2JZGE Na-T TT Ecu Mod
08-18-14, 09:08 AM
#1981
this is an obd2 usdm gte ecu right? Who talked about a spike at 4500. I thought there was a lean issue on the obd1 USDM gte ecu's in transition to the second turbo, but that was cured in obd2. either way it doesn't cause any issues both ecu's can make great power.
you can hit 42 degrees of timing you just have to be accelerating very slowly or cruising, 42 is about the max for an unloaded engine in the rpm ranges above 2k. if you went into boost it would drop down significantly under 20 I imagine mid teens. if you just hit the throttle enough to get near 0-1psi it would still try and hold the higher timing until it goes into boost I would imagine, I have not logged it thats just the way I have seen most maps tuned and the stock setup feels the same to me.
you can hit 42 degrees of timing you just have to be accelerating very slowly or cruising, 42 is about the max for an unloaded engine in the rpm ranges above 2k. if you went into boost it would drop down significantly under 20 I imagine mid teens. if you just hit the throttle enough to get near 0-1psi it would still try and hold the higher timing until it goes into boost I would imagine, I have not logged it thats just the way I have seen most maps tuned and the stock setup feels the same to me.
08-18-14, 03:49 PM
#1982
this is an obd2 usdm gte ecu right? Who talked about a spike at 4500. I thought there was a lean issue on the obd1 USDM gte ecu's in transition to the second turbo, but that was cured in obd2. either way it doesn't cause any issues both ecu's can make great power.
you can hit 42 degrees of timing you just have to be accelerating very slowly or cruising, 42 is about the max for an unloaded engine in the rpm ranges above 2k. if you went into boost it would drop down significantly under 20 I imagine mid teens. if you just hit the throttle enough to get near 0-1psi it would still try and hold the higher timing until it goes into boost I would imagine, I have not logged it thats just the way I have seen most maps tuned and the stock setup feels the same to me.
you can hit 42 degrees of timing you just have to be accelerating very slowly or cruising, 42 is about the max for an unloaded engine in the rpm ranges above 2k. if you went into boost it would drop down significantly under 20 I imagine mid teens. if you just hit the throttle enough to get near 0-1psi it would still try and hold the higher timing until it goes into boost I would imagine, I have not logged it thats just the way I have seen most maps tuned and the stock setup feels the same to me.
At least I know what it should be doing later based on your above post. thanks.
08-18-14, 04:05 PM
#1983
alot of na-t people are mostly guessing at what the stock ecu does. my understanding is for everyone it does freak out somewhere and depending on obd1 or obd2 it will do it in different ways and whatnot.
do you have the turbo on yet? they are probably saying it jumps up alot because of the turbo is going to affect how it reads alot.
the 3" and the 3.25" maf could make a small difference or a large difference hard to say. you should use the gte maf if possible but the stock one may be worth a try. the aft and timing will change though because a smaller maf is going to read a little more load than a larger maf.
do you have the turbo on yet? they are probably saying it jumps up alot because of the turbo is going to affect how it reads alot.
the 3" and the 3.25" maf could make a small difference or a large difference hard to say. you should use the gte maf if possible but the stock one may be worth a try. the aft and timing will change though because a smaller maf is going to read a little more load than a larger maf.
08-18-14, 05:49 PM
#1984
Yeah im curious about the maf so im sure i'll test it down the line. Right now I just finished getting the list of odds and ends together. Clutch is coming out on saturday and while the pp is out and back stuff will be rolling in.
I'm basically planning on doing the whole thing in a weekend, which should be easy witch the clutch job done beforehand. I was considering wiring in the new ecu, but didn't want to do anything without a way to monitor the afr's
I'm basically planning on doing the whole thing in a weekend, which should be easy witch the clutch job done beforehand. I was considering wiring in the new ecu, but didn't want to do anything without a way to monitor the afr's
08-19-14, 12:12 PM
#1986
Lead Lap
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OK, cant be more thankful to Ali for starting and updating this thread. Did this conversion on my JDM GE to JDM GTE ecu and its running PERFECT with 680cc injectors and piggyback fuel controller.
Just one issue, my auto trans. I want to wire in a TT auto trans. can anyone direct me to a diagram that points out the different locations for the pinouts of the transmissions on the GE vs GTE harness?
