$3,000 USD to swap a motor!?!? In TX??
06-17-15, 12:14 PM
#63
whenever someone says friends help them with it make sure they know what they are doing, I always think of a couple horror stories of people swapping or going na-t and the car burning down cause its hard to check over everything if you do not do it yourself and usually the excitement of the first start sometimes people skip the steps that will ensure a safer first start.
so I'll give everyone a precautionary bit of advice they should learn right now about a first engine start.
the fuel rail feed line has a banjo fitting on it, and it has 2 copper crush washers, one on the top, and one on the bottom, the bolt goes through all 3 and tightens to the fuel rail. no matter who tells you they double checked it, double check yourself that the fuel feed line is properly bolted down before you ever even think about starting it up and you should be able to see both washers in place.
next precautionary step also before you think about starting the car is to find the diagnostic port and jump FP and B+ to turn the fuel pump on and pressurize the fuel rail. now get out your favorite flash light and scour the rail fittings, the feed line, the return line, the injector o-rings, the bottom injector grommets, there shouldn't be anything close to a leak or a drop coming out of anywhere. if there is then fix it and start the process over.
you can remove the jumper if you have passed this stage. also note some swap harnesses they remove the diagnostic port so its a bit tougher to pressurize the rail without the engine on.
only after you have confirmed you have no fuel leaks whatsoever should you proceed to start up the vehicle.
you wont believe how many people don't know of forget the copper crush washers that go on the fuel feed line, and they tend to drop, roll and disappear into the depths of the garage. I have had people pm'ing me asking why there rail is leaking there also and its quite a scary thought that someone can forget those, because as soon as the engine block heats up enough it will ignite any leaking gas and then you just lost your whole car. if you have a leak there that can usually burn the whole front of the car down.
other than that not many ways to mess up a swap more or less everything bolts in place on these cars.
Plan it out with an extra day or 2 for things that might pop up.
so I'll give everyone a precautionary bit of advice they should learn right now about a first engine start.
the fuel rail feed line has a banjo fitting on it, and it has 2 copper crush washers, one on the top, and one on the bottom, the bolt goes through all 3 and tightens to the fuel rail. no matter who tells you they double checked it, double check yourself that the fuel feed line is properly bolted down before you ever even think about starting it up and you should be able to see both washers in place.
next precautionary step also before you think about starting the car is to find the diagnostic port and jump FP and B+ to turn the fuel pump on and pressurize the fuel rail. now get out your favorite flash light and scour the rail fittings, the feed line, the return line, the injector o-rings, the bottom injector grommets, there shouldn't be anything close to a leak or a drop coming out of anywhere. if there is then fix it and start the process over.
you can remove the jumper if you have passed this stage. also note some swap harnesses they remove the diagnostic port so its a bit tougher to pressurize the rail without the engine on.
only after you have confirmed you have no fuel leaks whatsoever should you proceed to start up the vehicle.
you wont believe how many people don't know of forget the copper crush washers that go on the fuel feed line, and they tend to drop, roll and disappear into the depths of the garage. I have had people pm'ing me asking why there rail is leaking there also and its quite a scary thought that someone can forget those, because as soon as the engine block heats up enough it will ignite any leaking gas and then you just lost your whole car. if you have a leak there that can usually burn the whole front of the car down.
other than that not many ways to mess up a swap more or less everything bolts in place on these cars.
Plan it out with an extra day or 2 for things that might pop up.
06-19-15, 05:26 AM
#64
turn the fuel pump on and pressurize the fuel rail. now get out your favorite flash light and scour the rail fittings, the feed line, the return line, the injector o-rings, the bottom injector grommets, there shouldn't be anything close to a leak or a drop coming out of anywhere. if there is then fix it and start the process over.
seen a car burn down because of a fuel leak ...back fire at start up .. . kaboom .
06-24-15, 02:17 AM
#67
Gerrb, I wish I could go faster but no, not quite yet. I have a small handful very common parts left to buy but that's easy. I have all the rare parts I need now. The focus is on the engine harness and cylinder head rebuild before I can really begin.
