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It could have something to do with it, is it making the change in sound when you go to adjust the timing? if it is that is the position you want it in, don't adjust it after that.
normally I use the toyota tps adapter... its possible to get the q45 to work but I don't like to mess around with them.
you also might need more idle air if its idling low when warmed up, crack the throttle body open a hair more but you will need to adjust the tps then also.
yes, the engine makes a slight change in sound when I put the jumper in. I got it set to 10 degrees. When the car is warm it idles at 1000, but shortly after it warms up it stalls.
It could have something to do with it, is it making the change in sound when you go to adjust the timing? if it is that is the position you want it in, don't adjust it after that.
normally I use the toyota tps adapter... its possible to get the q45 to work but I don't like to mess around with them.
you also might need more idle air if its idling low when warmed up, crack the throttle body open a hair more but you will need to adjust the tps then also.
yes, the engine makes a slight change in sound when I put the jumper in. I got it set to 10 degrees. When the car is warm it idles at 1000, but shortly after it warms up it stalls. I wired it like so.
The Ge and GTE tps spin opposite directions requiring different wiring, so make sure to use the diagram for the ge tps plug, or take the gte diagram and flip the 4 pins at the toyota plug.
1000 should be more than enough idle air when warm, so that sounds fine. not sure why its stalling could be lots of things including a leak or an issue with the ecu or map sensor.
Well a bit of an update, the car still isn't running. I sent my ecu to someone who had a gte swap on there car and they were able to verify it does work. I also redone my ecu pins thinking I might have a problem there but it didn't solve anything.
Another thing worth mentioning is all the wires I ran I did with 16 gauge wire and not something smaller like stock wires. Could this be posibly interfering with anything?
my igniter looks like this
there are 5 wires, ive read the write up over and over. on the left what is labeled "old ignitor" there are wires going into that that are cut like the tach. and spot 2 on the vvti igniter says b+ splice old wire on this diagram that spot 2 doesnt have any 12v source going to it and what does splice old wire mean, im sorry for asking these i having trouble understanding, if someone could post an up close picture that would help a lot, pre 96 since mine is 92
that is the original 1 coil ignitor. you must completely remove that ignitor and use those wires to wire up the new ds62 or dh61 ignitor.
its only on the diagram to show where those wires originally went.
from the first page
First remove all the pins/wires out from the old ignitor plug, and then insert them into the new ds62 ignitor plug as shown in the diagram, this includes +B, tach, IGT1, IGF.
you only run 2 new wires from the ecu and that is IGT2 and IGT3.
Then you add a ground wire and ground it to chassis ground or even battery ground.
For the 4 wires to the coils, you run the 3 signal wires (coils 1-3) to the new coils, and for the +B for the coil you have to splice off the +B wire you just moved over from the old ignitor.
Hey Guys what are your A/F ratios on start up. Mine are really high 19/1 until i actually give it gas and/or start driving. When I'm driving its good stays around 14.7 cruising and lowers as i go into boost. When I'm going down a mountian using second the slow the car its at 19/1 but that is normal. When i'm just coasting in nuetral but have any sort of speed the car is searching for 14.7 like it should (14.2-15.6)
I seem to hit 9/1's though once i'm really into boost 10-14psi ish which seems a little rich. I was told to give it more boost by my friend whose a master toyota tech to get rid of the 9's in high boost. I'm just on my waste gate spring pressure at the moment.
I'm going to check on the caps in the ecu but it runs so consistently like this that i'm not sure if its normal or what's going on. I'm running a jdm 6 speed ecu supra ecu. My cars a 1993 manual with a mostly xs-power kit on it.
So i started it up today and after 30 seconds a minute of idleing its at 11-12/1 afr.. i'm thinking maybe its my wideband not getting enough air with my turbo in the way or my GM air temp sensor is to blame because today it was really nice out instead of cold.
19:1 is pretty lean for startup if the car is cold, this is not normal but give the ecu a few cycles to learn and see if it cold starts at 11-13 range like its supposed to.
its possible the wideband is not fully warmed up yet also. if the car is hot started then 17:1 is normal for like 30 seconds or so.
other stuff sounds normal. yeah these care will run 10:1 or richer on lower boost levels, crank it up to 14-16psi and it will be better.
or if you don't want to turn it up throw in a manual boost controller and just set it 1 psi higher, it will keep the gate from opening early and you get better spool and a little better afr also.
