1995 SC300 Stick Shift (newbie) w/ questions ;-)
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1995 SC300 Stick Shift (newbie) w/ questions ;-)
Due to a passing in the family , we have a 1995 SC300 w/ stick shift and I believe 98K on the clock, that I'am unsure of as the battery was dead but that is what I think I saw w/ a flashlight on the dash. The car has always been heated garage kept but has not been run in who know how long. Body, interior, tires , motor compartment all look fantastic.
The original owner said that this was some type of a limited edition? (cause it was stick? ) or just in general?
I was looking under the dash by the left knee and there is some type of lock the presses in to lock something, I do not know what but the ignition key fits it. So I'm guessing that it was from the factory? Would this be a battery disconnect? alarm?
Sorry just the start of more questions, I only had a little time to check over the car, I plan the roll it out and get some nice photos.
The original owner said that this was some type of a limited edition? (cause it was stick? ) or just in general?
I was looking under the dash by the left knee and there is some type of lock the presses in to lock something, I do not know what but the ignition key fits it. So I'm guessing that it was from the factory? Would this be a battery disconnect? alarm?
Sorry just the start of more questions, I only had a little time to check over the car, I plan the roll it out and get some nice photos.
Last edited by escorial; 04-30-17 at 05:37 PM. Reason: Admin Please Remove
#2
i believe that lock would be for the trunk release.... so i see youre in IL too... wanna swap your trans to an auto? lol
(wait for the expected "search the forums" answer that everyone gets
(wait for the expected "search the forums" answer that everyone gets
Last edited by logix7; 04-07-17 at 01:27 PM. Reason: added
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Car is actually in Lake Geneva but titled in IL. Soon as the estate is settled the car will be going up for sale. First going to roll it out and wash it and get some pix and try to start it. It was the original owners baby and used little over the years, again I'm unsure if I read the mileage correctly as the battery was dead and I was just looking at the dash w/ a flashlight.
The owner always said that the car with the stick option was a very limited run? Anyone know if that was true? Was that year also limited w/ the auto?
The owner always said that the car with the stick option was a very limited run? Anyone know if that was true? Was that year also limited w/ the auto?
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Approximately 10% of all SCs were manual. They came with autos during their full production run, and with manual transmissions from 1992-1997.
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OP, I am sorry for your loss. My condolences.
They were not a "limited run" but they were limited in availability from 1992-1997. The majority of SC300's were ordered by dealers with automatics and a few manuals. Buyers could also special order them. There were 3,883 stick models made total from 1992-1997. The SC400 (V8 model) was never offered with a stick from the factory.
Put a fresh battery in the vehicle and you'll be able to turn the key to to pre-ignition and see the real odometer reading, which is digital and requires electricity to view. (you'll want a battery rated 750CCA and do note which side the battery terminals are. If buying an Autozone Duralast you want a 24F-DLG I think but they or any battery seller will be able to look up your correct battery options. 750CCA is just a very good idea with these cars. Especially in colder climates).
If it has been seldom used you will want to change all the major fluids. Engine oil type is 10W-30. A recommended oil for the factory manual transmission is Redline MT-90. Rear differential oil is 75W-90 or 80W-90, synthetic preferred (Mobil 1, etc) every 30K. Recommended coolant is either Toyota Red 100% antifreeze with equal amounts of distilled water... or you can buy enough gallons of Toyota Pink 50/50 that are pre-mixed which you can pour right in. Important note: the correct power steering fluid is Automatic Transmission Fluid Dexron II/III type. DO NOT EVER USE COMMON POWER STEERING FLUID IN AN SC300 or SC400. Dexron IV ATF should be backwards compatible to II and III. Not sure about Dexron VI ATF. The most foolproof power steering fluid for the Lexus SC300 or SC400 is Toyota ATF Type T-IV which is the latest approved factory formulation for the power steering systems in these cars.
The timing belts (and usually water pumps) are due every 60K miles. If the car has sat for a very, very long time without use it would be good to inspect the timing belt to be sure it's in good shape. Plugs cap and rotor are also every 60k miles.
Good luck with your sale of the vehicle once the estate is all in order!
They were not a "limited run" but they were limited in availability from 1992-1997. The majority of SC300's were ordered by dealers with automatics and a few manuals. Buyers could also special order them. There were 3,883 stick models made total from 1992-1997. The SC400 (V8 model) was never offered with a stick from the factory.
Put a fresh battery in the vehicle and you'll be able to turn the key to to pre-ignition and see the real odometer reading, which is digital and requires electricity to view. (you'll want a battery rated 750CCA and do note which side the battery terminals are. If buying an Autozone Duralast you want a 24F-DLG I think but they or any battery seller will be able to look up your correct battery options. 750CCA is just a very good idea with these cars. Especially in colder climates).