Last edited by KahnBB6; 06-24-15 at 02:21 AM.
06-28-15, 07:41 PM
#68
Pretty stoked...getting VVTI 1JZGTE with R154
So I've decided to go VVTI 1JZ route. It's less common, I like that. I'm actually putting a downpayment on her tomorrow to hold it. It's a vvti 1jz with a R154, comes with harness, ecu, pretty much everything. Then I am getting my harness done with Dr. Tweak sometime in July and then dropping it in with my friends motor hoist.
I will be purchasing it from JDMenginedepot. I spoke with Will and he seems nice enough. Tomorrow we are going to arrange everything. Wish me luck.
Also, is there anything specific that I should look for in the photos? Anything I should ask for a specific picture of? Any tests I should ask if he's ran?
I will be purchasing it from JDMenginedepot. I spoke with Will and he seems nice enough. Tomorrow we are going to arrange everything. Wish me luck.
Also, is there anything specific that I should look for in the photos? Anything I should ask for a specific picture of? Any tests I should ask if he's ran?
06-28-15, 08:08 PM
#69
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Man just DIY. I pulled my motor out in less than 4 hours and that was with taking my time and basic hand tools. Just take your time and save yourself the trouble and money.
06-28-15, 10:31 PM
#71
That's a great choice, ashtray! I think you'll be very happy with it. And you have options to upgrade/rebuild or replace that stock turbo. The main thing I recommend with the 1JZ VVT-i is to grab one of the cam seal kits, valve cover gasket sets and general seal/gasket kits for it from Driftmotion.
A small handful of those gaskets and seals are VVT-i specific and not available in the US parts system. Though once you have the part numbers for them you can order them from an importer as well.
A small handful of those gaskets and seals are VVT-i specific and not available in the US parts system. Though once you have the part numbers for them you can order them from an importer as well.
06-29-15, 07:54 AM
#72
So I've decided to go VVTI 1JZ route. It's less common, I like that. I'm actually putting a downpayment on her tomorrow to hold it. It's a vvti 1jz with a R154, comes with harness, ecu, pretty much everything. Then I am getting my harness done with Dr. Tweak sometime in July and then dropping it in with my friends motor hoist.
I will be purchasing it from JDMenginedepot. I spoke with Will and he seems nice enough. Tomorrow we are going to arrange everything. Wish me luck.
Also, is there anything specific that I should look for in the photos? Anything I should ask for a specific picture of? Any tests I should ask if he's ran?
I will be purchasing it from JDMenginedepot. I spoke with Will and he seems nice enough. Tomorrow we are going to arrange everything. Wish me luck.
Also, is there anything specific that I should look for in the photos? Anything I should ask for a specific picture of? Any tests I should ask if he's ran?
post up some pictures for us....I assume the vvti is going to come with tripod r154
06-29-15, 09:06 AM
#73
I highly recommend anyone but tweaked. Seriously. Also, is this a front sump jzx100 engine? If so, you'll need to swap oil pans and fabricate something for the oil return line since it's different than Soarer return line (I did Soarer 1j into x chassis), also, avoid any drive by wire engine set.
I can't stress enough how bad tweaked sucks.
Also, there's a guy named Nick iirc on jzxworld out of NZ who has better prices than fm on the gasket set. Wanna say a friend just paid right under $500 shipped for gasket set/water pump/tensioners.
Water pump pulley has a smaller bolt pattern than 2j, so either get a supra water pump and pulley and fan clutch/ etc or find this nick I speak of. Shipping was actually faster from NZ than anything I've ever received from DM. Make sure you get the MaF from the importer. All standard stuff applies here, do he basic maintenance.
Stock clutch will work great up to 375 tq, so if it's nice, don't worry about it. Do a Trans rear seal as well.
Where are you in tx? I just did a 171 engine in a cressida, doing this current 100 engine in a 89 gx81 I imported for a customer right now, have ran this engine in my own cressida for about 3 years daily with a holset. Lots of fun.
Seriously, F tweaked. Try panicwire. Have any specific questions hit me up, I'm in Austin area
I can't stress enough how bad tweaked sucks.
