SactoSC3

Climate control went out on Monday. Found a blown 10A fuse at the left kick panel and replaced it with a 15A. Turned key to ACC and saw Climate Control illuminate, so I figured I was good. Put covers back on, carpet back into place and checked cig lighter for a penny, just in case. Started car and light went out again. 15A fuse blown.

Is there a mechanical part that can be triggering the fuse to blow? Fan clutch, maybe? I've done Advanced Searches in the Forums and usual solution was fuse replacement. But, since I've done that already, I'm wondering if anyone else has seen other issues that may be driving the fuses to blow.

Thanks!!

O. L. T.

iTrader: (17)

unplug the cig lighter to eliminate possibility of short you can't see down in there. if any radio installs, check ill wiring.

SactoSC3

O. L. T.

iTrader: (17)

Mechanical faults show in the form of the lights blinking on the AC

SactoSC3

I believe I’ve now got this narrowed down to a bad ac compressor clutch. Ive searched the forum and can’t find any parts numbers. Called local parts places, Napa, Autozone, Oreillys and no one sells just the clutch besides OE/Dealer. Has anyone else had luck buying one elsewhere besides OE and have a part number. Thanks

Wintercat

Here's a clean phone shot of the AC Compressor Assembly pages from the 92-99 SC 400/300 Parts Catalog, if it helps.

No luck finding a complete assembly at a wrecker? I've even seen them on eBay for not much.

A/C compressors are arcane things to me, and the SC started with an R12 model that required the separate oil charge and all. I believe 95 or perhaps 94 was the changeover to the R134a, and some early ones have been converted. Good luck!

SactoSC3

RXRodger

iTrader: (2)

I had a similar issue. I replaced the entire compressor, recharged the system, and no more issues. It was about $200 from one of the online parts houses, seems like I used Rock Auto.

SactoSC3

RXRodger

iTrader: (2)

I did that first, pretty easy job so you shouldn't have too bad a time getting it done. Mine had a bad fit on the clutch bearing which I attempted to repair with some shaft repair epoxy but it didn't hold hence the compressor replacement.

SactoSC3

Ok, I installed a new OE ac clutch assembly 88410-24020. It wasn't too hard. I just had to remove the top radiator hose, battery and battery tray. I discovered that the clutch bearing failed, causing the clutch to wear and break the wavy snapring, 90099-07125, and then actually melt the coil assembly. I had to pick the second snapring out from under a layer of melted plastic. Installed the new parts, but couldn't figure out the gap settings. Started it up, air blew cold, but after a few miles on the highway, the gap must have been too far, as the clutch smoked the coil again. Thankfully, AutoZone sells the coil separately, p/n MT2300 for the Santech A/C Clutch Coil. Question is...does anyone have the gap setting for the clutch hub? I can find that the 2UZ-FE series motors are .35-.60mm, but I can't seem to locate anything on the 2JZ series. I'll swap to the replacement coil next week, but will get some feeler strips to gap this thing properly. I did buy 88335-14020 washer kit that came with 3 thin magnetic shim washers, but I can't rely on those setting the correct gap, can I?

RXRodger

iTrader: (2)

Looks like the family of compressors Toyota used at this time are all 0.33-.0.66mm (0.014-0.026") so I would say safe bet to set it in that range.

SactoSC3

Sweet! I was able to hit up a friend who is a mechanic and he accessed the AllData system, but he could only pull GM specs of around .35mm-.60mm. He advised me to stay around .50mm which is right in line with these specs. Thank you.