2JZGE Na-T TT Ecu Mod
03-19-18, 10:46 PM
#3541
My guess would be you have a large vacuum leak making the map sensor read high in vacuum and low in boost, or even a bad map sensor.
what vacuum are you pulling at idle? it should be around -18in give or take at sea level
you would see the bad map sensor as a code 30 something... I forget maybe a 31? something like that.
you need a working check engine light for that. check engine light should come on for a second at key on, then go away. it should also blink when you jumper the diagnostic pins.
It could also be some other fuel related issue since you have had issues with that.
also make sure your fuel pressure regulator vacuum line is good. if you tee the map sensor in with that line on the stock spot it should work.
This isn't a hard modification with 440cc injectors, its literally plug and play if you take your time and follow all the steps.
sometimes we also run across bad parts when dealing with used ecu's and map sensors especially, not to mention they short out easily.
On my car I literally did the steps on page 1 with vvti coilpacks, 440's and a walboro and I was boosting 16-18 psi daily with perfect afr's.. didn't even need a piggyback.
what vacuum are you pulling at idle? it should be around -18in give or take at sea level
you would see the bad map sensor as a code 30 something... I forget maybe a 31? something like that.
you need a working check engine light for that. check engine light should come on for a second at key on, then go away. it should also blink when you jumper the diagnostic pins.
It could also be some other fuel related issue since you have had issues with that.
also make sure your fuel pressure regulator vacuum line is good. if you tee the map sensor in with that line on the stock spot it should work.
This isn't a hard modification with 440cc injectors, its literally plug and play if you take your time and follow all the steps.
sometimes we also run across bad parts when dealing with used ecu's and map sensors especially, not to mention they short out easily.
On my car I literally did the steps on page 1 with vvti coilpacks, 440's and a walboro and I was boosting 16-18 psi daily with perfect afr's.. didn't even need a piggyback.
I'm still waiting for someone to make OBDII style injectors (96, 97) in 440cc or 550cc ;(
03-20-18, 09:51 AM
#3542
yeah with the trick to use the stock distributor it is even easier but that whole turbo intake pipe clearance always bugged me with the distributor.
I don't think anyone is ever going to make alot of those injectors if any. I would snag up a obd1 intake before they get even harder to find.
I don't think anyone is ever going to make alot of those injectors if any. I would snag up a obd1 intake before they get even harder to find.
03-20-18, 04:26 PM
#3543
I'd be pretty curious to see a dyno of the distributor vs coils with a basic set-up. Also I don't think anyone is interested in making anything for the OBDII style because the air-assist preventing any kind of normal injectors. I'm guessing as time goes on we will see more people just going over to a obdII vvti head, but don't tell anyone.
03-21-18, 09:54 AM
#3544
My guess would be you have a large vacuum leak making the map sensor read high in vacuum and low in boost, or even a bad map sensor.
what vacuum are you pulling at idle? it should be around -18in give or take at sea level
you would see the bad map sensor as a code 30 something... I forget maybe a 31? something like that.
you need a working check engine light for that. check engine light should come on for a second at key on, then go away. it should also blink when you jumper the diagnostic pins.
It could also be some other fuel related issue since you have had issues with that.
also make sure your fuel pressure regulator vacuum line is good. if you tee the map sensor in with that line on the stock spot it should work.
This isn't a hard modification with 440cc injectors, its literally plug and play if you take your time and follow all the steps.
sometimes we also run across bad parts when dealing with used ecu's and map sensors especially, not to mention they short out easily.
On my car I literally did the steps on page 1 with vvti coilpacks, 440's and a walboro and I was boosting 16-18 psi daily with perfect afr's.. didn't even need a piggyback.
what vacuum are you pulling at idle? it should be around -18in give or take at sea level
you would see the bad map sensor as a code 30 something... I forget maybe a 31? something like that.
you need a working check engine light for that. check engine light should come on for a second at key on, then go away. it should also blink when you jumper the diagnostic pins.
It could also be some other fuel related issue since you have had issues with that.
also make sure your fuel pressure regulator vacuum line is good. if you tee the map sensor in with that line on the stock spot it should work.
