Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

Good find, yeah it does need to be in park but that is usually how it ends up. different combinations of harnesses and wiring makes it hard to know for sure though I have always done it on manual cars so I never had to deal with that. I do know that setting the "base" timing is very important as you found out.

Yeah if you have the tt headgasket set it at 8 it should run well and be safe without pulling much timing.
You can get away with 10 on the tt headgasket but it may pull some timing and result in the same thing, something for you to experiment with later.

on a stock JDM GE and GTE the iat is in the intake manifold after the throttle body so you should be fine. it can get heatsoaked there and lean out the fuel a little but just keep an eye on the air fuel ratios, the stock ecu is generally fine with it though. if you move it to the intake pipe or right after the intercooler where it can see colder air you might get a hair more fuel out of the stock ecu.

ZOOT3D240

So the past 3 days I've been driving the car to work which is only 10minutes away from my home. Its been in 50s outside at 3oclock when i leave. Car starts up and runs perfect i drive it for about 20min to half hour before work and it doesent skip a beat. As soon as i get out of my shift at 11pm and I start it it just misfires like its missing one cylinder. It's been in the 30s and 40s at night here. I live in Rhode island on the east coast. Like 30min drive and I'd be at sea level. Idk wtf going on. I'm gonna order some new coil wires I guess. Spark plugs are gapped at .25 and there brand new bkr7e

ZOOT3D240

Did the same thing leaving work again.

Reyke

It may have nothing to do with your components, last year my setup would have random misfire issues, I traced it down to coil number 4 would get no signal from the ecu to fire after a lot of checking I found it was the ecu. Sent it out to get the capacitors replaced and never had the issue since.

When you experience the misfiring you need to verify what is going on exactly at that moment, which cylinders and then trace the problem to it's source. Good luck

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

Do you have a wideband and what does it read?
You have some odd problems going on that do not seem related to the actual mod itself but my guess would be the parts you are using.
could be a bad ecu like Reyke said, could be something with the coil wires but that would do it when hot also.

to me it sounds like you have bad injectors that are leaking the fuel into the cylinder and soaking the plugs, and since you don't leave it overnight it does not have time to evaporate or leak down the cylinder walls, like it does when you go to start it in the morning/afternoon.
I would pull the dipstick and smell the gas to see if you have gas in there, and add checking the injectors to the list.
Does it seem to take longer to want to turn over when you go to start it after work? that's probably the fuel pump having to re-pressurize the system/rail.
I remember you saying you had a vacuum leak at the injectors before, did you not change the seals or have them rebuilt?
just dropping used injectors in is a terrible idea, or if they are rebuilt then maybe have them looked over.

I think you said you had mk3 440cc injectors, so if you didn't have new seals I am assuming you did not rebuild them.
Just a heads up, the few sets of mk3 injectors I had rebuilt, every one had at least one injector that was leaking or far off on cc's.
They are at least 26 years old now if they were from a '92.

shajbot

iTrader: (3)

Found them 2JZ injectors with intake air assist on the lower runner (IS300, OBDII SC300's), can be custom order 440cc/min or 550cc/min.

https://www.fiveomotorsport.com/toyo...uz-1mz-2jz-3uz

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

Someone said the IS300 vvti ones won't fit on the obd2 sc300 non vvti intake runners, thought of that a while back but someone tried them and said they are slightly different than the vvti injectors even though both are air assist. Maybe they could work but I am not positive.

187

100% they will not fit properly unless your OBDII sc300 is VVTI, I've personally tried them. No one makes injectors for the OBDII non-VVTI 2jz.

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

I am hoarding a 2000 SC300 vvti engine , a 1997 SC300 non vvti engine and a 1992 SC300 non vvti engine , all on engine stands. Do you want me to test and verify , interchangeability of injectors on their runners ?

ZOOT3D240

so I put new injectors seals on the mk3 injectors. I did not rebuild them. They came off my buddy's car and it wwad running fine he just pulled them to go with bigger injectors. Woke up today and was going to drive it to work. Started the car up and it's misfiring. Runs like 14.7 to 15 closer to 16 at idle during misfire but uner boost goes to full rich 10ish. Idk I'm thinking it has to do with the coil on plug setup somehow. I gapped the plugs to .25 is that way too little should it be closer to .30? Seams to only misfire when the outside temp is cold like 50degrees and humid. Idk I'm gonna swap to my spare ecu tomorro if it misfires. It's weird if it's 80 degrees and the sun's bearing on the car it runs fine just when the temp drips outside. I don't get it. Was gonna just make a ffim and go with 1zz or 2zz coils. It's def ignition related. I'm using 4 weeks old bkr7e

mrmj2u

iTrader: (2)

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

Well 187 said he tried it but if you want to confirm it with maybe a picture then the 2000 vs the 1997 injector wouldn't hurt
Really everyone should use the 92-95 lower runner anyways as its a more standard injector and wont have to plug the air assist.

