2JZGE Na-T TT Ecu Mod
03-24-17, 12:19 PM
#3361
Do you (Ali) or anyone else know the part number for the Greddy boost cut controller or speed cut controller.
I think the Greddy BCC isn't being produced anymore and the replacement on supra store wont work with our ecu's because it wants a MAF as well.
I think the Greddy BCC isn't being produced anymore and the replacement on supra store wont work with our ecu's because it wants a MAF as well.
03-24-17, 01:27 PM
#3362
the original greddy bcc you usually find the mr2 one which uses the same map sensor as the 1j/2j, so its the greddy unit that says "sw20" on it. there is a jza80 one but I rarely see them.
oh and the supra store one is the same thing more or less, it will work with the jdm ecu. they are just saying if you cap the map sensor then you should have a piggyback.
that is true to a certain extent unless you are already running so rich that you can just turn it up to where its still a good afr.
the same thing applies to the original greddy bcc. the supra store one is pricey though.
there is also DIY versions, I posted a thread about building your own bcc and speed cut controller circuits but requires more work obviously.
if you are manual, to get past speed cut you can just pull the speed wire to the ecu, you might get a check light but it will work. you can also put it on a switch for when you need to go over 110mph you just flip it off. If you are auto then you probably want the real speed cut controller or build the circuit.
I usually prefer to just find a piggyback that will do boost cut also, like the map ecu etc... even a safc will raise the boost cut if you go with larger injectors cause you will be pulling airflow then to compensate thus raising boost cut... really depends just what your future plans are and injector size etc. the map ecu is more versatile for doing all that stuff but much more complicated to setup than a safc.
oh and the supra store one is the same thing more or less, it will work with the jdm ecu. they are just saying if you cap the map sensor then you should have a piggyback.
that is true to a certain extent unless you are already running so rich that you can just turn it up to where its still a good afr.
the same thing applies to the original greddy bcc. the supra store one is pricey though.
there is also DIY versions, I posted a thread about building your own bcc and speed cut controller circuits but requires more work obviously.
if you are manual, to get past speed cut you can just pull the speed wire to the ecu, you might get a check light but it will work. you can also put it on a switch for when you need to go over 110mph you just flip it off. If you are auto then you probably want the real speed cut controller or build the circuit.
I usually prefer to just find a piggyback that will do boost cut also, like the map ecu etc... even a safc will raise the boost cut if you go with larger injectors cause you will be pulling airflow then to compensate thus raising boost cut... really depends just what your future plans are and injector size etc. the map ecu is more versatile for doing all that stuff but much more complicated to setup than a safc.
03-24-17, 09:23 PM
#3363
the original greddy bcc you usually find the mr2 one which uses the same map sensor as the 1j/2j, so its the greddy unit that says "sw20" on it. there is a jza80 one but I rarely see them.
oh and the supra store one is the same thing more or less, it will work with the jdm ecu. they are just saying if you cap the map sensor then you should have a piggyback.
that is true to a certain extent unless you are already running so rich that you can just turn it up to where its still a good afr.
the same thing applies to the original greddy bcc. the supra store one is pricey though.
there is also DIY versions, I posted a thread about building your own bcc and speed cut controller circuits but requires more work obviously.
if you are manual, to get past speed cut you can just pull the speed wire to the ecu, you might get a check light but it will work. you can also put it on a switch for when you need to go over 110mph you just flip it off. If you are auto then you probably want the real speed cut controller or build the circuit.
I usually prefer to just find a piggyback that will do boost cut also, like the map ecu etc... even a safc will raise the boost cut if you go with larger injectors cause you will be pulling airflow then to compensate thus raising boost cut... really depends just what your future plans are and injector size etc. the map ecu is more versatile for doing all that stuff but much more complicated to setup than a safc.
oh and the supra store one is the same thing more or less, it will work with the jdm ecu. they are just saying if you cap the map sensor then you should have a piggyback.
that is true to a certain extent unless you are already running so rich that you can just turn it up to where its still a good afr.
the same thing applies to the original greddy bcc. the supra store one is pricey though.
there is also DIY versions, I posted a thread about building your own bcc and speed cut controller circuits but requires more work obviously.
if you are manual, to get past speed cut you can just pull the speed wire to the ecu, you might get a check light but it will work. you can also put it on a switch for when you need to go over 110mph you just flip it off. If you are auto then you probably want the real speed cut controller or build the circuit.
