2JZGE Na-T TT Ecu Mod
09-03-17, 03:27 PM
#3436
Is a map sensor required when using a map ecu 2? I'm going to install mine soon but don't have a map sensor yet. Couple guys have told me I don't need one and others have told me I should install one.
Edit: I'm running a USDM obd2 ecu
Edit: I'm running a USDM obd2 ecu
Last edited by ScBouncE; 09-03-17 at 03:43 PM.
09-03-17, 08:14 PM
#3437
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I am trying to find out why my 1992 sc 300 is in fail safe mode. No overdrive. No check engine light/ trans light. I had a o/d off light flashing while drive for a while. Replaced shift solenoids. Light went off still not overdrive. Transmission does not slip and feels strong. Last time it was not in fail safe mood was in the highway before the solenoids was replaced. Had no overdrive but have it near 70 mph and than for no reason and car did not skip a beat or slow down rpm's jumped from 4,000 rpm to 5,700 and damn I really hit the brake. I am think bad sensor. Can a o2 sensor make it go into fail safe mode? I have had 3 people say it needs a dealer level scanner, like at Lexus or transmission shop, but they all said that in the phone. But would they even be able to see it was o2 sensors? I hate to say someone and get no where. Damn obd 1.
09-04-17, 09:37 AM
#3438
It's forsure not your o2's. You can jump pin 2 pins under your hood and you should get blinking trac or engine light for codes. t1 and te1? not 100% sure google it
as for what your saying please clean it up and be more descriptive. At least i can't really make out what your trying to say : your in a fail safe mode where you don't have overdrive but no check engine light or trans light is on? The last time this happened you were on the highway and it downshifted you out of overdrive? or out of 4th to 3rd
To me it sounds like transmission issues. If your sure the place who did your valves did a good job replacing the valves in the transmission i'd ask them why you don't have overdrive still and find out if they diagnosed it as solenoids or if u just told them to do solenoids. I'm assuming someone else did the solenoids.
Throw a manual transmission in it and be happy =)
as for what your saying please clean it up and be more descriptive. At least i can't really make out what your trying to say : your in a fail safe mode where you don't have overdrive but no check engine light or trans light is on? The last time this happened you were on the highway and it downshifted you out of overdrive? or out of 4th to 3rd
To me it sounds like transmission issues. If your sure the place who did your valves did a good job replacing the valves in the transmission i'd ask them why you don't have overdrive still and find out if they diagnosed it as solenoids or if u just told them to do solenoids. I'm assuming someone else did the solenoids.
Throw a manual transmission in it and be happy =)
Last edited by scsexy; 09-04-17 at 09:44 AM.
09-04-17, 12:45 PM
#3439
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I was not in fail safe mode when I was doing 70 it was at 4,000 rpm I just did not have over drive all the other gears where very strong and no slipped. When the rpm's jumped from 4 K to 5,7000 I did not do anything myself. The car did not down down or skip a beat The car just jumped the rmps that hight be cause that is when it want into fail safe mode. I well jump the pins and see what happens. And than I had the solenoids replaced my a friend because over drive off light while drving is error coed 65 or 67, I forgot what code 65 is but 67 is transmission solenoid failing. And would we did that also new filter and gasket. After that the o/d off light went out, still not overdrive. So I have no no engine light so can I jump the wires and will anything show up it the light is on now? Sorry I know more about obd 1 than obd 2. If I do have to get a used transmission do you know anywhere on line that sales good used one. I was a could drive a 5 speed again I have hip and leg issues so I can't anymore. Thanks for all your help I hope this give toy a better understanding on what I going on. Shaun
09-05-17, 12:16 PM
#3441
scsexy, try the safc then it sounds like it is a little bit off for some reason but it should be fine with the stock regulator and denso pump.
maybe you need some more gap on your plugs, just taking a guess it could be ignition related maybe not burning off enough of the mixture.
SCbounce, I get this question alot and the other guys are wrong when using a USDM ecu.
