SC- 1st Gen (1992-2000)

Sc400 swap to jdm 2jz-gte questions

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Old 07-21-11, 04:10 PM
  #31  
account2x
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Originally Posted by Quicksc4
he has an SC400 not a 300. SC300 and SC400 uses the same mounts, same subframe.
Nope.
Same subframes correct.
Both mounts and brackets are different.


Originally Posted by Quicksc4
The last time i checked the 1jzgte was worst swap ever? that's what you said in the other thread, but not you are telling him to do a 1jz R154 swap.
Why auto if it's 2jzgte, he had already made up him mind he is not asking for your opinion
2jzgte / r154 is a really expensive swap because everything needs to be pieced together.

1jz is don't like, especially chaser, but having a r154 transmission means the total package, engine + transmission, is more stout.

if going auto skipping the 1jz for a 2jz makes more sense.
Old 07-21-11, 04:34 PM
  #32  
99SC42
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Like i said in many thread i will waste my time going back and forth with , show me some real life pics youput the mounts on the table and show me the difference i dont wanna see some pics that you googled ,everything i post on this forum is first hand experience, not i heard or i was talk,or i was reading somewhere.

i really care about your opinion sorry and have a nice day.

Back to topic i will pulling two motors out in the next week or so i will post the pics of the mounts an what not.
Old 07-21-11, 04:57 PM
  #33  
account2x
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I've seen first both hand.

400
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300
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I realize how you could be confused given that both mounts look similar but the difference is quite obvious. SC400 mounts are taller and the bolt curves farther back to match the V-shape block compared to the SC300 mounts which are more straight to match the I-shape block.

Last edited by account2x; 07-21-11 at 05:05 PM.
Old 07-21-11, 06:22 PM
  #34  
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Now we are getting somewhere. Keep the pictures coming of the different things needed to this swap and the helpful tips and advice for us wanting to this swap. Thanks for all the feedback. Now what about piggyback or standalone? Someone explain in detail the difference and why and why not?
Old 07-21-11, 08:42 PM
  #35  
VinSCe
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Originally Posted by 1992Lexus
Now we are getting somewhere. Keep the pictures coming of the different things needed to this swap and the helpful tips and advice for us wanting to this swap. Thanks for all the feedback. Now what about piggyback or standalone? Someone explain in detail the difference and why and why not?
Piggyback vs Standalone is really up to the individual user. It'll depend on your budget and power goals. For cars making around 450whp, I'd recommend going with a standalone. Some might argue and say that you can still use a piggyback at that point but honestly, I'd rather have the versatility of a standalone unit which might ultimately help you make more power, more reliably.

Since most people eventually end up wanting more power, I think everyone should strive for a standalone. A used AEM unit often goes for around 900 bucks... that's only a couple hundred more than a piggyback and it's a much more powerful investment.
Old 07-22-11, 05:01 AM
  #36  
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^ WELL said my friend , i don't use the a piggyback for 2 psi do it once , do it right and be done with it if you can afford save yourself the hassle, time and money.
I have never used Piggyback and Will never Use one.

Standalone is one of the best mod i have ever done to my car.
Old 07-22-11, 06:53 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by VinSCe
I think everyone should strive for a standalone..
+1 piggybacks are a waste
Old 07-22-11, 08:32 AM
  #38  
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Japanese 2jz ecu is good for 14 psi reliability. Plenty of people have pushed it 50% pasted that @ 21 psi with a piggyback.

900 bucks buys a new computer, 1jz auto or half of a 2jz auto. What is a dealer deal? The secret to modifying any car is spending the money where it counts. Without reason going standalone is a very poor use of funds.
Old 07-22-11, 09:58 AM
  #39  
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Thays my thoughts exactly too. I think the standalone is the better choice. What brand and website is the most recommended? With the best results?
Old 07-22-11, 10:23 AM
  #40  
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You can pick up a nice AEM box for 900+ depending on the condition and who is selling it, and what's included.
I just ordered mine yesterday the last batch of the V1 had a great deal so i jumped on it.

look for deals , and have the money ready in your paypal and when the deal comes up just jump on it.
I like the V1 because i don't mind a resistor box, and i don't need a DLI on my setup, some people like the V2 when time comes to Upgrade i will just get the Proefi.

You can make reliable power on the stock ecu with piggyback if you know what your are doing , You don't have to break the bank and you don't have to half*** your setup.

i was at a local meet 2 week ago , and this guy wanted to dyno his car so first pull he made 419rwhp on Dyno jet , second pull he turned up the boost i don't know how much boost but made 525Rwhp, so third and final pull made 519rwhp and he was like "no there is something wrong" so i ask him what's wrong ? he it's too low... i was like WTF dude you are on stock ECU and some ebay turbo with 525rwhp you are not happy?
guess what on the 525rwhp pull it was leaning out ~7k rpm .
So he was being greedy and almost lost his engine because he wanted to be cheap and make alot of power.
Old 07-22-11, 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by account2x
Japanese 2jz ecu is good for 14 psi reliability. Plenty of people have pushed it 50% pasted that @ 21 psi with a piggyback.

900 bucks buys a new computer, 1jz auto or half of a 2jz auto. What is a dealer deal? The secret to modifying any car is spending the money where it counts. Without reason going standalone is a very poor use of funds.
Engine management is definitely "where it counts" unless the person is one of the rare breed who stays with stock twins forever (or is cheap). If you ever plan on upgrading the turbo setup then it is definitely a good idea to go standalone. Otherwise, you just wasted money on a piggyback to raise boost on stock twins only to wish you had gone standalone in the first place when you decide to upgrade on a larger scale.
Old 07-22-11, 01:00 PM
  #42  
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These are threads that makes cl so much more enjoyable to read. No one smashing one another just good questions and answers that likes to be read. What about the stock rear end? Keep it or swap with something? What? And why?
Old 07-22-11, 01:33 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by 1992Lexus
These are threads that makes cl so much more enjoyable to read. No one smashing one another just good questions and answers that likes to be read. What about the stock rear end? Keep it or swap with something? What? And why?
stock diff i garbage if you are making decent power (400+rwhp) you must atleast have a tt auto LSD.
if you are manual you can do tt auto stock diff,3.76 or have tt lsd install in the GS400 or 3.92 SC400 rear.
If your pocket is deep you can do an trd auto lSD install in the diff of your choice.
For HHP application with 6speed you can do 6 speed rear with trd lsd that's big $$ right there.

another option is the 3.62 from big daddy in FL.

i have stock 3.92 SC400 diff on my car last year with 500+rwhp with R154, 1,2 and 3 i have zero traction i only have traction on top of 3rd 4th and 5th.
You can't have fun w/o an lsd if the weather is under 80 degrees ;in 65deg weather the is scary to drive all over the place.
so if you have 400+ lsd is a must don't mess around or you will be on the news
Old 07-22-11, 01:38 PM
  #44  
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Can you elaborate on the 3.62 from Big Daddy? That sounds pretty intriguing
Old 07-22-11, 01:43 PM
  #45  
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Is there a way to make the stock SC400 rear end positive traction the entire time or bad idea? I have an extra stock SC400 rear end, does anyone want to swap or trade for a 300 even?


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