FML SC300 has gremlins.... rough start, won't shift, NEED HELP!
 

first off, thanks for all the threads. i use them a LOT and haven't had to post much yet.

ok here we go...
1995 SC300 a/t 245k

check engine light is on
traction control off light is on
trans won't shift out of third. i have to do 1st and 2nd manually, no OD
engine 'redlines' about 2500 rpm
seems like it got hot somewhere along the way, developed a crack in the top part of the radiator


what i've done-
r2 cap and rotor
r2 coil
checked timing belt- it's there
pulled o2 sensors to check for clogged cat. no change, just awesomely loud

took it to oreillys for a scan, they had the under the dash plug. no communication. went to a shop for a scan- they that had the rectangle plug for under the hood. no communication.

i'm about at wit's end. any ideas?

fix your radiator before you overheat it and hate yourself

get a paperclip, jump the te1 to e1 ports under the hood in the diagnostic port and count the sequence of times your check engine light flashes on the dash. Use search and you will see in more detail how to do this.

Whats your trans fluid look like first off? you likely have a bunch of tranny codes. Personally i would find a shop who has the correct scanner to read your codes and trans codes like a solus.

That might not be an option for you so do a search and iirc there is a way to read trans codes on your own.

i'm keeping coolant in it and next trip to the store i'm going to epoxy the hole. its in a good spot to fix. if it doesn't hold, radiator its getting swapped. i figure i'll fix all the other crap first

i haven't jumped it yet. the CEL is only on when the car is running. can i do it then or is it normally read in the acc position?

haven't looked at trans fluid. mechanic said this is like safe mode and normal behavior if something is wrong. i'll look tonight

closest toyota dealer is 40 miles, lexus is 60. i'm trying to avoid going out there, but it's an option

Replace the radiator, now. Like right now. Best bet is an aluminum eBay deal for a mk4 supra. $130 shipped usually, the stock ones crack because of age. It's common. Take a paper clip and jump the pins in the diagnostic box like the other guy said, turn car to on position but do not fire. If you don't understand this google search how to check codes obd1 sc300. This is really simple. If my gf can adjust her safr you can check codes

Things I think might be your problem is tps or ecu.

Yup, radiator is priority 2, just want to make sure the car isn't toast before I order one (it's a 3rd vehicle). Thanks for the tip on the aluminum one! I was just going to order an oem one from amazon or something. It's the same price for the cool guy one! I'm sure it's the original one...

I'll check the computer code in the AM. It's cold and dark, and I hate both!

Car isn't toast, they're resilient. Can understand not wanting to spend money before figuring out the problem.

You should fix it with a 1jz swap!

Check ECU for bad Caps, leaking, burnt, etc...

Okay, dumb question time. The check engine light is only on when the engine is running. Is it safe to connect the diagnostics things with a paperclip with the vehicle running? The directions on this site say to do it just with the vehicle in the on position, not running

id follow the directions.

Engine running = check engine light
Engine not running and key in on position as per directions = no check engine light.

Directions don't do me much good. Just want to make sure I'm not going to blow something up by starting the car with the paperclip in it

id ask the professionals, i suck lol

I suck too, that's why I'm here! Hahahahaa!

have someone hold the paperclip while you start it?

why are you trying to start it to check eng codes? the light comes on when you start the car and is normal meaning it has codes.

just stick the paperclip in te1 and e1, hop in the car and turn the key to on but dont start it. the eng light will flash. count the flashes and check online what the codes are.

one of the easiest things to do..