Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

you 440's might be flowing a bit more or the turbo a bit less than others. probably just need a piggyback to correct the afr's you will pick up power in the 11 afr range and less carbon buildup. gap at .032+ with coilpacks. timing i wouldn't worry about as much as fuel with this ecu anyways.

Studiogeek

iTrader: (6)

Damnnnnnnn Dude, miss your modding...

Thanks for still stopping in to check on us!

SG

187

I have the 550's for usdm and I'm not running alot of boost so they have alot of room to start dumping fuel. I recheck the timing and somehow I was at 11 . No idea how it got set that high as I've never had it over 10 even in testing. I brought it back down to ~6 for now to retest.

Also the vpc has some tuning for across the rev range that I could adjust if you think its worth testing.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

you will need to adjust the higher ranges with a 10 afr. lowering timing generally makes it go richer. try 8 degrees and pull some fuel up top. youe 550's could be flowing more than factory ones do. a manual boost controller helps transition afr's also cause it prevents boost creep, even if you dont raise the boost I always install one.
no boost creep = faster spool, more power, and will use some of that fuel.

when you reach your max boost amount and its still 10:0 then you need to adjust the tune, you can try moving the whole tune (all ranges by same amount) or just the spot with the issue a little bit.

Studio, I don't miss it.. lol. the forum will be fine.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

and the discrepancy in timing might be due to setting it in different engine temps. final setting should be done on a fully warmed up engine. na-t tends to vary a few degrees here and there due to being run off timing belt/cam, si I like the 8 degree range myself. cant remember if you did tt gasket or not.

hows it running these days on the US ecu other than the rich in boost issue?

Reyke

Been hacking away at my 94, didn't mean to throw everything including the kitchen sink at the car but I did.

Did:
Na-t
FFIM
Q45 tb
Denso pump
Is300 radiator fans

The tt ECU mod was a milestone for me I made two mistakes I got the wiring for the 12volt into the igniter wrong, so it didn't do anything but crank. Fixed it them it would start then sputter, started to get frustrated but started doing more research and found that I needed to do the 12 volt mod for the fuel pump. And now the car starts and runs like it did before. Thanks Ali, hipsi, and quiksc4. I can now conclude the power plant and start enjoying it. Pictures to follow.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

yeah once you get started its hard to stop throwing more goodies on there

yeah with a denso pump its almost a requirement to do 12v fuel mod or use a supra tt fuel ecu in place of the stock one. stock fuel ecu can't handle the load. glad you figured it out definately post some pics and impressions when you get seat time.

I think its the first thing quicksc4 does to his SC's so many of the fuel ecu's have failures at some point, but I like to keep it if its working, with a walboro it seems to work for me.

187

The usdm has been great other than at wot, and some other quirks. I'm still running the stock head gasket, I don't really think I would ever do it unless it blows or I get a built trans. I do have a manual boost controller in there now I tried to set it at 10 but I think its closer to 8 psi. I can't be sure until I'm in the 11-12 range up top.

I think the vpc will only allow me to pull across the full range to effect the top end. I'm not 100% confident in playing around with the vpc but at this point I don't think I can hurt it. Most of the guys don't touch it at all. It is certainly a unique relationship between the obd2 vs vpc fueiling because of how the usdm "corrects" after an adjustment at the vpc.

Reyke

So like an impatient child I ignored the dry erase board of to do's and proceeded to drive the car without bleeding the brakes. Lol so in like minded stubborn fashion I checked my emergency brake to make sure it worked and took it for a very short trip. Backing out was a nice dance of maintaining idle since I have no IAC (to be addressed soon) and e braking. Oh yeah that differential swap I told you about yeah I think I got a bit too aggressive with the preload I can feel the car drag in sharp turns good thing it doesn't skip and scrub the tires, might remove some shims.

Got no further than past my house and the car dies and doesn't want to start. Let it sit moved some cars around went back and now it wants to start. I think I may need to get more gas. Also the no idle air control is not for me, I'm taking my intake manifold back off and am going to have the ffim plenum welded on as well as machine a cup to install the sc300 iac and elbow on the charge pipe, I thought I could deal with it but "winter is coming" and I'd rather not fight the car in the cold.



