OG Dada

iTrader: (10)

Oh yeah, I forgot to add, I sprinkle a little bit of fairy dust to make it look sparkly and shine very bright at night! LOL

I watch too much Disney channel with my daughter...

It's my camera. GoPro have a wide angle lens, therefore the pic you're looking at right there may look like a straight forward shot, but it's actually a full 170º view. Like I said, I don't have a good camera right now, as I broke it in our last trip to Disneyland. LOL

You can see a distortion of a supposed straight line in the second pic of the fence.

t2d2

iTrader: (8)

Ok, I'll withhold judgment until seeing a better pic. I was just worried that it gives a very limited view down the road now, which is equally dangerous for being seen by oncoming traffic.

Kris9884

iTrader: (7)

What kind of bulbs/Ballasts are you running?

OG Dada

iTrader: (10)

That would kinda defeat the purpose of doing a retrofit if it doesn't illuminate the parts or sides of the the road that needs to be illuminated. Pics doesn't do the work justice, but seeing it in person is night and day difference with OEM. The focus is fully adjustable still btw to your own liking. And I'm pretty sure there's more than a handful of people that have done the retrofit can give a review of these projectors as well.

The bulbs size the TSX projectors use is D2S. I bought it from DDM Tuning, 5k - which is what OEM equipped cars use. The finish of the glass give it a bluish hue when looking directly at it, but the projection is very close to natural light so it looks amazing compared to 6k and up bulbs.

Kira X

iTrader: (24)

The light projection is insane compared to stock. I need a set of lights like these.

With my current headlights I can only see about three or four feet in front of the car. It's scary to drive at night.

dricacho

Would love to do this to my SC once I've addressed all the important issues on her.

kez

iTrader: (4)

Damnnn they came out awesome

Barbary

Nice job on the head lites. Anyway of doing that to tail lite interiors?
I've got about 25yrs of gunk & smoke built up in my tail lite interiors. Anyway to clean them?

Blkexcoupe

iTrader: (8)

The restoration looks amazing. What range of gritts do you use when sanding if you don't mind sharing?

OG Dada

iTrader: (10)

Thanks kez!

Not sure what you mean sir, anyway you can post a pic? The inside of the tail lights doesn't have chrome reflectors, it's just painted silver, that I can fix. Not sure about what you mean by smoke and gunk, is it cracked? Or just leaking water?

I just buy this bunch from AutoZone that goes 220,400, 800, 1000 & 1200.

Blkexcoupe

iTrader: (8)

Thank you

The lowest I've ever done is 600, but I guess I'll try sanding down to 220 and 400 next time.

Barbary

Sorry, I just meant cleaning the interior side of the lenses. They are not damaged in anyway just 25yrs old and have never been cleaned - 92 SC

Studiogeek

iTrader: (6)

Those are 5K bulbs. They are wonderfully bright. KP told me that the blue/green hue comes off of the finish on the projector lens.

eknine9

iTrader: (8)

Exactly the blue/green hue should appear as a flicker to an observer who is above the cutoff of the projector lens. Due to the angle of the projector shield as the light crosses it it can cause a slight refraction to the very top portion of the light output as shorter and shorter wavelengths can make it through the closer the light gets to the shield.

So as an observer looking from above the cutoff line you see indirect, reflected light that has bounced around the projector lens itself that isn't as bright co-mingled with the blue hues from the cutoff, then as an observer moves down and crosses the cutoff line they'll see a blue flicker before they see pure white light once they are observing from below the cutoff line.

So the actual blue hue that everyone chases isn't coming from bulb color but from an angled cutoff in a projector housing.




Here's a proper unhindered cutoff, you can see the color shift that happens from white to blue to purple, to light background glow to nothing. As an observer crosses the cutoff they see the flicker.

Of course there are several mods individuals can do to a projector shield and projector housing to influence the color, vibrancy, or area of the colorful cutoff, and some projector shields have less of a cutoff, and there is a difference in cutoff between fresnel and clear lens projctors as well. Some shields have even have an almost invisible cutoff, which is more efficient but loses some of the "look at that" effect of a color mod. Some people even go crazy with mods that come out like this, which was accomplished by placing washers on the mount for the projctor shield forcing to tilt farther away from the light source.




This provides an even more vibrant flicker to observers as they cross above and below the cutoff line. There are even crazier mods done by some to achieve ridiculous flickering affects above the cutoff line. Such as cutting a slit in the projector shielding itself to create more artificial flicker to observers without crazy angles to the shield itself, such as this retrofit.

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/lig...ml#post5326809

Unfortunately a lot of people don't realize where, why, or how the flicker comes from, and they just buy ricey colored bulbs without any thought for usable light below the cutoff line, or poor reflections/glare on wet roads. Obviously I'm talking about the 8000k and up crowd, but honestly these days I even consider 6000k to be a little ricey. I have 3 sets of bulbs currently for my low beams, a 4500k, 5000k, and 5300k. I can scarcely tell the difference between the 4500k, 5000k and 5300k, I even tried putting one on one side, and another on the other side and I could only tell that they were different, my eyes had trouble figuring out which was which if I didn't already know. I'm only running the 5000k's because one of the 5300k's was faulty when I bought it, they've since sent me another pair for free, but I don't see any point in switching them out now since the bulbs have a burn in period and I like how my set looks now.
*EDIT* - Just went through my garage stuff and realized I actually have the 4500k's in my car right now, the 5000k's and 5300k's are sitting comfortably in their boxes right now. So obviously what I said above about the 4500k's being a touch too yellow for my liking was wrong, which was why I removed it, and clearly I can't even tell the difference among the 3 which is just proving my point that the difference among these colors is extremely subtle and up to preference. *EDIT*

Anyways, sorry for the ramble. I just spent most of last summer trying to get my brain wrapped around all of this stuff, and I think a good retrofit does wonders for the modernity, safety, and driving comfort of these cars.

Studiogeek

iTrader: (6)

SORRY?, That was awesome!!!!!!

Thank You!