thebadz32

iTrader: (5)

Help! 1997 sc300 power window issue. This has happened to me a few times espically when I tried to roll the window up with the door open but this time its not comeing up. Anyways a few times ive went to roll my window up and nothing happens the window doesnt move and the switch just makes a howling noise. But after I turned car off and on it would finally roll up this time its not working. When this happens the passenger window also will not come up nor go down just a howl from the switch. Ive checked all fuese and relays. Ive changed both passenger and driver side window switches. I have now pulled the door panel off the cable is still all atached and not broken everything looks to be in place. This really has me thrown off that the passanger side wont work eaither. Im so lost. If the motor froze up could this cause the window switch to make a howling sound and also cause the pass side not to go up or down? Or do I have some sort of electrical issue? Any help greatly appricated. This is my daily driver and iys sapose to rain the next 3 days.

t2d2

iTrader: (8)

If it affects both windows at the same time, I would guess it's a bare wire shorting out. You said it happens more often with the door open, which would fit with the theory that you've got some damaged wiring through the door jamb.

thebadz32

iTrader: (5)

Havent really spend much time there but I did briefly look and the rubber boot is still iver the wireing so I wouldnt think there would be any damage.. I looked around by interior fusebox aswell and I didnt see any wireing that didnt look normal no aftermarket alarm or any of that nature tied in. One thing I forgot to mention when I hold driver window switch as its howling the door locks and unlocks wich is also strange.

t2d2

iTrader: (8)

That makes me think even more that you've got a bad wire or three making contact. I wouldn't expect the rubber boot to be a reliable means of telling if the wiring is okay... Consider how many times over the years those wires are being bent back and forth via the opening and closing of the door. From what others have said, the problem is often water getting into the boot and having no where to go. Maybe poke a hole in the bottom and see if water drains out?

thebadz32

iTrader: (5)

Yeah I wasnt able to do any searching theres a lightning storm passing through so all of the expensive electronics at my house are unpluged and phone wont allow me to search but ill will definately try that once the rain slows down and I can get back out into the garage. I hope thats it. Previous owner has done some wireing somewhere for 75w hid kits in fogs and headlights and the switch operation is reverse turn tje fobs on head lights come on and visa versa I guess ill be removing all of that aswell if I cant see anything in tje door wireing. Wireing im not my strong suite lol

thebadz32

iTrader: (5)

I was able to push the window up as the switch made that noise but it was really hard to push up wich leads me to think it could pissibly be motor?

t2d2

iTrader: (8)

Definite possibility, but that wouldn't explain why it happens to both windows simultaneously. Seems more likely it's a loss of voltage to the motor(s).

I would probably take it to a car stereo shop and let them run some tests. They've got the tools to quickly diagnose the connections throughout the door.

thebadz32

iTrader: (5)

Yeah thats whats throwing me off the most... the noise I hear really seems like its coming from the switch itself but im not 100% for sure and when I do it I definately feel a light bibration in the switch. I also feel a minor vibration on tje botor when it does it to but I think its traveling tjrough the wireing and making the motor feel like its doing something but not. That noise only happens when I try the driver side. Nothing at all happens when I use the pass side switch or the pass side window switch from driver side. The driver window controll only seems to be the only one to make noise. Just neither go up or down. I pulled the speaker out of door felt all up and down wireing followed it through door into car it all seems fine however I didnt take it out. I kinda think somehow way or another the driver window motor is froze up and causing some sort of short. I have a parts car here its a 93 though. And I know the regulator is broke im not sure if the motor is good or not I dont remember and there is no motor or wireing harness in car to check it. Plus im not sure is the motor would even be intwrchangeable. I know through the years the regulator asemblys changed and got longer not sure about motor

thebadz32

iTrader: (5)

Wish I had the tool to take those little window lock things out. Using chanel locks or vise grips sucks lol

t2d2

iTrader: (8)

Which part? Do you mean the window/lock control switches? You can lift up the front edge with a small flat head screw driver and then pull it out by hand, if so.

Redtallman

iTrader: (1)

Had the same thing happen on my 1998. like the other guy said it the wiring in the rubber boot going to the door. If it sounds like a little buzzer then its a broken wire in the loom. Had to do it on my 1995 sc300 also I think it was a blue wire with white stripe but don't quote me. when you pull the rubber back you have to pull it back pretty far. What I ended up doing was tug on each individual wire until you find the broken wire. Its a thread on here talking about this very same thing but its pretty old. But yeah the buzzing at the switch is a broken wire took me like 10 minutes to fix.