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Looks great. Make sure you don't use too much FIPG on those oil pan gaskets. Too much and they leak. Not enough and they leak. You really have to follow the recommendations of the FSM as far as the width of the bead.
I have been watching your builds for the past few years
Originally Posted by 97-SC300
At this point the goal is a max of 1000hp, and a respectable 700-800 daily mid boost level. Last summer the car got a total of about 10k miles on it daily driving in the summer months from june-october
Words can simply not explain the admiration I have for your build. I own one 2 actually sc300 and sc430 and I want to get rid of both of them to have something similar to what you are building. I am out of the country right now and when I return I would like to see it in person if possible? Way to go!
Im pulling my twins as well and going single as I type but Hell when I get it back I will probably do what you have done just go through the whole car. I wont cludder up your posts with the pics of my car but I do have to say I am jealous in a good way.
I have a really noob question been wanting to ask, I don't care anymore if I'd look stupid, LOL. But anyways, from what I understand, the only difference of the GE to the GTE block, is the oil squirters right? If you deleted the oil squirters, then can one simply swap the head of a GTE to a GE block? Instead of buying the entire engine?
Might be too late to ask, but did you measure the washers that came with your studs? ARP has a history of utilizing undersized washers with their stud kits for the 2JZ up until 2-3 months ago. Most guys use the factory Toyota washers due to this. They did recently correct it. If you use the smaller ones they will eventually seat into the cylinder head and you lose clamping force. The toyota ones are the correct size that fit the machining for the cyl head. If you have the smaller ones I would suggest swapping them out so you don't have issues down the road.