Heated seats/Trac Cotrol?

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06-04-14, 04:48 PM

#16

t2d2

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Ali SC3

I think its saying 7 is a 12V wire, and 8 is the ground since its always continuous with ground.

The only way I could see that being the case is if the two switches (driver and passenger) are connected internally. Wire #7 goes to one switch and #8 goes to the other, so I would think they have to both be power or both be ground or they can't serve the same function. But, if one is power and one is ground, and there are additional wires inside under the white cover, then that would make sense.

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Its really hard to say which way its wired I haven't looked at the schematic at all.

I have and I don't understand it.

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there could be a relay stock, or it could be a more simple connection.
since the switch can come on without the heater working according to that thread I would lean towards relay, as if it was power straight to the seat and then the switch on the ground side, it wouldn't light up without the seat having current going through it. on the other hand it could be the switch is the relay itself, I haven't looked at one closely to see how many wires are coming out of it, if just 2 then a plain switch, if more then likely a relay.

Poo, that theory would make it impossible for me to test the switch without a working seat heater connected.

Well, there are four wires total for the two switches, with two being the murky #7/8 wires. The #3/10 wires are presumably for the on/off signal to each respective seat heater. So, you could look at it as 2 in (power & ground) and one out for each side. Does that sound like a switch or a relay?

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I was wondering if it was 12v heater so you answered that pretty much.
all 12V wires in the car that already have power are fused, question is how much and can it handle the additional amps even if you tapped into an existing circuit.

It's definitely fused, based on the schematic. And I'm willing to bet that that slot is empty on mine, if I were to ever figure out how to access it. (I feel like my odds would be better through the firewall!)

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If the fuse is not there already I would guess alot of the other stuff is missing, I would just install it externally like an aftermarket one.

Yeah, I suspect you're right.

This looks like it could quickly escalate into something beyond my ability to decipher if it requires more than adding a missing fuse, i.e., trying in a missing relay and who knows what else.

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I can remove my bezel and take a picture of the wires going into the heater buttons if that helps any.

That might be useful, since I would need to figure out what the inputs to the switches are on the 11-pin harness and tap power/ground into them. It sounds like they're probably the #7/8 wires discussed above, but I'd rather not guess at it.

Actually, #8 ground has no reason to be an interrupted path when fuse-less, so it's probably just #7 power that I would have to tap into.