Sold The SC....Now What???
10-18-17, 06:14 PM
#31
^ Ok that isn't true at all. There's a huge Japanese aftermarket for the IS, GS, RC and LS cars.
If you're looking for cheap mods, hell no there isn't LOL!. OBX doesn't make parts for cars where the owners gladly fork over $700 for a titanium intake tube. $2000 for long tube manifolds. $6000 for a bolt on HKS supercharger kit
And there definitely isn't any rep aero for those cars. They're starting with the IS250/350s currently
If you're looking for cheap mods, hell no there isn't LOL!. OBX doesn't make parts for cars where the owners gladly fork over $700 for a titanium intake tube. $2000 for long tube manifolds. $6000 for a bolt on HKS supercharger kit
And there definitely isn't any rep aero for those cars. They're starting with the IS250/350s currently
As far as performance, I don't the HKS supercharger kit that runs 5psi to give the IS a whopping 50hp increase qualifies...lol.
10-18-17, 10:42 PM
#32
Lead Lap
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: I.E Southern California to SA,Texas
Posts: 4,447
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes
on
5 Posts
After listing the car for less than a week and numerous offers, I sold the SC300 this evening...smooth transaction, the buyer knew what the car was all about.
So, now that the car is gone...the garage looks so empty. I need a turbo car!
Been thinking of the following cars:
- Subaru STI (kinda $$)
- 300ZX Twin Turbo (had one way back and loved it).
- E46 M3 (problematic)
What do you guys think? Any advice or suggestions? I got $15k in total to play with as a down payment.
So, now that the car is gone...the garage looks so empty. I need a turbo car!
Been thinking of the following cars:
- Subaru STI (kinda $$)
- 300ZX Twin Turbo (had one way back and loved it).
- E46 M3 (problematic)
What do you guys think? Any advice or suggestions? I got $15k in total to play with as a down payment.
10-19-17, 07:11 AM
#33
Lexus Test Driver
sucks you sold the car. i was looking forward to seeing your car finished and at some local chicago meets. especially since you were leaning towards that t56 trans route.
my recommendation for relatively cheap and reliable fun with TONS of tuning potential and NEW parts would be a C6 Vette.
my recommendation for relatively cheap and reliable fun with TONS of tuning potential and NEW parts would be a C6 Vette.
10-23-17, 09:56 AM
#36
Well, here she is....picked her up on Sunday from a 72yr old (original owner) in Indiana....literally a barn find lol.
It's a super clean 1991 300ZX 2+0 5spd NA w/ 71k original miles. No rust, no accidents, no mechanical issues, one owner car. Great example and picked her up for a great deal! She will now be the foundation for my 2JZ or RB build...haven't decided yet.
Here are the pics of when I was picking her up...
It's a super clean 1991 300ZX 2+0 5spd NA w/ 71k original miles. No rust, no accidents, no mechanical issues, one owner car. Great example and picked her up for a great deal! She will now be the foundation for my 2JZ or RB build...haven't decided yet.
Here are the pics of when I was picking her up...
Last edited by LexIS007; 10-23-17 at 10:41 AM.
10-23-17, 10:22 AM
#37
That's clean. Congrats on the new car.
I honestly do not blame you for dumping your SC. That car was a rust bucket that was not worth to restore. You'd have to cut and install new body panels and trying to fix the rocker and quarter rust would be a nightmare....and WHY? When there are so many clean rust free examples in the south.
I honestly do not blame you for dumping your SC. That car was a rust bucket that was not worth to restore. You'd have to cut and install new body panels and trying to fix the rocker and quarter rust would be a nightmare....and WHY? When there are so many clean rust free examples in the south.
10-23-17, 10:37 AM
#38
That's clean. Congrats on the new car.
I honestly do not blame you for dumping your SC. That car was a rust bucket that was not worth to restore. You'd have to cut and install new body panels and trying to fix the rocker and quarter rust would be a nightmare....and WHY? When there are so many clean rust free examples in the south.
I honestly do not blame you for dumping your SC. That car was a rust bucket that was not worth to restore. You'd have to cut and install new body panels and trying to fix the rocker and quarter rust would be a nightmare....and WHY? When there are so many clean rust free examples in the south.
I know this is not a Z forum, but I hope to still be welcomed to share my build with everyone (especially if I decide to go 2JZ).
Thanks.
10-23-17, 10:45 AM
#40
It's a several hour job to convert to manual if you have a lift and know what you're doing, but to repair the amount of body rot would not only take an enormous amount of time and money, but there are no guarantees it will not come back. This is why most or probably all bodyshops never guarantee rust.
Most people make the mistake of buying the cheap car and thinking, I can fix things along the way but next thing you know you needa complete new interior, a full paintjob, rust repair, etc. and you're 15k in the hole just getting it to a clean base you can start modding. Never worth it.
