Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

You may want to start a new thread on your subject as it sound like you want to wire a vvti engine to a aem ems.

You can't do the non vvti tt ecu mod, the cam and crank setup are different.
The only tt ecu mod you can do it the vvti 2jzgte ecu. obd2 wont work but it wont work with a standalone either so that doesn't matter.

with the vvti 2jzgte ecu, your vvti will work, it will take the least wiring sa it literally plugs into your existing connector, and it will easily support what your vvti engine can handle cause your rods will fail above the 400 range. I think this has been covered somewhere in this thread and a few others, and is honestly the route I would take at first cause its really only a few wires that need changing around, it will need minimal tuning with the right injectors (i think its 440), and vvti will just work like stock. do note the vvti injectors are different than non vvti so make sure you have the right ones as it sounds like you have vvti and non vvti stuff mixed up and alot of things are different when dealing with a vvti motor. you can also use a non vvti 92-95 lower intake runner and the older fuel rail and use the older style injectors which are easier to find... I'm not even sure they make many larger size injectors for the vvti motors maybe you can get 440s or 550s.

Now to run an aem ems that has a connector for a non vvti, you will have to do what I wrote above and make a custom harness that fits the vvti engine and has a non vvti connector.
you will have to do all that or pay for a custom harness (probably close to a grand $), and then get the aem ems tuned ($500+) and vvti setup which can be done but its not the most advanced setup for controlling vvti.

so considering you have the right 440cc injectors, I would suggest you run the 2jzgte vvti ecu and sell your aem ems as it will still cost you alot of money to get it setup and working (I have 2 of them in my closet right now). get that working and use the smaller turbo, keep the boost low and work out the kinks. Since you can't go high power without rebuilding the bottom end, you want to keep the vvti and smaller turbo so you have as much power as possible early in the power curve and the 2jzgte vvti ecu will do all that stuff for you right out of the box, and you can get a piggyback if it needs some tweaking for your particular setup.

I wont go into the details of wiring a vvti harness to a non vvti connector if you want to use the aem cause its complicated and not really related to the tt ecu mod, but it can be done if thats the route you want to take.
also consider getting a patch harness to plug into the vvti harness and then cutting up the patch harness so you can go back if it doesn't work. there are alot of details about this stuff if you search is300 and aem as they use the same vvti connector. they even have versions of the aem the have plug and play harnesses to the vvti connector, so technically for a vvti engine you bought the wrong aem ems and will have to do a custom wiring job... it wont be plug and play.

RyanV

iTrader: (9)

Just want to throw a shout out to Ali, HiPSI and Omar for all the help and questions answered over the years. Thanks for the help!

I got my 1995 Supra NA up and running on a JDM Mines tuned Supra 6 speed ECU with 440 cc injectors last night/today.

I just did the ECU swap with stock distributor for now. Still have some thing's that I need to do before I can drive it, like have the bung for the IAT welded onto the intake pipe.



VVTI igniter wired up
C- for 2JZGE coil
B+ orange/black
Tach blk/wht
IGT1 red/white
blank
blank
IGF red/yellow
Ground to chassis ground under battery
blank
blank

High PSI

iTrader: (1)

I just finished the swap and I'm having some issues. The car is NA-T with a (now discontinued) ETS turbo kit which originally used a Vortech FMU (RRFPR) and the stock 330 injectors. I'm running the stock HG (10:1 comp) as I'm looking to build a quick spooling street setup around the limits of the W58 (eventually shooting for 10-12psi, maybe 14 once I start running water/meth in the low to mid 400whp range). On the complete ETS setup with a far less aggressive FMU discs (I think 4:1? It came with a 12:1 which was crazy rich...I think a complete oversight on ETS' part...) and the bleed screw backed out (which is supposed to drop it another point, so ~3:1) the car ran really strong at ~7.5psi; enough to pull on my friends 412CHP 2011 Mustang GT, and felt faster than my ~320AWHP DSM. The car ran perfect except that I hadn't gotten the chance to re-route my BOV, so the car stumbled if I let off and then coasted. Also, the car would also sometimes stumble on mid-throttle tip in, though I wasn't sure if this was due to the vented BOV w/ MAF issue or the stock ECU just freaking out. Beyond that, the car drove like a stock Lexus with about 2x the power. AFR's under boost were in the 10.5:1 to 11:1 range and the car was at a dead steady 14.7 at cruise and idle.

