Timing belt/water pump
ORdered a kit for a 97 SC300, from TOYOLEX. Parts were good or looked good. Everything is back together, engine runs fine but will start to overheat ? Thermostat area still relatively cool around 135 degrees??? Ok one, thought defective OEM toyota thermostat. Tested, works well. Thermostat only goes in one way. I'm all for any suggestions at this point. faulty pump? Car ran like a top before any of the required service.
BJ
BJ
When you installed the new thermostat, did you put the little wiggly pin facing up? If not, you could not be bleeding the system correctly as the orientation is important for air to clear through. Possible to have a defective water pump, but I'd check your thermostat first. As the car warms, check both radiator hoses. If only one gets hot, you know the thermostat isn't popping or that coolant isn't flowing correctly.
Rudy, thanks for the reply. Yes, oriented the thermostat wiggle valve up as indicated. Thermostat housing has an orientation knub to line it up with. I don't think I have a defective water pump because I was getting lots of heat through the inside the cabin heater so I know the bypass is working. I'm waiting for Nov 1. when I get paid. I am going to nip this one in the butt by getting a vacuum coolant bleeder!! I will post again with the results of vacuum bleeding after I do so in Nov.
BJ
BJ
Bryan,
Anytime sir! A shade-tree trick would be to jack the front of the car up while its cool - open the radiator cap, start the car, and let it warm up fully so that the thermostat opens. Blast the heater, and let the car run while you work the air bubbles out from the high point at the radiator. Typically these cars are pretty easy to bleed, however, sometimes air can get stuck in a location that's hard to get it out of. Of course keep an eye on your temp gauge as well in case it starts to overheat again.
Let us know!
Anytime sir! A shade-tree trick would be to jack the front of the car up while its cool - open the radiator cap, start the car, and let it warm up fully so that the thermostat opens. Blast the heater, and let the car run while you work the air bubbles out from the high point at the radiator. Typically these cars are pretty easy to bleed, however, sometimes air can get stuck in a location that's hard to get it out of. Of course keep an eye on your temp gauge as well in case it starts to overheat again.
Let us know!
Got the vacuum coolant system bleeder. Worked great I Will use that again for sure! . Still having the situation where there is no flow situation at the thermostat housing, top hose is HOT, bottom is maybe warm, like the thermostat is not opening but new and tested, old one was tested and was good at 195 degrees. not getting why there is no circulation? radiators is clean. Any input would be welcome. I've never had this type of trouble with a cooling system. Little wiggle valve was correctly aligned.
At this point, can be 1. defective Ebay OEM Asin , been reading on these where they maybe. chinese knockoffs. It is the only thing I can really think of now. 2. weird situation where Original radiator went south during the install of the new timing belt/Water pump.
Any input welcome.
BJ
At this point, can be 1. defective Ebay OEM Asin , been reading on these where they maybe. chinese knockoffs. It is the only thing I can really think of now. 2. weird situation where Original radiator went south during the install of the new timing belt/Water pump.
Any input welcome.
BJ
It's very possible the radiator could be clogged depending on what kind of shape it was in before all of the work you put in... Hard to test that without putting it and running water through it. However, oem replacements are cheap and easy to swap out as good insurance.
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I read where if the top of the radiator was brown to replace and indeed lots of micro cracking, so ordered a new one. Going to take the new lower hose off and see if there is something inside. blocking flow. Take it step by step. Heater works via the bypass so I'm thinking maybe not the pump?
Thanks for the Reply Rudy!
BJ
Thanks for the Reply Rudy!
BJ
New Radiator installed. Denso made in China?? Went right in. Still no go, no real circulation of heated water through the radiator??? I can hold the pipe where the thermostat is mounted with my hand after 15 minutes running. Sometings wrong there. What is next, going to omit the thermostat and see if water flows, if not, the water pump. I've read some of those AISIN Branded water pumps are chinese copies. Could be I got one where the dude put the water impeller on backwards?? .
I have never in my life have had such problems with a toyota/lex product. So the most unlikely is the water pump, so that will be coming next if no circulation without the thermostat.
Rudy, can you tell me the exact spot where my OBDII connection terminal is located in this 97 SC300?? No one seems to have posted a good decent pic?
BJ
I have never in my life have had such problems with a toyota/lex product. So the most unlikely is the water pump, so that will be coming next if no circulation without the thermostat.
Rudy, can you tell me the exact spot where my OBDII connection terminal is located in this 97 SC300?? No one seems to have posted a good decent pic?
BJ
UPDATE, ran the SC300 without thermostat and jacked up the Drivers side so hopefully any air stuck near where the thermostat housing was got out. Lots of air air plopped out. used the Large funnel method again. Water pump is indeed working. So, problem is at the thermostat, I'd say AIR. Took it out, put it in pot , it seems to open late, around 189?? So ck'n with you folks before putting it back in, this coming friday.
I'd just slap a new thermostat in there, jack it up, and re-bleed for as long as necessary. I'm surprised by your troubles but sometimes air getting stuck or a simple malfunction of a part like a thermostat can leave you scratching your head. Typically the coolant systems on these cars are rather easy to bleed... Not sure what temperature they're supposed to open at normally, but that does seem a tad high. Perhaps someone can chime in?
Yesterday, placed Toyota OEM thermostat back in, assembled. Had drained radiator already. Filled, sqeezed hoses and ran the engine.. Had jacked up on the dirvers side just behind the front tire . So much air came out this way. I feel confident all air is now out!!! Did not over heat.
Next item is drain the auto trans and put in some OEM fluid today. It has been a year and I've taken it slow due to budget but this vehicle was driven by someone who hardly did any service other than oil changes/battery. Had to replace all shocks, rotors, calipers(just to be safe), Rear Toe and tracking arms.
I figure still needs driveshaft universal joint lube, change trans fluid and rear diff.
Getting closer to making it a daily driver.
Thanks for all the replies!!
BJ
Next item is drain the auto trans and put in some OEM fluid today. It has been a year and I've taken it slow due to budget but this vehicle was driven by someone who hardly did any service other than oil changes/battery. Had to replace all shocks, rotors, calipers(just to be safe), Rear Toe and tracking arms.
I figure still needs driveshaft universal joint lube, change trans fluid and rear diff.
Getting closer to making it a daily driver.
Thanks for all the replies!!

BJ
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