I Wanna Relocate Battery To Trunk ?
09-23-10, 11:05 AM
#31
I kinda did just more pics then words, I will write one if someone else wants to do it but we would use their car for it.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-...d-fusebox.html
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-...d-fusebox.html
because oklahoma city is what, a few hour drive?
09-23-10, 11:30 AM
#33
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I kinda did just more pics then words, I will write one if someone else wants to do it but we would use their car for it.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-...d-fusebox.html
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-...d-fusebox.html
09-26-10, 06:10 PM
#34
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I'm in Indiana, about 4 hours away. Are you offering to buy materials? lol, jk, maybe we can get together and do this sometime on my car though after I pool some money together and get some time for the trip.
09-26-10, 07:49 PM
#35
It's actually very cheap you just needs like 5-6 packages of heat shrink, solder, solder gun, electrical tape, Zip ties, a Legit wire stripper, 8 Gauge, 4 Gauge and 3 2 Gauge 13-15 feet i think i never measured, except for the 8 gauge that only needs to be 5 feet and that's the fusebox's ground. I forgot to add a electronic cut off.
I am gonna be redoing mine again so it'll be a re-re-relocated fusebox remasterd, I want to do run solid wires to new terminals on each end.
I am gonna be redoing mine again so it'll be a re-re-relocated fusebox remasterd, I want to do run solid wires to new terminals on each end.
Last edited by 1siksc; 09-27-10 at 04:24 AM.
09-26-10, 08:01 PM
#36
+1 to the people running a SINGLE 0 gauge to the trunk and a ground from the battery to somewhere in the trunk(and like mentioned sand the paint off to make good contact)
ive done this method on every car ive owned and has worked perfectly and plan to do the same to the sc3 now that i finally got my Master key and can get into my trunk
and yes DEFINITELY keep it inside the car..running it underneath is just asking for problems
ive done this method on every car ive owned and has worked perfectly and plan to do the same to the sc3 now that i finally got my Master key and can get into my trunk
and yes DEFINITELY keep it inside the car..running it underneath is just asking for problems
09-27-10, 04:23 AM
#37
IF you are GTE and planning to use a higher output ignition, this is not recommended it can cause problems.
+1 to the people running a SINGLE 0 gauge to the trunk and a ground from the battery to somewhere in the trunk(and like mentioned sand the paint off to make good contact)
ive done this method on every car ive owned and has worked perfectly and plan to do the same to the sc3 now that i finally got my Master key and can get into my trunk
and yes DEFINITELY keep it inside the car..running it underneath is just asking for problems
ive done this method on every car ive owned and has worked perfectly and plan to do the same to the sc3 now that i finally got my Master key and can get into my trunk
and yes DEFINITELY keep it inside the car..running it underneath is just asking for problems
09-27-10, 07:36 AM
#38
care to shed light on how it can cause problems? and what kind of problems will it cause?
ive never had a 2jzgte..however i have had and dealt with cars with coil packs, ive dealt with high hp cars, car audio cars(big car audio not just 2 12's or 2 15's) and never ever had any issues...so im unsure what kind of problems this could cause?
ive never had a 2jzgte..however i have had and dealt with cars with coil packs, ive dealt with high hp cars, car audio cars(big car audio not just 2 12's or 2 15's) and never ever had any issues...so im unsure what kind of problems this could cause?
10-02-10, 06:46 AM
#40
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Well, I just want to thank everyone for the info. I'm curious to see the discussion on the 2 different setups (one wire and trunk ground vs. the spider web like system). Also, I'm not wanting to go to a dry cell battery due to cost so does anyone have ideas on how to vent a conventional battery?
just let me know when so I can take off of work..
10-02-10, 10:11 AM
#42
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+1 to the people running a SINGLE 0 gauge to the trunk and a ground from the battery to somewhere in the trunk(and like mentioned sand the paint off to make good contact)
ive done this method on every car ive owned and has worked perfectly and plan to do the same to the sc3 now that i finally got my Master key and can get into my trunk
and yes DEFINITELY keep it inside the car..running it underneath is just asking for problems
ive done this method on every car ive owned and has worked perfectly and plan to do the same to the sc3 now that i finally got my Master key and can get into my trunk
and yes DEFINITELY keep it inside the car..running it underneath is just asking for problems
I'm curious as well.
10-02-10, 06:07 PM
#44
Ill chime in here a bit about the ground after relocation.
I have my battery grounded to the chassis in the trunk, a cable going to the factory ground in the front that is split and grounded to chassis again, and several grounding points between the engine and trans to chassis.
On top of that I have a 0/1 gauge positive running to the trunk that is hooked to a distribution block under the hood and has 2-2gauge wires linked to a fuse to the OEM positive cable, all weather sealed, and using 100% oxygen free triple strand copper cables, with gold plated terminals and distribution points.
Have not had 1 issue yet with my Optima Red.
I have my battery grounded to the chassis in the trunk, a cable going to the factory ground in the front that is split and grounded to chassis again, and several grounding points between the engine and trans to chassis.
On top of that I have a 0/1 gauge positive running to the trunk that is hooked to a distribution block under the hood and has 2-2gauge wires linked to a fuse to the OEM positive cable, all weather sealed, and using 100% oxygen free triple strand copper cables, with gold plated terminals and distribution points.
Have not had 1 issue yet with my Optima Red.
10-04-10, 07:49 AM
#45
Ill chime in here a bit about the ground after relocation.
I have my battery grounded to the chassis in the trunk, a cable going to the factory ground in the front that is split and grounded to chassis again, and several grounding points between the engine and trans to chassis.
On top of that I have a 0/1 gauge positive running to the trunk that is hooked to a distribution block under the hood and has 2-2gauge wires linked to a fuse to the OEM positive cable, all weather sealed, and using 100% oxygen free triple strand copper cables, with gold plated terminals and distribution points.
Have not had 1 issue yet with my Optima Red.
I have my battery grounded to the chassis in the trunk, a cable going to the factory ground in the front that is split and grounded to chassis again, and several grounding points between the engine and trans to chassis.
On top of that I have a 0/1 gauge positive running to the trunk that is hooked to a distribution block under the hood and has 2-2gauge wires linked to a fuse to the OEM positive cable, all weather sealed, and using 100% oxygen free triple strand copper cables, with gold plated terminals and distribution points.
Have not had 1 issue yet with my Optima Red.