This isn't a hard modification with 440cc injectors, its literally plug and play if you take your time and follow all the steps.
sometimes we also run across bad parts when dealing with used ecu's and map sensors especially, not to mention they short out easily.
On my car I literally did the steps on page 1 with vvti coilpacks, 440's and a walboro and I was boosting 16-18 psi daily with perfect afr's.. didn't even need a piggyback.
03-22-18, 05:32 AM
#3546
I don't think you're feeding the wideband into the ECU so having it set to P2 wouldn't affect anything. P0,P2,P3,P4, and P5 all display gasoliine AFR values on the numerical portion of the gauge. What changes is the analog voltage output of the gauge which is typically used when connecting to an aftermarket ECU. P1 would display Lamda values on the numerical portion of the gauge.
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04-04-18, 09:42 AM
#3550
so ive been trying to set base timing but when I jump e1 and te1 and check the timing with my timing light the timing mark looks like its about 15 degrees. if i move dizzy it will go to about 20 25. i was under the impression that once you jump e1 and te1 the ecu is supposed to allow to be set at 10 but the lowest it will set is 15. Is this a tps issue? I swapped the ge throttle body out for a spare off my bros old daily figured that that one one was un tampered with and calibrated. still wont let me set timing to 10 just 15.
04-04-18, 10:11 AM
#3551
so ive been trying to set base timing but when I jump e1 and te1 and check the timing with my timing light the timing mark looks like its about 15 degrees. if i move dizzy it will go to about 20 25. i was under the impression that once you jump e1 and te1 the ecu is supposed to allow to be set at 10 but the lowest it will set is 15. Is this a tps issue? I swapped the ge throttle body out for a spare off my bros old daily figured that that one one was un tampered with and calibrated. still wont let me set timing to 10 just 15.
04-04-18, 10:12 AM
#3552
did you remove the distributor? usually when that happens that means the distributor is off a tooth.
set car to top dead center, remove distributor, align the notches on the distributor gear, then I usually turn it one click back, and then stab it into the head and see if you can adjust it then.
sometimes when you just line it up and insert it, cause of the gears on the cam turn the distributor gear it can get out of alignment as you insert it.
Sometimes it takes a few tries to get it just right, then you will be able to adjust it in the range of the slot on the distributor.
also make sure that you hear the change in timing when you put the jumper in, as in the timing should go down when you put the jumper in.
if your timing without the jumper is at 15, and you don't hear the noise and its still 15 when you put the jumper in, then your tps is in the wrong spot or bad.
generally if its 15-16 before the jumper, with the jumper in it will go down to 10 ish. so verify it is actually going down before you pull the distributor and create another problem.
If you haven't removed the distributor chances are your base timing isn't at 15 and your looking at the actual timing, and tps needs adjustment.
if you have removed the distributor then it could be the tooth issue, or both.
set car to top dead center, remove distributor, align the notches on the distributor gear, then I usually turn it one click back, and then stab it into the head and see if you can adjust it then.
sometimes when you just line it up and insert it, cause of the gears on the cam turn the distributor gear it can get out of alignment as you insert it.
Sometimes it takes a few tries to get it just right, then you will be able to adjust it in the range of the slot on the distributor.
also make sure that you hear the change in timing when you put the jumper in, as in the timing should go down when you put the jumper in.
if your timing without the jumper is at 15, and you don't hear the noise and its still 15 when you put the jumper in, then your tps is in the wrong spot or bad.
generally if its 15-16 before the jumper, with the jumper in it will go down to 10 ish. so verify it is actually going down before you pull the distributor and create another problem.
If you haven't removed the distributor chances are your base timing isn't at 15 and your looking at the actual timing, and tps needs adjustment.
if you have removed the distributor then it could be the tooth issue, or both.
04-04-18, 10:25 AM
#3553
hey thanks for the quick reply you guys are awesome. so i did remove when i initially swapped over to tt ecu in december. i took it out cuz i thought dizzy was bad cauing ecu not to start but turns out i was worng and it was another issue. fast forward to now and obv i set it to top dead center everytime i take dizzy out and put it back in. last we3ek i took it out and put it back in and got the same result every time. ill try inserting it with one tooth back tonight and report back. as of right now no noticeabe chnage in timing when jumper is installed. pretty sure i tried jumping it directly at ecu to which im gonna give another shot later
did you remove the distributor? usually when that happens that means the distributor is off a tooth.
set car to top dead center, remove distributor, align the notches on the distributor gear, then I usually turn it one click back, and then stab it into the head and see if you can adjust it then.
sometimes when you just line it up and insert it, cause of the gears on the cam turn the distributor gear it can get out of alignment as you insert it.