Just one issue, my auto trans. I want to wire in a TT auto trans. can anyone direct me to a diagram that points out the different locations for the pinouts of the transmissions on the GE vs GTE harness?
08-19-14, 01:05 PM
#1987
yes the first place I go for pinouts is this site that has a JDM gte pinout here (aristo)
http://wilbo666.pbworks.com/w/page/3...ngine%20Wiring
and a JDM GE pinout here (supra)
http://wilbo666.pbworks.com/w/page/4...0JZA80%20Supra
you will find on there the ecu pinouts where the signals come from for the transmission and they do a good job of explaining which ones need what type of signal. you can compare this to the GE one to see differences, there are only a handfull of them.
for the connectors they have some of the connectors on the car listed further down if you keep scrolling. I just did and didn't see the auro plugs but maybe its around somewhere. Just compare them from both pinouts to see what you need to add. if you can get your hands on a spare gte harness then you can just examine it or borrow the wires and plugs from that.
Its even possible that newer cars share some of the plugs and stuff with the gte trans but I am not sure on that, if there are ones that do you could borrow the plugs and wiring from that harness as well. I am thinking maybe the ones that come on vvti 2jzge's but I honestly have no idea if they are similar or not just something I would check if I had an is300 harness laying around, which I do not.
Im really not an auto guy and I don't own one anymore so I am really of no help in doing a writeup on specifically what wires go where, but I can help you guys find it on the diagrams.
http://wilbo666.pbworks.com/w/page/3...ngine%20Wiring
and a JDM GE pinout here (supra)
http://wilbo666.pbworks.com/w/page/4...0JZA80%20Supra
you will find on there the ecu pinouts where the signals come from for the transmission and they do a good job of explaining which ones need what type of signal. you can compare this to the GE one to see differences, there are only a handfull of them.
for the connectors they have some of the connectors on the car listed further down if you keep scrolling. I just did and didn't see the auro plugs but maybe its around somewhere. Just compare them from both pinouts to see what you need to add. if you can get your hands on a spare gte harness then you can just examine it or borrow the wires and plugs from that.
Its even possible that newer cars share some of the plugs and stuff with the gte trans but I am not sure on that, if there are ones that do you could borrow the plugs and wiring from that harness as well. I am thinking maybe the ones that come on vvti 2jzge's but I honestly have no idea if they are similar or not just something I would check if I had an is300 harness laying around, which I do not.
Im really not an auto guy and I don't own one anymore so I am really of no help in doing a writeup on specifically what wires go where, but I can help you guys find it on the diagrams.
08-20-14, 07:50 AM
#1988
Hey guys! Its been awhile but lately I have been finishing up my build.
Right now:
-JZS147 ECU (I had just recapped with nichicon 105c caps)
-GE 305cc injectors
-AEM Wideband
-AEM FI/C
-USDM MAP Sensor
-2zz coil packs
-USDM GTE FFIM Upper on GE lower
I replaced the caps in the ecu even though none of them were leaking, so the board is still good.
Sometimes it wants to start, sometimes no dice.
Sometimes it starts, but has no throttle based rpm change
Sometimes it starts and runs like in this video:
Any ideas? Maybe the ECU is bad despite the cap replacement?
Maybe when I plug in the FIC it fouls the plugs since I have the correction of fuel for the 440cc ecu on 305cc injectors?
Right now:
-JZS147 ECU (I had just recapped with nichicon 105c caps)
-GE 305cc injectors
-AEM Wideband
-AEM FI/C
-USDM MAP Sensor
-2zz coil packs
-USDM GTE FFIM Upper on GE lower
I replaced the caps in the ecu even though none of them were leaking, so the board is still good.
Sometimes it wants to start, sometimes no dice.
Sometimes it starts, but has no throttle based rpm change
Sometimes it starts and runs like in this video:
Any ideas? Maybe the ECU is bad despite the cap replacement?
Maybe when I plug in the FIC it fouls the plugs since I have the correction of fuel for the 440cc ecu on 305cc injectors?
Last edited by spoolxexo; 08-20-14 at 08:30 AM.
