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Old Oct 10, 2010 | 04:08 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by good2go
All that being said, I am quite frankly surprised that after being a mechanic for 10+ years, you are still using (professionally) a second rate method of loosening the bolts...and I'm NOT being sarcastic there.
Beats breaking flywheel/flex-plate teeth, or having to drain/remove radiator, and draw down the ac system to remove the condenser for impact gun access....that's hours of labor saved for the customers. Responses like yours is what usually deters me from offering online advice...too many "enthusiasts" who need a factory service manual just to change their oil....
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Old Oct 10, 2010 | 04:34 PM
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No i am replacing the water pump, and figured might as well get a new timing belt as well. Wow thank you for telling me the pulley is keyed... that just fixed a huge problem i thought i might have had lol. But here is the tool i made!





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Old Oct 10, 2010 | 04:43 PM
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Going to have to wait until tomorrow too try this out though. Oh well at least i am not all stressed out about that damn bolt anymore.... spent 5 days itching my head about this.
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Old Oct 10, 2010 | 05:50 PM
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Originally Posted by 1uzfe4147
No i am replacing the water pump, and figured might as well get a new timing belt as well. Wow thank you for telling me the pulley is keyed... that just fixed a huge problem i thought i might have had lol. But here is the tool i made!
Originally Posted by 1uzfe4147
Going to have to wait until tomorrow too try this out though. Oh well at least i am not all stressed out about that damn bolt anymore.... spent 5 days itching my head about this.
Looks good. G/L to you



Originally Posted by Gspec
Responses like yours is what usually deters me from offering online advice...too many "enthusiasts" who need a factory service manual just to change their oil....
Oh wow... was that intended to be sarcasm (or just flat out insulting)? ... because I thought you were so sensitive to all that.

Look pal, YOU ARE the one who boasted of 10+ years of being a pro and you don't even have a simple, basic tool for doing the job correctly ; you don't need an impact gun if you have the proper tool, so no need to pull the condenser.

Furthermore, YOU DID post advice online to novices who may not have the experience necessary to ensure that when they setup the breaker bar to use the starter method, that they do it safely so they don't get hurt or mess up their car. For crissakes man, take some responsibility, don't just sling insults at me. You should KNOW the starter method is a shortcut and that it is NOT the best thing to put the starter through (I'd be furious if I knew I'd paid for a pro and they did that to my car!). Just because you've "gotten away with it" for so long doesn't mean its a good thing to recommend to strangers (or starter motors). Explaining away your irresponsibilty and shoddy practices with an insult to me is just plain weak my friend.

If you want to discuss this further, I'd be more than happy to do so by pm, outside this man's thread.
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Old Oct 10, 2010 | 06:54 PM
  #20  
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Hmmmmmmm, you'd think that after investing over $50k in Snap-On and Mac tools that I'd have one of these magic crank bolt removers you keep referring to...by all means, search their websites and point out what I've obviously been overlooking all these years. Besides the Honda crank lock tool (which I have) you wont find a vehicle specific, or universal crank lock kit. You're making a huge deal over something that takes mere seconds to do, and zero thought........step number 211 in a 1,000 step process if you will. Congrats on being "that guy" for the evening.....
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Old Oct 10, 2010 | 07:55 PM
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1uzfe4147, you have my apologies for this distraction.

Gspec, I've invited you to take your insults, sarcasm, and any debate outside of this thread. Sorry, but I refuse to engage you any further here.

Last edited by good2go; Oct 10, 2010 at 07:58 PM.
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Old Oct 10, 2010 | 09:24 PM
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No problem! I am quite sure any "insults, sarcasm, or debate" on the thus matter at hand was misunderstood. Thank you for the help anyone has offered!
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Old Oct 10, 2010 | 10:39 PM
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Originally Posted by good2go
I see people saying to use this method a lot. Personally, I'm not a fan as I think it's potentially unsafe, but I am curious how people who advocate using this method expect to be able to re tighten the bolt to the correct torque spec? Do you guys all have precision calibrated starter motors and super fast fingers to let off the key when it's torqued to spec?
It has just always seemed short sighted to me.
You are totally making a big deal out of nothing, First of all this trick only takes off the bolt, it does not put the bolt back on, so your comments about precision calibrated starters leads me to believe you have never worked on any cars. Also you mentioned stress on the starter, If you have ever tried this you would realize the starter isn't even remotely stressed by breaking the crank bolt free in the slightest.