11-12 afr is what a cold start is supposed to be, then it should lean out to 14.7 ish after about 1 minute of idling.
if its colder it should start out richer, if its warmer you might see 12-13 on cold start until the o2 kicks in then 14.7 ish.
the air temp sensor can have a small effect on afr, but not enough to make it 19:1.
alot of people use the GM air temp sensor just make sure its not heatsoaking, as in it should have air moving past it.
I cold started it yesterday and it was perfect sitting at 11-12 after about 20 seconds for the wideband to start working. Warm starts it stays at 19 for quite a while at least a minute or 2 before it goes down or if i give it gas it starts going towards 14.7 sooner
I understand the engine has no load so it can be lean its not hurting anything at idle. It acts great driving under load...
I think its probably my Wideband considering its a 120 dollar one not an aem or something quality.
The Chevy temp sensor is just zip tied in my engine bay near my map sensor both are where the original intake box would have sat
This thread is seriously in danger of being closed !
The OP is on a " now you see him , now you don't " status.
I guess he is still enjoying playing around with his RAMBO GX470 on the Colorado snowy slopes that is why you seldom see him here.
What's up buddy ? I haven't seen a picture of your GX with the roof rack and btw , people on this thread are anxious to see your posts on this thread .
I cold started it yesterday and it was perfect sitting at 11-12 after about 20 seconds for the wideband to start working. Warm starts it stays at 19 for quite a while at least a minute or 2 before it goes down or if i give it gas it starts going towards 14.7 sooner
I understand the engine has no load so it can be lean its not hurting anything at idle. It acts great driving under load...
I think its probably my Wideband considering its a 120 dollar one not an aem or something quality.
The Chevy temp sensor is just zip tied in my engine bay near my map sensor both are where the original intake box would have sat
That sounds pretty normal and mine did the same, it might be a bit worse because your sensor is zip tied in the bay, it will heatsoak that way, try and stick it in the turbo intake pipe at some point.
Originally Posted by gerrb
This thread is seriously in danger of being closed !
The OP is on a " now you see him , now you don't " status.
I guess he is still enjoying playing around with his RAMBO GX470 on the Colorado snowy slopes that is why you seldom see him here.
What's up buddy ? I haven't seen a picture of your GX with the roof rack and btw , people on this thread are anxious to see your posts on this thread .
Lol, funny I haven't had much time to play with the GX been dealing with the audi and vacationing recently.
I do like the Rambo GX name might have to borrow that
I'll snap some pics of the GX soon, but here are some of the audi finally running well and cleaned after almost 2 years of collecting dust.
sound clip of the custom exhaust and me burning my new clutch
I think i figured most of it out. My wide band needs a second to like wake up and sense normal air before i start the car. If i turn my ignition on for like 10 seconds before turning the car on all the air fuels are perfect from start up at 11-12 and it slowly rises as it warms
Oh and Gerrb I do look at SC's every now and then, if I see the right one I may just have to scoop one up and see what happens lol.
i was about to say, as much stuff you know about these cars and all the lusting you have in you heart for one I'm surprised you haven't picked a clean canvas yet to start with, or maybe in the very very back of your head there is n/a mkIv with TT ecu mod since you can mod one with your eyes closed
I think i figured most of it out. My wide band needs a second to like wake up and sense normal air before i start the car. If i turn my ignition on for like 10 seconds before turning the car on all the air fuels are perfect from start up at 11-12 and it slowly rises as it warms
yeah that sounds about right, as I said you had pretty normal sounding afr's. these ecu's aren't always perfect at idle but they get with the program as soon as you blip the throttle generally.
Originally Posted by LEXXIUM
i was about to say, as much stuff you know about these cars and all the lusting you have in you heart for one I'm surprised you haven't picked a clean canvas yet to start with, or maybe in the very very back of your head there is n/a mkIv with TT ecu mod since you can mod one with your eyes closed
I thought about a mk4 but they are pretty overpriced nowadays, if I find a good deal we will see.
probably wait for a clean sc300 or 400 though, I thought I wanted to build a 1uz but its so easy to squeeze horsepower out of a 2J I can't decide.
My complex told me I have to park my 3rd car somewhere else lol, haters... so I need to figure out that whole situation first.
I still get tempted at the thought of having a 1jz vvti toyota 4x4 pickup, but with having the GX its a little redundant.
03-09-17, 10:31 AM
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