Lowe's for just a few cents. Since they are cylindrical, I just used my dremel to cut a slot so that it can be slid onto the cable and crimped. Also, you will want to cut their length to about 1/4" or it will afftect the travel of the window at the extreme limits. Mine even got jammed once. I even added JB Weld for strength. It worked a few times before it broke loose. So I just ended up replacing my regulator for $90.
FYI. When my passenger side broke about 4months ago I also thought the ferrule idea would work. I never got it to work long term but someone else may have some luck. Here are the details: You can buy the ferrules in different sizes a Lowe's for just a few cents. Since they are cylindrical, I just used my dremel to cut a slot so that it can be slid onto the cable and crimped. Also, you will want to cut their length to about 1/4" or it will afftect the travel of the window at the extreme limits. Mine even got jammed once. I even added JB Weld for strength. It worked a few times before it broke loose. So I just ended up replacing my regulator for $90.
#93
Racer
Welcome, Quinn! Post pics soon!
While Quinn gets his bearings and learns how to get around ClubLexus, let me mention that prevention may play a part in keeping the window regulator in good shape. My passenger hit the window down button and the passenger window, after being closed for weeks (if not months), made quite a noise as it broke away from the upper rubber window gasket it had adhered to.
So as soon as I got home, I treated the gasket with some rubber protectant, so it's a bit less attracted to the window glass. I am sure the window regulator won't have to work as hard the next time that button is hit, and that can only help it last longer.
So as soon as I got home, I treated the gasket with some rubber protectant, so it's a bit less attracted to the window glass. I am sure the window regulator won't have to work as hard the next time that button is hit, and that can only help it last longer.
#94
I have now bought a SC400 and recently a SC300. It is strange to me why nobody here talks about "why the window power regulators may crack".
I have found out on both cars which I bought that all outside window rubber seals where the window slides up and down were in totally dry and dirty and sticky condition. The windows went up and down very slow.
So I washed the rubber seals several times and lubricated them heavily with "Bayer Marine Silicone Spray" and suddenly the windows go up and down much much faster with surprisingly less force to the motor!
Correct me if I am wrong, but I think this hasn't been mentioned before that permanent treatment of the outside window rubbers is an important issue.
I have found out on both cars which I bought that all outside window rubber seals where the window slides up and down were in totally dry and dirty and sticky condition. The windows went up and down very slow.
So I washed the rubber seals several times and lubricated them heavily with "Bayer Marine Silicone Spray" and suddenly the windows go up and down much much faster with surprisingly less force to the motor!
Correct me if I am wrong, but I think this hasn't been mentioned before that permanent treatment of the outside window rubbers is an important issue.
#95
Originally Posted by PERRYinLA
While Quinn gets his bearings and learns how to get around ClubLexus, let me mention that prevention may play a part in keeping the window regulator in good shape. My passenger hit the window down button and the passenger window, after being closed for weeks (if not months), made quite a noise as it broke away from the upper rubber window gasket it had adhered to.
So as soon as I got home, I treated the gasket with some rubber protectant, so it's a bit less attracted to the window glass. I am sure the window regulator won't have to work as hard the next time that button is hit, and that can only help it last longer.
So as soon as I got home, I treated the gasket with some rubber protectant, so it's a bit less attracted to the window glass. I am sure the window regulator won't have to work as hard the next time that button is hit, and that can only help it last longer.
#97
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Location: Texas
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Spooling the Cable
1993 SC400, passenger side.
Alright, I've got mine wired up & epoxied, but I cannot get the F@#$%^G cable spooled up and back into the motor housing!! There doesn't seem to be enough cable by about 1/4"!!! I've been trying to get the mother back together for several weeks to no avail. I DID NOT SHORTEN THE CABLE OR DO ANYTHING THAT MIGHT HAVE SHORTENED IT'S LENGTH.
I've tried assembling everything and spooling the cable up last and then inserting the spool into the housing. That doesn't work because I can't hold the springs compressed and hold the cable onto the spool while inserting the spool into the housing. I don't have six hands, and My fingers a pretty strong, but they are not vice-grips.
I've tried assembling the spool, cable & housing first and leaving one of the nylon cable stays off of the steel guide rail. (What I'm calling a cable stay is at the end of the hollow flexible tube that holds the cable between the guide rail and the motor/spool assembly. The stay is at the opposite end of this tube from the motor/spool assembly.) This allows me to assemble everything except for the cable stay. Then when I pull the stay back compressing the springs completely, I can see that the stay would fit into it's slot at the end of it's rail, but there is not enough play in the cable to pull it down enough to get to the start of the slot, so there's no getting it on (pun?) that way.
HELP! How the he!! do you guys get this thing together? What am I missing? It must be blatantly obvious or I would have figured it out by now...
Thanks...
Alright, I've got mine wired up & epoxied, but I cannot get the F@#$%^G cable spooled up and back into the motor housing!! There doesn't seem to be enough cable by about 1/4"!!! I've been trying to get the mother back together for several weeks to no avail. I DID NOT SHORTEN THE CABLE OR DO ANYTHING THAT MIGHT HAVE SHORTENED IT'S LENGTH.