I did the TT ECU and COP swap with the hopes that the car would run flawlessly and that the more boost-friendly timing curve would allow me to up the boost to ~12psi (we have 93 at almost all, 94 at some, and even 95 with some planning pump gas here in CT), and would be safer in the long run than running the stock injectors at 100% duty with the added pressure.

Here's the new setup:
1995 SC300 5-Spd
1995 JDM Supra TT 5-Spd ECU
440cc Oside Tiger Injectors (new)
Walbro 255 Fuel Pump
Toyota JDM VVTi Map Sensor (used)
GM IAT (new - installed in the IC pipe prior to the TB)
VVTi Coils (used)
DS62 Ignitor (used)
Stock O2 sensor (anyone have a PN handy for a 2-bolt flanged 4-wire?)
Timing retarded...off the top of my head I think I set it at 6-degrees or so.
IK22 (7 heat range) plugs at factory gap .8mm ~=.315"
All steps done by the book (except those that didn't apply - 6 and 7, A/C relay and torque converter lock up)

After the swap, the car started and idled perfect, which was a big relief. As expected it starts out running rich, but then leans out to 14.7, fluctuating between 14 and high 15's (just of note, I believe the stock MAF deviated less from 14.7).

When driving, the car breaks up hard under the same 7.5psi of boost. Occasionally, at higher RPM's it will clean up, but even then it feels much slower than before (presuming this is due to the retarded base-timing and less aggressive timing curve, plus worse AFR). It's also running rich. I've put about 100-miles on it so far, and it does seem to have to leaned out a bit (under boost it initially pinned at 9.9:1, now AFR's start at ~9.9:1 and rise to 10.2-10.3 near red line). After driving and resuming idle, you can some times here a hiccup in the idle (random misfire). Other times, AFR's will suddenly plummet to 10:1-11:1, it will run rough and I have to give it a bit of throttle to keep it alive until I hear/feel it smooth out again, at which point AFR's resume 14.7:1 and I can drop my foot off the throttle. I've experienced the latter while cruising at a low speed as well (traffic, moving through a parking lot) - when this happens, it is hard to keep the car moving without modulating the clutch and throttle a bit. I don't think these idling/misfiring issues have happened from a cold start yet...only after a drive.

Also, the car will occasionally just cleanly (without a hiccup) die while idling, like the ignition has been shut off. It quickly starts up immediately after, however. As with the breaking-up issues above, I don't think this has ever happened when idling on a cold start...only after a drive.

Note that I haven't gotten any CEL's since the swap.

In summary, I have three issues since the mod:

1. Breaking up/stumbling under and off boost, randomly shutting down and randomly running uber rich at idle. (My guess is a coil?)
2. Running rich. (From what I've read, upping the boost will lean it out? I also have an SAFC-NEO kicking around that I never installed as I was told that the old MAF ECU would just learn around it. From what I gather, it will work with this ECU however. I think Ali suggested just leaning it out a bit above 4k RPM at WOT until I'm in the low-mid 11's?)
3. Car is slower than the prior setup. (I'm hoping that addressing #1 and #2 will fix this!).

Just looking for some confirmation that I'm on the right path before I start buying new coils and trying to use the SAFC to tune around another problem.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

Did you remove the FMU? the tt ecu will not like that. or set it to 1:1 rising like the stock one and maybe lower the base pressure a hair.
I would also get the heated o2 sensor, I forgot the part number for th 2 bolt one but they do have a universal 4 wire bolt one.
take the timing back to 8 degrees, and turn the boost up closer to 10 psi, the engine should be fine with that and it will lean it out some. 9:1 range you will probably wash out some spark is why its feeling slower.
Ideally you want it in the 11:1 range with that ecu. its possible its flowing a little too much with those particular 440's but see if the 8 degrees and extra boots cures it before adding a piggyback to adjust for the injectors. the hiccup is just left over fuel from being so rich in boost I am guessing and not a big deal, the map sensor cars will do that until you get it all dialed in.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

Looking good!! let us know how it goes!

