Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

Hopefully that will take care of the remaining issues, or at least you will feel safer to take it for long distances so it car learn. odb2 might not even learn fully till its been running for a certain amount of time, at least I think now. Def something smarter about those ecu's.

Updated page 1, I think I know how to easily use the stock coil and distributor now without running any new wiring. this cuts down the TT ecu mod to about 1/4 of the time now as all you need to do is wire up a map sensor + IAT and then swap out the ignitors, no running ignitor wires, no coilpack wires, but you have to use the stock coil obviously. under 400hp stock coil is not that bad so there you guys have it its in post 4.

187

That sounds great for the people like me that want to start out with the stock hg and move up later.

HiPSI

iTrader: (2)

This seems simple enough and should allow for easier trouble shooting when messing with the wiring. Since getting the car back to running like stock I've avoided the mod in fear of making the car undriveable. If just using the DS62 and re-pinning the new connector to the stock setup is all thats needed, plus moving the pin 66 to 62 on the JDM ecu, that simplifies the swap entirely.

You mention that this may not work though? Is that because the ecu might be looking for 3 separate signals and it only has one?

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

Yeah it makes it alot simpler, hardest part if keeping the stock coil is installing the injectors, but I venture to say you could probably start and drive the aristo ecu on the stock injectors, but boosting might be a bit risky to be honest, so I would still do the 440's at the least.

I did forget that you would still need to put 5 extra pins in the ecu and connect them to the stock IGT wire already going to the stock ignitor, but no running the 2 new wires to the engine bay with this way and no running the coilpack harness to the coils, and you can easily remove those 5 pins and the one splice later down the road.

I only say it might not work, because I haven't done it yet, but I have enough understanding of it know to know it should work just fine. Before I was concerned about the ignitor only using 1 of its 3 channels, as in would it care the other 2 channels are not used, and on supraforums I was helping in the n/a section and a guy named Na-t pete in australia just posted he had the n/a ecu running the stock coil with a gte ignitor using 1 channel, so that pretty much confirmed for me the ignitors do not care if you do not use all 6 channels.
check it out here:
http://www.supraforums.com/forum/sho...anage-ultimate

apparently you can use a gte ignitor with the n/a ecu, but I couldn't get the ge ignitor to work with the gte ecu... hopefully I had the wiring right cause if it turns out you can use the n/a ignitor with the gte ecu I would be embarrassed a little bit, I can make mistakes though. you can always do the wiring at the ecu and try it with the stock ignitor, and if it doesn't run then just swap out for ds62 ignitor. I really don't want to put my distributor and n/a ignitor back in someone please test it when they do it, we will call it even.. lol.

so in our case GTE ecu gives out 6 IGT's > tie them to stock IGT wire already going to stock ignitor > use DS62 ignitor with just 1 of the 3 channels > stock coil is happy and ecu gets proper IGF so its happy. Everyone wins!!

HiPSI

iTrader: (2)

Oh okay so there is still 5 needed extra wires pinned off GTE ecu that need to be added at the ecu, and then these 5 wires are joined together and spliced into the 1 stock IGT signal wire? Whats the best method for combining all 5 wires and splicing cleanly? Just twist together, solder, and splice in?

I may be able to test this method for you, as I'm a prime candidate, obd1 and stock GE harness, stock distributor, and no turbo. I'm gonna try to run it on the stock injectors, and make sure it runs and idles, drives smooth before any boost is added to the mix. I'm sure it will idle initially lean but it should richen up over time as it learns.

Is a wired in heated o2 sensor needed? I've just got the stock o2 sensor but I remember reading that a wired in heated o2 will allow the ecu to fine adjust the tune faster. Is this complicated to add in to my setup?

Thanks again!

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

Yes, 5 spare pins/wires will be placed into the spots on your ecu connector that currently have nothing in them.
I usually do a combination of splice and solder. I don't use tap in connectors or any of that stuff ever. A good crimp is always preferred in the engine bay, but most just solder. In the cab soldering is fine. when splicing I like to wrap one wire around the other physically tight and then solder.

Easiest way I can think of is to solder the 5 wires together along with a small jumper wire and then jump that to the stock IGT wire. I typically use a small blade to remove the insulation around the stock wire without cutting the wire, maybe like an inch or so enough to wrap a good amount of the jumper around the stock wire. That connection might be ok but I would go the extra step of soldering that jumper wire that is now wrapped around the stock wire, just let the iron heat up to max and hold it there and enough solder to make them stick. that way you only have to do 1 soldering job in the car to minimize any accidents and wont have a bad connection later on. and if you wanted to undo it you can just cut off the jumper wire or unsolder it.