Your attitude towards experienced mechanics is the reason customers are not allowed in the shop. your the guy who would go in the shop with no experience what so ever and start freaking out about normal procedure.
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Old Oct 11, 2010 | 07:38 AM
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wow so i went too use the tool this morning and everything was going great untill the 2 bolts that go too the puller broke inside the pulley. Now i have no idea what too do... And i cant do the starter thing because everything else is taken off.
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Old Oct 11, 2010 | 07:38 AM
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i am so screwed lol i don't know what too do..


Last edited by 1uzfe4147; Oct 11, 2010 at 07:45 AM.
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Old Oct 11, 2010 | 08:10 AM
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If i could somehow get a air compressor i might be able 2...?
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Old Oct 11, 2010 | 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by 1uzfe4147
wow so i went too use the tool this morning and everything was going great untill the 2 bolts that go too the puller broke inside the pulley. Now i have no idea what too do... And i cant do the starter thing because everything else is taken off.
A few questions:

Did you use hardened bolts?

Did you tighten the bolts up so that the bar was held tightly (under tension) against the pulley?

Were the bolts too long, ie. did they protrude through too far until they were gripping the surface behind the pulley?

My guess is that one or more of those three things contibuted to this failure. Drilling a tap hole for an 'easy out' is probably going to require a right angle drill due to clearance issues, but should be do-able. Those broken off pieces shouldn't be under any tension (unless the third answer was yes), so they should come out easily. Whether you then use the starter method to loosen the crank bolt or not, you will still need those holes opened up to use the puller on the pulley (unless you can possibly come up with a puller that grips around the outside).

Then, if you do have to go to plan "C" (starter) . . .When you say you can't do the starter thing because everything is off, what specifically do you mean? What's been removed that would prevent the starter from bumping? It's not like you would be spinning the motor . . .it's more like a quarter turn of the crank. It might gurgle some coolant, but it isn't going to need all the accessory support, and the power is coming strictly from the battery. IF you do try it, just make sure you set it up properly so the wrench doesn't go flying off, disable spark to the plugs, and have an extra person assist you if possible so that you can keep an eye on what's happening.

Last edited by good2go; Oct 11, 2010 at 09:29 AM.
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Old Oct 11, 2010 | 09:27 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by JakeBreyck

You are ...
You have a PM
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Old Oct 11, 2010 | 09:33 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by good2go
A few questions:

Did you use hardened bolts?

Did you tighten the bolts up so that the bar was held tightly (under tension) against the pulley?

Were the bolts too long, ie. did they protrude through too far until they were gripping the surface behind the pulley?

My guess is that one or more of those three things contibuted to this failure. Drilling a tap hole for an 'easy out' is probably going to require a right angle drill due to clearance issues, but should be do-able. Those broken off pieces shouldn't be under any tension (unless the third answer was yes), so they should come out easily. Whether you then use the starter method to loosen the crank bolt or not, you will still need those holes opened up to use the puller on the pulley (unless you can possibly come up with a puller that grips around the outside).

Then, if you do have to go to plan "C" (starter) . . .When you say you can't do the starter thing because everything is off, what specifically do you mean? What's been removed that would prevent the starter from bumping? It's not like you would be spinning the motor . . .it's more like a quarter turn of the crank. It might gurgle some coolant, but it isn't going to need all the accessory support, and the power is coming strictly from the battery. IF you do try it, just make sure you set it up properly so the wrench doesn't go flying off, disable spark to the plugs, and have an extra person assist you if possible so that you can keep an eye on what's happening.
Thank you for the response! I am now setup too do the starter ordeal but unforch..... my battery had died and now i am in the process of getting this done. I am pretty sure the reasoning behind why the bolts broke was because they were not tight enough. thankfully i have a 2 piece puller that has the grip around the pulley option. And the bolts i broke were the bolts that were in the pulley set that i rented from auto zone.... hopefully i can go find the exact bolt somewhere
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Old Oct 11, 2010 | 09:40 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by 1uzfe4147
.... hopefully i can go find the exact bolt somewhere
Ace Hardware had them if IIRC.
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