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What your saying is pretty much every top audio manufacture that produces a capacitor is useless... (As you strongly stated over and over)
Thats not what I said, please re-read it. I said if you're listening to music, a capacitor will do you next to no good and even cause additional strain to the charging system. I don't know how many times I have to say it. A capacitor has a very specific use and situation where it's useful and there is a large market of people who build systems strictly to compete. I get the feeling you aren't reading anything I've typed. You're advice for anyone listening to music to buy a capacitor is bad advice.
Please, google information about capacitors in car audio systems, there is lots of information about the subject on multiple enthusiast sites like the12volt, bcae, realmofexcursion, caraudio.com and numerous other forums. Go ahead and google it and bring something back if you think you're right. I've already brought back one study on capacitors showing the voltage drop. It's been your turn for a while but you havent brought any information yet. You say you're an electrical engineer, this should be easy for you. After all I was just a lowly install tech with an advanced MECP certification 4 years ago, you should be blowing me out of the water with lots of new information. You should be advancing my knowledge base, bring me something that leads me further into knowing and wisdom. So far you've just been avoiding the argument and claiming "they wouldn't build them for no reason." At least touch on something substantive.
Originally Posted by MackOnDeez
I can go for hours about how wrong you really are
You've had plenty of chances to so far, and I'm always open to anything that makes sense. Why don't you point out where I'm wrong, instead of saying you could but just so far havent at all despite making multiple posts in this thread. My mind is never closed, and if you can put forth reasoning for why it's worth buying for someone aiming to listen to music you could very well change my opinion. That's all you have to do. But don't sit back and claim you have knowledge but just aren't willing to share it with us on this forum.
Very cool project, keep us posted. No matter what it is there will always be something better or different or more expensive so who cares if you COULD have spent 3k and get the best of the best or not. For this sub $500 setup this is awesome. I'm very interested in the free air sub too, I hate sub boxes taking up my trunk so please tell us if it sounds good.
Very cool project, keep us posted. No matter what it is there will always be something better or different or more expensive so who cares if you COULD have spent 3k and get the best of the best or not. For this sub $500 setup this is awesome. I'm very interested in the free air sub too, I hate sub boxes taking up my trunk so please tell us if it sounds good.
when it comes to "free air" the power will not mean as much as it usually does
the cone surface area is what matters here and having the right power not the MOST.
sub gets REALLY sensitive...
most free air subs are installed using what is called IB "Infinite Baffle"
in most cars this isnt "TRUE IB" its more loosely used since the way its setup.
most home entertainment systems that use IB have an open air back but isnt the size of a trunk. its usually a LONG hallway-like chamber opening for example
you can also use very low powered subs for this style of setup as well...
and most you wouldnt want to (but is possible but will sound weird)
if your interested in free air check these products out (not to many choices though)
- DLS OA10 (classic but very good when it comes to open air)
- Fi Q10 or SSD10 (these suckers are heavy like 50 pounds each) but boy do they work.
those are a few good ones ive used before.
they can sound very nice and produce a clean thump...
I'd like to tell you guys that I hit my mark at $500, but unfortunately I couldn't find this amp (including the terminal-covers) for anything less than $100 + $20 shipping (I wanted the latest gen. just like the other amp for the sub; that way they match - neatness counts! Haha). So my total has come to $555.09
Meh; I'm not too upset, but it woulda been ideal if I had it right on point
Welp!
Just waiting for it to arrive, and then ... Time to install!
So looking at the numbers (power/wattage), etc. how do you audiophiles think this will turn out?
I'd like to tell you guys that I hit my mark at $500, but unfortunately I couldn't find this amp (including the terminal-covers) for anything less than $100 + $20 shipping (I wanted the latest gen. just like the other amp for the sub; that way they match - neatness counts! Haha). So my total has come to $555.09
Meh; I'm not too upset, but it woulda been ideal if I had it right on point
Welp!
Just waiting for it to arrive, and then ... Time to install!
So looking at the numbers (power/wattage), etc. how do you audiophiles think this will turn out?
Im going to cookie cutter build an audio system for my soarer as well. You wont mind if I contact you for pointer right? Youre ****ing bomb bro!!!
So the amps arrived and man are these amps tiny
They're both the same size, even though they're different power outputs and styles (4ch / Mono). They're seriously about 10"x10" more or less.
Welp!
I've chosen to throw-in one more frugal-idea which I thinks gonna be a hit with those trying to budget-build ...
I figured if I'm gonna put together a quality sound system, then I may as well Dynamat the interior along with it. However, Dynamats way overpriced because of the name; so my friend Adam who sells McLaren/Porsche (and other exotics), suggested an alternative which to me, made perfect sense. I hit up Lowe's Hardware and went to the "roofing" section to pick up a roll(s) of patching-tape instead. It's called "Peel & Seal" and it's practically the same thing at a quarter of the price ($16/Roll). As soon as it's sunny again, I'm gonna start putting it down.
Oh yeas thanks for being guinea pig!! I have read super different outcomes from the peal N seal stuff. Some say it smells, others say its exactly the same. Cant wait to see how it turns out.
So I've finally got around to prepping the car for Dynamat (Peel & Seal); except it took longer than I expected, since I had to remove all this excess crap the original owner installed. Btw, I finally figured out what that mystery toggle-switch was (sorta); except it had nothing to do with the Trans, nor the ECU, oddly enough ...
It was wired to the antenna (which I garbaged; along with the entire OEM rear-deck, speakers, and subwoofer).
However, the other end was wired to this obscure box mounted behind that removable floor-plate in the rear. Can anyone tell me what it is? It's got an RJ-45 (ethernet) port in it ... Remember that mess of wires I talked about in the toggle-switch thread? This was all that.
In sum, it took me a while to remove all that extra BS, and it got dark; so now that it's all out of the way, tomorrow I'll begin vacuuming the floor, and then Peel & Seal-ing.
So as I suspected, the device pertains to the OEM cell phone, which these cars came with. In fact my car originally had an antenna for just that, on the rear windshield.
That can't be a factory phone setup. A) I've pulled one apart and didn't see any such box or wiring (the tranceiver is in the trunk, alongside the antenna), and B) factory wiring would be heavily taped, loomed, and tucked away.
A quick Google search shows the Audiovox CTX-3600A to be a cellular device, but it looks to be aftermarket. (I can't imagine Lexus used Audiovox as an OEM supplier.) A previous owner probably used it to replace or upgrade the factory setup.
That can't be a factory phone setup. A) I've pulled one apart and didn't see any such box or wiring (the tranceiver is in the trunk, alongside the antenna), and B) factory wiring would be heavily taped, loomed, and tucked away.
A quick Google search shows the Audiovox CTX-3600A to be a cellular device, but it looks to be aftermarket. (I can't imagine Lexus used Audiovox as an OEM supplier.) A previous owner probably used it to replace or upgrade the factory setup.
I've searched, but found nothing. Apparently it's a radio receiver, and helps secure the phone system from cloning. It also includes a feature to connect (answer) a call after two rings. However it's compatible with a PC or Printer which is what the RJ socket is for. Think it's still useful somehow though? If not I'll just trash it.
So today begins the sound-deadening ... So far - So good.
It's gotten dark again, so I'll have to finish up the rear-deck, floor, and doors, tomorrow. If I have enough left, I'll do the trunk lid also. Here's my progress.
08-10-15, 01:48 PM