I've tried assembling everything and spooling the cable up last and then inserting the spool into the housing. That doesn't work because I can't hold the springs compressed and hold the cable onto the spool while inserting the spool into the housing. I don't have six hands, and My fingers a pretty strong, but they are not vice-grips.
I've tried assembling the spool, cable & housing first and leaving one of the nylon cable stays off of the steel guide rail. (What I'm calling a cable stay is at the end of the hollow flexible tube that holds the cable between the guide rail and the motor/spool assembly. The stay is at the opposite end of this tube from the motor/spool assembly.) This allows me to assemble everything except for the cable stay. Then when I pull the stay back compressing the springs completely, I can see that the stay would fit into it's slot at the end of it's rail, but there is not enough play in the cable to pull it down enough to get to the start of the slot, so there's no getting it on (pun?) that way.
HELP! How the he!! do you guys get this thing together? What am I missing? It must be blatantly obvious or I would have figured it out by now...
Thanks...
#98
Keeper of the light
Thread Starter
iTrader: (17)
It's very tight. You have to make certain the springs are fully compressed and the plastic mounts they sit on are properly seated on the extensions, or it won't fit. Still........ it's VERY tight.
#99
Yeah, what he said...
Yeah, I had a heck of a time putting mine back together. It's a tight fit for sure. I was wishing I had valve spring compressors. If you can get a friend to give you a hand, compressing the spings helps a bit. I went as far as to actually compress and tie mine down, then just clipped the strings when I got it together. It really only helped a little. It might be easier to do it without the strings.
If I recall, when I was spooling the cable, I did the top cable and the bottom cable at the same time (with the clip about mid track) so that when I was at the last wrap-around, if you will, of the cable, all I had to do was twist the spool so as to wrap the last bit into the top groove and into the bottom at the same time. I hope this makes sense. It's hard for me to put this into words. It worked for me.
If I recall, when I was spooling the cable, I did the top cable and the bottom cable at the same time (with the clip about mid track) so that when I was at the last wrap-around, if you will, of the cable, all I had to do was twist the spool so as to wrap the last bit into the top groove and into the bottom at the same time. I hope this makes sense. It's hard for me to put this into words. It worked for me.
#100
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Originally Posted by Seismic
... all I had to do was twist the spool so as to wrap the last bit into the top groove and into the bottom at the same time. I hope this makes sense. It's hard for me to put this into words. It worked for me.
That sounds like the blatantly obvious method I've been missing. I'll try it next time I get a chance to fiddle with it and see....
Thanks!
#101
Originally Posted by aasc300
Ill have to try to find my paperwork to get the part number. I got it from my buddy the Parts magaer at a local Lexus dealership
The Lexus part number is 69802-24033
The Lexus part number is 69802-24033
I know Brian has had good luck with this fix, but I don't recall anyone else actually chiming in with a good success story. I believe this has something to do with the different ways the plastic piece can break.
Save yourself alot of time, and alot of stress...just go buy the new regulator.
#103
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hmmm i bumped into something weird today.. i have had the same problem with my window, but before when i try to roll them up i would hear it scrolling up and down, so i tried to fix it, i removed the door panel and when i did that i couldnt pull the window up so i tried to reconnect the window lines to the controller and tried to roll it up and down but i no longer heard it scroll up or down anymore, and also how can i pull my window back up, when i try to pull it back up it doesnt go anywhere, i am in need of help asap
#104
G35x - RWD/AWD goodness
*Knocks on wood* This hasn’t happened to me yet, but another great fix Brian and I’ve already bookmarked it.
I read towards the beginning that mikeloc24 suggested trying to JB weld the part before it failed, but Brian didn’t think it could be done. Is there anything anybody has found they can do to help prevent it from failing?
I read towards the beginning that mikeloc24 suggested trying to JB weld the part before it failed, but Brian didn’t think it could be done. Is there anything anybody has found they can do to help prevent it from failing?
#105
ok mine went today .. I heard a "pop" and the window wouldn't go back up. it will go down though. I was able to push it back up with my hands (it's raining today).
I'm going to try the JB weld, and if it doesn't work, I'll order the regulator.
I have two questions though. Is there a write up somewhere on how to remove the paneling from the door? I'm sure I can figure it out if I start pulling on things, but it's always nice to have a write up to refer to.
And what is the part number for the drivers side regulator on a 92. Someone had posted the lexus part number, if I go to a toyota dealership is it the same part number?
thanks
I'm going to try the JB weld, and if it doesn't work, I'll order the regulator.
I have two questions though. Is there a write up somewhere on how to remove the paneling from the door? I'm sure I can figure it out if I start pulling on things, but it's always nice to have a write up to refer to.
And what is the part number for the drivers side regulator on a 92. Someone had posted the lexus part number, if I go to a toyota dealership is it the same part number?
thanks