USDM stock requires a stock maf and a stock map sensor; and the maf is used for fueling.
Now the Mapecu replaces the MAF used for fueling with its aftermarket map sensor... BUT the ecu is still looking for that stock map sensor.
The car will run and drive without the stock map sensor hooked up, but the check engine light will be on for it and it may not want to boost right as that is what it uses for boost cut but honestly I am not really sure what it does without the stock map sensor connected, maybe give it a try.
On a JDM ecu there is only a map sensor used for fueling, so when using a Mapecu it replaces the map sensor and you don't need a stock map sensor.
92sciowa, this thread isn't related to transmission stuff on stock ecu's so start a new thread in the performance and maintenance section where you can get better help, but i would open and check the ecu to make sure its not gone bad (leaky capacitors or blown resistors) as that is what controls the transmission on these cars, and when the ecu starts to go bad you can have those issues along with fueling issues.
maybe you need some more gap on your plugs, just taking a guess it could be ignition related maybe not burning off enough of the mixture.
SCbounce, I get this question alot and the other guys are wrong when using a USDM ecu.
USDM stock requires a stock maf and a stock map sensor; and the maf is used for fueling.
Now the Mapecu replaces the MAF used for fueling with its aftermarket map sensor... BUT the ecu is still looking for that stock map sensor.
The car will run and drive without the stock map sensor hooked up, but the check engine light will be on for it and it may not want to boost right as that is what it uses for boost cut but honestly I am not really sure what it does without the stock map sensor connected, maybe give it a try.
On a JDM ecu there is only a map sensor used for fueling, so when using a Mapecu it replaces the map sensor and you don't need a stock map sensor.
92sciowa, this thread isn't related to transmission stuff on stock ecu's so start a new thread in the performance and maintenance section where you can get better help, but i would open and check the ecu to make sure its not gone bad (leaky capacitors or blown resistors) as that is what controls the transmission on these cars, and when the ecu starts to go bad you can have those issues along with fueling issues.
09-05-17, 05:08 PM
#3442
wow.. so i check my fuel pressure and its at 8-10 psi at idle.... and drops to 0 as i hit full boost... yet im running really rich in full boost? wtf how is this possible with no fuel pressure to be rich.
My friend said the car maybe knows there no fuel pressure and is just hanging the injectors open to compensate.
I used 2 different gauges same reading from 2 different locations. On the back of the intake and right next to the fuel pressure regulator
I'm going to change my fuel filter and put my stock pump back on and see where it's at.
My friend said the car maybe knows there no fuel pressure and is just hanging the injectors open to compensate.
I used 2 different gauges same reading from 2 different locations. On the back of the intake and right next to the fuel pressure regulator
I'm going to change my fuel filter and put my stock pump back on and see where it's at.
Last edited by scsexy; 09-05-17 at 05:59 PM.
09-06-17, 07:32 AM
#3443
that is odd, never heard of that one before. you should be lean then which is odd.
did you install the denso on the stock ge fuel computer? its known to blow those out and case issues cause it draws too much power, if you did then you should put in a relay.
use a 12v relay and use the stock ge fuel computer to trigger it and it might fix the issue. if your stock ge fuel computer is already bad which is a real possibility if its been connected through it, then you need to change it out or as a test bypass it with the relay but you loose the ecu safety stuff... it will turn on and off with the key with a delay.
did you install the denso on the stock ge fuel computer? its known to blow those out and case issues cause it draws too much power, if you did then you should put in a relay.
use a 12v relay and use the stock ge fuel computer to trigger it and it might fix the issue. if your stock ge fuel computer is already bad which is a real possibility if its been connected through it, then you need to change it out or as a test bypass it with the relay but you loose the ecu safety stuff... it will turn on and off with the key with a delay.