I usually prefer to just find a piggyback that will do boost cut also, like the map ecu etc... even a safc will raise the boost cut if you go with larger injectors cause you will be pulling airflow then to compensate thus raising boost cut... really depends just what your future plans are and injector size etc. the map ecu is more versatile for doing all that stuff but much more complicated to setup than a safc.
These plans are doable but i'm a student/working so i'm trying to go slow but right. I'm an apprentice Toyota technician, I'm ASE certified in electrical and i'll but fully ASE certified in the next year and expert Toyota.
I went with the tt ecu mod so i wouldn't have to deal with the aftermarket tuning. I had an AEM FIC and it was okay on my auto but i could never get it perfect. I know i'll have to do something to attain 500 but i'll be happy with the limit of the tt ecu for the next 2 years, Till i'm ready to spend money working full time.
I was thinking of adding a switch to defeat the speed cut. Do you remember what pin is the speed sensor on at the ecu? i spent about 20 minutes today trying to find it and couldn't but i can look again.
03-27-17, 09:29 AM
#3364
2jzgte pinout:
http://wilbo666.pbworks.com/w/page/3...ngine%20Wiring
looks like speed signal #1 is pin 2 on 40 pin plug.
there is also a 2nd speed sensor on the 80 pin plug pin 3.
I think the speed limit defencer uses the first one.
http://wilbo666.pbworks.com/w/page/3...ngine%20Wiring
looks like speed signal #1 is pin 2 on 40 pin plug.
there is also a 2nd speed sensor on the 80 pin plug pin 3.
I think the speed limit defencer uses the first one.
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gerrb (03-30-17)
03-28-17, 07:21 PM
#3366
I was having very frequent random stalling issues so I ditched the q45 TPS and went with the sc300 TPS. I also changed the spark plugs (fouled due to running rich with the wrong size injectors).
It fired right up and then the RPMS shot all the way to red line, then back down then all the way to redline... over and over. Scared the crap out of me at first. I'm thinking it's a TPS thing.
It fired right up and then the RPMS shot all the way to red line, then back down then all the way to redline... over and over. Scared the crap out of me at first. I'm thinking it's a TPS thing.
03-29-17, 06:42 AM
#3369
Hoping someone can help that has had this exact issue. I have read most of this thread and researched for weeks and I am running out of options.
Here is the history of the car, I picked up an MKIV shell about a year ago with nothing but the dash. On a budget i decided to use my brothers spare GE with w58 he had laying and picked up a uncut NA 5spd supra harness then dropped it right in with a turbo.The car started right up and of course extremely rich. It was bogging and breaking up through all levels and occasionally cut off at WOT, then i would let off the gas and let it catch up. At that point I replaced wires,plugs, rotor/cap, new coil, fuel filter, MAF, Walbro 255 and FPR. Car was not driveable even not boosting at all. And I know it could be the ecu tripping out etc. So i unhooked the turbo piping and attached the stock maf and filter to see if it made a difference and no, issues remained. Continue to hit a wall at WOT and constant bogging throughout powerband.
After reading this entire thread, I decided to bite the bullet and do this mod. I did vvti coils and ignitor, oem MAP sensor, JDM aristo ecu. GM IAT. 550cc rx7 injectors ( I know aristo is 440 but these were laying around the garage and i wanted to see how it would run)
Car fired up right away and took it for a drive and SAME problems persisted BUT it was able to boost if i backed off the throttle.
I have switched and forth from the Walbro to stock pump, aftermarket FPR to stock, switched back to the 330cc injectors even bought iridium plugs, added grounds. Tried many combinations. I know i should be using 440's but even with the 330's, i would have the same issues just not as rich.
I will get some sort of FC, but I could the difference in injectors cause all this? Im just afraid the problem will remain afterwards because this happened before and after the ecu mod. I am completely stumped! Ive searched and searched and tried many things that worked for others.
HELP!
