ZOOT3D240

Drumroll please, So i figured it out. reinstalled 440s with lube on the gromet for the fuel rail. i had a ripped injector oring. also i had a bumch of vacume leaks. car runs great havent hit rev limitor yet but will try tomorro. scu seams to be learning. going to try to set base timing to 10 again with te1 and e1. 30 days till drift season starts

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

That is good news, always lube the injector grommets and using new ones is a good idea.
map sensor based ecu's will be sensitive to even a small vacuum or intake leak, so be sure to take your time and get all those sorted or the air fuel ratios will never be consistent.

HighPsiS13

ALi....whats your take on switching to a GTE map sensor on my JDM (map based) GE? Can I use that and the 440's and just worry about fuel trim with a safc or mapecu?

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

At that point all you need to do to run a gte ecu is just swap out the stock ignitor for the ds62, add some extra wires by the ecu and you can run the gte ecu.
If you have the extra ecu pins that is maybe like an hours more worth of work. I would do that and run the gte ecu.

You can try it like you said, but the ecu can freak out in part boost situations. some people can ignore it as long as it works on wide open throttle or spend a bunch of time tuning around it with a map ecu or emanage (a safc will not be able to tune around it with a simple trim).
There is a moderator on supraforums from australia who had the JDM GE ecu setup with a turbo and was running an emanage that he had tuned alot and claimed it worked well.
Eventually he tried the tt ecu mod and at first wasn't too sure but then he said it did seem as good or better.
He had a lot of time into that setup though I would imagine tuning it all the time on the track just to get it to do what a gte ecu does normally.

honestly, the amount of time you will spend messing with the safc or map ecu just to get it to run decent (emphasis on decent, not great), is not worth the trouble anymore.
Just get a JDM GTE ecu, put the extra 5 pins in by the ecu and tie them into the factory ignition wire going to the ignitor, swap out the ignitor for a ds62, add a ground wire to the ds62, swap the map sensor, 440's and everything will work amazing with no tuning needed.

You will have safer timing and also part throttle will be dialed in better automatically. The car will run like it came like that, without having to install a safc or anything.
If you can avoid messing with a safc or map ecu etc... it will be that much easier.

I ran a map ecu, and while its a handy tool, its a pain to setup and get it to run right even on a gte ecu. had to play with it a bunch to get it to act right so you have to have alot of patience or a good tuner who is familiar with it. these days most tuners wont even touch anything short of a standalone.
if you have a gte ecu though, you can use a safc as a simple trim for larger injectors and its much less complicated for lets say running 550cc which is common, and very DIY friendly.

mrmj2u

iTrader: (2)

Ali,

I just purchased an AEM v1 plug and play for the MKIV. Was wondering if I need to modify my harness again (Currently successfully running the GTE Mod) to get it to work.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

what coil setup do you have again? generally you can run a v1 without wiring changes since is wasted spark. you have to have the right ignition setup in the aem cal file though like for stock coil or vvti coils

mrmj2u

iTrader: (2)

I'm running VVTI coils with the DS62 igniter.
Also running MAP and IAT sensors.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

ecu wiring is same as tt ecu mod for aem v1 w/vvti coils.
if you are going to run the aem map sensor, then you need to change the connector. IAT is fine to leave the same.

make sure the settings are updated on the v1 to run the vvti coils.

at the end of the first post in this thread, there are v1 settings for vvti coils.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...coilpacks.html
there are also some changes shown for the 7m cps, if you are running the stock distributor then don't make those changes (basically the crank and cam sens above and below values).

also read through this thread make sure to fix the base map for vvti coils and aem v1. the settings are the same as above but just to emphasize you must change the ignition sync values to the right ones or the motor will tear itself apart sooner or later.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...-settings.html

mrmj2u

iTrader: (2)

Thanks so much!

ZOOT3D240

so i took my car out for a test drive. seems to be running lean. at idle it my uego aem wideband will sit at 11.50 12ish. if rev up the engine 500rpms it strarts to lean out and. i did like 3 quick pulls and it jumps up to the 13 14 15 THEN LIKE 18. Let go of the gas and it jumps back down to like 14 then 12. then idles back at 12.

walboro 255 wired 12v to switch
new fuel lines front to back
440cc mk3 injectors and resistor pack
tt ecu aristo

mrmj2u

iTrader: (2)

ZOOT3D240

yes i am running a 51trim borg warner

HighPsiS13

Has anyone else tried WRX fuel injectors? They seem to eyeball approx. the same size as the oem using the oem lower grommet.

Has there been any success with these? They are 440cc high imp and the plug is the same as ours 'oval.'

mrmj2u

iTrader: (2)

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

My guess would be you have a large vacuum leak making the map sensor read high in vacuum and low in boost, or even a bad map sensor.
what vacuum are you pulling at idle? it should be around -18in give or take at sea level
you would see the bad map sensor as a code 30 something... I forget maybe a 31? something like that.
you need a working check engine light for that. check engine light should come on for a second at key on, then go away. it should also blink when you jumper the diagnostic pins.
It could also be some other fuel related issue since you have had issues with that.
also make sure your fuel pressure regulator vacuum line is good. if you tee the map sensor in with that line on the stock spot it should work.

This isn't a hard modification with 440cc injectors, its literally plug and play if you take your time and follow all the steps.
sometimes we also run across bad parts when dealing with used ecu's and map sensors especially, not to mention they short out easily.

On my car I literally did the steps on page 1 with vvti coilpacks, 440's and a walboro and I was boosting 16-18 psi daily with perfect afr's.. didn't even need a piggyback.