Bought SC300 (T67 GTE)
 

Hello Everyone. I just purchased a 1992 SC300 with a JDM 2JZGTE converted to T67 single. Its got a 97+ conversion and needs a paint job......BAD. LoL

Anyways, the problems im having so far are the obvious.......the Tach, Speedo, and Temp gauge. Those im sure i have seen on the forum and have them bookmarked somewhere after doing a few searches. Another problem is the engine is fitted with an R154 and the shifter doesnt have the extension so i am either going to have to have the tranny pulled and put an extension on or try to have it changed to the swan neck shifter.

I was driving it home very carefully and slowly (50mph) because the midpipe is in the trunk and the car is running on open downpipe. (LOUD!) Anyways since the car had been sitting for a while before i picked it up, the radiator was full of dirt. I tried to flush it as well as i could while i was at the dude's place, but i guess it wasnt enough.......

The car overheated and crack the radiator while i was on the road, i immediately shut off the motor and pulled over, leaving the key in on position so the radiator fan would keep blowing. Well i didnt want to take a chance and i towed it the rest of the way. The car doesnt want to start now, i noticed the plugs were saturated with gas......(most likely due to running extremely rich from the overheating), and the coils were basically melting.

I changed all plugs and coilpacks and checked thermostat. Car still wouldnt crank up. Now i guess the next thing is the Cam Position sensor and Crankshaft sensor. because we are thinking they might have gone bad from the heat.

Ugh...... any ideas people??? I just picked up the car and didnt even get to enjoy it. :cry:

if it overheated mite have warped the head...so check ur compression

Were there any other issues brought to your attention at the time of purchase? The reason I ask is it could be an issue completely unrelated to the overheating. For instance, the car has been GTE swapped, so I doubt it is still running the oem fuel pump. When the Walbro 255 is installed (the right way), it's a good idea to run dedicated power to it with a four prong relay. This is just an example that kept my car from starting, a faulty relay.

If I were you, I would make a list of things in your head that would have to be changed during the motor swap, and check those things first. 98% of my cars problems have spurred from things I myself have modified. Look at your EFI fuse, main relay, and the sensors you mentioned. If you warped the head, or lost compression, your car could still start in some cases, it would just run awful and sound like a WRX. Good luck.

Thanks for the replies. The car started from first click when i picked it up and drove beautifully before everything happened. I checked the oil and no signs of water in the oil, so the metal headgasket did its job. I pulled the plugs and found them somewhat saturated with fuel though.

Something it does different now that i changed all plugs and coils is when i try to crank it i smell unburnt fuel......... and im almost sure the fuel pump was changed, like i said the car didnt have any fuel delivery problems.

Anyone else?? :confused::confused:

Ok every here is an update. I replaced both Cam Pos. Sensors and Ignitor. Before bothering with the Crank Pos. Sensor i gave the motor a compression test. The battery is low so the motor struggled to crank but i believe the reading was accurate when it said
ZERO COMPRESSION.......UGH! Im assuming the pistons are trashed So i am now looking for a replacement motor, also posted up on supraforums. If anyone has any ideas please post and help a fellow CL member out.

that's why i don't buy people projects, hope you get it rite!

where do you live in missouri?

no good, pull the head off and check it out. you can get the head machine and replace the head gasket. if the bottom end looks ok. you could a little oil down the spark plug and see if compression comes up also. i have seen cars overheated like crazy but they still ran after.

umm get the head offffffffff man well its a good start once you done u will have a nice ride sir glk.

You should ignor some of these responses because it's going to cost you a ton of money if your just throwing parts into it. You should use the general rule of thumb mechanics uses.

1. Check for firing
2. Check for fuel
3. Check compression

Start with these simple rules and you should narrow down your core problem.

Also check your fues, the swap could have shorted some fuese if not wired up correctly.

He said he came up with 0 compression, I think it's safe to say its not a fuse.

ok, maybe it's not the fuse.

"The battery is low so the motor struggled to crank but i believe the reading was accurate when it said
ZERO COMPRESSION.......UGH!"

There are some key words in the phrase that does not convince me yet. Which cylinder was tested? All? or 1? or 2? or 3? or 4? or 5?

charge the battery and do it again. Also this happened to me with a motor a while ago. It ended up being that the timing belt somehow skipped a tooth? Put it back on correctly and it cranked right up. We comp tested it just like you and got 0. I think you would get a higher reading than 0 if the pistons were shot.

yes. you will need a fully charged battry. its possible that you could have cylinder wash down from the injectors if its not firing. so also check for spark

it would have to be pretty screwed for it to have zero compression. does it crank at all?