Here is the history of the car, I picked up an MKIV shell about a year ago with nothing but the dash. On a budget i decided to use my brothers spare GE with w58 he had laying and picked up a uncut NA 5spd supra harness then dropped it right in with a turbo.The car started right up and of course extremely rich. It was bogging and breaking up through all levels and occasionally cut off at WOT, then i would let off the gas and let it catch up. At that point I replaced wires,plugs, rotor/cap, new coil, fuel filter, MAF, Walbro 255 and FPR. Car was not driveable even not boosting at all. And I know it could be the ecu tripping out etc. So i unhooked the turbo piping and attached the stock maf and filter to see if it made a difference and no, issues remained. Continue to hit a wall at WOT and constant bogging throughout powerband.
After reading this entire thread, I decided to bite the bullet and do this mod. I did vvti coils and ignitor, oem MAP sensor, JDM aristo ecu. GM IAT. 550cc rx7 injectors ( I know aristo is 440 but these were laying around the garage and i wanted to see how it would run)
Car fired up right away and took it for a drive and SAME problems persisted BUT it was able to boost if i backed off the throttle.
I have switched and forth from the Walbro to stock pump, aftermarket FPR to stock, switched back to the 330cc injectors even bought iridium plugs, added grounds. Tried many combinations. I know i should be using 440's but even with the 330's, i would have the same issues just not as rich.
I will get some sort of FC, but I could the difference in injectors cause all this? Im just afraid the problem will remain afterwards because this happened before and after the ecu mod. I am completely stumped! Ive searched and searched and tried many things that worked for others.
HELP!
03-29-17, 08:14 AM
#3370
had an issue with the photo links, it should be showing up now.
blacksc, its hard to say because both combinations were not run properly, the n/a ecu was run with a turbo which does cause it to trip out alot.
the aristo ecu will act funny with the 550cc and the 330cc due to the fuel being off. Its hard to say what the problem could be, could be wiring or a sensor or a part gone bad.
likely you could have some issue but I haven't had that exact one, sounds like you covered alot of the basics. You will eventually need the right size injectors or a piggyback so you might want to get it out of the way.
I would have probably troubleshooted the problem on the GE ecu without a turbo cause you were matching different parts. its also possible the engine has an issue like a head gasket or something hard to say.
blacksc, its hard to say because both combinations were not run properly, the n/a ecu was run with a turbo which does cause it to trip out alot.
the aristo ecu will act funny with the 550cc and the 330cc due to the fuel being off. Its hard to say what the problem could be, could be wiring or a sensor or a part gone bad.
likely you could have some issue but I haven't had that exact one, sounds like you covered alot of the basics. You will eventually need the right size injectors or a piggyback so you might want to get it out of the way.
I would have probably troubleshooted the problem on the GE ecu without a turbo cause you were matching different parts. its also possible the engine has an issue like a head gasket or something hard to say.
The following users liked this post:
blacksc (03-29-17)
03-30-17, 05:55 AM
#3371
had an issue with the photo links, it should be showing up now.
blacksc, its hard to say because both combinations were not run properly, the n/a ecu was run with a turbo which does cause it to trip out alot.
the aristo ecu will act funny with the 550cc and the 330cc due to the fuel being off. Its hard to say what the problem could be, could be wiring or a sensor or a part gone bad.
likely you could have some issue but I haven't had that exact one, sounds like you covered alot of the basics. You will eventually need the right size injectors or a piggyback so you might want to get it out of the way.
I would have probably troubleshooted the problem on the GE ecu without a turbo cause you were matching different parts. its also possible the engine has an issue like a head gasket or something hard to say.
blacksc, its hard to say because both combinations were not run properly, the n/a ecu was run with a turbo which does cause it to trip out alot.
the aristo ecu will act funny with the 550cc and the 330cc due to the fuel being off. Its hard to say what the problem could be, could be wiring or a sensor or a part gone bad.
likely you could have some issue but I haven't had that exact one, sounds like you covered alot of the basics. You will eventually need the right size injectors or a piggyback so you might want to get it out of the way.
I would have probably troubleshooted the problem on the GE ecu without a turbo cause you were matching different parts. its also possible the engine has an issue like a head gasket or something hard to say.
