Anyone that knows about sub installs please help
Ok, I recently got my sub installed, ya. But it makes this horrible rattle
. I went to the sound shop that did it, and he looked at it and said, oh there isn't very much we can do about it :eek: . He says it is hitting the third break light cover (spoilerless SC) and when they put the sub in it was raised a bit higher than the stock sub. I asked if they could cut the board down, they said no, its as thin as it can be. I know most people that have done the install have a spoiler and a different sub cover... could it be that the sub cover I have will make the sub hit it? This is pissing me off so much, I drive around and the music gives me a headache because of the clink clink ... sound coming from behind. Another thing that they did wrong was they hooked the sub to the front channels meaning I don't get sub if I fade it to the back, I am calling in a few hours to find out why they did that, there shouldn't have been a reason for running the signal from those channels should there have been? You think you pay someone close to 400 and they can drop a sub into your car properly... should have done it myself... have a feeling they won't be willing to try to fix it either... I asked him how to remove the cover, and he was like, we had to take out the seat and back panels... lots of work... any insight on what I can do? Anyone know the difference between the spoiler sub cover and spoilerless sub cover?
. I went to the sound shop that did it, and he looked at it and said, oh there isn't very much we can do about it :eek: . He says it is hitting the third break light cover (spoilerless SC) and when they put the sub in it was raised a bit higher than the stock sub. I asked if they could cut the board down, they said no, its as thin as it can be. I know most people that have done the install have a spoiler and a different sub cover... could it be that the sub cover I have will make the sub hit it? This is pissing me off so much, I drive around and the music gives me a headache because of the clink clink ... sound coming from behind. Another thing that they did wrong was they hooked the sub to the front channels meaning I don't get sub if I fade it to the back, I am calling in a few hours to find out why they did that, there shouldn't have been a reason for running the signal from those channels should there have been? You think you pay someone close to 400 and they can drop a sub into your car properly... should have done it myself... have a feeling they won't be willing to try to fix it either... I asked him how to remove the cover, and he was like, we had to take out the seat and back panels... lots of work... any insight on what I can do? Anyone know the difference between the spoiler sub cover and spoilerless sub cover?
We're missing some details here- what kind of (and size) sub was it? Did you or the shop pick it out? Did they wire it to the stock stereo amp, Nak amp or aftermaket amp?
Removing the seat and getting to the back panel is not very hard- here's a thread showing how:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...threadid=34734
Removing the seat and getting to the back panel is not very hard- here's a thread showing how:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...threadid=34734
I've looked at that and know that a lot of times they don't always re-assemble the rear dash correctly, and you will get clips dislodged between the dash and the metal framing, and when bass hits, they rattle around, and sometimes the actually dash will rattle if not correctly resecured. Just something to check, cuz even if the other sub is slightly higher,...the stock grill should keep it from touching anything, and secondly the outer trim ring that held the old sub in place should have come out with the old sub, and the new one should sit about equal or slightly lower if it was bolted directly to the frame.
I put in a kicker 10 comp w/ a phoenix gold xs2300. It is very weird because only certain frequencies it makes that awful rattling sound, really driving me crazy, I guess maybe I should just do it myself and rip everything apart, it just pisses me off that I paid someone already to do it and they didn't do what I wanted, I just don't like messing w/ things if I can get someone else to do it for me... 'usually' they will back up their work and be liable and fix anything that is wrong. I guess I will see how this store handles this situation. I will try all those things... thanks guys.
Are you sure its hitting anything? I put a 150w amp on the stock 10" sub and I also get horrible rear-deck rattles at certain frequencies. I think most of them are coming from the two little panels that are clipped on between the sub and the rear speakers. I thinkiing that lots of dynamat will help that.
That is right,....there's two lil panels ( you can see them if you remove the gas liner panel in the trunk ) that pop out,.. not sure what they were for,...but you can pop them out and turn them to the side to remove them,...the could and probably would rattle,.. one sits on each side of the sub. I think I took mine out when I did my box.
Originally posted by PERRYinLA
...in this case, RAAMmat:

And those two little square panels on the rear deck are absolute rattle magnets- they are very flimsily (is that a word?) attached.
...in this case, RAAMmat:

And those two little square panels on the rear deck are absolute rattle magnets- they are very flimsily (is that a word?) attached.
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Third Brake light/sub cover comes off without removing the seat.
Just pull up on the front of the cover and then slide forward..
If the noise is still there when you remove the 3rd brakelight all together then you need to add a layer of dynamat or even just 1/8 foam so that the rattle is eliminated between the deck and metal.
MW
Just pull up on the front of the cover and then slide forward..
If the noise is still there when you remove the 3rd brakelight all together then you need to add a layer of dynamat or even just 1/8 foam so that the rattle is eliminated between the deck and metal.
MW
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