Most people make the mistake of buying the cheap car and thinking, I can fix things along the way but next thing you know you needa complete new interior, a full paintjob, rust repair, etc. and you're 15k in the hole just getting it to a clean base you can start modding. Never worth it.
10-23-17, 10:49 AM
#41
You definitely did well on getting that clean-*** Z. That's the best way to do it. Get a clean one-owner car (which is VERY hard to do...so big congrats on that), and start modding. Don't have to mess with rust/paint/etc. which are all big tasks that you can't even do yourself unless you're some wizard 1%er that has the experience,knowledge, and facility to do that kind of work.
10-23-17, 11:08 AM
#42
Thanks Jadu! 
Yeah, the mechanical stuff is easier to get away with in terms of "flaws" on most builds because it doesn't have to be in the best shape aesthetically. For example, the sand casting marks (pitting) on an aluminum engine parts, etc... These are things people just expect to look raw, not 100% correct. Unfortunately, we can't say the same for the bodies of cars.
I will be starting to collect the JDM pieces now (99' JDM headlights, bumpers, sides, and tailights). In the meantime, i'll be comparing the price difference of building a 2JZ to an RB. I know the 2JZ will be much cheaper to build, but...if it's only a few grand difference....I will go the RB route.
It's a several hour job to convert to manual if you have a lift and know what you're doing, but to repair the amount of body rot would not only take an enormous amount of time and money, but there are no guarantees it will not come back. This is why most or probably all bodyshops never guarantee rust.
Most people make the mistake of buying the cheap car and thinking, I can fix things along the way but next thing you know you needa complete new interior, a full paintjob, rust repair, etc. and you're 15k in the hole just getting it to a clean base you can start modding. Never worth it.
You definitely did well on getting that clean-*** Z. That's the best way to do it. Get a clean one-owner car (which is VERY hard to do...so big congrats on that), and start modding. Don't have to mess with rust/paint/etc. which are all big tasks that you can't even do yourself unless you're some wizard 1%er that has the experience,knowledge, and facility to do that kind of work.
Most people make the mistake of buying the cheap car and thinking, I can fix things along the way but next thing you know you needa complete new interior, a full paintjob, rust repair, etc. and you're 15k in the hole just getting it to a clean base you can start modding. Never worth it.
You definitely did well on getting that clean-*** Z. That's the best way to do it. Get a clean one-owner car (which is VERY hard to do...so big congrats on that), and start modding. Don't have to mess with rust/paint/etc. which are all big tasks that you can't even do yourself unless you're some wizard 1%er that has the experience,knowledge, and facility to do that kind of work.
I will be starting to collect the JDM pieces now (99' JDM headlights, bumpers, sides, and tailights). In the meantime, i'll be comparing the price difference of building a 2JZ to an RB. I know the 2JZ will be much cheaper to build, but...if it's only a few grand difference....I will go the RB route.
10-23-17, 03:39 PM
#43
That's a very clean Z32! Congratulations!! A one-owner, low mileage factory manual car. Great find! I remember reading once that the most popular model sold in the Japanese market was one we never got in the USA: the Z32 2+2 TT. You've got a great foundation to build off of.
I don't want to ruffle any feathers suggesting this but being a 90's Nissan with a 5-speed manual nearly identical to what was offered in the Skylines of the era an RB will be nearly bolt-in with a bellhousing swap, won't it? I could be mistaken but I have been under the impression that the Z32 NA and TT 5-speed M/T's are very similar or the same and were also used with factory Skyline RB20DET and RB25DET applications. Just the same, the support is out there these days to install a 2JZ and whatever compatible manual transmission you want.
Although I do think those Z32's need the early 90's OEM add-on TT ducktail rear spoiler parts. They just set off the lines very well, IMO.
Can't wait to see what you do with it!
I don't want to ruffle any feathers suggesting this but being a 90's Nissan with a 5-speed manual nearly identical to what was offered in the Skylines of the era an RB will be nearly bolt-in with a bellhousing swap, won't it? I could be mistaken but I have been under the impression that the Z32 NA and TT 5-speed M/T's are very similar or the same and were also used with factory Skyline RB20DET and RB25DET applications. Just the same, the support is out there these days to install a 2JZ and whatever compatible manual transmission you want.
Although I do think those Z32's need the early 90's OEM add-on TT ducktail rear spoiler parts. They just set off the lines very well, IMO.
Can't wait to see what you do with it!
Last edited by KahnBB6; 10-23-17 at 03:45 PM.
10-23-17, 06:22 PM
#44
Lexus Test Driver
Adjusted for inflation, this car was $58k 2017 dollars? For an NA!. No wonder why they didn't sell too many of these.
Beautiful car btw. Keep us posted on the build. And post pics, everyone LOVES pics. lol
Beautiful car btw. Keep us posted on the build. And post pics, everyone LOVES pics. lol