08-20-14, 09:04 PM
#1991
Lexus Test Driver
hey guys, so my car has still not been running right, even after redoing all the plugs, checking the coilpacks, replacing every single vaccum line, and it still gives me a random misfire and a misfire on 5 seperate cylinders. I had my mechanic check it out and according to him, he found out my timing is advanced quite a bit. He adjusted it all the way and now it's closer to base which is 10° but it's still high fluctuating between 12.5° and 15°, runs a lil different and the light hasn't come back yet but to get the timing were it needs to be he claims I'm gonna need a tune. He will do some more investigating tomorrow and see if the light comes back on as well as any issues while under load.
So my question is, what do you set your timing to when using the USDM OBDII TT ecu?
So my question is, what do you set your timing to when using the USDM OBDII TT ecu?
08-21-14, 06:22 AM
#1992
hey guys, so my car has still not been running right, even after redoing all the plugs, checking the coilpacks, replacing every single vaccum line, and it still gives me a random misfire and a misfire on 5 seperate cylinders. I had my mechanic check it out and according to him, he found out my timing is advanced quite a bit. He adjusted it all the way and now it's closer to base which is 10° but it's still high fluctuating between 12.5° and 15°, runs a lil different and the light hasn't come back yet but to get the timing were it needs to be he claims I'm gonna need a tune. He will do some more investigating tomorrow and see if the light comes back on as well as any issues while under load.
So my question is, what do you set your timing to when using the USDM OBDII TT ecu?
So my question is, what do you set your timing to when using the USDM OBDII TT ecu?
I'm assuming your mechanic knows this? If not I would consider getting a new mechanic. No you don't need a tune, the stock ecu will fluctuate timing at idle as most vehicles do when it isn't locked to set it. If you've been running super high timing this whole time then it's a good thing you caught it as you were probably detonating pretty bad at WOT.
Borrow someones timing light, or buy one. Idle the car up to operating temperature. Jump the terminal, there is an audible change in RPM you will here when the ecu switches over into locked timing. If you don't hear this audible switch over when you jump timing your TPS isn't set properly and needs to be adjusted to the proper voltage (I believe its around .65 volts).
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...djustment.html
Once this is set, and the ecu switches and base timing is locked. Attach your timing light to power on the battery and use the clamp to read the timing from the #1 spark plug wire, just attach it over the wire.
Now hold the button on the timing light and fire it directly at the crank pulley and you should see a non fluctuating white line that is visible on the pulley. This light should be at exactly 10 if not slightly to the right of 10 (below 10, 7-8 deg) base timing. If this is correct then don't mess with the distributor, your done. If it's too low or high take a 12mm wrench, loosen the distributor nut securing the setting and slowly twist the distributor while watching the timing change on the crank pulley. Pull it back into spec and tighten down the distributor set nut
.
I hope this helps, and you may or may not know how to this already but judging by your post I don't think you have done it before.
08-21-14, 01:15 PM
#1993
Lexus Test Driver
The timing will fluctuate at idle when it isn't locked. To lock timing, and set it properly you have to jump the TE1 and E1 terminals using a wire or paper clip in the diagnostic box in the engine bay. On the stock GE this terminal is mounted on the upper intake manifold in front of the power steering reservoir. If this isn't locked and jumped the timing cannot be set properly as it will fluctuate.
I'm assuming your mechanic knows this? If not I would consider getting a new mechanic. No you don't need a tune, the stock ecu will fluctuate timing at idle as most vehicles do when it isn't locked to set it. If you've been running super high timing this whole time then it's a good thing you caught it as you were probably detonating pretty bad at WOT.
Borrow someones timing light, or buy one. Idle the car up to operating temperature. Jump the terminal, there is an audible change in RPM you will here when the ecu switches over into locked timing. If you don't hear this audible switch over when you jump timing your TPS isn't set properly and needs to be adjusted to the proper voltage (I believe its around .65 volts).
Lexus IS300 Throttle Position Sensor Adjustment - YouTube
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...djustment.html
Once this is set, and the ecu switches and base timing is locked. Attach your timing light to power on the battery and use the clamp to read the timing from the #1 spark plug wire, just attach it over the wire.
Now hold the button on the timing light and fire it directly at the crank pulley and you should see a non fluctuating white line that is visible on the pulley. This light should be at exactly 10 if not slightly to the right of 10 (below 10, 7-8 deg) base timing. If this is correct then don't mess with the distributor, your done. If it's too low or high take a 12mm wrench, loosen the distributor nut securing the setting and slowly twist the distributor while watching the timing change on the crank pulley. Pull it back into spec and tighten down the distributor set nut.
