spoolxexo

iTrader: (4)

You have faulty shift solenoids, as I have mentioned earlier. You'll learn I can be a helpful member, if people actually read my posts!

BuffNStuff

Sorry! I read your posts I promise. I knew the definitions of the codes already, I just don't know what to do with them. ALI mentioned he posted a fix for the converter lock up, but I must have missed it. I'll look for it when I get off work. Will these "FIXES" actually restore normal function to the transmission, or am I just doing this to trick the ECU into getting rid of the 2 CELs?

spoolxexo

iTrader: (4)

Unfortunately, its really common.

There are three solenoids, and can be accessed from the transmission pan.

s1 on = 1st, s2 on = 2ns, s1 and s2 on = 3rd, s1 and s2 off = od, and one additional solenoid for the converter lockup.

You can get the set for $90 on ebay however, so its not that bad.

BuffNStuff

I am like 99% confident the solenoids I have are not bad. This car only has 50k miles on it and there were literally ZERO issues with this car when I started this project. Believe me, this car is about as clean and unabused as an Sc300 can be. I believe the issue is that the supra uses a different method of controlling the transmission, and the ECU is not seeing the data it wants to see from the sc300 transmission. I honestly wish the issue was that they are just bad. That would make it all straightforward and simple. Good looking out though! I appreciate the input. I need all the help I can get.

Also, my surging is back with the lean idle. I have fiddled with it for hours and I can't get it to idle correctly. I checked for vacuum leaks with a can of carb spray, and found nothing. I sprayed some directly into a vacuum line just to make sure I knew what to listen for (revs higher for a second) and yet I don't see any leaks, including the valve cover gaskets, throttle body gaskes, and intake manifold.
Here is exactly what happens:

Cold start- starts up perfectly, hovers around 1100rpm with perfect af ratio, then it starts to idle down very slowly in stages. Like drops 50rpm every 5 or 10 seconds. After about 45 seconds of the idle slowly falling, it gets to a point where it all of a sudden decides to surge drastically. It goes up to about 1500rpm, down to about 350rpm where it feels like it's gonna stall but it catches itself. To stabilize this I turn on the ac. The Surging stops but af ratio is lean, then I take the transmission out of park and into reverse. This is when the engine runs perfect. Good af ratio, no surging. Just sits at about 800rpm and purrs. After the car is fully warmed up, there is no more surging if I turn off the ac and put it in park, it just runs REALLY lean. Like maxed out my af Guage lean (above 18:1) If I adjust the idle screw while running, lowing the idle makes it run more lean, raising the idle makes it run more rich, but even when the car is idling at 900rpm in park with ac off, the af ratio is still at around 17:1.

Also, I mentioned in an earlier post that unplugging the IACV will stop the surging, but the idle was very high. Steady, but high.

It just seems like there is something I am missing. Nearly everything I have read across the Internet seems to blame the iacv for idle surging.

BuffNStuff

After some diligent searching for any other differences in the tt and sc obdII harnesses, I found a difference in the Idle air control valve/EFI/Main relay wiring. It seems M-REL is used for the IACV so that the ECU knows what position the valve is in when the car is shut off so that it can put the valve in the correct position for when you restart the engine. So it seems to me that if M-REL is not correctly wired up to the EFI relay and then to the IACV, the ECU will be confused and will opporate the IACV in all sorts of weird ways.

Can you confirm this ALI?

spoolxexo

iTrader: (4)

In that case my mistake!

I always assume its a obd1 car with an aristo ecu.

Your pins must be switch to the shift solenoids.

If the car is in that good of shape, you are probably getting the CEL since technically the soldenoids are "Shorted" in the ECUs mind being in the wrong pin..

In my own news, I am currently doing another JZS147 ECU, 2zz COP conversion, GTE FFIM, Shortened GE P/S Res conversion,

I am also wiring in an AEM FIC6 to do timing and fuel. I have a bare GTE Cylinder head I am building, and the timing control will be crutial when I lose the distributor.

BuffNStuff

Cool man! Let us know how that turns out! Sounds fun

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

Looks like they fit the original orings on the new injectors? not really sure from the pic will have to play around with a set when I get one on the newer style lower runners.
plugs the bke6eix should be fine, I would have left them at .032-.043 but its close enough I guess.

P1760 is the line pressure control, we all knew you would get that code, it is not on the transmission this one we have to trick, but it won't hurt anything its just tricking the ecu, the transmission still has line pressure control via a mechanical cable on the stock throttle body.

P1765 is showing up as the same line pressure thing for me, perhaps these 2 codes are related.

on odb1 there is another code you get, line pressure as above and torque converter lockup, and sometimes its not that the solenoid is bad, its that each ones gets power and ground, and one of those power or ground will run to the ecu to be turned on and off. between the ge and gte ecu sometimes instead of power going to ecu it will be ground, and its a matter of re-wiring them correctly for the torque converter lockup but I am not sure this is the case for the odb2, since you are not getting that code I would guess that one is wired correctly.

sounds like we just need to fix the line pressure one, I will check the diagrams for that.

Yeah if the ecu has a tacho output I would try it. sometimes they do because they run the wire from there instead of the ignitor itself, I know the 1mz harnesses are like that if you get the 6 channel ignitor from those you might notice the tacho pin on the ignitor does not have a pin in it already. worth a try if not try the IGF I talked about I am hopeful* it will work tying all 6 IGF's together and tapping the tacho into that. no reason to keep the GTE ignitor too redundant in that case.