09-10-17, 10:13 AM
#3444
I was testing it at the return part after the regulator lol and the spot on the intake was vacuum for the brake booster.. lol i happened to be using a digital pressure tester too
My bad lmao working on things late makes you crazy i guess.
yeah the car wouldn't have been running with 10 or 14 psi lol
My bad lmao working on things late makes you crazy i guess.
yeah the car wouldn't have been running with 10 or 14 psi lol
Last edited by scsexy; 09-10-17 at 11:14 AM.
09-21-17, 06:34 PM
#3445
UPDATE!
It's still stumbling hard under boost, so I'm hoping that leaning it out takes care of it. Otherwise, I may have to look at more ignition related issues (new coil, re-gapping my plugs, etc.). Will report back once I start playing around with the SAFC.
- I adjusted my cam gears to typical suggested 2JZ spec (-3 Exhaust, +1 Intake). The turbo felt like it kicked in harder/lower, and overall power seems to have improved across the rev-range, so will be leaving that as-is. Someday when I hit a dyno I'll confirm the benefits but for now my butt dyno tells me that at least the low-end hit is undeniable. AFR's didn't lean out, however, and still stuck to 10.0:1 and lower.
- I installed a 10k potentiometer in parallel with the IAT, and IT WORKED! I did some math and found that at 30'C, the potentiometer should be set to 6.6K ohms to have the GM IAT + potentiometer match the OEM Toyota IAT, so I did so and instantly noticed my AFR's hit 10.2. I then kept dropping resistance (thus letting the ECU think I was pulling in hotter, less dense air than I was) and got my AFR's to as high as 10.6:1. Once I hit near zero it richened up to 9.9:1 again, which must be a fail-safe where the ECU determines that the IAT is faulty and dumps fuel. I backed it down to ~6-7k ohms to play it safe as I didn't know what else would be tweaked with the IAT. The one negative is that the potentiometer obviously won't scale with temp as the IAT will, so I'm going to calculate what the potentiometer should be set-at at a few other values and pick a happy medium.
It's still stumbling hard under boost, so I'm hoping that leaning it out takes care of it. Otherwise, I may have to look at more ignition related issues (new coil, re-gapping my plugs, etc.). Will report back once I start playing around with the SAFC.Installed the SAFC-Neo. When I did so I found my TPS was shot. I ordered another off Amazon but it never came in so I ended up just leaving everything below 4,000rpm alone and making adjustments from there up regardless of throttle position.
I shot for AFR's of 11.0:1 or lower, and had to essentially pull less and less fuel out as RPM's rose; that is, most adjustment's were done at 4k, and then substantially less at 6k-7k.
In terms of boost, the car will spike to around 13psi, then settle at 12. I don't want to push it any further than this being that the spike will happen at the point where I have made the largest adjustment with the SAFC, and thus where my timing is the most artificially advanced.
Right now, the car is still breaking up a bit under boost, particularly in the 5k-6k range, so the next step will be to replace the coils with brand spankin' new OEM Toyota coils, and tighten up the gap on the plugs a bit (running IK22's at stock .032 gap, will likely go to .028). Oh, and replace the TPS, of course.
Unfortunately, I'm in Australia (my 2nd home) again for the next year or so, so won't be able to do any of this until Summer 2018 at the earliest.
09-23-17, 12:03 AM
#3447
update
So i got my safc and i could pull 20% fuel after 4k rpm in hi throttle mod and 2ed gear and 3rd gear were on point 11/1 A/F ratio. but first was lean like 13-12 A/F. So i dialed it to 10% less fuel after 4k rpm and 1st is good to 11-1 but 2ed is 10-1 air fuel ratio and 3rd is 9-1
I think the varying load in the gears is the difference and i don't think i'll be able to use the safc to get what i need done. I'll need a better piggy back that can dial injector pulse width in with load or maybe use a MAF and MAP to calculate how much air is coming in compared to just the pressure its at.
The SAFC just makes the computer thinks there is less boost so it gives less fuel but that also results in more timing. Im thinking of wiring in my greddy BCC to limit the ecu to thinking 15 psi while i push 18 might be a solution without messing with the computer as much just caping it at 15-16 psi of fuel which might be have better air fuel ratios running 18-19 psi on boost controller. I am wary of losing the boost cut fail safe though..
