Bdub215

iTrader: (1)

I think it's safe to say my days on the TT ECU are numbered. Jumped on the rollers and with a few changes over last year, I made 403/365 on 15 psi. Terrible AFR but no piggyback needed


191K mile GE
Unopened motor
Walbro 255
Oside tiger 440cc injectors
Stock IM/TB
Treadstone turbo manifold
S366 @ 14 & 15 psi for the dyno runs
JDM TT 6 speed ECU Freshly rebuilt
Southbend stage 3 clutch
Modified Tripod R154
8 degrees base timing
3.91 FD
10.3 AFR

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

Looks pretty good, with an AFR of 10.3 raise the boost up until its in the mid 11's (like 11.5) and see what power it puts down, maybe like 17-18 psi.
You can use a boost cut controller to avoid boost cut and raise the boost, or you could also run 550cc injectors and a piggyback which raises boost cut also and give you some more headroom.
A standalone is not a bad idea much above that, but seems you could turn it up some as is and still be good. running 10.3 alot will probably start building carbon deposits etc..

Bdub215

iTrader: (1)

I've got a V1 ready to go in. And I just bought a daily. So I'm gonna refresh the motor and change a few things and proceed with tuning. I spent ages going through the old threads finding the proper settings for that thing. I actually think I've got a fairly decent base cal to start with. Might upload that here soon.

As much as I'd like to add the boost cut controller, boost cut has saved my *** quite a bit. Speed cut can kiss my ***. But I have found a way to cheat that so I'm good

99SC42

iTrader: (44)

Do not use a 12V to turn the pump ON, it will drain your battery if you turn the key ON for a certain amount of time.

Best way to do it , is using the stock trigger at the relay to trigger it.

scsexy

iTrader: (1)

What do you mean the denso might be a bit much for the stock fuel ecu?. the fuel pump wouldnt run until i did the 12v mod. I have a fuel filter sitting in my box i should do it lol i just didnt think it would be a cause because it only happens when hot. like over an hour working hot.

davvv

iTrader: (1)

Almost there! My iacv was leaking big time. Turns out I have the wrong one . The flange on my ffim is for 2jzge and I have no idea how to put a gte one on. Either way I blocked it off. Now two issues left. When I start the car it's automatically at 14.7. But once I move it's at 12.5 .No matter what at idle it's at 12.5. when I start moving it goes up to 14.7 and slowly goes down like it's supposed to. It goes down as boost comes on and stops at 10 flat . Right now I'm only at 10-12 lbs.. That's one issue. I still get cut when I go into boost. If I slowly go up into boost it's fine, runs smooth afr is where it's supposed to be and everything. But if I try to give more throttle it automatically cuts. You could kinda see in the beginning of the video below.
​​​​​​
​​​​​Does my 90mm throttle body have anything to do with it? This week I'mma do boost leak test see if there's any leaks.


https://youtu.be/82JZJBDBKO8

suprasoup

Just did this upgrade and I'm using the is300 coils with 660cc injectors and tuning with safc neo. I also have a 485lph walbro. However I cannot get the car started. I'm getting spark and gas. I'm getting way to much gas. I'll pull my plugs after a few test starts and they will be soaked with gas and black. Do I need to dial more gas out? I tried taking 35% out across the board and I do have it setup on pressure sensor 1in 1out. Am I missing something? I keep flooding the engine and then have to let everything dry before trying again.

Thanks for any help

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

I think people are in the mid 20's correction with the 550's. I am not sure how much the correction will be with the with the 660s but you probably need to experiment.
going with the 550's might be another option depending on what you are looking to make. I don't remember the safc settings but just look up for the one with a pressure sensor.

suprasoup

Bdub215

iTrader: (1)

You basically said what your issue was.


12v mod w/ an overkill walbro 485. You don't need such a big pump. I went from the stock pump to a 255 and my cold start AFR went from 12.6 to 11.6. Get a smaller pump cause that's too much.

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

The size of the pump (being big) even if it was on a 12v mod doesn't really matter. You can even use a huge Weldon -2345a pump as long as the fuel regulator maintains the fuel pressure needed by the injectors. Like, most injectors should have a base fuel pressure of 43.5psi and rising based on boost .

The amount of fuel squirted on the injectors depends on the size of injectors and how much time the injector coils are energized and are left open by the ECU on the assumption that we have the right fuel pressure that is regulated by the Fuel Pressure Regulator.

The ECU energizing the injectors (sending ground signal to the coil/solenoid to make the plunger rise so fuel can flow) depend on different factors though like information sent to the ECU by the different sensors.

99SC42

iTrader: (44)

Thank you GerrB! Thats what alot of people dont know.

The stock ecu were built to run rich...Thats normal.

Now check your Return line, make sure its not pinch or retricted..because if you pinch the return line that will will raise you fuel pressure up.

LEXXIUM

iTrader: (1)

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

What I usually do it take the b+ wire from the stock ignitor, and plug it right into the new ignitor plug as it uses the same type of pin.
Then a few inches back on that b+ wire, I cut back some of the insulation off all around with a loose blade and then wrap another wire around it and solder it, and that wire runs to the 3 coils.

Another option is to run a new switched 12v new power wire for the coils using a relay from like the fusebox or something, but that b+ wire seems to have enough juice for what we are doing.

the old coil is not used as its on the passenger side, and it has c- and b+ wires on that plug.
if you are unwrapping that side of your harness though, you could reuse the c- wire for one of the coils and even the b+ wire as those wires go over the middle of the engine to the passenger side and unrapped would reach into the spark plug area. I didn't unwrap that part of the stock harness till much later on when I went FFIM and was rerouting stuff, but it isn't that much stuff to unwrap if you want to get the b+ wire from there and not splice at the ignitor.

hope that clears some of it up. lots of ways to do it.

LEXXIUM

iTrader: (1)