I hope this helps, and you may or may not know how to this already but judging by your post I don't think you have done it before.
I'm assuming your mechanic knows this? If not I would consider getting a new mechanic. No you don't need a tune, the stock ecu will fluctuate timing at idle as most vehicles do when it isn't locked to set it. If you've been running super high timing this whole time then it's a good thing you caught it as you were probably detonating pretty bad at WOT.
Borrow someones timing light, or buy one. Idle the car up to operating temperature. Jump the terminal, there is an audible change in RPM you will here when the ecu switches over into locked timing. If you don't hear this audible switch over when you jump timing your TPS isn't set properly and needs to be adjusted to the proper voltage (I believe its around .65 volts).
Lexus IS300 Throttle Position Sensor Adjustment - YouTube
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...djustment.html
Once this is set, and the ecu switches and base timing is locked. Attach your timing light to power on the battery and use the clamp to read the timing from the #1 spark plug wire, just attach it over the wire.
Now hold the button on the timing light and fire it directly at the crank pulley and you should see a non fluctuating white line that is visible on the pulley. This light should be at exactly 10 if not slightly to the right of 10 (below 10, 7-8 deg) base timing. If this is correct then don't mess with the distributor, your done. If it's too low or high take a 12mm wrench, loosen the distributor nut securing the setting and slowly twist the distributor while watching the timing change on the crank pulley. Pull it back into spec and tighten down the distributor set nut
.I hope this helps, and you may or may not know how to this already but judging by your post I don't think you have done it before.
08-26-14, 09:42 PM
#1994
If its 12-15 with the jumper in place and you heard the sound when the motor changed, then clearly your mechanic inserted the distributor 1 tooth off and now cannot get the timing lower than 12 because you can't turn it enough when its a tooth or 2 off.
also your mechanic at that point cant be trusted to actually listen for the change if they cannot set the timing right.
I recommend a new mechanic and to re-insert the distributor in the position that will let you set it to 8-10 degrees after hearing the change in it running when the jumper goes in.
driving around with a base timing of 12-15 is not a good idea unless you like to knock your motor. these things have to be done right you don't need a tune you need the distributor installed right and the timing set.
remember If you do not hear the sound change when the jumper goes in then you are not setting the timing right and the tps is likely the issue. if your mechanic is not doing this stuff then your car will likely not run right. I am pretty sure i have written out the procedure to check the timing several times now. this has to be set properly its not optional.
also your mechanic at that point cant be trusted to actually listen for the change if they cannot set the timing right.
I recommend a new mechanic and to re-insert the distributor in the position that will let you set it to 8-10 degrees after hearing the change in it running when the jumper goes in.
driving around with a base timing of 12-15 is not a good idea unless you like to knock your motor. these things have to be done right you don't need a tune you need the distributor installed right and the timing set.
remember If you do not hear the sound change when the jumper goes in then you are not setting the timing right and the tps is likely the issue. if your mechanic is not doing this stuff then your car will likely not run right. I am pretty sure i have written out the procedure to check the timing several times now. this has to be set properly its not optional.
09-01-14, 02:23 PM
#1995
Lexus Test Driver
ok, so the tps and timing are set as close to perfect as possible. However, I talked to the mechanic and had him drive it, and he says the idle is much better, there is no misfire, no CELs, only thing is at 4k when the boost really starts to kick in, the computer starts dumping fuel like its saving the motor from detonation. He says it runs great up until then but when it hits 4k it starts to break up and the boost is creeping and spiking and he thinks that has a alot to with the ecu pulling timing and throwing more gas but besides that, overall the car runs so much better than before and there is no CELs so only thing he can recommend is the 7mgte cam angle and piggy back to pull back on the fuel past 4k cause from what he was reading alot of folks that have this setup seem to benefit alot from the 7m cam angle, it speaks to the tt ecu better than the stock GE on i have.
This is the problem I have been having with the car the whole year, and just can't seem to figure out what the hell is going on that it hestitates so much going into boost. Literally everything has been checked, and re-checked, and the car still runs like crap
This is the problem I have been having with the car the whole year, and just can't seem to figure out what the hell is going on that it hestitates so much going into boost. Literally everything has been checked, and re-checked, and the car still runs like crap