DIrEctQL

My car is in need some new bushings so I am looking at the choices I have:

1. Daizen bushings from TMEngineering (seem over priced).

2. Stock bushings (9.99 per bushing)

3. Supra TT bushings (???)

4. TRD bushings (???)

I guess I am trying to check out the choices so I don't make a mistake by buyng something that's way over prices (Daizen bushings).

Chris

pcmw

DIrEctQL,

Hmm..

What bushings are you talking about?

Sway bar bushings from Daizen are only $29 for front and rear.

However,

If you are talking about Control Arm bushings....then you are way off.

Daizens at $99 are a STEAL.

Stock ... Have to buy the whole arm $370+

TT Stock...same deal about $380

TRD...doesn't make control arm bushings for an SC.

However, if you want a factory style bushing from Australia it comes out about $380 + $600 install because they are metal casings that have to be carefully pressed into the old arm. So you might as well buy new arms.

With all that said....I say that Daizens are a STEAL and killer upgrade. Hope you try them and see the difference for yourself.

MW

DIrEctQL

Sorry, I am talking about control arm busings. Stock bushing part numbers are 48190-14040 and 48190-24020. I belive they are available from www.parts.com for around 9 bucks each. My friend was telling me about the TRD bushings that fit the Supra. So who knows, I will ask more about this. I guess the Daizens aren't too much overpriced, but they still are.

pcmw

DIrEctQL,

Myself and several others have tried ordering those from parts.com to find that they are not the bushings you want.

Sad but true.... If it were that easy then the 3 international companies that have tried to fix this problem have all seriously wasted their time. The only Supra TRD bushings I found were made for a MK3 not a MK4 Supra. I even called Japan for the part and they said no go. Not sure if I would want that kinda stiffness in that bushing either.

Best of luck, however, others have tried and got frustrated like I did. Daizen's are the best from my experience and leg work. Nothing else comes out economically while still performing and NOT squeaking.

MW

Ryan

From what I've seen the Daizens are a very good deal. If you do the control arm bushings, the labor will be a lot more than the parts anyway (assuming it's not DIY). You might as well put in the highest quality components given how labor intensive it is.

Todd is putting in both sets, as well as the Tokico/Eibach setup, right now. I can hardly wait to get the car back and feel the results!

808state

isn't it "Set of Four $370.00 + postage"

and isn't it aus dollars? which is about half off if you convert to us dollars?

i wasn't aware you had to press it into the existing arms other than it was a torque type(does that equate it to pressing it in?) according to pete's homepage. where did you get that info?

i'm not trying to say one is better than the other either. just asking questions to get facts to help people (and myself) make informed decisions. seeing that you had success with the daizen and had put together a dyi instructions and pete (soarer diehard) had success makes me believe both products are quality products.

my only question is about the squeekies... since the aus bushings have a metal outer casing, this somehow equates to a sealed environment where the grease can't escape (plus it copies the original with better rubber).

now the daizens have the grease slots in it also(without the casings i believe), but will this or won't this keep the grease from escaping and getting the squeeks? will you have to eventually have to regrease it?

just questions and not opinions for or against either product. i'm just curious...

pcmw

808state,

I am merely here to set the record straight. People are getting all kinds of funny information on this stuff from this board and others across the water. Right now, Daizen bushings are the best for the money. Nothing even close.

No, torque type means that the rubber seizes to the inner sleeve and hence has no moving parts. When the suspension travels, the rubber twists and hence the name torque.

The aussie rubber set up has no moving parts, and hence no need for grease. Where did you see they needed grease? I think you are wrong on that point. Also, the metal outer casing is necessary because they require you to knock out the stock metal casings. Daizen bushings you leave the outer.

The grease that is supplied with the kit is a waterproof setup that does not come out once applied.

So all in all. The aussie bushings are close to stock. Stock's fail in 50k-75k miles. So they will need replacing before the Daizens need a little regreasing. The aussies cost $370aus=$200US so they are twice as much. You need an air chisel to get the old outer metal out so they are NOT DIY in my book. But most important. They do nothing to BETTER control larger wheel sizes than the stock. It has been found that 18"+ rims where the bushings out fast and cannot be adequately controlled.

This is a great thread so far. Keep posting questions so that I can have a reason to go read all these books I have.

MW

Ali SC4

I got the Daizen bushings about 2 months ago and had a shop install them since it seemed like a tedeous job. They told me they literally had to burn out the old bushings etc. But I have to say this stopped all the noise that the suspension was making as well as improved the handling of the car dramatically. It does feel a little stiffer and not as soft as the factory ride, but in my opinion worth every penny. Also istall was the costliest part at about $400.

Dimcorner

I think imma going to order me a set, can't be as bad as a Rx7 suspension right? Can someone post a link of thier site?

Ali SC4

Not even half as rough as an RX7 suspenpension.

Here's the site:

http://www.tmengineering.net/

Here are the bushings:

http://www.tmengineering.net/suspens...n/make/sc.html

Dimcorner

which bushings are the ones that usually go first?

pcmw

Front Lower Control Arm Bushings usually begin to fail first.