Side note my wife was sending me multiple loving texts regarding the 3.5" straight exhaust at 10:30 pm

HiPSI

iTrader: (2)

Switching from AEM V2 to GTE ECU mod was night and day in overall satisfaction and driveability. I'm sure one day AEM or ProEFI is needed but honestly if you are at that point you are willing to trade off some driveability for higher power levels. I think this mod will support up to 600whp fine with an injector upgrade and mapecu, but the margin for error at WOT is higher, no real failsafes like in proefi.

I'm currently in the process of parting out my car due to saving for my wedding in 2016. I'm basically parting off appearance mods and retaining an OEM look and leaving the turbo / power mods for the ultimate grandpa sleeper mobile.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

187, adjusting the full range is usually what you do want to do, cause if its off there its off in other places just the fuel trims are correcting it for regular driving. you make a small adjustment for less fuel, and you must reset the ecu completely (pull EFI fuse or battery). then after it relearns see where you are at. you repeat this several times till you are good at WOT. regular driving the o2 will adjust, thats how its done. you cannot just adjust on the fly on jthese ecu's, although so many try and complain about it, it doesnt work that way turns out.

Reyke, brakes are good, cant miss that one when doing the LS or supra upgrade. with no IACV adjust the idle up a hair via the throttle body but the tps will need to be turned back the same amount (the whole jumper timing chech hearing the noise change thing on page 1). I found a 1100rpm warm idle, would onl;y be like 600rpm on a cold start but was a decent tradeoff for getting the car started, although 1100rpm idle is very annoying. They make a 2jzgte weld on flange and I use a sc400 IACV with the supra TT one way washer, works like factory and much cheaper and just has a filter hanging off of it, no welding to charge pipes or lines needed with a map sensor car (maf yes you need that unless you run a vpc).

funny on the exhaust, they get used to it, my wife drives my gx and its got a loud exhaust and can on the end of it. I would put the silencer in... but I can't bring myself to restrict it lol it wouldn't be performance

my final IACV setup


HiPSI, congrats and good choice on keeping the performance stuff, the looks can come later, I still haven't done a thing to mine appearanhce wise on the outside except for a half busted sc400 lip and supra tt wheels, but the wheels and 275 tires were more of a neccessity then looks. it will come in good time.

Please excuse my typing and shorter responses, I broke my hand this past weekend and am going at half speed... or less.
can't turn a wrench for 6-8 weeks... sort of like a small vacation lol.

Reyke

So finished all the items I had listed last night took the gas can down to the gas station and filled the tank to 1/4 a tank with 93 went to start it was great started driving down the street and it died again. Now I'm thinking WTF, push it back in front of my house. Turned off the lights then went to try and start it and boom it goes.

Long story short I found out that my voltage to my fuel pump is a paltry 11.5 volts out of the 13 supplied to the battery, but the issue lies that when I turn on the headlights I lose all voltage to the fuel pump...SMH. It sucks I have to be up at 445 because this **** is seriously bothering. Looks like wiring diagrams, power probe and multimeter, also I think I may run a larger gauge wire and do the fuel pump relay mod I really don't like that voltage drop. Plus while I was probing the fuel wiring I soldered together in the driver rear panel that wire felt a bit too warm.

I'll post up my problem and solution once I narrow it down.

HiPSI

iTrader: (2)

I'm assuming it's an upgraded pump on the stock wiring? Definitely get that changed as the amount of amperage those pumps require will overrun that stock wiring easily. Sounds like maybe some other wiring issues going on. Has the battery / alternator been replaced recently?

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

one car i think it was aswilley's 96 or 96 can't remember, wuld die when you turn the wheel after doind the mod, turned out some SC's have a switch on the rack and the gte ecu doesn't have that so it ends up doing something funny. the fix was do just disconnect the switch and it worked fine. there were some variations among years ang auto vs manual and trac vs non trac but thats the only one I know of for sure. 95 generally wont have those issues but see if its happening when you turn the wheel.

187

I some more wheel time in this morning, the problem seems to have gotten a little better. What I've noticed is that when you gently accelerate in gear it will go up and hover in the mid-low 11's which is good. However if you just stab the throttle it likes to peg 10.0 then try and pull back down towards 11.X . I'm going to keep putting some miles on like this and see if it makes a difference. Felt great pulling to 9PSI compared to 6.