I looked at those diagrams and I don't see any difference in wiring. both Have a M-relay and they are almost universal across all toyota EFI systems of that generation in how they operate. ITs wired through the Mrelay controlled by the ecu so the ecu can keep power to the EFI circuit so the IACV can set position for next startup. It sounds like yours is starting up fine so I wouldn't suspect that. IF it sputters to start and needs throttle modulation and barely starts, COR and M-relay would be the places you would look then. Since your problem is happening while running its something else that is escaping me, I have had those symptoms before I am just not sure what cleared it up thought it was the tps.
Try unplugging the iacv connector and look for hairline cracks, they may be hard to spot initially. a loose connector will wreak havoc on those and they usually crack when you take them off if you are not super careful because they get brittle from the exhaust heat.

I think that is the case for odb1 on the toque converter lockup code, the pins are switched as in ecu is getting the wrong one of the 2 wires. I told Sj408 about it he was going to try the fix on his he is odb1 and auto.

good luck on the new conversion, I just had my 1mz vvti open and had the internally ignited coils sitting in my spare 2jz, they looked good but a little tall, def need a FFIM like the 1zz/2zz. I suggest going for the PNT intake or even the bolt on XS power instead of messing with the gte stuff. Usually looks better and works better in the end but I have to appreciate your persistence in making it work. I kind of like the PNT one more and more cause it curves around the stock power steering reservoir and they make the runners with the velocity stacks. there is one for sale on SF right now in the classifieds.

Also Vrank confirmed the IGF simulator circuit posted online works, he did it on his 1jz. so If you can drive the tach off of IGF then an IGF sim would help in that case of getting tach, and then you can even have it with the non toyota coils, but some testing is needed for sure.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

code 1760
http://tacoma.site40.net/4Runner_96-...at/cip1760.pdf

code 1765
showing similar stuff saying resistance between 2 pins should be around 5 ohms


This may just be another resistor scenario between 12v and ground that will give that resistance above.
you might even be able to use a small light bulb for this one seeing as the resistance is low or a large resistor with a heat sink as the heat may be decent when ecu turns it on.

sj408

iTrader: (6)

So i took off my pan last night to find the Lockup solenoid which the ground needs power ran to and it seems all the solenoids are 1 wire with the ground being the mounting bolt.

Anyone have any ideas on how to make our torque converter lockup work?

BuffNStuff

Between the two diagrams, m - rel does not go to the same pins in the EFI relay. One diagram has it going to the coil in the relay and the other has it going to the switch. It's like the pins are swapped.

BuffNStuff

Thanks I will look into these!

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

*edit* Well if its grounded externally, then the line going to the ecm is power, which is what the GE diagram says.
are you sure you are looking at the lock up one and not the shift ones?

If that is the case and they are all like that then you will need the GTE solenoid as it has 2 wires coming off of it.
OR....

You could also use a simple relay, what you do is you take that wire coming from the gte ecu that is a ground now.
you connect the other post of the relay to 12v power, so when it sees the ground it will close the circuit.
Then for the other 2 posts you connect one to power and then you connect one to the sensor, so it will apply power to the sensor when the ecu grounds that pin, mimicking the GE ecu.

It is common to use a relay to switch between applying power or ground to a device, check online for more wiring info.
Edit* this is basically what the small relay for the a/c fix does. converts one to the other can't remember which way though for that one.
This would probably be the simplest fix unless the sensor is a direct swap, and you can also intercept the wires outside the trans pan then.


I think the first diagram is wrong to be honest. where it says comes from mrelay at the bottom and comes from battery, those should be switched. That diagram is wrong because if the coil side which is the trigger side of the relay was connected to the battery on one side and connected to ground on the other, it would be on all the time and then Mrelay would be applied via the switch to the IAC which doesn't make any sense.
Also, the Mrelay is usually Black yellow and the fused battery power is usually the black white which are labeled the same on both diagrams.
once you flip those texts that have been added in after, you see that they were wrong because when you flip them they are the exact same as the TT diagram, except on the coil side they have it flipped but its the exact same wiring.

Its supposed to be Mrelay comes from ECM, other side is connected to ground so as soon as long as it gets the Mrelay signal from ecm, it will close the switch side applying battery power to the IACV. its the same on all toyota's. that diagram is wrong.. lol.

I have mentioned it several times but I think you need to delete that line coming off of your IACV and going to the fuel rail. I don't know why you guys aren't listening to me I think that is a potential area to look into with all these unexplained idle problems, and I am not sure how the odb1 injectors are sealing on those odb2 rails, the o-rings should be different sizes from the ones you get online are all for odb1.
Try removing that large line coming off the IACV, CAP BOTH SIDES. one at the IAC, one at the rail. zip tie them make sure they don't leak. The gte does not have this so cap it off, maybe it will help with the hunting and the air fuel issues.

I can't confirm because I couldn't find the info but I think people using aftermarket injectors are probably using odb1 lower runners, because no one mentions the issue of the difference in injectors and orings and that line coming off the intake. I have an odb2 lower runner and it does not look like it takes the same injectors as the odb1 one so something is going on there.

BuffNStuff

Sorry I thought you meant if the injectors did not have a grommet between them and that rail, THEN we should try and delete that line to the IACV. I will try this when I get home. Do you still have this line intact?


Well, that's annoying if that diagram is wrong. I freaking paid for access to these diagrams. Wtf

SCereal

iTrader: (4)

Reading all these issue with the trans makes me really hope my 97 trans and wiring works with my JDM Aristo ECU. If not, I'll have to push up my timeline to swapping in the GTE trans...