Also, there's a guy named Nick iirc on jzxworld out of NZ who has better prices than fm on the gasket set. Wanna say a friend just paid right under $500 shipped for gasket set/water pump/tensioners.
Water pump pulley has a smaller bolt pattern than 2j, so either get a supra water pump and pulley and fan clutch/ etc or find this nick I speak of. Shipping was actually faster from NZ than anything I've ever received from DM. Make sure you get the MaF from the importer. All standard stuff applies here, do he basic maintenance.
Stock clutch will work great up to 375 tq, so if it's nice, don't worry about it. Do a Trans rear seal as well.
Where are you in tx? I just did a 171 engine in a cressida, doing this current 100 engine in a 89 gx81 I imported for a customer right now, have ran this engine in my own cressida for about 3 years daily with a holset. Lots of fun.
Seriously, F tweaked. Try panicwire. Have any specific questions hit me up, I'm in Austin area
06-29-15, 02:21 PM
#74
That's a great choice, ashtray! I think you'll be very happy with it. And you have options to upgrade/rebuild or replace that stock turbo. The main thing I recommend with the 1JZ VVT-i is to grab one of the cam seal kits, valve cover gasket sets and general seal/gasket kits for it from Driftmotion.
A small handful of those gaskets and seals are VVT-i specific and not available in the US parts system. Though once you have the part numbers for them you can order them from an importer as well.
A small handful of those gaskets and seals are VVT-i specific and not available in the US parts system. Though once you have the part numbers for them you can order them from an importer as well.
I highly recommend anyone but tweaked. Seriously. Also, is this a front sump jzx100 engine? If so, you'll need to swap oil pans and fabricate something for the oil return line since it's different than Soarer return line (I did Soarer 1j into x chassis), also, avoid any drive by wire engine set.
I can't stress enough how bad tweaked sucks.
Also, there's a guy named Nick iirc on jzxworld out of NZ who has better prices than fm on the gasket set. Wanna say a friend just paid right under $500 shipped for gasket set/water pump/tensioners.
Water pump pulley has a smaller bolt pattern than 2j, so either get a supra water pump and pulley and fan clutch/ etc or find this nick I speak of. Shipping was actually faster from NZ than anything I've ever received from DM. Make sure you get the MaF from the importer. All standard stuff applies here, do he basic maintenance.
Stock clutch will work great up to 375 tq, so if it's nice, don't worry about it. Do a Trans rear seal as well.
Where are you in tx? I just did a 171 engine in a cressida, doing this current 100 engine in a 89 gx81 I imported for a customer right now, have ran this engine in my own cressida for about 3 years daily with a holset. Lots of fun.
Seriously, F tweaked. Try panicwire. Have any specific questions hit me up, I'm in Austin area
I can't stress enough how bad tweaked sucks.
Also, there's a guy named Nick iirc on jzxworld out of NZ who has better prices than fm on the gasket set. Wanna say a friend just paid right under $500 shipped for gasket set/water pump/tensioners.
Water pump pulley has a smaller bolt pattern than 2j, so either get a supra water pump and pulley and fan clutch/ etc or find this nick I speak of. Shipping was actually faster from NZ than anything I've ever received from DM. Make sure you get the MaF from the importer. All standard stuff applies here, do he basic maintenance.
Stock clutch will work great up to 375 tq, so if it's nice, don't worry about it. Do a Trans rear seal as well.
Where are you in tx? I just did a 171 engine in a cressida, doing this current 100 engine in a 89 gx81 I imported for a customer right now, have ran this engine in my own cressida for about 3 years daily with a holset. Lots of fun.
Seriously, F tweaked. Try panicwire. Have any specific questions hit me up, I'm in Austin area
06-29-15, 08:26 PM
#75
Got photos of exactly mine. I asked for the video and if he says anything like "we can't" or some dodgy thing, I'll use it as leverage to drop the price a bit. Hopefully he can pull through with it.
Does anyone want photos of a vvti 1jz with r154?
Does anyone want photos of a vvti 1jz with r154?
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