It's kind of hard to diagnose things when you skip important steps. the tt ecu mod works 100% of the time when you get the right parts and installation.
you could have something off with your air temp sensor when its cold adding too much fuel, its a longshot based on your air fuel ratios but the leaner reading could be due to the misfire and unburnt air.
it could be a wiring issue also mrmj2u said as well. you could have a bad coilpack or coilpacks.

I still think it is almost certainly your injectors based on the fact it does clear up after a bit and you didn't rebuild them.
7m injectors are notorious for this, and really it doesn't matter if your friend was running them or not, you don't actually know if they are good 100%.
misfire after sitting overnight that clears up is a sure sign of a leaky injector, so you shuold eliminate that by getting them tested/fixed.
generally the copper plugs will foul out fast when they get soaked with gas.
if you were running iridiums you might have sneaked past the issue for a while as they are more resistant to fouling.
.025 gap is fine, but you could run .030-.032 with the coilpacks pretty easy and could help a little bit too.

After the car has been sitting overnight, you could crack the banjo nut on the fuel line and see if fuel starts pouring out.
if it doesn't that means the fuel pressure has leaked the fuel in the rail into the engine overnight.
also note the banjo bolt washers are not reusable, there are 2 one above and below the banjo.
do not loose these or skip replacing them as you can easily start a fire when the engine gets hot.
you could also pull the plugs int he morning and crank the motor and see which cylinder shoots fuel all over the hood.

Really you would not want to keep starting the car like this for very long, as the leaky injector would keep doing this, which means every night it washes down that cylinder with fuel and you start it with no lubrication and alot of extra pressure cause all that gas has to get compressed. Basically if there is a bad leaky injector, it will wear that cylinder down fast, and put gas in your oil, which will wear down the rest of the engine fast, and also your turbo.

My recommendation is to do yourself a favor and before buying a FFIM and making the problem more complicated, get proper injectors and get it all working as is.
get the oside tiger injectors or some other reputable high impedance 440cc injectors that are cleaned and flow tested and then you wont need the resistor pack either... or have yours rebuilt at the very least.

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

here you go .....a picture of the 2000 and 1997 sc300 engines .. then the 2000, 1997 and 1992 injectors on the runners . the 1997 will work on the 2000 and vice versa since runners are very similar.

Am experimenting on the four 2jzGE engines I have laying around. One non vvti has 38k miles so I will mate the stock short block with a vvti head that is milled .035" to lower down the squish / quench and be around 9.5:1 compression. That will bring me also to a squish of .055" thus getting me nearer into the ideal squish of .032-060" with a TT head gasket and make better power. I will replace all bolts/studs with ARP and push it to where it will lead me for an NA-T. The other non vvti block I have has around 180k miles. I will build it with aftermarket 10:5:1 pistons and rods with a vvti head too. I will build two vvti NA-T .... no distributors & cop. Since I have 4 GTE VVTi auto trans , I will start with those , push them and see where they fail after doing some work like shimming just like what lawrence (93 twintrbo) did. I will be re reading your thread

I will start boosting the two 1997 SC300 5speed as NA-T and see where they bring me with these engines while I keep aside the engines / trans currently installed in them. Been trying to sell them and all I get are tire kickers. So many want a 5 speed SC but many wouldn't like to pay a reasonable price. They want it free . Been selling one with 115k miles for $7k and still I get offers of $4k . Parting them out will bring me more ....so I will play with them for now, boosting them !

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

Nice collection you have there as usual. I thought you had just the one 97 5spd for sale, maybe when I get a house and place to park more cars I would be interested in one.
I like the vvti na-t plans, should have some kick with those mods and they have some better FFIM's available these days so that should make things cleaner.

are you sure the 97 and 2000 injectors will swap? it almost looks like the lower o-ring is different, but if it does swap then that would be help full for the 96 and 97 folks.
I would think most people would still want to just swap the lower runners, but I am sure they are going to become impossible to find at some point.
Since I started this thread it seems like all the supra 6 speed gte ecu's have disappeared or skyrocketed, should stock piled those... the only one I had I sold with the car lol.

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

I had three 97 5 speed, sold one already so still have two. Remember the one I bought wrecked in front (hitting the rear of a jeep) and I restored ?.... that's the second. Well , I am thinking of just using the stock vvti intake manifold with the threadstone exhaust manifold. A BW S369sxe will fit ... tried it .... close to the strut but it will work. That turbo will make 950rwhp. Lawrence made 833rwhp with his PT-6870 on a treadstone manifold. I believe with a healthy stock pre vvti short block , a vvti head and intake with a turbo on treadstone manifold will allow people to have a good reliable boosted 2jzge up to 750rwhp without spending so much .. that is what I am trying to accomplish. Getting into the right squish helps squeeze every bit of power of course. Jim (jimmymac) made almost 600rwhp and the squish on his engine is I believe .075" since only .010" was milled from the head and yet still made good power .

I was lazy to uninstall the fuel injectors and railing from the 2000 and 1997 to swap and fit them .. just took pictures. I will do that tomorrow just to make sure . You are right , the older intake runners without the air assist would be the best one to use for more injector options at 11mm .