If it has been seldom used you will want to change all the major fluids. Engine oil type is 10W-30. A recommended oil for the factory manual transmission is Redline MT-90. Rear differential oil is 75W-90 or 80W-90, synthetic preferred (Mobil 1, etc) every 30K. Recommended coolant is either Toyota Red 100% antifreeze with equal amounts of distilled water... or you can buy enough gallons of Toyota Pink 50/50 that are pre-mixed which you can pour right in. Important note: the correct power steering fluid is Automatic Transmission Fluid Dexron II/III type. DO NOT EVER USE COMMON POWER STEERING FLUID IN AN SC300 or SC400. Dexron IV ATF should be backwards compatible to II and III. Not sure about Dexron VI ATF. The most foolproof power steering fluid for the Lexus SC300 or SC400 is Toyota ATF Type T-IV which is the latest approved factory formulation for the power steering systems in these cars.
The timing belts (and usually water pumps) are due every 60K miles. If the car has sat for a very, very long time without use it would be good to inspect the timing belt to be sure it's in good shape. Plugs cap and rotor are also every 60k miles.
Good luck with your sale of the vehicle once the estate is all in order!
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Ezroni (05-02-17)
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If it has been seldom used you will want to change all the major fluids. Engine oil type is 10W-30. A recommended oil for the factory manual transmission is Redline MT-90. Rear differential oil is 75W-90 or 80W-90, synthetic preferred (Mobil 1, etc) every 30K. Recommended coolant is either Toyota Red 100% antifreeze with equal amounts of distilled water... or you can buy enough gallons of Toyota Pink 50/50 that are pre-mixed which you can pour right in. Important note: the correct power steering fluid is Automatic Transmission Fluid Dexron II/III type. DO NOT EVER USE COMMON POWER STEERING FLUID IN AN SC300 or SC400. Dexron IV ATF should be backwards compatible to II and III. Not sure about Dexron VI ATF. The most foolproof power steering fluid for the Lexus SC300 or SC400 is Toyota ATF Type T-IV which is the latest approved factory formulation for the power steering systems in these cars.
I would say since you are just getting the car running to sell, you can be a little less regimented in the things you do to the car to get it going than my fellow poster states quoted above. I find the bold caps item somewhat amusing. The pwr steering pump is a small hydraulic pump. As long as you use a somewhat close hydraulic rated oil it will work, you can use any Dexron atf, it doesn't have to be TOYOTA, you can even use Coastal from AutoZone or Dollar General. Hell, you can even use universal hydraulic fluid from your farm tractor if you have some of that laying around, it's just not that f'n critical. If the coolant has not been changed in forever and you want to change it, you can use the universal anti freeze coolant sold in any parts store. Once again, it's good enough and compatible, just don't use Dex Cool, that's some crap GM came up with. As far as the manual trans and diff, you probably don't need to fool with that just to get the car going, it's probably fine like it is and would just waste your time and money to deal with it if you are going to sell it. Motor oil, here's where you don't skimp, use a 10W-30 or close to it in a good synthetic like Mobil 1, etc. As suggested, check the timing belt, good advice, if it's not too old or many miles, just let it ride. If you do decide to change the timing belt, change the water pump at the same time just because you have to remove all of the timing belt stuff to get to it, somewhat annoying Toyota design on these engines.
Just an alternate view, but what do I know. If you get ready to sell it, I want first dibs.
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^^ On the contrary I think the more people with advice chiming in the better in order to help the OP. I really do not expect that all the things I mentioned above would need to be done. Mostly I mentioned them all to cover the bases in case something did need to be addressed before sale. No way should more than necessary work be done to a vehicle that is going to be sold in short order.
Your note about the power steering system is interesting and honestly teaches me something. For the longest time I have generally stuck to (and read from other SC, MKIV, GS and other 90's Toyota owners) that only a Dexron ATF II/III/IV or compatible fluid be used. The Toyota T-IV does not have to be what is used, no. It just took the guess work out for me when I couldn't seem to verify in plain writing a Dexron II/III/IV compatibility on the back of labels a while back. If Coastal ATF works then that's convenient advice. All this assumes the OP even needs to check the power steering fluid level in the first place. If there are no leaks, no problem.
Anyway, if the car really does have such low mileage I'd think changing the battery, coolant, engine oil and giving the other things mentioned a check (such as the timing belt to make sure it isn't too aged from sitting) would be enough. The maintenance records would indicate if any service is due but I would only do what is absolutely necessary and simply note the rest.
Your note about the power steering system is interesting and honestly teaches me something. For the longest time I have generally stuck to (and read from other SC, MKIV, GS and other 90's Toyota owners) that only a Dexron ATF II/III/IV or compatible fluid be used. The Toyota T-IV does not have to be what is used, no. It just took the guess work out for me when I couldn't seem to verify in plain writing a Dexron II/III/IV compatibility on the back of labels a while back. If Coastal ATF works then that's convenient advice. All this assumes the OP even needs to check the power steering fluid level in the first place. If there are no leaks, no problem.