Yeah that would be awesome if you can test it and give some feeback. Without the turbo it should be safe to test it on the stock injectors, make sure you have the stock o2 in at least. you do not need the heated o2 sensor but without a turbo it will take a few minutes to start heating up and learning the first few starts. after the first few starts it sort of stores the basic adjustment at least it seems like that to my car.
As rich as my ecu runs with 440's before learning, maybe your 330's will run right on or a touch lean before learning... either way the o2 will correct but how much in Wide open throttle not sure how perfect so do keep in mind you will need 440's eventually with this mod.
If you had a wideband and I recommend one anytime you don't use the right injectors those numbers would surely be interesting as well.

spoolxexo

iTrader: (4)

Hey Ali,

I finished the ECU mod but it stopped running today. Here's a rundown:

-JZS147 440cc Hi imp ECU

-Stock 330cc Hi imp Injectors

-AEM FIC 6 With injector compensation (Roughly +15%)


It ran fine, added some power steering fluid and as I was turning the wheel to bleed, it bogged down, then stopped.

I tried to start it back up with a few pops here and there but didn't get running.

Then I removed the FIC with the bypass harness, and no pops. Sort of like the FIC was the only thing giving the car fuel pulse.

Did I burn the injector drivers out, I though that the 330cc and 440cc were both hi-imp injectors?

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

do you have the wideband in? both are high impedance shouldn't be an issue but maybe the Fic did something to it somehow. likely the fuel is just off. I would wait till its cold again and see if it will start up then. push the pedal just a touch and see if it will fire off. sometimes with the fuel being so off they will run a little while cold and then the ecu trys to go into the warm mode and it will just fall on its face. If the afr's were good then I dunno maybe the ecu, try it again when cold. sometimes they don't act up till they are warm.

I still really recommend dropping in 440's. with it at 15% you are increasing the timing also and likely it will detonate in boost unless you dial back the timing, even then its risky to up the fuel via a piggyback without increasing injector size. the ecu is supossed to handle up to a 20% injector size via o2 but usually its in the other direction.

spoolxexo

iTrader: (4)

Thanks Ali,

I will upgrade injectors when I actually boost it, haha!

I did thorough diagnosis and I came to the conclusion...

CHECK THE GAS, DUMMY!

This will be #2 where I freak out when the car stops, only to discover it has no gas..

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

haha that is pretty funny. that will make it pop for a bit for sure. you should just try it without the FIC in and see how it does, you know, after you put gas in it =) If you aren't turbo yet it should be ok maybe, see if the ecu will do the 15% correction its better than doing it via the FIC when adding more fuel.

HiPSI

iTrader: (2)

It runs! Initially I had the igniter wiring incorrect and it wouldn't fire. Re-checked the colors and adjusted accordingly and it fired first try, no check engine lights, and the A/C works! I have a 6spd ECU though so I had my fingers crossed this would work.

My car is a 1994, OBD1, and pretty much a completely stock GE motor aside for I switched it out to a GTE HG.

The current setup I'm using is a:
JDM 6SPD ecu
DS62 ignitor
Stock toyota map sensor
AEM IAT sensor
Stock 330cc injectors
Stock distributor and coil
Stock intake manifold
Non-Turbo

I used a jumper wire like Ali described combining all 5 wires from the GTE ecu, I pinned 5 wires, combined them into one by soldering, and then jumped them to the stock IGT wire.

I moved the B66 pin, to B62 as described. I also unpinned the maf pins and moved them over accordingly for the MAP sensor and IAT sensor. I moved the coil 1 connection on the stock ignitor to coil 1 on the DS62 ignitor.


Now I reset the timing to 10deg base after it warmed up (It was advanced quite a bit). It idles very lean like when the AEM wideband is on it shows "- -" now that its warmed up. Initially when I cold started it, the ECU added fuel in the 15.XX range but now its very lean. You mentioned that the ecu may learn and adjust to this?

Also my idle seems very low, like 400-500rpm range, what method would you recommend to bump the base idle up? Should I adjust the TPS till it's happy? Or the idle set screw?

Thanks in advance,

Andrew

EDIT: Connected the intake butterfly valve to a vacuum source and slightly adjusted the TPS and its now idling at around 1k rpms without any surging. The A/F now is in the mid 15.XX range.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

Thats awesome, thanks for sharing that, cuts down on the mod quite a bit really.
It seems like that is pretty lean but if it went to 15 after a while at idle then I think the o2 is working and its close but not perfect, mine fluctuates between 14.5 and 15.5 or so. I would imagine that when you step on it it will go lean, even wihtout a turbo as the correction turns off under rapid throttle changes I want to say. if you press on the gas and it swings to 17 and then settles to 15 while you hold it, then that is bad. it should swing to 12-13 and then settle to 15 as you hold it.
let me know which one its doing.