Ugh i ran 15.9 15.0 14.5 at the track tonight... not good lol but my launch is bad without limited slip and having a 5 speed is more difficult 3500 seemed to be best rpm launch i'm running 17 psi on my boost controller
What do you think i could do to check the ignition system.. the car is running and driving under boost well so i would think its hard to diagnose maybe bigger gap on plugs and just see if it runs better?
I think the varying load in the gears is the difference and i don't think i'll be able to use the safc to get what i need done. I'll need a better piggy back that can dial injector pulse width in with load or maybe use a MAF and MAP to calculate how much air is coming in compared to just the pressure its at.
The SAFC just makes the computer thinks there is less boost so it gives less fuel but that also results in more timing. Im thinking of wiring in my greddy BCC to limit the ecu to thinking 15 psi while i push 18 might be a solution without messing with the computer as much just caping it at 15-16 psi of fuel which might be have better air fuel ratios running 18-19 psi on boost controller. I am wary of losing the boost cut fail safe though..
Ugh i ran 15.9 15.0 14.5 at the track tonight... not good lol but my launch is bad without limited slip and having a 5 speed is more difficult 3500 seemed to be best rpm launch i'm running 17 psi on my boost controller
What do you think i could do to check the ignition system.. the car is running and driving under boost well so i would think its hard to diagnose maybe bigger gap on plugs and just see if it runs better?
Last edited by scsexy; 09-23-17 at 12:11 AM.
09-25-17, 10:18 AM
#3448
can you list your whole setup again. you shouldn't have that many fueling issues with the tt ecu mod and you will hit boost cut around 17 psi at this altitude, so you need the bcc past that. hitting mid 12 afr wise in first is not a big deal, you wont have that much boost or load generally in first gear, so it shouldn't be an issue. I used to run 12 afr's in higher gears, but you don't want to get past 12.5:1 above 2nd, you want to be more on the 12 side.
loosing the boost cut feature can be a big deal if you overboost due to a melted line or line coming off wastegate etc... but it depends how much safety factor you have in your setup too. That is one of the reasons I ran the map ecu, its more complicated to get running right (way more) but you can keep the boost cut feature. you could also just set it to below boost cut and run with that until you get everything sorted out and then look to increase boost. with some 550's and a piggyback and your altitude you should be able to run a good amount before hitting boost cut as puling the map signal via a piggyback will also raise boost cut.
ignition wise what was your setup again and current plugs and gap? you want the most gap without washing out the spark. air fuel ratio will impact how far you can go, if your running rich then the gap will have to come down, if your tune is dialed in you can get away with larger gaps. also the coilpacks will allow for larger gaps. there isn't a one size fits all gaps you will have to experiment but generally smaller gap will be more consistent with less power, but larger gap can make more power but can be more touchy. IF you are currently having ignition issues, going to a larger gap isn't likely to help.
loosing the boost cut feature can be a big deal if you overboost due to a melted line or line coming off wastegate etc... but it depends how much safety factor you have in your setup too. That is one of the reasons I ran the map ecu, its more complicated to get running right (way more) but you can keep the boost cut feature. you could also just set it to below boost cut and run with that until you get everything sorted out and then look to increase boost. with some 550's and a piggyback and your altitude you should be able to run a good amount before hitting boost cut as puling the map signal via a piggyback will also raise boost cut.
ignition wise what was your setup again and current plugs and gap? you want the most gap without washing out the spark. air fuel ratio will impact how far you can go, if your running rich then the gap will have to come down, if your tune is dialed in you can get away with larger gaps. also the coilpacks will allow for larger gaps. there isn't a one size fits all gaps you will have to experiment but generally smaller gap will be more consistent with less power, but larger gap can make more power but can be more touchy. IF you are currently having ignition issues, going to a larger gap isn't likely to help.