Anyway, if the car really does have such low mileage I'd think changing the battery, coolant, engine oil and giving the other things mentioned a check (such as the timing belt to make sure it isn't too aged from sitting) would be enough. The maintenance records would indicate if any service is due but I would only do what is absolutely necessary and simply note the rest.
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Thanks for all the tips, we have got the ok from the attorney to proceed and now have to wait for a duplicate title ,we could not find the original one as of now which could take up to a month as the State on IL is pretty pokey being broke and all ;-(
We do have most of the vin cards since day one.. What I'm thinking here is that when we get back up to Lake Geneva, Wi I'm going to put a battery in the car to see if the motor turns and perhaps starts, Also will get the exact mileage. Roll the car out and take lots of pictures.
At this point that car has always been garage kept (garage is part of the house so there was some heat), Bodywork and interior look close to perfect, tires nice w/ no rot I can see and the motor compartment is very clean. Exterior is dusty as well as the interior. This was the original owners pride and joy.
If the motor spins free and it starts or attempts to w/ starting fluid I'm thinking about asking $6k. I believe in this condition the car is easily worth that just for parts alone. The family just does not want to futz with it too much as it brings up sad memories and its time that it goes as well as the home.
My personal thoughts would be to have the fuel system cleaned, fresh oil coolant brake flush. From what we believe the car was last run in 2014 but again were still going though a mountain of paperwork.
Color is the original red, has the original owners manual w/ keys as well as some misc paperwork. Car is located in Lake Geneva National Golf Course gated community, so I would also have to find out what the new owner would have to use to move the car out. Be in car hauler which they may not let in, if that were the case at a minim a tow truck to move the car from the home to the front gate to be put ob another mover. Car has always been titled in IL as the owners home was here in Chicago.
Just getting some ideas here, not wanting to give away but would like what I think its worth for the estate.
Thanks all
We do have most of the vin cards since day one.. What I'm thinking here is that when we get back up to Lake Geneva, Wi I'm going to put a battery in the car to see if the motor turns and perhaps starts, Also will get the exact mileage. Roll the car out and take lots of pictures.
At this point that car has always been garage kept (garage is part of the house so there was some heat), Bodywork and interior look close to perfect, tires nice w/ no rot I can see and the motor compartment is very clean. Exterior is dusty as well as the interior. This was the original owners pride and joy.
If the motor spins free and it starts or attempts to w/ starting fluid I'm thinking about asking $6k. I believe in this condition the car is easily worth that just for parts alone. The family just does not want to futz with it too much as it brings up sad memories and its time that it goes as well as the home.
My personal thoughts would be to have the fuel system cleaned, fresh oil coolant brake flush. From what we believe the car was last run in 2014 but again were still going though a mountain of paperwork.
Color is the original red, has the original owners manual w/ keys as well as some misc paperwork. Car is located in Lake Geneva National Golf Course gated community, so I would also have to find out what the new owner would have to use to move the car out. Be in car hauler which they may not let in, if that were the case at a minim a tow truck to move the car from the home to the front gate to be put ob another mover. Car has always been titled in IL as the owners home was here in Chicago.
Just getting some ideas here, not wanting to give away but would like what I think its worth for the estate.
Thanks all
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Admin,
Please do not delete this thread as the car is not for sale at this time, there is paperwork that has to be transferred as well as I have to take the time to run up and do a full inspection. I was asking guidelines as I'm totally unfamiliar with this model/car. The original owner always said that the car was a limited model because of the manual transmission.
So not being a car guy we were just trying to figure out what it actually would be worth, being that to myself the body, engine compartment and interior look like new or close to it we would hate to just give it away as what ever we get for it goes to the estate to offset other bills.
Thanks for any consideration
Please do not delete this thread as the car is not for sale at this time, there is paperwork that has to be transferred as well as I have to take the time to run up and do a full inspection. I was asking guidelines as I'm totally unfamiliar with this model/car. The original owner always said that the car was a limited model because of the manual transmission.
So not being a car guy we were just trying to figure out what it actually would be worth, being that to myself the body, engine compartment and interior look like new or close to it we would hate to just give it away as what ever we get for it goes to the estate to offset other bills.
Thanks for any consideration
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I will not, I posted that as I just read the warning not to do stuff like that. As soon as I can get out there I will delete this and will take it from there. Bottom line was just trying to get a idea of what the car is worth , not in for a profit just clearing the estate and would hate just to give it away.
Thanks
Thanks
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Admin,
Please remove post, I do not wish to get in trouble. I will be posting question though when I have a chance to go start the car.
Thanks all!
Please remove post, I do not wish to get in trouble. I will be posting question though when I have a chance to go start the car.
Thanks all!
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