High PSI

iTrader: (1)

Yes, the FMU came off with the factory injectors and ECU. I was hoping that the factory ECU would run a bit leaner (11:1) out of the gate to be honest...I was rather shocked that I was seeing 9.9:1-10:1 in boost (richer than the FMU with the 3:1 setup!) but again here's hoping that a bit more boost takes care of that. I'll try all of the above and let you know how I go, though I'm surprised/confused by your suggestion that the hiccups at idle and low-throttle are due from it being too rich in boost, as even when I ran the car with factory ECU and distributor at the insanely rich 12:1 Vortech FMU disc (and the car was stumbling through AFR's of 9.5:1 and richer) the car always idled and cruised OK.. Wouldn't the coils be better (as opposed to worse) than handling this post-rich load scenario? Are you suggesting this has something to do with MAF vs MAP? Forgive my ignorance...this is my first time building/tuning a MAP based car.

For the 2-bolt O2 sensor, any clue if a Denso 234-4520 would work? It's a 4-wire for a 93-95 Toyota Land Cruiser 4.5L-L6. I'm thinking same year Toyota straight-6 is a good place to start.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

the factory ecu runs really rich which is why you can usually raise the boost alot with a boost controller until you hit a 12 afr. different injectors will all flow different so its possible yours are flowing a bit more than the factory ones are which is where a piggyback would come in to fix that.
since you are on sock compression you are a little limited in the boost department, but turning boost up to where its a 11 afr should get you in a happy medium, hopefully that is before boost cut I would try like 10-12 psi.

the hiccups should only be there after coming off boost and is 100% a map sensor thing, whats your routing like, make the vac hose as short as possible, also make sure to get it from a good spot where are you tapping from? I found one of the most stable places is to use a tee on the short fuel pressure regulator line and those are the only 2 on that line.
ideally the extra timing and not being so rich in boost by turning the boost up a bit should help out with the rich condition. also the 4 wire o2 will make a slight difference.
if you have a blow off valve that vents to atmosphere it can make the problem alot more noticeable. try shimming the spring so its a little tighter or consider a recirculating kind, but mine was fine with the tial open to atmosphere and it does make it swing a little rich but never enough to stall. sounds like yours is doing more so try the above suggestions first. you will enjoy the extra boost and 8 degrees should help out at idle I think 6 is a little low generally but is a safe place to start. you could probably even run 10 degrees with low enough boost you are talking about.

whats it idling at? sometimes to help with the rich issue it helps to crack the throttle plate a hair more open as the tt has a slightly larger throttle body factory.
just be sure to check the tps is still in range (timing check sound thing) and adjust if necessary. dont crack the throttle plate too much or the tps wont adjust back enough.

the landcruiser one would probably work but you can get the generic 4 wire 2 bolt for a quarter of that price without the connector... your harness wont have the other side of the connector anyway. if you go on the denso site I think there is a chart and i might have posted somewhere towards the start of the thread.
edit* this might be it but double check not positive on it Denso 234-4206, im also seeing a few others that look really similar can't remember which one is the right one.

apparently I wrote this in 2015:

RyanV

iTrader: (9)

Finished up the coil install. It runs great. Pulls nice and smooth.

quick vid
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y7pZlSdUeFI&feature=youtu.be



planning to wrap the wires with some thermo tec high temp sleeve


You can replace that little pipe plug with a 'map gas filter' for $15 at Toyota. Then you have a dedicated spot for the map sensor. I had to remove the vacuum tree entirely.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

looks great!! nice job

High PSI

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the reply Ali.

