Im looking at transmission options for my build. gonna be a weekend warrior and take it to the strip often since there is one 20 minutes from where I live.

So here is my question,
what would be a better setup for the strip (and racing on the way there)

a cd009 with 3.26 rear end
or a ar5 with 3.76 rear end

feel free to chime in other options. and my pockets are not deep enough for a v160 lol

 

Loaded question. There are a few threads about both options by now.

The two options are in very different classes.

The AR5 is really just a smoother shifting R154. The ratios are nice and wide so you can usually avoid the extra shift in the 1/4 mile if you're making some serious power. Power handling? Lets say around 700tq. They start having issues before that power level but they won't explode and it's been 'guestimated' that the AR5 version might be a fix for it. Since GM never pushed more than 260tq through it, I don't know if the pressure issue at high RPM and high power has been addressed.

The CD009 is basically analogous to a v160 but more modern. It is MUCH smoother than the R154. It's even smoother than the V160. With that rear end, it should be same same amount of shifting as the v160. Power handling? You name it. They have been pushed beyond 1200rwhp. They're stupid cheap for what you get out of them. The adapter plate is less than ideal and somewhat cumbersome.

 

that's what I have heard about the cd009. ive read the one thread on here about a cd009 swap on an sc400 and it just doesn't seem all that great (wide shift pattern, massive extension)
I haven't heard much about the ar5. Realistically, ill be around 6-700 hp (pretty sure im gonna go with an s363 or s362) and the ar5 is pretty much a straight swap with the 1jz.

I have heard of a solstice with a 2jz with a ar5. I also know that the ar5 has been behind blown ls motors. So I am sure it will handle my power level.

but from what you said about the gearing, the 5 speed would overall be faster down the strip?

 

It's gonna depend on the rear ratio more than anything for the 1/4 mile.
The AR5 is bolt on to a 1JZ/2JZ but the shifter is definitely not.

Not sure what the 'wide shift pattern' is exactly. My CD009 with stock shifter has shorter throws than my R154 with C's short shifter. I would be suspicious that someone extended the CD009 shifter improperly.

Either way ya go, shifter location will be an issue.

 

If its mainly a strip car I'd say built auto. You won't make a 5 speed do better than that. But I guess you'd still drive it on the street in which case, auto isn't so fun.

 

if the car was only going to be a drag car, it would be a built auto (even though it started as an original 93 5 speed)

but would a 3.26 diff be better suited for the track? or would that fall out of the powerband with a 5 speed?

 

3.26 rear plus R154 combo here. It's GREAT on the highway but can't comment on 1/4 mile performance or 60 foot. I just started tuning my AEM and didn't set up 2-step yet. With a mid size single and 3.26/R154 combo first gear pretty much always bogs. I'll see how it does with a little boost at launch but as of right now the 3.9 or 4.08 with R154 is the only well documented combo.

A few people warn that the 3.26 with R154 combo will result in shifts that fall out of boost. Absolutely untrue. I shift at 7500 and am fully spooled by 4000 so theres no time where the combo doesn't work besides potentially launch. I should have a better feel in a month or so when it gets warm enough to throw slicks on.

 

you already have the 4.08 something rear end if it is a stock 5 speed rear end. just throw the AR5 on there already and boost away. If you have to shift before you reach the finish line, drop to a lower rear end and throw an LSD on there like a 3.7 auto tt one.
3.26 is tough to get talked into you either like it or you don't.

Intimazy I am pretty sure setting up that 2 -step will change your launch feel a large amount.

 

1st gear bogging... sounds like I might add some nitrous if I think ill be able to hook up with it.

I would stay with stock rear end, but since ill be driving it still and racing to the strip and what not, a 3.76 sounds like the way to go.
I think with the 4.08 gears, it will force me to shift at the end. which wouldn't be a problem with an auto but yea autos are not fun on the street!
but lets say if I put a kaaz lsd in the stock rear end, if I didn't like the gear set would I be able to take the lsd out and through it in lets say a 3.76 gear set?

 

It depends on how fast you get to speed, but you may be able to redline it for a sec depending on where that is set 3.76 may help out quite a bit.

you can throw the lsd unit into any of the auto or 5 speed diffs to get the desired gear ratio. The 3.76 is from an auto tt though, so consider going with a regular auto tt diff with lsd.
The Kaaz is going to be more aggressive than factory to say the least.

 

I don't think the torsen lsd is going to last long / do that great of a job
from what ive read on the supraforums, the power level I want to be at the torsen lsd causes a lot of wheel hop.

I was wondering what rear end drag racers use with the r154.
anyone have some first hand experience?

 

I went with a Kaaz myself. I have a decent amount of experience with Helicals from road racing (Quaife, Torsen, and Trutracs specifically) and they are amazing units. However, they are not for drag racing. They work well and are reliable but there's a very specific issue with how they function at high power..

If you watch a handful of high power Supras launch you'll notice that the Torsen cars all have a pretty signature 'wobble' or 'wag' at launch compared to the clutch pack equipped cars. Clutch LSD's aren't necessarily faster, they're just more consistent.

On the street? The Torsen is seamless and smooth. You can literally forget you have a LSD. The Kaaz is not as friendly. Even with the quiet version, the wheels will lock up and skip in corners at low speeds. It locks up HARD. Makes it GREAT for all weather use. The 2-way model works incredibly well in the streets and because of our long wheelbases, lockup on decal is not an issue.

Wheelhop is more of a suspension/drivetrain loading and unloading. Solid bushings improve or eliminate it depending on platform. LSD may help but it doesn't address the mechanism of the problem.

 

Oh and in terms of lifespan? The Torsen life expectancy is pretty much unlimited. They don't need a rebuild or have any parts that need replacing. No special fluids. No rebuilds.

Clutchpack LSD's will wear out the clutch packs. Plus they recommend regular draining and replacing of the diff fluid basically at the same time as you would change your motor oil.

 

so are you saying that on the strip that their is not much difference between a torsen and a clutchpack lsd?

Would I expect either one to fail at 6-700 hp?