09-27-17, 07:53 AM
#3449
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Hello everyone, I have read a lot of the comments on this thread and before spending anymore time and going through the whole thing, Im wondering if anyone has put a JDM vvti TT gte ecu on a 2001 2jzge out of an is300 (or any engine 98+, obd2 engine).
I see most people are doing this ecu mod on older ge's and I dont know if its the same for a newer ge. I know that there will be some changing of pins on my harness to work with the JDM TT vvti ecu but im not sure which wires need to be moved, or is it the same as on an older GE, just without wiring in the coil packs? I also shoudn't have to mess with my coils correct? I know I'll have to wire in a map sensor and change out my maf sensor for a JDM TT one. Do i also need to run a IAT along with my map? I also know I need to run 440 cc high impedence injectors.
Is there anything else im missing? And if someone could walk me through what pins I need to change around on my harness to work with the JDM vvti TT ecu that would be awesome!
I see most people are doing this ecu mod on older ge's and I dont know if its the same for a newer ge. I know that there will be some changing of pins on my harness to work with the JDM TT vvti ecu but im not sure which wires need to be moved, or is it the same as on an older GE, just without wiring in the coil packs? I also shoudn't have to mess with my coils correct? I know I'll have to wire in a map sensor and change out my maf sensor for a JDM TT one. Do i also need to run a IAT along with my map? I also know I need to run 440 cc high impedence injectors.
Is there anything else im missing? And if someone could walk me through what pins I need to change around on my harness to work with the JDM vvti TT ecu that would be awesome!
09-28-17, 02:52 PM
#3450
the ecu connector and pins are almost identical between a vvti 2jzge and vvti 2jzgte, there may be a couple pins that are different and I think I sent you a link to page 83 something that shows the pinouts.
the MAF has an IAT built in and is already wired on both the ge and gte harnesses. the coilpacks are wired the same on all vvti harnesses so you wont have to change anything there.
you will have to add the wiring for the map sensor if using the USDM 2jzge vvti harness.
some more info would help, like what car/year it is going into and what harnesses you have and which ones you are trying to use.
if your harness are out of an IS300, if you try and use the IS300 harness on a SC300 body, you will have to rewire the side that goes into the body plug of the car.
I''m assuming you are swapping into a sc300, so you could avoid body plug rewiring by using a sc300 98+ 2jzge vvti harness the SC was a later year model (I am not sure if the body plugs are the same for all years).
the engine side connector/wires are the same on a SC vs IS harness, it's the body plug that are different.
there is a thread in the performance section of someone doing a vvti ecu, so check that out also for more specific info.
he said there wasn't much differences at all on the pinouts, which makes sense cause in the old mod most of it was due to ignition being different, but on vvti the ignition is the same across the board.
map sensor you will need to wire if the ecu cares about it, not sure what it does without it but it will run with just the maf at the least until you get to it.
the MAF has an IAT built in and is already wired on both the ge and gte harnesses. the coilpacks are wired the same on all vvti harnesses so you wont have to change anything there.
you will have to add the wiring for the map sensor if using the USDM 2jzge vvti harness.
some more info would help, like what car/year it is going into and what harnesses you have and which ones you are trying to use.
if your harness are out of an IS300, if you try and use the IS300 harness on a SC300 body, you will have to rewire the side that goes into the body plug of the car.
I''m assuming you are swapping into a sc300, so you could avoid body plug rewiring by using a sc300 98+ 2jzge vvti harness the SC was a later year model (I am not sure if the body plugs are the same for all years).
the engine side connector/wires are the same on a SC vs IS harness, it's the body plug that are different.
there is a thread in the performance section of someone doing a vvti ecu, so check that out also for more specific info.
he said there wasn't much differences at all on the pinouts, which makes sense cause in the old mod most of it was due to ignition being different, but on vvti the ignition is the same across the board.
map sensor you will need to wire if the ecu cares about it, not sure what it does without it but it will run with just the maf at the least until you get to it.