The car was now running rough (felt like a cylinder or two were down) from a fresh start. I pulled my timing belt cover off so that I could access the #1 plug wire and time the ignition, and found this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9jb0...ature=youtu.be

I turned the car off and pushed the coil down with a long flat-blade screwdriver. When I started the car again, it stopped stumbling. I then carefully put the timing belt cover back on, and the arcing and stumbling didn't come back (though from listening to the exhaust I can still hear a random misfire). I'm not sure if this coil was loose on the plug the entire time, or if it just happened when I pulled the TB cover off. I haven't driven it yet so I suppose we will see if that was the cause of some of my problems or not.

I don't plan on going above the factory boost cut (~14psi?) with the stock HG, so if I'm hitting that and it is still in the 10's I'll back down to just below cut and start pulling fuel with the SAFC I have.

I've noticed the hiccups were pretty consistent - the car was even stumbling from a fresh start and with light throttle on an uphill at ~14:1 AFR, no boost... though we'll see if it was just because the coil was sitting off the plug. I'm tapping off the FPR as you suggested with a relatively short hose.



I re-checked the timing and found it was actually already in the "8" range (hard to tell - I have an ATI Super Damper which reads a bit off the timing cover...), so I didn't touch it. 4-wire O2 sensor is getting wired within the next couple of days. I just re-did my intake with a 4" pipe and recirculating my BOV would be a giant pain so I'm going to avoid that for the time being. It is an older HKS SSQV with the adjustment on the back so increasing pressure is easy, but it flutters a bit as-is so if anything I might be looking to loosen it in the future. Will leave it as it is for now though so as not to introduce any further variables.

It's at about 700rpm - I believe where it was with the stock ECU. AFR's are at 14.7 at idle though so I don't think this would help? It's really only under boost I'm strikingly rich.

After I asked here I actually stumbled across a thread on SupraForums where you referenced those two O2 sensors. As a reference for others who want a clip-in O2 sensor, I ended up cross-referencing the 234-4206 (4 wire universal with 2 bolt flange) and found that people were using them in place of a 234-4161, which had the OEM Toyota plug but was typically much more expensive. I ended up finding the 234-4161 online for under $50, so I ordered that with an matching OEM Toyota pigtail off eBay because I'm **** like that.

By this weekend I should have the car on the road with a few changes:
-MBC (10psi to start, maybe 12 if I get greedy)
-3.5" to 4" Intake pulling from the area in front of the front passenger-side wheel as opposed to the engine bay (I've read the IAT sensor doesn't compensate well, which is why some can get by doing this mod with leaving it hanging in the engine bay. Perhaps it won't completely compensate for the cooler/denser air I'm pulling in and it will assist in leaning out my AFR's?)
-4-wire O2 Sensor
-Coil properly seated?

If the above don't address my issues, my next plan of attack is to replace that center coil with a new OEM Toyota piece and make a custom bracket to hold all three down...unless you think I should focus my attention elsewhere?

High PSI

iTrader: (1)

Made the changes above.

The Good - car runs and drives perfect off boost. No more misfiring, stumbling, etc.

The Great - Due to a brainfart and blindly following some poor Tial WG instructions as opposed to trusting my own intuition, I initially plumbed in my MBC incorrectly which effectively held my WG shut. This could have been bad news had the TT ECU's boost-cut not stepped in!

The Bad - still running rich under boost - 9.9:1 with a flash of no more than an even 10.0:1. Also breaking up under boost, though not nearly as bad a before. The car seems to break up mostly in the mid-range and then smooths out a little bit towards red line. I went from 8psi up to ~11.5 and didn't see any changes in AFR's.

At this point, I believe the majority of my problems were due to the poorly-seated coil, and what's left is just due to the car running rich. I have only put 40-miles on it since I did the above work and reset the ECU, so I'm hoping it leans out a bit in time with some driving. I also have adjustable cam-gears on the car that I have always left straight-up. I'm looking to do the supra-standard setting of retarding the exhaust 3 degrees and advancing the intake 1-2, which, apparently in addition to adding a bit or power over the entire curve on its own, also increases the VE of the engine and will lean things out (one guy noted an increase in AFR of .7 to 1.0). Since the gears are on the car I'll start there and see if that puts my AFR's in the high-10's/low-11's. If not, time to put the SAFC on.