The best part is you have verified using the ds62 in one channel only which is purely awesome so thanks for that. I think you are just 440cc injectors away from it being perfect on the stock coil.

idle I did have to turn my screw in on the throttle body a little more, but the ecu tends to learn and wants to sort of idle around 600-700 rpm's for me still, its normal. when you turn the a/c on it should jump up to a comfortable 8-900. If you turn in the throttle screw enough it wont be able to idle down that far via the IAC and you can raise the idle that way, but it may act a little funny at times being that high of an idle, not a huge deal though but if you go too high on the idle it won't enter closed loop properly. You don;t want your warm idle to be over 1000 rpms or you can have some of those issues. 900 and under its pretty happy I find but I have gotten used to it sitting at 600 rpm's. it saves gas and I just have to get on it a little bit more from a stop, which is not a problem I have to do that for my 6 puck anyways.

I am gonna guess you are using the supra ecu, do you know if the a/c works on that ecu or do you have to do the fix like the aristo?

HiPSI

iTrader: (2)

It's definitely running leaner than it should. The car is driveable but it feels under powered. It stays within 16-17.XX A/F for most of the time driving. When I apply WOT throttle it just goes lean and the car feels like it pulls back so it's definitely not able to add fuel properly. If I press the gas it goes lean and then settles to 16-17ish. I have noticed how solid the A/F is, it seems to be stabilizing the fuel very well its not all over the place hunting.

I do have some 550cc injectors here from osidetiger but i'm really not wanting to use the Apexi NEO I have to adjust it. I do like that they are plug and play fitment and wiring.

There were some 440cc injectors I was linking to several pages back, would these work as high imp 440's, and would they fit the stock OBD1 fuel rail and intake runner?

These would have to be wired in, they aren't plug and play.
On post #1429 I mentioned these injectors;


Warm start up is very lean, it wants to idle low and die immediately. I can give it some gas and it will settle but the ecu doesn't like the small injectors.

Warm idle is now at around 700-800. I did have a moment while driving where the idle RPM dropped considerably to 300-400rpm so I pulled over. I popped the vacuum line and the idle bumped back up, plugged it back in and it was fine. Not sure what happened there.

This is the JDM 6spd supra ecu, I'm not getting any check engine light and the A/C works without any modification needed.

By the way throughout all my modding with this car I replaced the stock wiring harness so I have a full spare harness here to pull ECU pins out to use for this mod. I think this simplified the mod tremendously for me as it was literally a de-pin, re-pin process. I didn't cut any wires I made sure to just unpin it properly and repin it.

The maf wires I un-pinned, and moved over to the MAP sensor harness connection, and I just pinned them into the right spots, it fits the housing connector perfectly.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

Yeah those 330's are a bust, I wouldn't drive it that lean to be honest, its not good in the long run. I would throw those 550's in there, the gte ecu will have a better time dealing with those, as when you tap it it will be rich instead of lean so no holding back feeling, and it will pull the extra fuel when it starts correcting. richer is better than lean always.

for those 440's I think that is basically what I am using right now, you have to wire in EV1 injector clips, or get the adapters from "Bosch" (stock oval clips) to "EV1" (widely use square clips). the adapters make it plug and play but a little pricey.

yeah warm start up I hit 16-1 on mine for about 20-30 seconds and then it corrects to 14.8, I can only imagine yours is going lean enough to shut off the motor.

the idle is tricky, there is a spot where it will hold it before correction, and after driving a bit when the ecu feels its ready and warmed up it will want to slowly drop after driving down to the 5-600 range in my experience. if you popped a vac line you threw off its calculations so it probalby went back to general idle. I would not be surprised if it tried to idle down on you again. sometimes turning the a/c on helps with that.

Thats awesome also that the a/c works with the supra ecu, may have to find one of those myself so I can undo the relay in there and have a 6 speed ecu instead of the aristo auto. sounds nice.

You did it the right way by depinning and pinning using the stock stuff, its really the best way to do it. I didn't have the map sensor connector at the time I was using an aem one so I cut them off but yeah with the toyota map sensor connector its just a matter of repinning the connector on odb1. the IAT mostly though no one uses the gte IAT unless you can get a hold of one, so those are ok to cut but I am sure you could probably just find some toyota connector with a 2 pin male and female so you don't have to cut those either.

dawhorl21

i love that i get coil packs but so much wiring