This may have been found out alot sooner if my CEL panel worked and I could of just checked for code. It turns out, before I installed the turbo and thought it was the MAF giving me these issues and replaced it with a known working one and problem persisted, so i never thought anything of it. When i decided to do the TT ECU mod with coils and all, I believed that alone would solve my problem but didn't. I triple checked the wiring and after reading many threads, i started to believe i was just unlucky with broken ECU's. Since both MAF's on GE and with the tt ecu MAP gave me same problems. Ive unplugged and plugged the sensors back in so I figured it was something else entirely but I went ahead and tested the MAP sensor with a volt meter even though in my head I thought it was a complete waste of time.
Then there it was, wire 3 gave me nothing and wire 2 which i thought was suppose to give me 0v but gave me 5V. So i immediately thought i had switched the wires around and now my MAP is fried. At this point I was getting very frustrated. I looked back at the diagrams and matched the colors and I was stumped on why i was receiving 5V from the signal wire at the plug and pin 62, didnt make sense to me. I was about to just switch around pin 3 and 2 on the plug and hook it back and give it a try. (good thing i didn't). I went directly to the ecu and sourced another 5v and ran a wire to the engine bay to hook it to the sensor and probe the center pin on the sensor. What a relief it was to see 2.6V. Only thing boggling my head was why pin 2 on the plug gave me 5V and 3 gave me nothing because i thought it was the other was around and how was it getting 5V if the sensor was not connected. Checked again to make sure pin 66 was suppose to be moved to pin 62 and that pin 62 is suppose to receive the signal from the MAP sensor and not deliver 5v.
I said screw it! I connected the 5V wire i ran to the engine bay that I sourced from a pin on the ecu to pin 3 on the plug and left the ground and pin 2. Now the meter would read 5V at 3 and 2 on the plug. With hesitation and fear of frying the MAP, I plugged the sensor in and started the car and took her for a spin. She ran just like my brothers TT supra's and I could finally enjoy the car. I definitely learned the lesson to not make assumptions.
03-30-17, 08:14 AM
#3372
Yeah that is a bit of a weird one, I have seen 5v on the signal pin before and my thought is that the signal pin will show 5v from the ecu side when the map sensor is not outputting anything and the signal pin is connected to the ecu.
once the map sensor is working it will lower the signal pin to the correct voltage. so it sounds like your 5v wire wasn't good for some reason. glad you figured it out that is a tough one without the cel.
if you had the check light in it would have thrown like a code 32 or something similar can't remember the exact number.
once the map sensor is working it will lower the signal pin to the correct voltage. so it sounds like your 5v wire wasn't good for some reason. glad you figured it out that is a tough one without the cel.
if you had the check light in it would have thrown like a code 32 or something similar can't remember the exact number.
03-30-17, 09:35 AM
#3374
Yeah my father keeps bugging me about installing the winch its sitting in the corner of his dining room for several months now lol.
will get to it by summer... wanted to go to the Toyota Jamboree in texas this year but I don't think I have the time to get it ready and make the drive there and back so next year will be the one.
Do you like the tail light gaurds? I dunno about them but I am planning on a rear bumper to even out the color scheme... it seems every couple months new products are coming out for the GX so I am waiting on the tight rear bumper to come out.
will get to it by summer... wanted to go to the Toyota Jamboree in texas this year but I don't think I have the time to get it ready and make the drive there and back so next year will be the one.
Do you like the tail light gaurds? I dunno about them but I am planning on a rear bumper to even out the color scheme... it seems every couple months new products are coming out for the GX so I am waiting on the tight rear bumper to come out.
03-31-17, 10:20 AM
#3375
Update...
I swapped out the fuel relay with the defrost relay to see what would happen. Viola! It idles fine, no stallling and left like that for 20 minutes. Didn't have time to take it for a spin, but I'm surprised at the result. If the problem is a bad fuel relay I'm puzzled how it would start for a minute then stall and not start.
I swapped out the fuel relay with the defrost relay to see what would happen. Viola! It idles fine, no stallling and left like that for 20 minutes. Didn't have time to take it for a spin, but I'm surprised at the result. If the problem is a bad fuel relay I'm puzzled how it would start for a minute then stall and not start.