High PSI

iTrader: (1)

Was doing a bit of research last night, stumbled across a thread here (http://www.mapecu.co.nz/forum/showth...-cold-out-side), with the following comment:

"Have you tried installing a 2200 ohm resistor instead of the IAT to disable IAT compensation?

The IAT is a NTC device which means it has a negative temperature coefficient. As temperature reduces, resistance increases and as temp goes up, resistance decreases. Hence it is called a negative temperature coefficient, it is reverse. The alternative is to place a resistor in parallel with the IAT so as it cools, it limits the increase in resistance of the IAT and therefore how much richer the AFR's become. The problem with doing that is it will also alter the resistance and therefore AFR at normal temperatures where your AFR is 14.7:1. Some people but a variable resistor (potentiometer) in parallel with the IAT so they can adjust the balance. A 10,000 ohm or 22,000 ohm pot would probably be a good starting point."

I'm currently using a GM IAT. Based on the Toyota IAT table found here (http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthr...sor-resistance!) and the GM table, found here (http://pe-ltd.com/assets/air_temp.pdf) it looks like the GM IAT is producing resistance values that are consistently greater than what a Toyota IAT would, and thus as a NTC device, in consistently making the ECU think that the car is taking in cooler (denser) air than it is. I may try putting a potentiometer in parallel with the GM IAT so that I can reduce its ohm readings to the point that it is on-par with a Toyota IAT.

I recall reading earlier in this thread that you said it doesn't have too much influence on the fuel map but I'd rather give that a stab as a last-ditch effort before I throw on a SAFC and inadvertently start advancing my timing.

RyanV

iTrader: (9)

Have you tried new vvti coil boots? I have the same 440s as you from Oside. They might be flowing a bit more than stock injectors. I'd try an AFC. I bought an Apexi NEO second hand for like 200, and a 2JZ jumper harness for 100. I also think a fresh 4 wire 02 would help all around.

This is the NEO wired into the jumper

ScBouncE

Welp, it's about that time. Gonna be tackling the tt ecu usdm version on my 97 SC. Seems like it's still a pain to get it running perfectly. I'm hoping this MAPECU2 will be a difference maker. Been doing my best to filter thru this thread collecting information.

This is how it sits now

frankielal

Hey guys just finished up my engine swap and tt ecu mod on a 94 toyota pickup. Have been following this thread for a while now and google has definitely been my friend searching this thread. Solved lots of problems looking at what people have been going through. There is one thing that I haven't found and I'm sure it's somewhere on this thread I just haven't been able to find it.

I have an aem wideband installed and on 60% throttle I'm running lean around 14.7 to 15.7 and at idle its also 14.7 to 14.1.

setup:
no turbo N/A for now
custom ffim
90mm tb
remote iscv (just like what ali did with his long time ago)
gte headgasket
stock fuel rail
440 stock obd1 injectors
bosch 044 fuel pump
-8an fuel inlet
-6an fuel outlet
Fuel cell and custom fuel lines
fuel pressure regulator
I'm running fuel pressure at 60psi because at 30psi my afrs are at 16 to 17 on throttle and at idle its at 14.7.


Now my question. When running a large throttle body do I have to upgrade the injectors or at least have some kind of piggy back to correct the fuel map or is that compensated through the ecu.

Please let me know what you guys think any kind of advice will help. I've checked my wiring numerous amounts of time because of some wiring mistakes I've made when I was doing the harness. Everything checks out for the sensors also. tested the map sensor even swapped it out. Bought the gm iat brand new. Coils are brand new and even swapped out with other used coils. brand new spark plugs double checked spark plug gap. Checked coolant temp sensor for the ecu that checked out. Coolant temps run at 180F. Checked timing and tps. timing is at 10 degrees and tps idles down the car when timing the car. Also adjusted tps how the tsrm does it through ohms and feeler gauges. I'm at a loss but I'm sure it's going to be something obvious as it always is for me. Here's a picture of my swap. Excuse the zipties those arn't permanent.