Sometimes it takes a few tries to get it just right, then you will be able to adjust it in the range of the slot on the distributor.
also make sure that you hear the change in timing when you put the jumper in, as in the timing should go down when you put the jumper in.
if your timing without the jumper is at 15, and you don't hear the noise and its still 15 when you put the jumper in, then your tps is in the wrong spot or bad.
generally if its 15-16 before the jumper, with the jumper in it will go down to 10 ish. so verify it is actually going down before you pull the distributor and create another problem.
If you haven't removed the distributor chances are your base timing isn't at 15 and your looking at the actual timing, and tps needs adjustment.
if you have removed the distributor then it could be the tooth issue, or both.
set car to top dead center, remove distributor, align the notches on the distributor gear, then I usually turn it one click back, and then stab it into the head and see if you can adjust it then.
sometimes when you just line it up and insert it, cause of the gears on the cam turn the distributor gear it can get out of alignment as you insert it.
Sometimes it takes a few tries to get it just right, then you will be able to adjust it in the range of the slot on the distributor.
also make sure that you hear the change in timing when you put the jumper in, as in the timing should go down when you put the jumper in.
if your timing without the jumper is at 15, and you don't hear the noise and its still 15 when you put the jumper in, then your tps is in the wrong spot or bad.
generally if its 15-16 before the jumper, with the jumper in it will go down to 10 ish. so verify it is actually going down before you pull the distributor and create another problem.
If you haven't removed the distributor chances are your base timing isn't at 15 and your looking at the actual timing, and tps needs adjustment.
if you have removed the distributor then it could be the tooth issue, or both.
04-04-18, 04:25 PM
#3554
Sounds like your jumper is not working or the tps is bad or out of position. could even be both.
Solve that problem before going forward, if your looking at actual timing then your base timing is probably going to be in the right range without reinstalling the distributor.
let the car warm up some so it starts to put in advance, then confirm that the timing drops when you put the jumper in.
put the timing light on the crank before the jumper, see what its at. then do your jumper and then see if it changed.
if it didn't change then don't even bother with removing the distributor.
if you set the actual timing to 10, instead of the base timing to 10... it will drive like carp cause you will have a very low base timing.
don't skip steps or you will never get it running right.
Solve that problem before going forward, if your looking at actual timing then your base timing is probably going to be in the right range without reinstalling the distributor.
let the car warm up some so it starts to put in advance, then confirm that the timing drops when you put the jumper in.
put the timing light on the crank before the jumper, see what its at. then do your jumper and then see if it changed.
if it didn't change then don't even bother with removing the distributor.
if you set the actual timing to 10, instead of the base timing to 10... it will drive like carp cause you will have a very low base timing.
don't skip steps or you will never get it running right.
04-19-18, 10:32 AM
#3555
So I finally got the engine to run correctly. This things fkn fast. So I figured out the timing issue. it was simple I just forgot to trick the auto ecu back into "PARK" instead of DRIVE". In park is where you set the base timing duhhhhh. my timing was set to 0 now I set it to 8. im on tt headgasket. 8 soundright? then took it out for a drive still misfiring. pulled all plugs found cylinder 5 was clean like never even fired. changed out coil and wire and it fixed the issue. this mother f**** pulls hard now. holy ****** ill post a vid soon. nowi just need to upgrade my turbo and downpipe cuz I just slapped a junkyard BorgWarner on and its got a hacked dowpipe. now im pumped Ill do it right. once again thanks for the help everyone.
one more question. I have my iat sensor installed into the plenum after TB. is it supposed to be in the instake before the TB or after. will is hurt anything there?
one more question. I have my iat sensor installed into the plenum after TB. is it supposed to be in the instake before the TB or after. will is hurt anything there?