MW

Dimcorner

oh... so the 90 buck one huh...

808state

again, i'm not trying to say which one is better than the other. there are pro and cons to each. it depends on what you are looking for see below.


that was a mistake on my part. as you cleared it up that the rubber is bonded to the metal outer casing. aussies one uses a brand new outer metal casing while the daizen reuses the existing outer metal casing.

i think you are assuming the failure rate if you put in the aussie's bushing. since they are not using the original rubber(though they recreated it) and technology progessed since then, they should in theory last longer. how much longer, i don't know.

i also think you are assuming that because the aus ones are make to stock specs, that it therefore can't handle larger rim sizes/handling. if you personally tested the actual product and either pete or the person who made them said it can't handle larger rim sizes (note pete has larger rims on his car), then i would be mistaken but i haven't read anything about that.

you also contradicted yourself when you said the daizens are waterproof and does not come out(grease) once applied..yet you said daizens need a little regreasing (after the aus one's fail). todd stated in his thread "I think the worst case would be regreasing after 2 or more years, but nothing that would require looking after every month or anything like that." even though you should check your undercarriage periodically for regular wear and tear plus greasing up, how entailed would regreasing the lower control arm daizen bushing be? i'm assuming you'll have to take the lower control arm off again though because the daizen is split and it doesn't stick (assumption), it should be easy to grease up. but again, you'll have to take the lower control arm off (you might be able to get away with just removing one bolt and swinging the arm down).


>>>edit<<< the above quote was for the sway bar bushings and not the lower control arm bushings... to read it entirely, see this link:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...threadid=59550

what todd really said about the daizen bushings:
"As far as longevity, there is no reason that these bushings won't outlast the car. The only conceivable problem would be if they needed to be regreased on the face, but that is usually not needed as grease technology is pretty good nowdays, and as mentioned above, there are channels that hold ample grease to alleviate this problem altogether"

from what i gathered, the daizen will be stiffer than the aussies one. the aussie's one's i think (i could be wrong) is as close to stock as you can get.

**price wise**
daizen = $99
aus = $200

difference = $101 in favor of daizen i think you also get the upper control arm bushings too for that price of $99(daizen)?

**install**
installation for both should be the same since you have to chisel, burn, melt, kick, scratch, and punch the originals out. it might be alittle more for the aus since as you stated, the aussies one has to be pressed in (though you didn't confirm this). most of the labor/cost will be to get the old bushes out. also, i think someone posted instructions (to install the nolothane or whiteline ones) and you could just hack saw off the old bushing casing instead of using an air chisel.

difference = about equal (slightly in favor of daizen)

**maintenance**

daizen needs a little regreasing. i don't know how involved this is or how much it would cost (note again assumption). assuming you drive 10k a year over a 10 year period. now the aus one's don't need a regreasing. daizen does... and say you spend $20 for a regreasing for 5 times over a 10 year period for a total of $100. the cost difference of the initial buy between the 2 bushings would be made up in maintenance of the daizen. i'm also assuming the aus will last 100,000 miles as well as the daizen.

difference = $100 in favor of aus though i've made many assumptions and if you wanted to figure it out with present value dollars, etc, etc, i'm not about to do that. past 10 years, it would be in favor in daizen.

>>edit<< see above edited quote. daizen maintenance maybe little to none existant.

**ride**

daizen seems to be alittle stiffer than the aus ones. how much stiffer each one is, i don't know.

difference = depends on your taste.

**quality of product**

based on the fact that todd and pete have recommended these products personally, you can't go wrong with either or imo.

difference = none

research material for everyone else who haven't been much ado about nothing:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...threadid=55052
http://www.users.bigpond.com/pgscott/bushes/bushes.htm

if anyone can shed more light on this of if i have any errors, please post them. again, my above comparison is based on what i've been reading and not actual hands on experience with the dreaded bushes. it also leaves out the whiteline ones (nolothane blue ones?) and trd ones.

pcmw

Once again 808....great post.

I think you are correct on most everything and I agree with your summary. However, I still believe that the Aussie bushings will fail again before the Daizen bushings need re-greasing.

You are correct in saying that the Daizen's come with upper control arm bushings as well for the same price.

The stocks are NOT that difficult to pull out. I got them out in short time with a torch... (see other posts with pictures). My SC is a 1992 model. You do not burn the rubber to get them out...you heat the metal which turns the rubber to mush and slides right out. No hack saws, air chisel etc... The air chisel the aussies used was to get the outer metal sleeves to come out.

Lastly, I was not a instant fan of the Daizens when Todd first brought them out. I was going toward the Whitelines. However, after talking to Todd, and ordering both, the Daizen's were far superior. Take a search at the original post about bushings and you will see I was skeptical at best. I am NOT easily impressed with anything and very analytical after being in the aftermarket parts industry for 8 years in the past. I will say that these are PERFECT and do what they say. Hard to believe that a stock torque mounted bushing would NOT split again with larger than stock unsprung weight, and a lowered suspension. I guess it would be possible to align the shock slots on the aussie model to reflect the change in geometry, but who knows REALLY how to do that correctly?

MW